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Pencarrow: nothing to see, move along please.


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Are the chairs on the sprue 'handed' ?

OG told me that the keys are fitted alternate ways to stop creep of the rail.

This is for rail used both ways - for single direction the keys are added against the flow.

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Are the chairs on the sprue 'handed' ?

OG told me that the keys are fitted alternate ways to stop creep of the rail.

This is for rail used both ways - for single direction the keys are added against the flow.

 

On the C & L (3 bolt chairs) that I use, the chairs are 'handed'; mixed on each sprue......`makes for a little more work to sort them.

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Are the chairs on the sprue 'handed' ?

OG told me that the keys are fitted alternate ways to stop creep of the rail.

This is for rail used both ways - for single direction the keys are added against the flow.

Yes, as Debs says, they are handed - 5 of each type on a sprue. If you look at the photos of the points I'm building you'll see that there are L and R written next to each sleeper to remind me which hand to use.

 

Mind you, looking at photos of trackwork on the Bodmin single lines, it seems that the keys were a bit more random and certainly not a rigid L R L R.

 

I'm guessing that actual track behaviour dictated which side the key went in... If it fell out of one side the ganger put it in the opposite.

 

Eric, do you have any insights to this?

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I find a curved blade is best for removing chairs from sprues.

The kit I brought with me was limited to a cutting mat and a scalpel - by default I used the blade it had. Mind you, if my maths is about right, I've got another 1000 to do at some point and so I'll give the curved blade a go.

 

Defo a task to do whilst watching TV and with a beer (without straws) to hand. I also managed to get through several cups of strong black tea. It is Lent after all.

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On the C & L (3 bolt chairs) that I use, the chairs are 'handed'; mixed on each sprue......`makes for a little more work to sort them.

I did toy with the idea of doing all the L ones first and putting them in a different bag to the Rs. Sort of spoils the fun though!

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I find a curved blade is best for removing chairs from sprues.

Thanks must go to the hotel for choosing a carpet colour almost identical to C&L chairs. There's still 2 somewhere on the floor!

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I did toy with the idea of doing all the L ones first and putting them in a different bag to the Rs. Sort of spoils the fun though!

I used an old microwaveable ready meal box with the 2 compartments marked "L" and "R": still got them mixed up, though!!!

 

Rod

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I used an old microwaveable ready meal box with the 2 compartments marked "L" and "R": still got them mixed up, though!!!

 

Rod

I find putting L and R on the back of my hands helps!

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Thanks must go to the hotel for choosing a carpet colour almost identical to C&L chairs. There's still 2 somewhere on the floor!

I once found a duster in my hotel bed..... Imagine a c&l chair between your toes.

 

One for the hotel inspector

 

A

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Hey young spams.Get a move on with this trackwork as I have something very nice for you to give it a test run with. :jester:

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/69664-a-nod-to-brent/page-122&do=findComment&comment=1374082

 

post 3047.

Hey, I've enough track done to roll that GWR fatty / bloater wagon a few inches.

 

You'll be very welcome to bring it a long to a running session....once I've, built the board, built and laid the track, wired up and have a loco of some sort. 

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Thoughts are turning, at last, to making a start on the boards.

 

I think that I'm going to follow the method used by Chaz on his Dock Green layout. 

 

Here's his un-glued mock-up: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/58132-dock-green/?p=1368559

 

His boards up and constructed: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/58132-dock-green/?p=1367534 (Note the circular recesses in the outer skin to rebate and protect electrical sockets)

 

All very neat and tidy - it appeals to the civil engineer in me!

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Hey, I've enough track done to roll that GWR fatty / bloater wagon a few inches.

 

You'll be very welcome to bring it a long to a running session....once I've, built the board, built and laid the track, wired up and have a loco of some sort. 

 

You'll need some Western motive power to pull it too. ;)

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There are some general rules on keying , where breaking was common keys would be arranged so that the breaking action would tighten the keys, similarly on a slope the keys were on the up side. However if the ganagers found keys were working loose too quickly they could try them from the other side. It was down to the local PW gang who had a vested interest in the not working loose too quickly. So I wouldn't get too upset if someone says you have them in wrong. I do usually try to have the opposite hands on any one sleeper so the keys is from the same direction.

Don

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Chris,

 

I have Microsoft Visio on my PC, which is a drawings package, so I could take Mike's / your signalling drawing and produce something close to what one would see in a real signal box for you.  I have already have the symbols for signals, discs, points and traps pre-drawn, so it would not be too much work. (Your are correct, I've done this before!)

 

You could either use it on your control panel or even frame it and hang on the wall of the railway room like a real signal box digram!  Now if Mike fancies having a stab at a locking table  :whistle: I could make it look even more BR(S)!!

 

Just one query to our expert Mike though; as this is a BR(S) layout, I am wondering if 10 push would be a yellow disc?

 

Thanks to Paul I've now got the plan below to stock inside the signal box (when I've built it) and to hang on the wall...

 

post-6675-0-03853500-1394393842_thumb.jpg

 

Cheers to Mike and Paul for all their assistance.

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