Il Grifone Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 The whole thing just looks weird. The only bit I could probably use out of this new issue is the smokebox / boiler / firebox to help correct the Airfix one, but I don't fancy trying to saw them off the rest of the moulding. Think I'll pass on this one - the Black 5 is already enough of a handful. The Kitmaster outside frames are incorrect, since they have an extended section forward of the steps (in front of the driving axle). The footplate was also extended to correspond with this, and this is also incorrect. The curve up to the section covering the driving wheels is thus about 4mm further forward than it needs to be. It looks as if the error originated in an outline drawing that appeared in Russell's book on GW Engines, Volume 2, decades ago. There are at least two "City" drawings in that book, and only the second one is correct in respect of the outside frames. I'll make it fit somehow! It'll probably be easier than sawing the top off a firebox. The tender doesn't look bad at all, though I haven't put the vernier over it yet. Certainly better than the Kitmaster or Tri-ang ones. I had collected various white metal kit built tenders (the weight would be useful for the tender drive unit to replace the lead I cast to fit all those years ago for my first attempt at motorising one in the mid sixties). The EM version incorporated the tender and a new kit for the locomotive. The Kitmaster kit predates Russell's volumes by at least a decade, so the error can't be blamed on these. (Could possibly be the same drawings of course.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 When I was 9 or 10 I made my first Kitmaster CofT. This would have been about 1959. It wasn't motorised (pocket money wouldn't run to that) but I wanted to weight it a bit. When my mother was out I melted some lead in a tin lid (really) on the gas stove. And poured it into the tender... Fortunately the cooled lead came off the enamelled cooker pretty easily and I wasn't holding it underneath. Mother never knew. See what I mean about chimping? I've been at it for years... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium PhilJ W Posted June 12, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 12, 2014 When I was 9 or 10 I made my first Kitmaster CofT. This would have been about 1959. It wasn't motorised (pocket money wouldn't run to that) but I wanted to weight it a bit. When my mother was out I melted some lead in a tin lid (really) on the gas stove. And poured it into the tender... Fortunately the cooled lead came off the enamelled cooker pretty easily and I wasn't holding it underneath. Mother never knew. See what I mean about chimping? I've been at it for years... But what shape was the tender in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smiffy2 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 A bit blobby. Big hole in the top... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted June 12, 2014 Share Posted June 12, 2014 Went to Home Bargains, picked up a pack of four LED "flickering candles" for 99p. Did you ask for "Four Candles"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted June 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 12, 2014 I subscribed in March. Had four payments go out and one model recieved, the schools. They're getting another phone call tomorrow! Cheers Shane Uh oh.. has anyone else had this problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) When I was 9 or 10 I made my first Kitmaster CofT. This would have been about 1959. It wasn't motorised (pocket money wouldn't run to that) but I wanted to weight it a bit. When my mother was out I melted some lead in a tin lid (really) on the gas stove. And poured it into the tender... Fortunately the cooled lead came off the enamelled cooker pretty easily and I wasn't holding it underneath. Mother never knew. See what I mean about chimping? I've been at it for years... I remember the method of doing this with soldered models involved a water jacket I doubt if it would be sufficient for plastic. An early motorisation attempt involved melting a motor bracket into the tender sides. It was not a success and one reason why I used a Tri-ang tender later - another was Kitmaster's (by then made by Airfix) neat moulded lining which I could never remove properly! I melted my lead on the cooker in something similar , but did use a plaster (IIRC) mould. I repaired a Mk II Consul petrol pump in the family Aga once (It was leaking aroung the screw in pipe entry gland - stripped thread) - proper Araldite cured that! and it outlasted the car. Edited June 13, 2014 by Il Grifone 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 (edited) I almost passed out in disbelief just now when WHS Ealing displayed the grand total of - get this - ONE "City of Truro". However, I can report that they are now back to their usual total of zero. It was probably a mirage. Edited June 13, 2014 by Horsetan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium TheQ Posted June 13, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2014 I almost passed out in disbelief just now when WHS Ealing displayed the grand total of - get this - ONE "City of Truro".However, I can report that they are now back to their usual total of zero.It was probably a mirage. sadly whs at Great Yarmouth had zero C of T , so I will have to wait for the subscription copy to see if I need more.The Q Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted June 13, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2014 I found one in Asda today. I already have a perfectly good model of CoT, so this one is now in bits. What this topic needs is more pictures, particularly of CoT. Here goes. Detail in the tender front and cab. The front buffers are separate parts. Separate details in the cab include the fireman's seat folded up and the fall plate, in a vertical position (it doesn't fold down). Underside of loco and tender. Top of tender. The tender in bits. The bogie in bits. This is what's left. That's quite a lot of bits for such a cheap model, about the same as the plastic kit. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 The fall plate is not that well glued on it can be gently pulled off and then glued back on in the down position Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 The coupling rods can be pulled out of the cranks but whether removal of the cranks is feasible I don't know. Probably some tricky filing is involved. Luckily the awful and incorrectly placed lamp on the rear of the tender is only glued on and comes away with care. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted June 13, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 13, 2014 The cranks are less than a mm thick. They could be filed/cut/carved away without too much difficulty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Here are some photos first of all another black 5 this time with snowplough fitted it was a Hornby spare. Then city of truro. The extra smokebox iron has been removed, the mailbox and chimney repainted, handrails and cab interior painted. The tender has had coal added, and the wheels replaced with wheels from the Dapol kit. This gets rid of that horrible metal eyesore under the tender. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingfisher24 Posted June 13, 2014 Share Posted June 13, 2014 Here are some photos first of all another black 5 this time with snowplough fitted it was a Hornby spare. Then city of truro. The extra smokebox iron has been removed, the mailbox and chimney repainted, handrails and cab interior painted. The tender has had coal added, and the wheels replaced with wheels from the Dapol kit. This gets rid of that horrible metal eyesore under the tender. I especially like the 5mt with the snow plough fitted i am currently working on a couple of these locos - i am workin on fitting Hornby chassis to the bodies and adding handrails etc. i have one spare chassis which granted is not a long wheelbase version but will do for me and, as for the other i have enough bits to do the body but the chassis will have to wait. Keep the conversions etc coming rmwebbers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
irishmail Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) RE: Horsetan's post 1210 I remember K and S models very well, quite often popped into them as they were my nearest model shop about 20 mins drive away before I moved. Edited June 14, 2014 by midland flyer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruffnut Thorston Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Here are some photos first of all another black 5 this time with snowplough fitted it was a Hornby spare. Then city of truro. The extra smokebox iron has been removed, the mailbox and chimney repainted, handrails and cab interior painted. The tender has had coal added, and the wheels replaced with wheels from the Dapol kit. This gets rid of that horrible metal eyesore under the tender. The "mailbox" ? I know CoT was used on the Ocean Mails Express........... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 (edited) The tender has had coal added, and the wheels replaced with wheels from the Dapol kit. This gets rid of that horrible metal eyesore under the tender.Heres my version using the models wheel castings, the front and middle ones held in place using cut down bolts and bushes from the display track fixings for the model - you need to use fully threaded bolts, one of the three with mine was only partially threaded Edited June 14, 2014 by Butler Henderson 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 After reading through some comments elsewhere on rmweb regarding mazak rot, is this something GBL locos will suffer from? Not sure what materials have been used for chassis. I would be rather upset if one of my GBL locos that I redecorated suffered from mazak rot .... This hardly matters if you're aiming to turn the static model into a runner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Heres my version using the models wheel castings, the front and middle ones held in place using cut down bolts and bushes from the display track fixings for the model - you need to use fully threaded bolts, one of the three with mine was only partially threaded20140614_120223-1.jpg20140614_120155-1.jpg Nicely done, what did you use to cut through the metal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darrel Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 The "mailbox" ? I know CoT was used on the Ocean Mails Express........... That's predictive text for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 After reading through some comments elsewhere on rmweb regarding mazak rot, is this something GBL locos will suffer from? Not sure what materials have been used for chassis. I would be rather upset if one of my GBL locos that I redecorated suffered from mazak rot but what about those who have done some highly skillful work on theirs? We've seen some examples of shoddy assembly of the locos which may suggest a "it will do" attitude (I know they are cheap compared to a RTR one and even Dapol kits). What little I know about mazak is that impurities causes the rot or whatever and I would not imagine that the factory will be checking each chassis for impurities going by some that I have and pictures seen of others. It's not impossible, but only time will tell, unless someone wants to do a chemical analysis and that would only apply to the sample tested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Butler Henderson Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 Nicely done, what did you use to cut through the metal? A razor saw, the metal is pretty soft and having cut it slightly it can be split at the cut using a pier of pliers, and then filed if neccessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 14, 2014 Share Posted June 14, 2014 .... city of truro. The extra smokebox iron has been removed, the..... chimney repainted, handrails and cab interior painted. ... Looks better without that bizarre third handle on the door. I know now what was bugging me about the boiler, and your broadside photo confirms it - the taper isn't steep enough on second and third ring of the barrel. But if I saw it out and graft in the Airfix barrel (which is correct), I think we might have a solution....hmmm.... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf27 Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 I'm not certain for definite but the Airfix boiler barrel may be about 1mm smaller in diameter than the GBL boiler. I was looking at replacing the smokebox door and did a quick measure, the Airfix one was smaller. cheers Shane Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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