PhilEakins Posted September 10, 2014 Share Posted September 10, 2014 Both WH Smiths and Martins here in Swanage appear not to have the screws attached - and (having bought two) can confirm that the parts are metal in both. Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ralfmouf Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Hi, Now I know its metal im interested in the whole kit as being no 43 in the subscriber list was initially put off after seeing plastic looking parts & hearing from what now are not reliable sources that it isn't.. Right im off to WHS tomorrow to buy 2 or maybe 3 of them as spares even though it will be posted from the subscription to me later. As regards the small screws iv'e read in other forums as missing, there's a attachment to the packaging that some guys may have discarded without close examination, I must at this point also comment that if its not whitemetal some of the Tamiyas tank kits iv'e had recently have very well formed metal tank bases to them I hope this is the same casted/moulded quality ! ALF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blev Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 To be honest, this is starting to not look good. I'm a subscriber so I'm still awaiting delivery on parts 2 and 3 but from the news on here, I'm losing faith. First off, there's the lacquer on the brass parts which will need removal. Now on big bits like the cab or chassis, that's entirely feasible - relatively easy to soak and scrub - but get down to some of the smaller parts and we could be talking damage. On to the bodywork and I would be very happy with plastic - the FS boiler was a great piece of modelling - or even ordinary whitemetal would be acceptable if disappointing but if it turns out to be lumps of mazak, and painted at that, then I'm bordering on cancellation I'm afraid. So, a bit of patience, wait for the parcels and re-assess in a couple of months. B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Not looking forward to cutting the slot for the front coupling through 1/4" of zamak. I'll be buying a couple of spare noses.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 11, 2014 Now come on folks! The quality of the castings is very good Mazak or not. A quick wipe with Nitromors will remove the over thick paint.The soft white metal lamp irons are totally inappropriate for a working model , but they are easily fabricated out of scrap brass. Using very fine abrasive blocks sold at B&Q will deal with the lacquer coating, small parts you can scrape with a small screw driver. Motivation and determination is all that's needed........... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
61650gtfc Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 I agree rosspop it is not the end of the world. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blev Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 The quality of the castings is very good Mazak or not. The quality of the castings is not an issue, the use of mazak is. Mazak is a fundamentally unstable material which depends, for example, on the use of very pure zinc in the alloying process. The slightest defect in the mazak manufacture means that at some stage between 2 and 25 years, that beautiful A4 bodywork is going to turn into a white, powdery mess. B Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 11, 2014 Ok Show me pics of white powdery Mazak models in the last ten years then ......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 (edited) Ok Show me pics of white powdery Mazak models in the last ten years then ......... The footplate casting on my Flying Scotsman seems OK so far after six and a half years. Edited September 11, 2014 by Guest Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 11, 2014 Anybody's pics will do .......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Steve Purves Posted September 11, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 11, 2014 Anybody's pics will do .......... try typing MAZAK into the search box in the top right... Bachmann N Class, Heljan class 47 Hornby class 31 and Merchant Navy and so on... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 11, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 11, 2014 Thanks for that Steve, I have read most of the entries, and yes there have been Mazak mix problems on and off since the 1930's apparently. However, our best loved manufacturers still use it and I have examples of Mazak from the 1950's that remains robust. The model press as far as I am aware have never taken issue on the transient problem, so I guess we have to take a chance on The Mallard, assuming it is Mazak I'm planning of getting two Mallard bodies in case of problems before two years are up, bearing in mind at 130 partworks issues, it will take more than two years to finish the collection and then I will complain to Hatchette. If Mazak deterioration occurs at 25 years, it won't matter to me as I will have become a white powdery substance myself by then..... Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 New member and this will be my first attempt at modeling, not sure if this is the correct thread for this if not please redirect me. I intend to build the model as the instructions unless I'm convinced that another method of assembly is better. After reading about members attempts of stripping the coatings off the brass cab Im thinking super glue will be my best bet, so which glue should I use , is one make better than another? Any help appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Hi I have used most makes of cyno in my work, some good and some bad..I would recommend that you try one of the ZAP range. Go for the medium thickness for most jobs, it's also worth having a thin variant for some small detail parts. You'll find ZAP at reasonable prices on eBay.... Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fish Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Thanks for that Pete, medium and thin ordered. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Well here we go again, I have now parts 1/2 and I also didn't get the screws,Part1- I soaked my brass in "acetone" for an hour or so no good. not sure yet if I'm going the distance on this one, the F.S.,was a challenge (remade a lot of the white metal to brass) will wait and see what No3 entails. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Griffin Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 where abouts on the packet for issue 2 are the screws supposed to be? ive looked all over and convinced mine are missing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Dan Hatchette are aware of the problem with the missing screws, i suspect they will ship them with a later issue. Regarding removing the lacquer I found paint remover worked very well, I used B&Q own brand Diall varnish/paint remover, caused no damage or discoloration to the cab parts. I will use the same product for removing the paint off the body sections as it's far too heavy a coat, only to be expected from mass spraying of parts. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Well here we go again, I have now parts 1/2 and I also didn't get the screws,Part1- I soaked my brass in "acetone" for an hour or so no good. not sure yet if I'm going the distance on this one, the F.S.,was a challenge (remade a lot of the white metal to brass) will wait and see what No3 entails. Someone else has mentioned using sand paper to scrape it off Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vicar47 Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 I emailed Hachette this morning about the missing screws. Thye replied in a very short time as follows Thank you for your email, kindly be advised that the srews will be supplied in issue 3 Please do not hesitate to contact us should you require further assistance. Yours sincerely, Florence Kouveld Customer Care Sounds fair enough to me. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 12, 2014 Folks , I've been playing with this stuff today.......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 12, 2014 Just look at all those lovely ' wibbets'.......... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 12, 2014 A quick burnish with a fibre brush.........itch...itch...scratch...scratch......... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
61650gtfc Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 you made that look far too easy. do you just paint the polycell stuff on and wait for the paint to bubble and scrub or is there more to it? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted September 12, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 12, 2014 Yes, painted on and left to bubble up for 20- 30 mins, then before washing off in water,scrub parts with an old tooth brush.....then a final scrub in a bucket of water.............simples! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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