Administrators Phil Parker Posted July 6, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted July 6, 2014 You are spot on. One of the many improvements I'd make to this layout if space permitted would be to add more scenery between the bridge and station throat. An extra 3 or 4 feet would dramatically change the look of the model, or you could build it in N. Having said this, it all works as is. What we did was build as small as possible since it's better to explain to people that their version will look better rather than try to work out how to make the plan smaller. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted July 9, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 9, 2014 It is always a compromise between the length of the station and the length of the main line before the scenic block most people have so little room the main line is nearly all offscene. If you haven't the room for an extra bit of space for shunting a different plan where all the moves take place in the visible section will suit those who find the loco keep disappearing offscene not to their taste. Andy Peter's Glen Roy on here is such a plan with the sidings facing the other way. Such plans were less common full size but did exist. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted July 9, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted July 9, 2014 I agree - all layouts are a compromise. No one has "enough" space for a model railway, you always seem to want a bit more! We tend to focus on operation with people deciding not to start because they don't have the space. I'd suggest that even a micro-layout is worth building - for the FUN of building it. Your 2mm scale model looks great and I'd certainly like to produce something similar. While operation is important, the build isn't a horrible stage to be rushed through as fas as possible. Watching the scene gradually develop is as pleasent as playing trains at the end of it, or at least it is for me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solaaris Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 (edited) Ive wired my layout as the article said, but the engine shed line is completely dead, any idea where I have gone wrong? Im using e/frogs now compared to the last post I made I really do hate wiring, I cant get my head around it at all! Do I need to use insultating fishplates on both of the rails, or just one side? Ive only used it on 1 side? Cheers Edited August 15, 2014 by Solaaris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted August 16, 2014 Author Administrators Share Posted August 16, 2014 You don't have any insulating fishplates in the engine she siding. The only place you need a pair is in the middle of the crossover. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spiket4 Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Just found this and think its great. I have been looking to build my first layout for ages but due to space it hasnt happened. I might give this a try in N gauge. Mark 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted June 17, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted June 17, 2015 When we took the layout to shows, there were several people thought it would make a good N gauge layout. I'm inclidned to agree. I'd not shorten it too much if possible. More running in space between the bridge and station throat would improve the model, as would more baseboard width at the station end. The good news is that all the main buildings are available in N and that from experience, the operating potential is enough to keep you amused for a 2 day show. Well, it kept the BRM team amused anyway! Good luck, let us know how you get on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandrews2000 Posted August 9, 2015 Share Posted August 9, 2015 Good afternoon Having recently found this topic and then purchasing the digital editions of BRM from the months concerned. Could anyone help a complete novice on the actual measurements of the boards as i plan on finally making a start on this small layout. Any help would be grealty appreciated. Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium The White Rabbit Posted August 9, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 9, 2015 Good afternoon Having recently found this topic and then purchasing the digital editions of BRM from the months concerned. Could anyone help a complete novice on the actual measurements of the boards as i plan on finally making a start on this small layout. Any help would be grealty appreciated. Many thanks The plan on the first post looks to me like it's 10' x 1.25'. If you have some more space - use it! I'd try and get 12' x 2' past the 'planning authorities', and use three 4' x 2' boards. The extra width gives scope for scenic treatment - a weakness of mine - though it does mean access to the back could be tricky if the boards are fixed, most people's reach is about 2'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandrews2000 Posted August 12, 2015 Share Posted August 12, 2015 Thank you for your reply White Rabbit. Unfortunately i'm very limited on space so this plan would give me just enough operational entertainment whilst not upsetting the boss . I'm going to get a Large well known DIY store to cut my wood and really wanted to make sure my arithmetic was up to scratch. From what i've read in the magazine supplements each layout section measures 3ft in length x 15 inches in depth x 4.5 inches in height (14.5 inches inc of backscene height) So far i've calculated that i need:- 2 x Backboards = 3ft x 14.5 inches each 4 x Sides = 3ft x 4.5 inches each 5 x Endplates = 14.29 inches x 4.5 inches 1 x Endplate = 14.29 inches x 14.5 inches (Backscene/Fiddleyward) 3 x Top boards = 3ft x 15 inches each Im hoping my maths is upto scratch otherwise i'm going to end up with a very funny shaped baseboard. If anyone spots a glarring error please please free to chuckle but also let me know Kind regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted August 12, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted August 12, 2015 Sorry for taking so long to reply. Busy on Ruston Quays! Anyway, the overall size is right, each board is 3ft long & around 14 inches wide. If you can manage it, more width at the station end would make a better model as it's a bit tight there in my opinion. Even an extra inch will improve things. Good luck with your build, keep us up to date and I'll try to be quicker answering questions next time! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandrews2000 Posted August 13, 2015 Share Posted August 13, 2015 Thank you very much Phil, I shall look into extending the station area a little. Once i finally get started i shall keep everyone upto date with progress and hopefully pictures. Kind regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_tyne Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Hi Phil, I am more and more tempted to have a go at this in order to get me out of the armchair! Can I ask a question if you don't mind... Sorry if I have missed this (you undoubtedly will have said) but can I check what kind of points you used? I presume they are 'small radius' to meet the tight size constraints? Thanks very much, David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_tyne Posted August 17, 2015 Share Posted August 17, 2015 (edited) I've been thinking about this more and more as a project to get me re-started with my modelling. Actually it reminds me of Easingwold East, which is a stunning EM gauge layout by Peter Fletcher. It is a top-class finescale version but shows you what you could develop this little layout in to in exactly the same space. He used one less siding, which may cut down on the crampedness a little, but it is only 12" wide rather than 15", so it probably makes no different in reality. I just thought it might be useful to reference here for anyone who is attempting such a project or is thinking of giving it a go. David PS here is a link to some images... And rather ironically it is to Phil's blog!! http://philsworkbench.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/easingwold-east_17.html?m=1 Edited August 17, 2015 by south_tyne Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted August 17, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted August 17, 2015 Hi Phil, I am more and more tempted to have a go at this in order to get me out of the armchair! Can I ask a question if you don't mind... Sorry if I have missed this (you undoubtedly will have said) but can I check what kind of points you used? I presume they are 'small radius' to meet the tight size constraints? Thanks very much, David Always happy to answer questions, especially if it might free you from the armchair! Yes, the points are the shortest radius Peco Code 75s available. In an idea world I'd have gone for medium radius but on a short project it's important to maximise siding and loop length, hence shorties. If you aren't sure, download the full-size point diagrams from the Peco website: http://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=tempc75 and lay them out on the board, or even the board drawn on the back of some old wallpaper. Check loop and siding lengths with wagons and coaches not forgetting to allow for the loco at the head of any train. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted August 17, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted August 17, 2015 I've been thinking about this more and more as a project to get me re-started with my modelling. Actually it reminds me of Easingwold East, which is a stunning EM gauge layout by Peter Fletcher. It is a top-class finescale version but shows you what you could develop this little layout in to in exactly the same space. He used one less siding, which may cut down on the crampedness a little, but it is only 12" wide rather than 15", so it probably makes no different in reality. I just thought it might be useful to reference here for anyone who is attempting such a project or is thinking of giving it a go. David PS here is a link to some images... And rather ironically it is to Phil's blog!! http://philsworkbench.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/easingwold-east_17.html?m=1 I really like Easingwold East. I think you might find the extra siding on Edgeworth is worth the extra wdith required, it makes shunting much more enjoyable. However, the key is to enjoy building the layout and I'll admit that after spending a weekend next to EE, if I'd had nothing better to do, a version would have been in production! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_tyne Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 (edited) Always happy to answer questions, especially if it might free you from the armchair! Yes, the points are the shortest radius Peco Code 75s available. In an idea world I'd have gone for medium radius but on a short project it's important to maximise siding and loop length, hence shorties. If you aren't sure, download the full-size point diagrams from the Peco website: http://www.peco-uk.com/page.asp?id=tempc75 and lay them out on the board, or even the board drawn on the back of some old wallpaper. Check loop and siding lengths with wagons and coaches not forgetting to allow for the loco at the head of any train. Hi Phil, Many thanks for your reply, it is appreciated. Those Peco templates will be really useful, I am going to do as you suggest and lay things out as a full size mock up. The 9' length would be my absolute maximum and so I need to see whether I can get things to work in that length. I've also been mulling over a 6' version for n gauge. I've never done anything in the scale but it might serve as a useful testbed/introduction and also would be more managable in terms of size. Just a thought although I think I'd rather stick to 4mm. Thanks again, David Edited August 18, 2015 by south_tyne Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Izzy Posted August 18, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 18, 2015 I find lining paper ideal for drawing/setting out layout plans. Most decorator places sell it in a variety of thickness, I tend to use 1200 micron, at a few pounds a roll. 22" standard width so useful for many baseboard sizes. Full size mock-ups are so much more useful than scaled down ones, you get a better idea of the actul space needed, and what can be fitted into the space available, especially if you have a few bits of rolling stock or buildings to place on them. Izzy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rue_d_etropal Posted August 18, 2015 Share Posted August 18, 2015 Full size mock ups are still best way to try out ideas. Chances are you have a baseboard sorted out or something right size. Covering it with lining paper is a good idea,especially if the 'baseboard' is something used for other purposes(eg table top). Peco were years ahead with their templates, pity their OO setrack ones are still not available online. I used similar idea by creating templates for my own track system. Sometimes we are drawn to modern technology and forget about older ideas and methods. The skill is to know how to use the best of each. I explore quite a few ideas for 3D printing, but quite often realise traditional ways, including scratchbuilding is just as good. At least I do get the fun and challenge of designing something on computer, and it usually does not cost me any money. Some of these ideas show other possibilities, so are still useful prototypes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandrews2000 Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Good evening all After much deliberartion I finally decided to purchase my baseboards from a specialist instead of the DIY route. The boards arrived very quickly and where a doddle to put together thankfully. No intergrated backscene as per the original, but i'm pretty happy with this as I intend to move the backscene for photo purposes. Now I just have to wait for some PCB & Kadee magnets to arrive before I start getting my hands dirty. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted August 23, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted August 23, 2015 Good evening all After much deliberartion I finally decided to purchase my baseboards from a specialist instead of the DIY route. The boards arrived very quickly and where a doddle to put together thankfully. No intergrated backscene as per the original, but i'm pretty happy with this as I intend to move the backscene for photo purposes. Now I just have to wait for some PCB & Kadee magnets to arrive before I start getting my hands dirty. Those look nice. Who did you get them from? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandrews2000 Posted August 23, 2015 Share Posted August 23, 2015 Those look nice. Who did you get them from? Good evening Phil I purchased the boards from Grainge & Hodder ltd, the boards are made from laser cut 6mm ply. I found the boards fitted together beautifully and are very well priced. The 3ft boards are under £30 each and the 4ft fiddle yard board was just over. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators Phil Parker Posted August 24, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted August 24, 2015 Good evening Phil I purchased the boards from Grainge & Hodder ltd, the boards are made from laser cut 6mm ply. I found the boards fitted together beautifully and are very well priced. The 3ft boards are under £30 each and the 4ft fiddle yard board was just over. That's a reasonable price for good looking boards. I always argue good baseboards are a better investment than one more loco - firm foundations give you the best chance of a good layout. I'm no carpenter so this seems like money well spent to me. Good luck with the layout. Let us know how you get on. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
south_tyne Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 That's a reasonable price for good looking boards. I always argue good baseboards are a better investment than one more loco - firm foundations give you the best chance of a good layout. I always find that rather ironic and wholeheartedly agree! A good investment in a set of boards, which could even be reused, all for the price of a rtr shunter... Really is a 'no brainer' to me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dandrews2000 Posted August 24, 2015 Share Posted August 24, 2015 That's a reasonable price for good looking boards. I always argue good baseboards are a better investment than one more loco - firm foundations give you the best chance of a good layout. I'm no carpenter so this seems like money well spent to me. Good luck with the layout. Let us know how you get on. I couldn't agree more, I will post more photo's and info once I get started. Kind regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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