A Guide to using the Silhouette Cameo Cutter

[raymw]

I've been meaning to ask for a while, does anyone know the format of the file/code sent to the cutter, g-code, hpgl, whatever? Is it possible to save that code to a file.

 

edit to add - OK found info, asked Graphtec - it's their code - GPGL, sort of like HPGL, and a web search turned up enough detail to maybe get me interested - I'll stick it into my to-do list.

Edited January 26, 2015 by raymw

[Dave at Honley Tank]

First solo attempt – a GCR 6 wheel brake

 

After much following of tutorials, re-reading pp1 to 37, groping around in the dark, test drawing, test cutting, raising questions here and with my friend RalphR, swearing, more swearing, I’ve finally started on my first ‘Portrait’- assisted project.

 

I think I’ve settled on drawing in CorelDraw X6 (full version); using my normal settings and drawing full model size in mm; using layers of differing line colour, matching layers to cut or scribe methods and saving as .dxf.

 

Open this in Studio3, ensuring that dimension units are mm, and that Edit>preference>.import dxf, is set at: “centred”; and that “white lines black” and “polylines” are ticked. (I’ve no idea what all that means, but it works for me!  However the file sizes come out much larger than expected and this can/does slow down Studio).

 

In Studio I first carry out any scribing by using “Select by colour” to delete every thing except the scribe lines and then set the m/c to my “scribe 10” settings.

 

That done, I revert the Studio drg to its original using the “undo” button and repeat the select by colour & delete to leave only the cut lines. Set the m/c to “cut 10” .

 

I have decided to leave the blade set at depth 10 (‘cause I kept forgetting to change it anyway!?!)  but as yet I’m not sure that I’ve found the best cutting pressure (thickness) for my m/c and the various materials I wish to cut. The machines seem to vary in this area – what works for one seems not to work elsewhere.

 

Another decision is to design around using 0.010” styrene and laminate as needed. I have been totally unable to cut through 0.020”, and even ‘snap-off depth has not always been achieved; - ~OK for marking-out and achieving a reasonable scribe depth for cutting by hand, and future research will be looking at that feature and its application to brass/nickel silver sheet.

 

The following pictures show up my poor camera ability but, for what it’s worth, here they are:-

The two examples are; one in laminated 2 x 0.010”, the second is in 0.020”.

 

From above

 

 

From the side, with pencil dust rubbed in to high-light the scribe marks

 

End & Three-quarter views

[MickRalph]

Looking good, Dave.  Leaving the blade at setting 10 and adjusting the thickness to achieve the depth of cut is what I do.  I am cutting several times at different thicknesses to achieve cutting through 20 thou, though it does seem to be hit and miss as to whether it does actually cut right through - perhaps different type of plastic cards are differing hardnesses. 

 

I think it was Ron Heggs who suggested cutting first at thickness 5 to provide a suitable guide to avoid the blade wandering on later (thicker) cuts.  I then use thickness 15 or 20 and finish at thickness 33, using double cut each time. I have found that I need four or five passes at double-cut 33 to achieve a cut through, or snapping depth for 20 thou.  I haven't though tried a comparative test to see whether this actually produces a better cut than straight in on thickness 33 for a particular job.

 

Mick

 

Edit:  It is scribing all lines/colours which gives the guide for the cutting blade; the successive cuts at different thicknesses (pressures) replicates the manual cutting technique for plasticard.

Edited January 31, 2015 by MickRalph

[MickRalph]

Inkscape 0.91 Released

 

I have just received an announcement that the new version of Inkscape has been released.  The Press Release can be seen here.  The new program can be downloaded from the downloads page on www.inkscape.org.

 

Mick

[Dave at Honley Tank]

Looking good, Dave.  Leaving the blade at setting 10 and adjusting the thickness to achieve the depth of cut is what I do.  I am cutting several times at different thicknesses to achieve cutting through 20 thou, though it does seem to be hit and miss as to whether it does actually cut right through - perhaps different type of plastic cards are differing hardnesses. 

 

I think it was Ron Heggs who suggested cutting first at thickness 5 to provide a suitable guide to avoid the blade wandering on later (thicker) cuts.  I then use thickness 15 or 20 and finish at thickness 33, using double cut each time. I have found that I need four or five passes at double-cut 33 to achieve a cut through, or snapping depth for 20 thou.  I haven't though tried a comparative test to see whether this actually produces a better cut than straight in on thickness 33 for a particular job.

 

Mick

 

Edit:  It is scribing all lines/colours which gives the guide for the cutting blade; the successive cuts at different thicknesses (pressures) replicates the manual cutting technique for plasticard.

Thanks Mick; yet again you've helped me; this time to make-up my mind. I had been considering that the initial scribe should include the cut-through lines. So my personal "How to ..." notes will be modified so that the first move is to scribe everything with the knife blade. I'm waiting for two cb09 holders, a set of 45 degree and a set of 60 degree knife blades. As to a diamond scribber, the modern pen holders for the Portrait don't have collets so small, and there sounds, from input to this theme, to be other problems too. May end up turning my own scribbing tool(?). but weight on the head may raise issues.

Incidently a good few days back I tried to order the 1/8" diamond scribber from Amazon uk but they have introduced a system where they only allow you one if the total order for Amazon products exceeds some figure. My order well exceeded that figure but the majority of the order was via third parties and my scribber was " put-by" for some future order!!!!!

 

Dave 

[MikeOxon]

I've just downloaded Studio v.3.3.451 (1/22/2015) and it appears to have resolved the problem with curved corners that I first reported in Post #727 of this thread

 

Mike

[JCL]

Hi Dave

 

Looks good, it's almost how I do it. And I agree with Mick's method as well. The only thing I change is that you don't have to actually delete any parts, just turn the colours on and off in the cutting options panel. I've been there with deleting and relying on undo to get things back - for one reason or another, they don't always undo.

 

cheers

 

Jason

[JCL]

I've just downloaded Studio v.3.3.451 (1/22/2015) and it appears to have resolved the problem with curved corners that I first reported in Post #727 of this thread

 

Mike

 

That's good news.

[Dave at Honley Tank]

Hi Dave

 

Looks good, it's almost how I do it. And I agree with Mick's method as well. The only thing I change is that you don't have to actually delete any parts, just turn the colours on and off in the cutting options panel. I've been there with deleting and relying on undo to get things back - for one reason or another, they don't always undo.

 

cheers

 

Jason

That was my next intended try; cut by colour. Slow learner or what?

Some of us owe you a lot Jason! Without this thread I may not have decided to dip my toe in; Thanks again - that includes all on here who give guidance.

Dave

[jonhall]

No connection except as a satisfied customer, but another chance to get a discount on Silhouette cutters 

 

We're sharing the love and offering 14% off EVERYTHING* all weekend.
Simply visit www.yolo.co.uk and enter the code LOVEYOLO at checkout.

 

Jon

[BrushType4]

Thanks John I ordered the cameo 2 and it will be here tomorrow! Now to read this thread on how to use it.

[clarkis]

awful quiet here lately...what's everyone working on?

Clark

[JCL]

Hi Clark

 

I'm waiting for a 3D print or two of a GNR loco and thinking about my Havenhouse layout with its half brick signal box. I did the last one in card, but I want to try doing the next one in styrene using .010" in layers for the window frames. On that score, did anyone successfully scribe a load of bricks into styrene? If not, any recommendations for shops to get some sheets from as I'll be exporting them?

 

Cheers

 

Jason

[cambriancoaster]

Hello Clarkis & JCL

 

Here are images of my first attempts with the Silhouette Cameo/Studio combination.  They are the start of what I hope will ultimately be a low relief block of shops for my Pwllheli layout (see http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/60560-pwllheli-next-stop/) for more details.  

 

 

 

 

Prototype shops

 

Walls are constructed from 20thou styrene

Doors and window frames from 10thou styrene

Windows from 10thou glazing 

Signage from 10thou styrene.

 

 

Best wishes

CC

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Anotheran]

Hello Clarkis & JCL

 

Here are images of my first attempts with the Silhouette Cameo/Studio combination.

 

Hi Cc,

 

They look fantastic! How low have you been able to go on the width of the frame elements between the panes in the upper half of the windows? It looks really fine.

 

Kind regards, Neil

[cambriancoaster]

Hi Cc,

 

They look fantastic! How low have you been able to go on the width of the frame elements between the panes in the upper half of the windows? It looks really fine.

 

Kind regards, Neil

 

Hello Neil

 

Thanks for the kind comment.   The frame elements between the panes are about 0,5 mm in width (equating to a prototype 1.5 inches in 4 mm to the foot scale).   They are cut from 10 thou styrene.  

 

If I try and reduce the width below 0.5 mm the window elements tear during the cutting process..

 

Best wishes

 

CC

[clarkis]

CC- that looks great - especially for .020 plasticard... How are you doing the corners of the windows...they look nice and square?

clarkis

[cambriancoaster]

CC- that looks great - especially for .020 plasticard... How are you doing the corners of the windows...they look nice and square?

clarkis

 

Hello Clarkis

 

Nothing special - I just use the Silhouette Studio (version 3) rectangle drawing facility, adjust the rectangle to size and, where applicable, use the copy/paste facility to produce any duplicates (of windows, doors etc.).  

 

Its all very easy and its surprising what you can accomplish in an evening.

 

Regards

 

CC

[siltec]

I have been trying out some tram and light rail bodies. I am not sure if freelance designs are a heresy or not.

 

This is the front end of a tram cut from coloured card. The lining is by poltting rather than printing. Windows are OHP acetate. As it was rather thin card the body is re-inforced inside with bristol board.

 

 

Below is a side view of this tram. It is designed to go on an ex-Underground Ernie chassis.

 

 

Below is another variant of this tram. This one is a printed bodie with flush rather than recessed doors. I also created an interior sandwiching the acetate between interior and exterior.

 

 

This is another early effort. I learnt a lot about glue and design of front ends. I try to avoid joins on corners now. A large body designed to fit on an old diesel loco chassis.

 

Work in progress.

 

 

 

[Peterkern23]

I have just bought a cameo online and await delivery next week. I have few questions to ask those in the know;

 

Does the cameo cut acetate sheet for glazing?

 

Does it have the potential to create brick courses too?

 

Any advice would be appreciated guys

 

Cheers

 

Pete

[Siberian Snooper]

I tried doing brick courses, but found that studio didn't like the file size much. In the end I just used it to cut out SE Finecast sheet and cut and scribe the brick arch. If you look back a page or 2 you should see my post with a similar question. There is a screen shot of my cad drawing along with it.

[Peterkern23]

Ah okay thanks I will look. It's not an issue for me I was just curious!

 

Pete

[Fettster42]

Apologies if I am asking a question that has already been asked in here, I am working through it, but also have had my portrait since my birthday (before christmas) and have only just opened and done my first test prints,

 

Can you print/cut directly from AutoCAD?

 

IF not can you open a DXF with the colours used retained?

 

Thanks all, excited to start using it. Just must remember that 9-5 CAD is for work, not railways!

 

Thanks

 

Leigh

Edited March 21, 2015 by Fettster42

[Ron Heggs]

Apologies if I am asking a question that has already been asked in here, I am working through it, but also have had my portrait since my birthday (before christmas) and have only just opened and done my first test prints,

 

Can you print/cut directly from AutoCAD?

 

IF not can you open a DXF with the colours used retained?

 

Thanks all, excited to start using it. Just must remember that 9-5 CAD is for work, not railways!

 

Thanks

 

Leigh

 

Hi, Leigh

 

I use AutoCAD for both 2D and 3D modelling. To facilitate cutting/scribing with my Silhouette Cameo a DXF file is produced using coloured entities to enable both the cutting and/or scribing at my preferred/required settings and order within Studio3

 

I always save the drawing within AutoCAD for cutting/scribing as a AutoCAD R12/LT2 DXF file. This ensures that the most primitive entities are transferred without any 'future' compatibility issues. I don't use layers for colour definitions, just define each entities colour

 

Have not attempted to 'print' from AutoCAD to the Cameo. I honestly believe that more control is possible by file transfer, and using the functions within Studio3 to produce the required cutting/scribing control

 

Cheers

 

Ron

[JCL]

Hi there, although I'm using different software (Inkscape), I'm using the same workflow as Ron.