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'Ashcombe'


georgeT

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Morning Bodgit,  Major re-think on the track at 'Ashcombe' l think it will be harder than at first thought, l would ruin most of the scenery etc etc, so will keep the peco track, will build the track on the next project...

 

As l have bought the parts needed to build the track l thought l would have a go, first downloaded a point template from TEMPLOT then stuck it to a board, then more double-sided tape to hold the sleepers in place, then l thought why not build three, jump right in there, hahaha

 

George

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In at the deep end or what :D

 

One thing that I learned very quickly is that where the switch blade meets the curved rail, put a slight outwards kink / joggle in the curved rail so that the blade sits in properly and does not sit proud when the straight route is selected. If you look at real points, they do have this.

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Morning George,

Brave man but I can't wait to watch the progress. Good 'pointer' from Jason there! Best of luck, looking forward to the photographs of your progress.

Jason kindly offered to advise me on the old SMP plastic base point kits so I've got my grandson up in the loft to try to find one so I can put pics on the lounge! Only want to use them for financial reasons!

Kind regards,

Jock.

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Morning Jason / Nestor / Jock,  Thanks for the tip Jason, l can really say l am enjoying it, amazing how quick it comes together, l have just spot soldered along the main lines at the moment, but the frogs needs a bit of thinking about, l know you can buy the frogs already made but they are really expensive, and that would defeat the reason for building cheap in the first place, l think l can file the frogs etc myself, if it don't work l'll do it again...

 

George

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One thing that I learned very quickly is that where the switch blade meets the curved rail, up a slight outwards kink / joggle in the curved rail so that the blade sits in properly and dies not sit proud when the straight route is selected. If you look at real points, they do have this.

 

Hi George,

 

It's called the "set" and it's marked on the Templot templates:

 

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It's a definite sharp bend in the rail at that position, not just a curve. Without it you will never get the switch blades to fit properly, as Jason explained. Here's a picture of that bend on the prototype:

 

stock_rail_rea.jpg

 

The angle of the bend is quite small, called the switch deflection angle -- you can check it by measuring between the outer stock rails where it says "stock gauge" on the template. That distance should be your track gauge size plus the width of one rail. You can check it by fitting an oddment of rail into your track gauge.

 

Here's a simple way to make that bend:

 

improvised_v_press.gif

 

regards,

 

Martin.

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Hi George.

I dont want to stop you while your in full swing but have a look at a step by step i did. The link is in my signature. Others have done this too - Gordon S.

 

There's pictures of building a frog as per Brians method, Jasons/Martins set and how to file switch blades that Alan Mellor showed me. 

 

I see your building from the outside in towards the frog. This can have problems as there is no room for errors, ie you run out of space. Better to build from the frog out.

I.e frog, wing rails, check rails, then stock rails. No doubt, i'll get shouted down for this, but that's how  i've been told to do it from many who are more experienced than me.

 

Ray.

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In at the deep end or what :D

 

One thing that I learned very quickly is that where the switch blade meets the curved rail, put a slight outwards kink / joggle in the curved rail so that the blade sits in properly and does not sit proud when the straight route is selected. If you look at real points, they do have this.

The kink is known as a set, the stock rail is bent at the same angle as the blade is planned so the blade will lie snugly against it the curve continues from the end of the set. A joggle is a wiggle in the rail if you place two pices of shim either side of the rail and squeeze in the vice it will produce a joggle (works with bullhead probably not with fb) this can avoid the wheels hitting the blade tip on a facing point.

Don

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Good Morning Martin / Ray / Jason / Bob / Don,  Thanks for all the information and help, shining a light on the dark area of making track, have a lot to learn yet but with all your help and support, should get there soon ?

 

With the switch rails l was going to file a little recess where the blades could fit into ?

 

George

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George this is a jig I made for the crossings

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This one is for 1:5.5 crossings on 0 gauge. Just a simple bit of wood with the crossing drawn on and some nails driven in to hold the rails. With copperclad you can build the crossing on the template but with plastic chairs you need to do the soldering first.
Regarding filling a small recess for the blade. Yes it will work but the joggle is more prototypical.
 
Don
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It won't work anywhere near as the method described above George, you may get stock to run through but it will not be smooth.

 

Putting the slight bend in is a far better way of doing it.

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Hi George

 

It's looking really good.

I think I will definitely have to have a go but not for Sandhurst but maybe a small little diorama of some kind. Might resurrect Fulking Road...

 

Good luck with the rest of it

 

Nestor

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That looks good to me George I always check with a straight edge that the crossing nose is not slightly pround of the line from the running rail. I have a short 6in steel rule and place it along the rails to check.

 

Don

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Morning George,

It just occurred to me that I can't see any electrical breaks on the surface of the sleepers. Do you have a plan for this or were the above pics purely for testing purposes? Or on the other hand am I just being stupid?

Kind regards,

Jock.

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Morning Jock, l think we are all stupid at sometime during construction of whatever ? l was stupid not looking into making tracks, didn't notice that you would need a kink (set) in the rail to make the switch rail fit nicely, just went about it willy-nilly as l do, then more knowledgeable members on here (Jason - Ray - Martin - Don) to name a few who have kindly put me right, the electrical breaks etc etc will be added when completed..

 

Regards George

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