RMweb Gold JCL Posted July 27, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 27, 2015 That makes sense, thanks Mike. The line should be invisible, and it wouldn't actually print. On the screen it is displayed as a very thin line so that you can click on it to change it's size, location, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 (edited) http://www.silhouett...lhouette-studio note the comments about printer alignment, particularly the HP printer, mine has an alignment check whereas the Epsons I've had in the past didn't. If the print alignment is out would it affect anything on the cutter? Edited July 27, 2015 by sleeper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steadfast Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 Thanks for the ideas to try with cutting out my ribs guys. One thing I know for sure is that they are parallel as it is drawn as a rectangle then duplicated, so at least that's one variable to exclude from my research. Definitely very much trial and error! jo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted July 27, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 27, 2015 With the higher feed clearance of the Curio (5mm) - does this mean that I can partially cut the likes of 3mm foamboard? Cutting through the outer layer and half (or so) of the foam and then finishing off the cut with a scalpel afterwards? What's the price of the Curio compared to the Portrait? (Apologies if it's already been mentioned) Cheers, Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 27, 2015 Share Posted July 27, 2015 A month after it arrived, I've just set up my Portrait. The delay was due to starting on a layout to make things for with it, and I thought baseboards and track would be a bit much for it (or the results would be rather flimsy) . It went fairly well, but Windows 7 couldn't find the driver until I installed it manually. I cut a reduced version of the bike from the Library, and a couple of words of text, and they came out nicely. I used 90gsm printer paper, and set the blade to 2 as recommended for copy paper, but it's scored the mat. I assume that's not supposed to happen. I suppose it makes sense to start with a lower setting than recommended, and work up. It took a bit of patience, but it's amazing how the fine bike spokes came off the mat in one piece. I need to produce a drawing of something I can cut in Plastikard next. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonhall Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 With the higher feed clearance of the Curio (5mm) - does this mean that I can partially cut the likes of 3mm foamboard? Cutting through the outer layer and half (or so) of the foam and then finishing off the cut with a scalpel afterwards? Probably, I suspect that is the intended use of the Curio, to surface mark thicker sheet (rather than truely cut) I suspect the other advantage is the ability to use a proper resiliant cutting mat rather than the easy to cut thin plastic carrier. What's the price of the Curio compared to the Portrait? (Apologies if it's already been mentioned) In dollars it seems to be similar to the Cameo, or twice the Potrait? Jon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 In recent weeks I've read all of this topic, played around with Inkscape, and pretty much understood it all. With my first attempt to do it for real, I'm now totally confused, and overwhelmed by the amount of stuff I'll have to wade through to find the answer. So, how does this: turn into this: Extra lines have appeared, it's miles off the page and several times larger than it should be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeOxon Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 (edited) In recent weeks I've read all of this topic, played around with Inkscape, and pretty much understood it all. With my first attempt to do it for real, I'm now totally confused, and overwhelmed by the amount of stuff I'll have to wade through to find the answer. So, how does this: Capture01.JPG turn into this: Capture02.JPG Extra lines have appeared, it's miles off the page and several times larger than it should be! You're making progress! Check your import settings in Studio: go to Edit menu, then Preferences.... Make sure that 'centered' is selected - this should put your drawing in the right place! Also check that you are using consistent measurement units (also in Preferences) I'm afraid DXF format is tricky, since Autocad keep changing the specification. If there are options in Inkscape (afraid I don't use it) then select the most basic (oldest) type of DXF. The one I use from Autosketch is called R12/LT2 Good Luck Edited July 28, 2015 by MikeOxon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted July 28, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 28, 2015 I think you have to specify polyline when exporting. Also, you might want to select all and convert "object to path". I'm afraid I'm in my phone, so I can't give you the exact menu option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 28, 2015 Share Posted July 28, 2015 You're making progress! Check your import settings in Studio: go to Edit menu, then Preferences.... StudioPrefs.jpg Make sure that 'centered' is selected - this should put your drawing in the right place! Also check that you are using consistent measurement units (also in Preferences) I'm afraid DXF format is tricky, since Autocad keep changing the specification. If there are options in Inkscape (afraid I don't use it) then select the most basic (oldest) type of DXF. The one I use from Autosketch is called R12/LT2 Good Luck I'd set it to "As-is", but it appears that "Centered" is also As-is, so that works. I hadn't got consistent measurement units, but I have now! DXF R14 is the only option. I think you have to specify polyline when exporting. Also, you might want to select all and convert "object to path". I'm afraid I'm in my phone, so I can't give you the exact menu option. It defaulted to "use LWPOLYLINE type of line output", but that's what was adding the extra lines. Clearing this option solved the problem. I'd already followed your suggestion from ages ago to convert all objects to paths, but have just noticed that you also suggested using "Object --> Release Compound Path" in Silhouette Studio, but I didn't do that. Anyway, it worked, and I cut it on printer paper successfully. I noticed that the measurements on screen were slightly different in the DXF file than in the original in Inkscape, so printed it on the laser printer too to compare them. There's a very slight difference, but I'm not sure which one is most accurate. It's not easy getting the paper off the mat cleanly. I did some minor damage to the finer detail, but it doesn't matter for this as the finished version will be done with Plastikard. After following the on screen suggestion to set the blade to 2 and cutting the mat with my first test of the Portrait last night, this time I set it to 1 and it cut the paper cleanly without marking the mat. Thanks for your help. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted July 29, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted July 29, 2015 Im pleased you got it. A couple more things that will hopefully help: - I always use a Stanley knife blade held at a shallow angle to push underneath the parts to loosen them from the mat - the lines that will be cut are always one colour and the lines to be scored a different colour. These colours will be saved in the DXF file. - eveytime I get a new material to cut I work out the best settings to use and then save them under a name like styrene 10 for .010" styrene, or cereal card. That's an impressive set of parts you have. Are you documenting the build in one of your threads? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeOxon Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 ................... Anyway, it worked, and I cut it on printer paper successfully . .............. I could see you were close, so very pleased you managed the final hurdle! Releasing the parts gets easier after you've used the mat a few times. At first I spent ages trying to remove small parts, such as the chads from inside window frames. Now I remove the surrounding areas first and then skim off the small parts with a scalpel blade. For styrene, I always use the slowest speed and the double-cut option. You can check the blade depth by holding the cutter head against the edge of the sheet and viewing the blade through a hand lens. All CAD programs are difficult to master because there are so many options and tricks that have to be learned, to make things line up correctly. It took me ages to work out the 'trim' tools in Autosketch but now I use them almost without thinking. Once you have got the hang of one program, stick with it because they're all different 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted July 29, 2015 Share Posted July 29, 2015 Im pleased you got it. A couple more things that will hopefully help: - I always use a Stanley knife blade held at a shallow angle to push underneath the parts to loosen them from the mat - the lines that will be cut are always one colour and the lines to be scored a different colour. These colours will be saved in the DXF file. - eveytime I get a new material to cut I work out the best settings to use and then save them under a name like styrene 10 for .010" styrene, or cereal card. That's an impressive set of parts you have. Are you documenting the build in one of your threads? I was aware of the Stanley knife blade, but my stock of them are downstairs, out of one door and in another one, it was dark and wet last night, and all I had to hand was a craft knife with the blades you break bits off as they blunt, so I wasn't making it easy for myself! I've got as far as using red for cutting lines, and I'm not sure if there will be any scoring on this one. I want to keep it simple to start with, and just cut everything from one thickness of material, and not complicate it by scoring too. That will come later. I'm thinking about starting a "Me and my Silhouette" thread to document my progress from simple stuff to things that may prove to be way beyond my abilities. I have a loco scratchbuilding plan that starts with a new cab and other bits to convert a Hornby OO Smokey Joe to O-16.5, then progresses via a simple O gauge tram engine, some O gauge Colonel Stephens locos, and eventually arrives at a fleet of 4mm broad gauge locos. Plus rolling stock, buildings etc. My new Cheapside Yard layout is being built partly with the aim of practising on things where accuracy and detail aren't too important, as long as it looks neat and presentable, so I can get really proficient before moving onto the serious stuff. But maybe I'll get so carried away with building things I won't want to spend much time writing about it! Or maybe life will get in the way again! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
choice Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Hi. This is a brilliant topic I just discovered, a great idea and I am definitely going to purchase either a Silhouette Cameo or Portrait, probably the Portrait as I model N Gauge and the extra cost and width from the Cameo will probably not benefit me. Anyway because I model N Gauge the 4mm Ruler Template is not much use to me and also being somewhat PC useless has anyone got a 2mm Ruler I could download to use on the Inkscape Programme please as I do not know how I could convert the 4mm one except try and halve each dimension. :scratchhead:Thank you. George. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brigo Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Anyway, it worked, and I cut it on printer paper successfully. I noticed that the measurements on screen were slightly different in the DXF file than in the original in Inkscape, so printed it on the laser printer too to compare them. There's a very slight difference, but I'm not sure which one is most accurate. Be careful, laser printers rarely print at 100 % accuracy particularly on the width or shorter side of an A4 sheet. The image is scanned across a drum by the laser through a mirror system. An inkjet printer is likely to be more accurate as the print head is physically moved by a stepper motor. Brian G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
damian Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 Has anybody tried the Pazzles cuter http://pazzles.com/products/creative-cutters/inspiration/specifications/ It says 1.8mm and 1000 gram pressure. Maybe this machine would do 40 thou plasticard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper Posted August 20, 2015 Share Posted August 20, 2015 It's a bit expensive at $399, that's around £265 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted August 24, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 24, 2015 Off at a tangent to the conversation (as always!), but I'm hoping that someone has played around more than me.... I'm making some matchboarded coach sides at the minute, and they are drawn out, and sat in studio ready to go. Now this is where is gets tricky. I have drawn the matchboarding in a different colour to the main body parts, as the matchboarding is scored using an Amy Chromas scriber. The rest is cut out with a normal blade. When I last did this I was using studio version 2, which meant that I had to group all the non-matchboarding parts together, and then delete them, and than scribe the sheet. When that had finished, I had to undo the delete, and then delete the matchboarding, change to the blade and then cut it out. Now I'm on version 3 something, I've looked at the options for colour cutting, but it doesn't seem to have an option for ignore. I've thought about splitting the drawing into two files, one with the cuts and the other with the scores, and then using the datum point thingy (The name escapes me at the minute) see if I can get the files done like that. But having read through the manual I'm confused how the datum point thingy works. Do you have to print onto the sheet to be cut from your normal printer, or do you have to use the portrait pen attatchment (I haven't got one!)? Help! Andy G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 24, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 24, 2015 You can decide which colour lines you need to cut. On the toolbar at the top, click on the last button but one and you display the cut options screen. You can then tick/untick the boxes to decide which colours you want to cut. Each colour can have different cut settings. You can also insert a pause between colours to change the knife/ scriber. I'm not on my computer so can't do screen shots, but have a mess around in that area and see how you get on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted August 25, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 25, 2015 Jason, I can't see where you insert a pause, but I can see the ticks. I hadn't realised that the ticks turns the cut on or off, I just thought that they where there to give that colour the advanced options... Interestingly, not that I need it, but how do you change the cut to perforations etc, when doing the individual cut method? Will try cutting later. Cheers Andy G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 25, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 25, 2015 You could always turn off the scribe line colours, run the cutting process, then turn off the cut line colours, turn on the scribe line colours, and run the cut process a second time with the scriber. As always, don't eject the paper until all of the cutting and scribing has been done. Personally I'd scribe then cut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium uax6 Posted August 26, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 26, 2015 Thats the way I intend to do it. Andy G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MickRalph Posted August 26, 2015 Share Posted August 26, 2015 Jason, I can't see where you insert a pause, but I can see the ticks. I hadn't realised that the ticks turns the cut on or off, I just thought that they where there to give that colour the advanced options... Interestingly, not that I need it, but how do you change the cut to perforations etc, when doing the individual cut method? Will try cutting later. Cheers Andy G To add a pause between colours, right click on a colour and there is a pop-up "Add Pause". If the colours aren't in the right order (eg scribing colours and cutting colours are mixed), you can re-order them by clicking on a colour and dragging it up or down the list. Mick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Henrik Laurell Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 Hi folks, I finally got my Curio yesterday and today I played with it for the first time. Unpack, install and get ready was easy but finding the right depth and pressure was a bit tricky. I did experiment with thick art paper first until it started working and then changed to 0.25mm plastikard which works great. I had some 0.75mm at home to so I tried that. Works great if one only need to snap the outer edges, but inner curves like windows wasn't easy. I guess 0.5mm is an ideal max thickness for plastikard in the Curio machine. A hole new world has opened up. I read this thread several times before, waiting for my machine to arrive. Now it is time to do it once more. Specially how to find the correct settings so one get a clean and precise cut is wanted. I am not really there yet. You who have the Cameo and Portrait, which thickness of Plastikard do you use ? If anyone interested, I put some pictures on my site at http://laurell.today/layouts/bmlr/2015/log150830.html Henrik 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted August 30, 2015 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted August 30, 2015 Hi Henrik, I hope you enjoy using it as much as I have done. It will be interesting to see how you get on as you have a newer machine than most of us. I'm not sure this helps, but I mainly use .010" plastic card which can be cut through, and .020" which must be scribed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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