Butler Henderson Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 The 0-6-0T I have seems to be okay, I make a point of running everything in round an oval of Kato Unitrack on the floor in both directions and both ways round the oval as soon as it arrives. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 Oh dear. Well, there is a reason why RTR exists. That reason is because some of us cannot be trusted even to attach a resin body kit to a proprietary chassis. Today I dusted off the Hawthorn Leslie starter kit. Yes, starter kit. It's a neat little kit, designed to fit on the Bachmann Percy chassis. I make no criticism of the kit, or the instructions. What follows is purely down to me. Because it's a starter kit, it comes with moulded handrails. Ironic, because fitting handrails is about the only thing I was likely to be capable of . There is a lot of hacking required to remove Percy's extensive moving eyes machinery before the new body will fit. I may have gone too far because the motor now just flops around and now has only a passing relationship with the gears. There is a piece of circuit board. Gods knows why, or what it does, but I'd like to bet that the chassis doesn't work without it. Bachmann intended it to live out its days screwed to Percy's cab roof. The Hawthorn Leslie needs you to transfer it to the other end of the locomotive and screw it to the underside of the saddle tank. It is mentioned in the instructions that it is preferable to file the chip narrower. A somewhat alarming instruction, but I carefully complied. My chip slowly became more of a French Fry, but I was running out of board that did not contain vital looking bits and it was still to wide to fit into the body. So, a considerable amount of resin had to be scraped away from the interior of the tank before the board, or chip, would fit. It was only after I had finished that I saw the advisory at the end of the instructions warning that the resin dust was "highly toxic" and that I should wear a "gas mask", which latter advice seemed a bit extreme. Fortunately, my old S10 respirator is somewhere in the attic in a box of rotting DPM combats and webbing, so I will be OK next time. In the meantime, I'm wondering what the consequences of breathing half a locomotive's worth of resin dust are likely to be. I don't feel well, I can tell, but so far the dizziness has not affected my ability to type. Unfortunately, it was then that I noticed that one of the soldered wires had parted from the board. Now, assuming that I could find the soldering iron I once purchased as an optimistic Youth, I would undoubtedly melt a major part of this component should I attempt to reattach the wire. What is a minor irritation for most is thus a disaster for me. So, having wrecked the chassis, I turned my attention to the body, various bits of which needed sanding and filing - more dust - and I decided to remove the moulded handrails and drill the various holes required. This went well and I was within an ace of having a body all prepped to be washed and then undercoated when the cab rear went pinging off into the vastness of our junk room. It is, I have been forced to conclude, lost for good. So, I have managed to create a non-working chassis from a childproof product, and lost part of the body for it. I am also now coughing and feeling disorientated and sick, but I am sure that will pass. All I can think to do is take the chassis to the local model shop where the Man Who Fits Decoders might resurrect the chip. I will have to fabricate a back out of plasticard, though, of course, I do not now know exactly what it should look like. Thus ends today's comedy of errors. Tomorrow, however, is another day. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenw Posted June 20, 2015 Share Posted June 20, 2015 I have. Last week I test fitted the RSH body to the saddle tank chassis and took it for a test run round the club's Duffield layout. It was a bit 'lumpy' to start with so I turned the wick up a bit to see if it would run in. NOPE. After two or three circuits it decided to stop for a smoke! To start with, the motor wouldn't turn more than a few degrees but eventually it freed up and ran again but not very well. Seemed to work OK on my dc supply at home. Took it to the club again last night - without the body on, it stopped after about ten feet with smoke issuing from the PCB with the chip 'socket' (blank fitted) looking distressed. Although the motor would turn by hand, it wouldn't under power so I am thinking of re-wiring to bypass the PCB. Also tried one of the Jouef 0-6-0Ts last night and that pottered round for more than an hour without any apparent problem. The 0-6-0T I have seems to be okay, I make a point of running everything in round an oval of Kato Unitrack on the floor in both directions and both ways round the oval as soon as it arrives.It just smoked again when tried it back home. Then started just shorting out. With the Blanking Plug removed from the socket and touching test leads direct to motor terminals still shorts out, on test gauge it takes a full 1 amp before controller cuts out.It had been test run previously light engine, and was running smoothly, this was just its first loaded test, just 6 wagons, and it didn't quite make one full lap Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 I have. Last week I test fitted the RSH body to the saddle tank chassis and took it for a test run round the club's Duffield layout. It was a bit 'lumpy' to start with so I turned the wick up a bit to see if it would run in. NOPE. After two or three circuits it decided to stop for a smoke! To start with, the motor wouldn't turn more than a few degrees but eventually it freed up and ran again but not very well. Seemed to work OK on my dc supply at home. Took it to the club again last night - without the body on, it stopped after about ten feet with smoke issuing from the PCB with the chip 'socket' (blank fitted) looking distressed. Although the motor would turn by hand, it wouldn't under power so I am thinking of re-wiring to bypass the PCB. Also tried one of the Jouef 0-6-0Ts last night and that pottered round for more than an hour without any apparent problem. Well, re-wiring to bypass the PCB didn't work - short circuit in the motor by the look of it . That chassis will have to go to the back of the 'Repair(?)' queue. Next is to see what needs doing to fit the body to the Jouef side-tank chassis. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenw Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 Well, re-wiring to bypass the PCB didn't work - short circuit in the motor by the look of it . That chassis will have to go to the back of the 'Repair(?)' queue. Next is to see what needs doing to fit the body to the Jouef side-tank chassis. Looks to be the same problem as mine. When I removed the 'blanking plug' from the PCB socket, isolating the motor from the PCB board and chassis, the motor still shorted out with test leads applied directly to it's terminals. Relegated to dead engine line Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 Taking the Jouef (branded Electroten anyway) side-tank chassis, I put a bridge of 40 thou plastc card across the body for the mounting screw to go into but the PCB was in the way so (being dc myself) that was removed and the chassis between the cylinders made flat. There are four wires to the PCB - two black and two red but not easy to tell where three of them start from. Started by joining the two reds and two blacks to each other - loco went reverse polarity! Life is never that simple is it. Trial and error (literally) established which reds to connect to which blacks. 1 - Loco runs. 2 - Correct polarity. 3 - Fingers crossed. 4 - Carry on with build. I will be fitting different buffers with larger diameter heads and I am still thinking about whether to change the supplied chimney. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
southcoastmtb Posted June 24, 2015 Share Posted June 24, 2015 (edited) The 14" andrew barclay has arrived. After an evening of building it has just been tested around the layout. Now for painting options...Thanks for a quality model and hope to buy more again soon. Edited June 24, 2015 by southcoastmtb 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted June 27, 2015 Share Posted June 27, 2015 Thanks JDW! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARCModels Posted July 8, 2015 Author Share Posted July 8, 2015 (edited) I'd like to announce that I have now moved to a new address: Please use this address to contact me. Thank you. Edited October 14, 2016 by ARCModels Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
black and decker boy Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 I'd like to announce that I have now moved to a new address: 25 St Richards Road Westergate Chichester West Sussex PO20 3RD Please use this address to contact me. Thank you. I'll wave on my way past tomorrow night heading home from work In Bognor :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARCModels Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 I am pleased to announce a new kit in my range and to be released within the coming months: 'Barclay 18" 0-6-0t with sloping side tanks' As with the RS&H 0-6-0t kit, this kit will also use the Electrotren 0-6-0st chassis And due to the upcoming release, I am pleased to inform you that I can take pre-orders for this kit, please email me at arcmodels@fsmail.net to request the pre-order form. Thank you. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon A Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 What happened to the 16" Bagnall 0-6-0ST (Post 128) please? Gordon A Bristol 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad McCann Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Now, these are welcome developments. I'm up for both, especially the Barclay. Cheers. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 Great news about the Barclay. Couple of questions: Is the body going to be scale length (I certainly hope so...)? Can anyone advise if the frame length/ motion arrangement/ wheel spacing is the same as the Barclay which High level currently produce? Cheers Paul A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ARCModels Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share Posted August 10, 2015 I can now confirm the cost of the Barclay 18" 0-6-0t with sloping side tanks, this will be priced at £35 To all those wondering about the Bagnall 0-6-0st, this will still be produced, however, its place will be second to the Barclay 0-6-0t. And about the scale, yes, this model will be scale length, unlike the RS&H 0-6-0t. This means that the original coupling of the Electrotren chassis cannot be used, but not to worry, as there will be means to attach the coupling. Thank you. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Arthur Posted August 10, 2015 Share Posted August 10, 2015 (edited) Excellent. Good to hear that it's scale length though still able to take an RTR chassis for those wishing to go down that route. My RSH build on a scratch chassis has stalled, along with a few other projects, whilst other domestic and DIY chores get in the way. Roll on autumn! Edited August 10, 2015 by Arthur Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hedfordtfc Posted August 15, 2015 Share Posted August 15, 2015 Is this for the RSH 0-6-0T? If you want to use a RTR chassis you might as well use the Electrotren chassis for which the body is designed, it has the outside cylinders too. I'm not sure that the 64XX chassis would fit. The body is considerably shortened to fit it the Electrotren chassis, though it's been cleverly done to maintain the right proportions. I've started the process of building a chassis from scratch and have had to reduce the wheelbases from the prototypical 24mm + 24mm, as per Gordon's measurements above, to 21mm + 21mm, again in order to maintain the right 'look'. The 64XX scales down to around 29mm + 29mm, it would look very odd even if it fitted. Have to apologise Arthur. I made the elementary mistake of misreading Gordon's dimensions from 7151. Thought he wrote 7.2" as 7'2" !!!! so the loco is actually 6'x6' wheelbase so forget pannier tanks !!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
southcoastmtb Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 i am looking to build a loco on an 0-6-0 chassis. however after 3 attempts at getting a working electrotren loco, i am still stuck, seams that the motor is very poor and after about 20 minutes it has seized up and caught fire... and worse taking the decoder with it... has anyone got any suggestions or news on a fix? many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poor Old Bruce Posted September 1, 2015 Share Posted September 1, 2015 i am looking to build a loco on an 0-6-0 chassis. however after 3 attempts at getting a working electrotren loco, i am still stuck, seams that the motor is very poor and after about 20 minutes it has seized up and caught fire... and worse taking the decoder with it... has anyone got any suggestions or news on a fix? I presume that the saddle tank and side tank models have similar motors but I, and others on here, have had the 0-6-0ST motor expire on us. I have used a side-tank chassis in my RSH kit which so far (famous last words) has behaved itself. I now have an 0-6-0ST on the repair line waiting for a new motor if anyone can offer a suitable alternative. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjgardiner Posted September 17, 2015 Share Posted September 17, 2015 His looks quite good, hopefully mine will as well when it's done. It's been a bit since my last update, as i was waiting on new stationary rollers arriving so i could work on the running issues in my apartment where i have no running line. That has now happened, and i seem to have worked out the alignment issues with the motor/wheels and it is running much smoother now. I've been able to mostly complete basic assembly, though the arrival of winter here means that since my paint booth is our balcony, it could be March or April when it warms up before i make any progress unless i pack up my gear and re-locate to paint at my parents in their heated garage. Anyways, a couple of update shots below: -Stephen Wow, it's been a while since i updated on my progress, partly because for a very long time i didn't make any. Then, around our bank holiday weekend at the beginning of September, i finally bit the bullet and got on with the lining out and finishing the painting (aside from some light weathering which is still to do). So without further ado, pictures of my ARC 14" Andrew Barclay as NCB 22 as preserved at the Bowes Railway. For those interested, its photographed on a diorama i am building of the Toronto Railway Museum "Railway Village" of relocated and restored heritage buildings. The buildings are 3D printed from my own drawings and modelling based on measuring the actual structures. I am quite pleased with the look, and it looks good with a couple of NCB wagons i have modelled as well to go with it. A bit of weathering and mucking up to hide the shine, and it will find a home in a diorama of some sort (i have a plan for a generic colliery shed/yard model to display wagons and small industrial locos on). Cheers, Stephen 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted September 17, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 17, 2015 Very nice Stephen, I'm a modern image modeller but do quite like little industrial locos like that. I can't help being drawn away from the nice shiny loco to that bizarre piece of trackwork on the right though! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sjgardiner Posted September 18, 2015 Share Posted September 18, 2015 (edited) Very nice Stephen, I'm a modern image modeller but do quite like little industrial locos like that. I can't help being drawn away from the nice shiny loco to that bizarre piece of trackwork on the right though! While off topic, the bizzare piece of trackwork is modelling the real life crossing of standard gauge and 7.5" gauge track at the Toronto Railway Museum. Our 7.5" minuature railway crosses full size track in 8 locations! It is modelled using T 1:450 gauge track which at 10" inches in HO was as close as i could get! Sweet Creek at Don Station by Stephen Gardiner, on Flickr Stephen Edited September 18, 2015 by sjgardiner 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JDW Posted September 19, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 19, 2015 Like / Thanks / Informative / Funny - take your pic, I can't decide which to click! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kenw Posted September 20, 2015 Share Posted September 20, 2015 I presume that the saddle tank and side tank models have similar motors but I, and others on here, have had the 0-6-0ST motor expire on us. I have used a side-tank chassis in my RSH kit which so far (famous last words) has behaved itself. I now have an 0-6-0ST on the repair line waiting for a new motor if anyone can offer a suitable alternative. While both the Barclay and Bagnall look interesting, but with a defunct RSH already which failed to manage a full lap of the club test track, and other's on here experience, another Electrotren chassis or two?? sorry but think I'll have to pass on that one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rope runner Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 Does anyone know the driving wheel diameter of an 18'' sloping tank Barclay? I have a reference book which puts AB 2107/1941 as having 4' diameter drivers, but these seem very large - although the footplate level is rather high, so it could well be correct Paul A. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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