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"Anything You Can do, I Can Do Better ! Robinson and Downes.


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Allan

If you use brick paper, is it the sticky back type? Because I tried that left it in the loft for a couple of months, then it suddenly started lifting off in all directions. It was like the paper had had a serious argument with the plastic frame and was buxxering off to pastures new! Ever since I have decided to use plastic sheet brick which involves a lot more painting, undercoat for groat, then top coats by hand with a drier brush to not mess the air sprayed 'grouting', although I am thinking maskol could speed this up.  I am assuming that you get a reasonable colour match paper then airbrush the result with layers of black/brown/ sometimes green to give that beautiful aged patina. The water tower is really gorgeous by the way, so of course are the others, I suppose it's the photo angle I like  so much

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Here's a few shots of terraced houses and shops scratchbuilt using standard 4mm brick papers.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Cheers.

Allan.

 

attachicon.gif396_151306_450000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_151307_310000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_151308_200000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_151309_160000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_151310_130000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_151101_530000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_151103_310000000.jpg

They are excellent, thanks a lot. I was considering Metcalf as carcasses, windows already cut, but the disadvantage with these is the curvature of the die-cutter, made worse by adding paper and losing sharp edges. A picture-framing friend of mine has dropped of a shed load of mounting-board offcuts, and these take a nice crisp line. So, I think its scratch; better in the long run, particularly as I want to have staggered houses on hills.  

 

Thanks again. Tony.

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Here, engine shed/workshops combined.

 

Auxillary buildings, coaler and signal box - all 4mm, commercial brick papers. - all second hand and lifted from a model railway in a cold, damp loft -  hence brick paper lifting in places, and superficial damage.

 

Get 'lifting' !

 

Cheers.

Allan

 

attachicon.gif396_141554_240000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_141706_220000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_141601_140000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_141601_590000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_141602_430000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_150536_500000000.jpg

 

Here, engine shed/workshops combined.

 

Auxillary buildings, coaler and signal box - all 4mm, commercial brick papers. - all second hand and lifted from a model railway in a cold, damp loft -  hence brick paper lifting in places, and superficial damage.

 

Get 'lifting' !

 

Cheers.

Allan

 

attachicon.gif396_141554_240000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_141706_220000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_141601_140000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_141601_590000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_141602_430000000.jpgattachicon.gif396_150536_500000000.jpg

Wow! The shed, at least, is pure Great Central, a North-light unit with those nice cosy offices attached.

 

You're spoiling me rotten!

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They are excellent, thanks a lot. I was considering Metcalf as carcasses, windows already cut, but the disadvantage with these is the curvature of the die-cutter, made worse by adding paper and losing sharp edges. A picture-framing friend of mine has dropped of a shed load of mounting-board offcuts, and these take a nice crisp line. So, I think its scratch; better in the long run, particularly as I want to have staggered houses on hills.  

 

Thanks again. Tony.

 

Hi Tony.

 

I've never had anything to do with Metcalf card kits - Superquick yes, many years ago - and I was just wondering that if you're intending to recover them in brick paper, and you say the leading edges of the apertures etc, are 'curved' would it not be possible to turn the building inside out and then cover the back where, or so I would imagine, the die cut edges on the insides, should be sharper and more defined.

 

Anyway Tony, just a thought.

 

Cheers.

Allan.

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Allan

If you use brick paper, is it the sticky back type? Because I tried that left it in the loft for a couple of months, then it suddenly started lifting off in all directions. It was like the paper had had a serious argument with the plastic frame and was buxxering off to pastures new! Ever since I have decided to use plastic sheet brick which involves a lot more painting, undercoat for groat, then top coats by hand with a drier brush to not mess the air sprayed 'grouting', although I am thinking maskol could speed this up.  I am assuming that you get a reasonable colour match paper then airbrush the result with layers of black/brown/ sometimes green to give that beautiful aged patina. The water tower is really gorgeous by the way, so of course are the others, I suppose it's the photo angle I like  so much

 

Hi Jaz.

 

I would have thought using  'self sticky' anything on a model is a recipe for disaster - the gum, and that's all it is, as with self stick envelopes and stamps, is too week to hold under stress and particulary damp conditions.

 

Providing the the envioronment is kind, a temperature controlled room and not a damp garden shed or loft, then I've found Evostik Impact adhesive works very well on brickpapers and will not bubble or stretch as it does when using water based glues such as PVA.

 

What I do, is to sread a generous layer over the card only, then while it's still wet, offer up the brick sheet but you really only get one shot at this so you have to line it up VERY carefully ! - I did once try Carpet Spray Adhesive and Photo Mount - disaster !!

 

I never use plasic embossed brick sheets, too much messing about, and that 'beautifull patina' as you so kindly referred it, is achieved with weathering powders.

 

Cheers.

Allan.

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Wow! The shed, at least, is pure Great Central, a North-light unit with those nice cosy offices attached.

 

You're spoiling me rotten!

 

Yes, it was worked up from a book, North Eastern Engine Sheds I think it was called - the North Light repair shops bit on the side was my contribution !

 

Cheers.

Allan.

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Now, I don't want to be thrown off this thread, for writing what is probably an act of heresey, but.....

 

Post #611, picture 5 - the close up of the bay windows.  To me, the bay windows are not 'fixed' to the main wall, but appear to be floating somewhat. I guess from a distance (3ft rule) this is not so apparent, but looks distinctly odd in such high definition.

 

 

I can cope quite well with adding printed paper to card (I create one crease where an end wrap-round will be, add glue to the paper then add the card to the paper) - where I struggle is with creating several windows all the same size & shape (somewthing which the bay windows do achieve.)

 

So, what ever happened to Downesglaze and is there any chance of it making a comeback ?

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Stubby47

I am all for searching for joins.....but I just went and looked at that picture, which bay window? The top left one which perhaps leans just a little to the right - but have you honestly looked at real houses? I don't study our VERY expensive double glazing too hard it makes me wince.Step back and hey hey looks worth all the moola ;) Is that why you think it floats? The bottom left hasn't caught the reflect light, that too happens, so it appears to have no glass at all. They must have been pretty clean.....

 

However on looking at it closely I do notice..............MILK BOTTLES!!!!!! Allan did you make 'em? Can I buy them from somewhere? Was it a little modelling clay? Should it not of had a gold top and a blue tit nicking the cream!!!!!!! ;p Milk bottles......off to investigate..................ooooh oooh weren't steps white washed? You need a lady bent over cleaning them or at least a bucket and sponge with the door ajar so she is just about to come back :sungum: .....off to investigate milk bottles, buckets,,,,and brooms???

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Now, I don't want to be thrown off this thread, for writing what is probably an act of heresey, but.....

 

Post #611, picture 5 - the close up of the bay windows.  To me, the bay windows are not 'fixed' to the main wall, but appear to be floating somewhat. I guess from a distance (3ft rule) this is not so apparent, but looks distinctly odd in such high definition.

 

 

I can cope quite well with adding printed paper to card (I create one crease where an end wrap-round will be, add glue to the paper then add the card to the paper) - where I struggle is with creating several windows all the same size & shape (somewthing which the bay windows do achieve.)

 

So, what ever happened to Downesglaze and is there any chance of it making a comeback ?

 

Not floating as such but more of a 'bad' fit. These buildings were built at a very tight buget and were for background buildings only - you'se gets what's you'se pays fer! - However these below might illustrate a better fit, and a better off client!

 

Not sure whether Downesglaze still exists, I thought I saw it advertised once somewhere a few years ago but I have nothing to do with it anymore - It was handed over to Mike Boardman who financed it in the first place way back in the 70s.

 

Anyway, and compared to todays offerings, Downesglaze is nothing more than a cheap means to an end.

 

When I first came up with the idea, no one was doing anything like it - you simply could just not get windows - so I put the idea to Sidney Pritchard (Peco) who said if you go ahead with it, I'll market it and distribute it for you, so I done it, and he did it !

 

post-18579-0-74662900-1373288138_thumb.jpgpost-18579-0-90892200-1373288640.jpg

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Re building bay windows all the same size, I build as many as I need for any particular building  in a batch which can't help but guarantee conformity.

 

Below, bay window construction as it appeared in MR. ( for demonstration purposes only !!)

 

post-18579-0-94216000-1373290090_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for the explanation.

 

I've often used Metcalfe windows for buildings (see the cottages on the BCBB module - link below) and would appreciate a source of similar pre-glazed, variously sized windows - hence my request for Downesglaze.

 

There's probably a market opportunity there for some aspiring entrepreneur...  (calling Lord Sugar !!)

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Thanks for the explanation.

 

I've often used Metcalfe windows for buildings (see the cottages on the BCBB module - link below) and would appreciate a source of similar pre-glazed, variously sized windows - hence my request for Downesglaze.

 

There's probably a market opportunity there for some aspiring entrepreneur...  (calling Lord Sugar !!)

 

And very nice too.

 

What brick paper did you use?

 

Cheers

Allan

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Thank you !

 

There are no chimney pots, nor a central chimney stack, but it was made as a copy of Andy Y's BCB cottages, and as no-one can see them (long story, lots of in-jokes), I didn't think it mattered what I left off...

 

The paper is Scalescenes Aged Red Brick - a lot of my buildings seem to use this... see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/32981-stubbys-latest-boxfile-layout/?p=381134

 

P.S. - have you seen this ?

http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/product/38560/4F030008_Dapol_16_Ton_Steel_Mineral_Wagon_number_tba_wthd

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Thank you !

 

There are no chimney pots, nor a central chimney stack, but it was made as a copy of Andy Y's BCB cottages, and as no-one can see them (long story, lots of in-jokes), I didn't think it mattered what I left off...

 

The paper is Scalescenes Aged Red Brick - a lot of my buildings seem to use this... see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/32981-stubbys-latest-boxfile-layout/?p=381134

 

P.S. - have you seen this ?

http://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/product/38560/4F030008_Dapol_16_Ton_Steel_Mineral_Wagon_number_tba_wthd

 

Thanks Stubby, I'll make a note of that brickpaper, looks good.

 

Cheers.

Allan.

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I'm not sure, but I think the cameraman might well be Langley.

 

Are you sure RJS, Langley haven't made a decent figure yet, least of all one that looks human !

 

Cheers Allan

 

Anyway Robinson, if you're reading this, where the hell are you ?! - I'm takin' all the flak,  while you're rakin' in all the big bucks in Aberdeen !!!

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Are you sure RJS, Langley haven't made a decent figure yet, least of all one that looks human !

 

Cheers Allan

 

Anyway Robinson, if you're reading this, where the hell are you ?! - I'm takin' all the flak,  while you're rakin' in all the big bucks in Aberdeen !!!

Sorry, Allan! Just recovering from a rather exhausting work trip to Aberdeen, which was ...hot! Normally it's blowing a force 7 and with flakes of snow even in the summer and that's just on the buses. Incidentally, did you know how copper wire was invented? Apparently someone dropped a halfpenny on Union Street and in the ensuing struggle...  I shouldn't knock Aberdeen, it does have some stunning granite architecture.

 

Anyway, if I may join in the brickpaper debate...firstly, I usually stick the brickpaper with double-sided tape. I know you only get one shot at it, but if you make sure to use the base of the wall as a datum all should be well. It will never come off or bubble! Even better, the window openings can be cut out and folded back at which point they stick for good. I know this method is not for the faint-hearted, but it has worked for me for years. I used to use 3M "Display Mount" which is pretty darned good, but I found it left a residue at the edges of the walls which then bled and marked the finish sometimes.

 

Oh yes, you are going to ask me about the edges and the corners of buildings. I cut out edge strips from brickpaper, fold them and stick them on with super Pritt. The edges of the strips are cut with the "crenellations" so that they tooth into the existing brickwork, which I usually scribe horizontally anyway.

 

Hope that gives some food for thought...I will try and find some piccies later.

cheers,

Iain

 

Oh, Allan, you've been doing a great job of holding the fort, I really like those shots of the streets leading up to the castle!

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Are you sure RJS, Langley haven't made a decent figure yet, least of all one that looks human !

 

Cheers Allan

That was only a guess - given that they're the only manufacturer of 1/76 film cameras I was aware of (F151)! However having now consulted Langley's website I don't think it's theirs:

 

http://www.langley-models.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_OO_Scale_Accessories_F124_to_F171_16.html

 

 

 

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good to know you're always lurking Iain. Hope you're having fun.

 

OK so Lee has now accused me of lurking :O ...I am back at my desk and building stuff this morning, but to show willing, here's a couple of shots of my China Clay slurry loading point on my customer's layout:

 

post-18033-0-14804500-1373356140.jpg

 

post-18033-0-97243800-1373356170.jpg

 

I bought a copy of Scale Model Trains magazine, September 1983, which has an article of mine in it..."Building an oil depot" which, frankly, is nothing special. I can't believe I wrote so many words about so little...I'm ashamed of myself. Anyway, it did have a couple of diagrams, one of which I've scanned here because I think it's amusing and typical of what I used to do back then...sooo long ago.

post-18033-0-52136200-1373356396_thumb.jpg

 

cheers,

Iain

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While I'm at the screen, here's an ancient shot of a signal cabin, actually modelled on a North British design for a customer,from a drawing by the great PD Hancock. My customer wanted it called "Hurtletoot", I don't know why. Anyway, I wrote an article about it in the Railway Modeller and a month later, got a letter via the editor from the man himself, old PDH, saying that he liked it. I still have the letter ...it meant a great deal, as you can imagine. I don't really think it's very good, but I did a good job of the roof, which was slated with "peggies" or very small slates about a third the size of a Penrhyn "Lady", which I depicted by using computer chads. Sorry about the poor quality.

 

post-18033-0-24049500-1373357092.jpg

 

cheers,

Iain

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