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57xx's Workbench - more wagons and a Siphon C


57xx
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  • RMweb Gold
7 hours ago, 57xx said:

….I did manage to partially damage one of the brakes on the inside when fitting the wire…


Did I forget to drill out the holes? I usually drill them out before curing but if I did forget I apologise

 

7 hours ago, 57xx said:

The finish of the print is fantastic.


Thank you, glad that you like it 

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16 hours ago, MrWolf said:

Very nice job there and it's great to hear from a third party how they've found the model enjoyable and easy to build.

 

I can recommend the transfers from Railtec, they went on very well. 

Only the panels with transfers have received matt varnish so far, which is why they look a little lighter in colour. The roof is just placed on in this photo.

 

IMG_20230818_232409.jpg.cde83dc1b8c7f439e4c1c89f0dd05817.jpg


I second that, the transfers from @railtec-models go on a treat…

 

IMG_9341.jpeg.7011f477d8065ef412ce40ead40b7724.jpeg

 

…and include the different running numbers and destinations

 

I spray the entire model with gloss varnish before applying the transfers and apply a couple of coats of mat varnish over the top

 

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1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

Did I forget to drill out the holes? I usually drill them out before curing but if I did forget I apologise

 

No, you didn't forget, Chris. I just cut the wire a smidge too long. The wire for the brakes at the  other end went in smooth as.

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  • RMweb Gold

While I had the airbrush out last month to do the CC7, I also took the opportunity to do another kit that's been waiting in the paint queue.

 This is a Cambrian kits LMS D1676 vent van in 1935 livery.

 

D1676.jpg

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Happt Boxng Day. I hope everyone is enjoying the festive period. A big thanks to my small band of followers. I'm thinking i need to make a new year resolution to post more regularly, looking back i keep seeing big gaps between posts and thinking of stock i gave forhotten to post about. Onwards and upwards.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

So to get the ball rolling, here's yet another one I started over Christmas whilst down visiting family. It's the Parkside Fruit D that I think I picked up in a job lot off someone from RMWeb. Built in 1939, the prototype just scrapes in to my Mid to Late 1930s era and so will probably be fairly pristine when finished, with just a light bit of weathering. Here is the state of play so far:

 

FruitD-1.jpg.74bcfb8ca3a16a5a9a7695f03e5d7647.jpg

 

I'm keeping the kit supplied buffers as my usual LMS ones don't (I think) have a set with the built up base to the self-contained buffers. They needed a bit of filling due to some dips in the moulding, as did the gas cylinder. The supplied shell vents were just round blobs with no trace of the shell so these were replaced with ones from Comet Models that have been in the parts box for years, finally a use for them! 

 

Then there is the cock up on the underframe... There is an X and a Y side, X being nearest to the camera and where the vac cylinder sits (on the rib to the left side of the centre door). The instructions say to remove the vac cylinder mounting lug from the Y side,  so rather than being patient and waiting until I had assembled the underframe, I cut it off one of the solebars on the sprues. By the time I had fitted the microstrip to space out the solebars so they didn't splay with the wheels in, I had forgotten about the fact that one of them didn't have said vac cylinder lug. Sods Law then kicked in and I fixed the solebars on the opposite sides to which they were supposed to be on. 😖 I'll have to carefully part the other one off and glue it to the side of the cylinder.

 

Other than that, so far so good. The side and end mouldings are very crisp and the corners go together very nicely. Trying to decide on how much weight it needs, I suspect an 18' wheelbase will need a fair bit more weight than my normal 30g for 9/10ft wagons. Maybe somewhere in the region of 50-60g?

Edited by 57xx
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I glued the buffer heads on to the Y11, took one look and thought, that looks so wrong! So I then dug out some Lanarkshire Models buffers from my stash (1' 8.5" self-contained) and made a very quick decision that the kit buffers will have to come off. I can trim them back to the packing plate and stick the LMS one onto them.

 

FruitD-2.jpg.8311e5715cbdfd7c740dd9d595b57e69.jpg

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The Dapol one is not that bad when you compare it with the Wrenn Fruit D that I have.

 

Looking in Atkins et al, I think the 1' 8.5" buffers are the wrong ones to use. The drawing shows overall length of 1' 8.5" for the buffers, so I'm thinking I should actually be using the 1' 6" SC buffers with the packing to get the correct overall length.

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On 10/01/2024 at 23:51, 57xx said:

So to get the ball rolling, here's yet another one I started over Christmas whilst down visiting family. It's the Parkside Fruit D that I think I picked up in a job lot off someone from RMWeb. Built in 1939, the prototype just scrapes in to my Mid to Late 1930s era and so will probably be fairly pristine when finished, with just a light bit of weathering. Here is the state of play so far:

 

FruitD-1.jpg.74bcfb8ca3a16a5a9a7695f03e5d7647.jpg

 

I'm keeping the kit supplied buffers as my usual LMS ones don't (I think) have a set with the built up base to the self-contained buffers. They needed a bit of filling due to some dips in the moulding, as did the gas cylinder. The supplied shell vents were just round blobs with no trace of the shell so these were replaced with ones from Comet Models that have been in the parts box for years, finally a use for them! 

 

Then there is the cock up on the underframe... There is an X and a Y side, X being nearest to the camera and where the vac cylinder sits (on the rib to the left side of the centre door). The instructions say to remove the vac cylinder mounting lug from the Y side,  so rather than being patient and waiting until I had assembled the underframe, I cut it off one of the solebars on the sprues. By the time I had fitted the microstrip to space out the solebars so they didn't splay with the wheels in, I had forgotten about the fact that one of them didn't have said vac cylinder lug. Sods Law then kicked in and I fixed the solebars on the opposite sides to which they were supposed to be on. 😖 I'll have to carefully part the other one off and glue it to the side of the cylinder.

 

Other than that, so far so good. The side and end mouldings are very crisp and the corners go together very nicely. Trying to decide on how much weight it needs, I suspect an 18' wheelbase will need a fair bit more weight than my normal 30g for 9/10ft wagons. Maybe somewhere in the region of 50-60g?

 

It looks good, despite the challenges. I still haven't tried a Parkside kit, must have a go some day. The parts looks nice and crisp.

 

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  • RMweb Gold
On 17/01/2024 at 08:26, Mikkel said:

 

It looks good, despite the challenges. I still haven't tried a Parkside kit, must have a go some day. The parts looks nice and crisp.

 

 

If you do go for one Mikkel, pick one of the later kits. Some of the earlier ones are not as crisp and underframes not very well detailed. Overall though, I'd probably put them at #1 spot above Cambrian and Coopercraft.

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An update on the CC7 - I ordered decals from Railtec for the CC7 and went ahead to tart it up. It was only then I spotted they just supply the 25" lettering on the sheet which is too early for me. Luckily several other sheets had dropped in my basket whilst ordering the CC7 decals so I had some spare 16" G W letters to apply. The end result is below.

 

ChuffinCC7-5.jpg

 

The roof has had a first wash of dirt and some woodwork showing through on the steps. The body now needs some weathering too.

 

Just noticed the brake handles are still missing. I hope I can find them!!

Edited by 57xx
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55 minutes ago, 57xx said:

It was only then I spotted they just supply the 25" lettering on the sheet which is too early for me
 

Just noticed the brake handles are still missing. I hope I can find them!!

 

 

My fault! the 25” GW that was at my request when originally discussing it with @railtec-models based on the information I had to hand

 

IMG_8945.jpeg.e66118db825518c3130690aff8e76985.jpeg

 

I hadn’t considered later time periods, apologies for that

 

As for the brake handles I will happily print some more and send them to you if you like?

 

 

Edited by chuffinghell
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3 hours ago, chuffinghell said:

 

 

My fault! the 25” GW that was at my request when originally discussing it with @railtec-models based on the information I had to hand

 

IMG_8945.jpeg.e66118db825518c3130690aff8e76985.jpeg

 

I hadn’t considered later time periods, apologies for that

 

As for the brake handles I will happily print some more and send them to you if you like?

 

 

 

It's not your fault at all, Chris. If anyone's, it would be mine for not checking on ordering, caveat emptor and all that. I'd still have ordered them anyway for all the branding and numbers. As I'd already got some additional 16" lettering in the order too, it wasn't an issue. 🙂

 

Thanks for the brake handle offer. I know I put them somewhere safe... Famous last words. I'll be in touch if they don't turn up.

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4 hours ago, 57xx said:

Thanks for the brake handle offer. I know I put them somewhere safe... Famous last words. I'll be in touch if they don't turn up.


No problem, happy to help

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9 hours ago, Miss Prism said:

They always look like prison vans, don't they?

 

I wonder if I should get Railtech to do a G4S livery for one?

 

1 hour ago, chuffinghell said:

No problem, happy to help

 

Found them where I left them, in the little baggie on the workbench (along with a couple of other empty bags, so nearly missed them). They are now safely stuck on the CC7.

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More progress on the Fruit D. The buffers are looking a whole heap better thanks to Lanarkshire Models.

FruitD-3.jpg.adb7f7a0eeeb321d5b910216661dbd8e.jpg

 

Work then moved on to the brake gear. The levers, V hangers and brake rods were all drilled out to take 0.7mm brass wire and then the whole lot threaded together. I then realised there is no vac cylinder lever, so knocked one up quickly from scrap brass. 

 

FruitD-4.jpg.cf048ba280ea3185f6a17c7d512b993c.jpg

 

Upon looking at the drawings in the kit and then in Atkins et al, I also realised there is also rodding missing between the two cross shafts at each end of the brake gear. As it is, a lever will only apply the 2 brake shoes at the relevant end. I'm torn between trying to find more suitable brass strip or file it under CBA.

 

Edited by 57xx
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Adding the rodding and buffers has certainly taken the kit to the next level, I think that I will be doing the same with my next build. The printed wagons I have all received the necessary rods, having the holes built into the design.

 

If you can get in at a shallow angle, could you drill a small dimple behind each brake shoe pivot and spring in a suitable length of wire secured with a little super glue?

 

If indeed, you can be ar..... 😄 

 

 

 

Edited by MrWolf
Stupid autocorrect
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On 02/02/2024 at 22:03, 57xx said:

 

I wonder if I should get Railtech to do a G4S livery for one?

 

 

If you like I could look at modifying the drawing to have bars instead of windows and doors?
 

On 02/02/2024 at 22:03, 57xx said:

Found them where I left them, in the little baggie on the workbench (along with a couple of other empty bags, so nearly missed them). They are now safely stuck on the CC7.


Glad they turned up, I’m wondering in future if I should tape them to a piece of card?

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4 hours ago, chuffinghell said:


I’m wondering if I should (or could) do some sort of gallery of all the CC2’s and CC7’s that have been done?

 

That would encourage me to finish weathering my CC7! 

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On 04/02/2024 at 08:39, MrWolf said:

If you can get in at a shallow angle, could you drill a small dimple behind each brake shoe pivot and spring in a suitable length of wire secured with a little super glue?

 

I've had a look at as many underframe pics as I can and can't see any signs of a cross shaft between the brake shoes, but I've not seen anything clear and definitive. For now I will leave them, but I have found a nice bit of scrap etch for the link between the main cross shafts and in my box of Mainly Trains etches there's a sheet of brakes spares that has some small levers that can be adapted to attached the link rod to the cross shafts.

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