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Building Your First Layout Supplement


Phil Parker
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Sure has been a controversial topic on here in the past. I have to add that I am also a voter for the blank matt grey/pale blue backscene but would also say that I think it has worked quite well at the other end of the layout where you have blended in the on board scenery with the Peco scene. Perhaps it is just the very flat townscape that just clashes. Only a minor issue, still like the layout.

 

The countryside end is better. I think countryside generally is though, perhaps the lack of sharp edges and shapes makes it easier on the eye? Maybe the embankment rising up helps blend the two together as well, something harder to achieve with buildings.

 

At the station/shed end, Cyril Freezer's "optomisitic pencil" when drawing the plan left it all a bit cramped widthwise. I added a couple of inches but really would have liked another 6 to let the area breath. This would have pushed the backscene away from the buildings and perhaps allowed some trees or hoardings to cover it up a little.

 

However, the idea was to keep things small. Anyone following the series with a bit more space available will get a better model, which is a good thing. It's much easier to deal with more space then less.

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phil as i have put in the past iam a novices novice but hey got to start some where.

this has been great project to follow and is brillant for a beginner like myself before i move on to the big ambitious one. will you be taking this to alley pally

thanks phill

 

Edgeworth is off to Ally Pally next month. It will also be at the Leamington Spa show a couple of weeks before as well.

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A nice job of the Ratio engine shed.We were talking about the windows on this on my layout thread.The absence of glass in the windows.Is it worth the trouble of glazing it.

 

Yes it is. Don't stick plastic behind the frames though, they are far too deep to look right.

 

I used Krystal Klear (from Eileens Emporium) on my model although Humbrol Clearfix would work just as well. That way the glazing is almost flush with the frames which looks a lot better.

 

It might sound daft, but although we think glass is clear, an unglazed window looks wrong. Something to do with the lack of reflections I suppose.

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Anyone following the series with a bit more space available will get a better model, which is a good thing. It's much easier to deal with more space then less.

As long as they avoid the beginner's temptation to fill it with more track! :diablo_mini:

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Hi Phil

 

Is it possible to get some information on how you did the fiddle yard with this ?

 

It's very rare to see photos of layouts fiddle yards and I for one ( maybe the only one? ) am interested to see them

 

Hello Rob. The answers to "how others tackled fiddle yards" are fundamental, with almost infinite variety.

 

The ground area for my layout is constrained by the need to achieve access to a loft space. Only after the baseboards had been built and installed did I come up with an idea for an extension.

 

The first pic shows the problem and the quickfix solution.

 

post-489-0-93418200-1393844914.jpg

 

 

The other pics show how I reached a simple and workable 4-track plan. (By trial and error (and error)).

 

post-489-0-26462000-1393844983.jpg

 

post-489-0-64101300-1393845040.jpg

 

post-489-0-75866100-1393845077.jpg

 

The track is Peco Code 100, with Insulfrog points for electrical simplicity.

 

All four tracks are powered, and do not rely on point switching. The points are operated manually. I wanted to leave space between each track to enable assembly of rolling stock in the right order and pointing in the right direction. I would have much preferred a turntable, but the need for loft access reduced the options for complex carpentry.

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phil i want to build a loco from a kit that would run on edgeworth line could you recomend one or two for a starter cheers

 

Difficult as everything you need is available RTR, that was part of the reason we went for a GWR branchline.

 

It also depends on the era you are working in and your abilities as a kitbuilder.

 

Have you built any wagon kits?

 

How is your soldering? 

 

Hi,

Great to see the layout yesterday at Stoneleigh, just need to get started on building now...

 

Glad you enjoyed it. If you have any questions - ask here and I'll see what I can do to help - doubtless with RMweb members chiming in as well!

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i have built the plastic coach sets but would like to movee on to the locos . i think my solderings ok but i think beginners level would be about right especialy with the burn marks on the fingers to prove it . i think 1920s to 1940s as i might want to turn it from sleepy rural to allied ww2 so any in that era

its a great job youv done especial ready to run but i feel i just want to have a go.

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Still difficult as we really tried to avoid anything needing kits.

 

My suggestion might be to look at railcars - detail up the Hornby (ex-Lima) one or track down a K's or etched version. If you are really keen, I think Falcon Brass do a nice steam railcar but it's not for the feint-hearted!

 

Churchwood do a nice 45xx - http://www.modelexmodelrailways.co.uk/ - which I've heard good things about although never built one.

 

In WWII though, you could probably justify a wider variety of stock than normal so cast your net wide.

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  • 2 weeks later...

just got given a Dapol pannier tank but i think i have some got something wrong with it as the wheels catch the sleepers can these be rectified or is it the track and does this mean i have to get diffrent track the coaches are ok ?

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OK - there should be a set of rubber traction tyres on the rear driving wheels. You can see them in this photo:

 

042.jpg

 

If the tyres are missing, you will need to replace them. I'm hoping someone can suggest a supplier because I can't think of one off the top of my head.

 

Apart from that, the wheels should be fine on Code 75 track but if you are worrid, go for Code 100.

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Traction tyre supplier http://www.Hornby-railway-trains.co.uk/index.html or http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Peters-Spares-Model-Railways-Ltd?_rdc=1 or http://www.newmodellersshop.co.uk/hornby_spares_wheels_and_tyres.htm or http://www.modelrailshop.co.uk/product/10818/Traction_Tyres_per_pair

 

However be aware there are many different tyres and you need the Hornby spares code for the particular one - first find the service sheet for that loco.

 

It can be an easy - but interesting job replacing them.

Edited by Kenton
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  • 2 months later...

Sorry for thread necromancy. However I'm just getting back into railway modelling, only this time in N scale. I was looking at this in the few copies of BRM that I have downloaded on the ipad (I habe sence subscribed to the mag!)

 

 I have a 4ft by 1ft board, and Im really struggling to find a track plan I like as much as this one.. I will be adding a fiddle yard on a seperate section.

 

post-22955-0-81227700-1401908435_thumb.jpg

 

I have attemped it using set track, and well my locos fail on the fogs..kinda knew that was going to happen. Going to rip it up and use SL-E395/6's

 

Back to the drawing board..

 

Cheers

 

Kain

Edited by Solaaris
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Before condeming the track - make sure all the wheels and track are sparkling clean. Also, that the points are perfectly flat. This might not sure everything but it might help.

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  • 1 month later...

Regarding Solaaris' layout above, in n gauge there is room for enough of approaching track to be modeled, so when shunting the sidings

 you can see the shunting loco operating to and fro. In the 00 4mm version the shunter will keep disappearing under the bridge going off

scene behind the fiddle yard wall.

 

I seem to remember Cyril Freezer discussing this in one of his layout plan articles and putting in another baseboard between the station throat

and fiddle yard to show more running line approaching the station.This would make the shunting visible and enabling some more country side

to be modeled.

 

I suppose though that it depends how much space you have available to put the layout in?

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