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Liquid flux and where to get it?


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Dear All,

Having just spilt my last flux over my bench I am now without any. I have asked some friends and shop keepers regarding types of flux to use for whitemetal and brass kit building and the majority go for liquid flux (as I did) but no one has it in stock or knowledge of whom may have some.

Please can I have some suggestions (polite).

Thank you in advance for any suggestions

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The Carrs range from C&L Finescale are very good.

 

My personally preference is their yellow flux with 100 degree solder for whitemetal and the green flux with 145 and 183 degree solder for brass and nickel silver. But everyone seems to have their own preferences.

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I use Carr's liquid fluxes for all of my soldering work and can thoroughly recommend them - red, black and yellow are staples of my workshop supply cupboard.

 

Still available through mail order from Chronos

 

http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/Engineering_Menu_Carrs_Solders___Fluxes___etc_346.html#aTL1

 

Yellow for white metal/low temp melt

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<p>Try this stuff:<a href="http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52">http://www.7mmlocomotives.co.uk//index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=1&category_id=1&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=52</a></p>
<p> </p>
<p> </p>
<p>Low acidity, doesn't splatter, doesn't turn Nickel Silver instantly green, won't rust steel tyres on sight, but does an excellent job, with the minimum of EASY cleaning up afterwards.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>I've been using it for a while now for both brass and whitemetal.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Oh, and here's a tip: buy some blu-Tak, roll out a suasage, wrap round the base of your flux bottle and press down onto bench. It's FAR less likely to get tipped over.</p>
<p> </p>
<p>Or tranfer some into a smaller, squatter bottle and do the same.</p>

Edited by JeffP
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I have always used the stuff that Andy Duncan sells, 12% phosphoric acid, which is good for using with low-melt on whitemetal castings, though I have just bought some 85% acid from Ebay and diluted it down, giving me 5 bottles to keep me going for some while - it seems to do the job just as well.

Edited by peter220950
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Hello all,

 

as the OP has not bothered about saying thank you to any one, why help him?

 

OzzyO.

To be fair, he did say 'Thanks in advance', which is more than many do.

I recollect my grandfather making his own flux using what I believe to have been dilute sulphuric acid with some zinc added; with this, a bar of solder, and a soldering iron that bore a more-than-passing resemblance to a branding iron, I have known him to reattach a broken wire from armature to coil on a Hornby-Dublo R1. OK, it cogged a bit afterwards, but at least it worked..

Coming from a small-holding family, he wasn't inclined to throw away (or 'waste' as he'd say) anything; he used to make his own insecticide by steeping his saved cigarette butts in water.

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Bakers fluid used to be known as killed spirits, and is hydrochloric acid "killed" with excess zinc. My dad and I used to make our own by adding zinc to a jar of the acid. Being a laboratory chemist, I had access to the raw materials. Trouble with it was the corrosive effect, so you had to wash any soldering jobs several times.

My dad was a sheet metal worker and built me a 4mm loco in his lunchtimes at work, using a large iron and heavy tools. He was a wizard with metal and wood.

He taught me to solder when I was a little lad, wasn't I lucky.

Derek

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Hello all,

 

as the OP has not bothered about saying thank you to any one, why help him?

 

OzzyO.

 

 

 

But it less than 72 hours, and the member is new - give him a break.

Quite. And as was pointed out he has thanked members for their replies in advance. There are many reasons, such as work or family commitments, which might preclude a member being available on here 24/7.

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