Horsetan Posted November 12, 2014 Share Posted November 12, 2014 Hmm, someone's given up already.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted November 13, 2014 Share Posted November 13, 2014 jmg123-If you have soldered or glued the said parts,file off the heads of the screws.-Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamuck99 Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Have you tried using a different browser or logging out and in again to see if its something else causing the error? I'm at my wits end with this. I've tried two different browsers, four or five computers and two facebook accounts. I could really do with seeing how other builders are getting on. If any of the group owners see this could I please ask if you could add my facebook accounts : jamesmackie172@btinternet.com and jamuck99@yahoo.co.uk I found the James Bond DB5 facbook group extremely helpful a few years ago. Many thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted November 19, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 19, 2014 Look what arrived this morning.......... No white metal for this beauty....A very nice quality Mazak casting... I do hope we don`t get too many whitye metal parts particularly if they are as poor as the lamp irons. a good thickness to the overlays so should be a very strong chassis. I ,of course, particularly liked this fact,.............. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 that looks good John...i'm looking forward to receiving mine...... Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted November 19, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 19, 2014 Hi Pete, You won`t be disappointed. As I`m using sprung hornblocks I had to research a narrower gearbox and am waiting the arrival of an ABC 27:1 G/B with Maxon motor which is about 15squids mnore than the Hatchette offering. Do I need to worry about the quality of wheels with this project Pete ?? John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 difficult to say until we see them John...i suspect they will follow the already good standards set but will wait to see what we get....iirc the wheels for FS were good but the axles had issues...I don't have any personal experience as i didn't subscribe to that model...slaters are generally very good though Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Rosspop-Received part 12 today and the water gauges are "not fit for purpose" (whitemetal" nothing like that shown in the magazine,tried e-mailing Hatchette but wasn't successful==OUCH?--Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted November 20, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2014 Hi Blue Peter, Will contacting Hatchette make them change tack. ????? Any chance of a picture of offending parts ??? I,m hoping they can be salvaged by fettling polishing etc and then painted with Citadel metallic paint which can be buffed and polished. !!!??? Here's Hoping ......... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
modelpara Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 I'm at my wits end with this. I've tried two different browsers, four or five computers and two facebook accounts. I could really do with seeing how other builders are getting on. If any of the group owners see this could I please ask if you could add my facebook accounts : jamesmackie172@btinternet.com and jamuck99@yahoo.co.uk I found the James Bond DB5 facbook group extremely helpful a few years ago. Many thanks Friend request sent, once you accept that I will add you to the group Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamuck99 Posted November 20, 2014 Share Posted November 20, 2014 Friend request sent, once you accept that I will add you to the group Many thanks - hope it works Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Steve Purves Posted November 21, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 21, 2014 Anybody else not building theirs yet, I'm collecting bits before starting mine Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold BlueLightning Posted November 21, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2014 Anybody else not building theirs yet, I'm collecting bits before starting mine Me. I do that with most partworks that I get Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted November 21, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 21, 2014 I always start loco kits with the chassis first, so need more chassis parts yet especially the wheels. Also waiting for motor /gearbox Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted November 21, 2014 Share Posted November 21, 2014 Here's the photo, like I said ,there was too much "flash" at where the handles were.Arrrrggghhhh!!-----Rob Seems photo's are too big,will try later. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Port Line Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Anybody else not building theirs yet, I'm collecting bits before starting mine I'm also taking this approach, and wouldn't start building the chassis before we have all the driving wheels supplied. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Port Line Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 difficult to say until we see them John...i suspect they will follow the already good standards set but will wait to see what we get....iirc the wheels for FS were good but the axles had issues...I don't have any personal experience as i didn't subscribe to that model...slaters are generally very good though Pete Re the FS axles, where the Hachette ones resulted in wobbly wheels, this was solved by fitting Slater's axles instead. I think this is covered on the FS build posted elsewhere on RMweb Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted November 23, 2014 Share Posted November 23, 2014 Re FS axles, After the poor fitting,I made up dummy ones at 3/16" Iv'e tried them on the bushes of the A4 and they'll need reamered out to size,but will wait till they arrive.___Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 hmmm.. i did post a responce but it seems to have disappeared..lol basically I was saying that the Mallard bushes are fine...they have a little burr around the edges that soon disappears once you push the axle through.... Here's a picture of my build to date....I used the metalsmiths axle alignment tool for checking that the bushes were correct and also that the chassis was square....this was proved but fitting a set of Premier Components A3/4 rods....all looking very good so far...hope to fit the other chassis parts later today, just need to check the mudguards against full size as they look a little wide to me...also hope to get the chassis cleaned up as this hasn't been done yet. Picture of chassis with alignment tools fitted to check that the kit has the correct axle spacing for using Premier rods....all fits very nicely. Regards Pete 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted November 24, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2014 Hi Pete Did you tin the laminates and then solder together ? I ' m pondering about using solder paste and a gas pen torch. I!m very low tech with soldering. When I moved up to 7mm ,I forked out on a digital soldeRing station from Hobby Holidays which lasted 13months, so I reverted back to Antex soldering irons 15W, 40W, 80W and 100W just in case just for a bit of belt an braces......... John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 Hi John no I didn't tin the laminates...my reasoning being that this may distort things by some of the tinning possibly by not heating up properly. My method was to brush on some bakers fluid between the laminate edging, assemble using the bushes to ensure the parts are aligned and then run solder along the edges, checking along the way that all is lined up nicely. This would seal the joints and also allow some solder to flow between the laminates where it got hot enough, thus no lumps and bumps...finishing with a file over the edge to tidy things up.End result is the frames look one piece along the top...bottom has various discrepancies which may be there for a reason. Certainly the discrepancy around the bogie wheel arch is there for the mudguard to sit in so I won't do anything about them until I know if something is supposed to fit there...it may be that they are for fitting spring hangers and lower stays...they certainly look like they are part of the design...if so I'll be even more impressed with this kit. The frames seem very strong and are looking the part...I have the advantage of being able to compare them with the 5" gauge A1 (4472) that I'm also building as it's frames are at a similar stage...all is looking very good so far... Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted November 24, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2014 Bakers Fluid !!!!! Hav,nt used that since 1970's...... Sounds a good method though.... I,m encouraged by what you have said Pete ,about the parts so far, especially as my choice of motor/gearbox arrived today from ABC. The motor / box offered with this project is adequate for running up and down an end to end layout with 2 - 3 free running coaches. I think when I last looked the price was £95 or £ 89 if the tokens are collected,which I didn't feel was value for money for a Mashima set up. Having said that nearly every one of my GWR locos has the same Mashima plus fold up gearbox at £ 40 and if set up well are very good performers. This beastly has a 6 w motor and 27.1 ratio gearbox that will fit between my sprung horn blocks and was £110. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenglade Posted November 24, 2014 Share Posted November 24, 2014 That certainly looks up to the Job John..I haven't decided on my set up yet...same goes for chassis suspension, I may do a simple semi rigid job or even leave rigid.....we shall see....i do have a set of Martin Finney horns/blocks that I could use... I did get them out to have a look but still undecided...they are primarily destined for Martin's kit of Gresley's A1 which has been sitting under my bench for a few years along with the Premier components sets and a full set of Slater's wheels.. Still they are handy items to check against the Mallard kit as she progresses....btw if you do use a blow torch be very careful...as a rule in the larger gauges any heating of the main frames is to be avoided at all costs....even 1/8th thick steel frame plates which I'm currently working with will warp very easily when heated...better safe than sorry. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted November 24, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 24, 2014 As you probably know ,it is'nt essential to compensate 7mm stock. It's more an affliction for me from 30 years in P4...... . I think your sweating the edges together is the way to go , with Carrs Green label flux as I hav'nt seen BF on the shelves for quite a while..... John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Peter Posted November 29, 2014 Share Posted November 29, 2014 Part 12--The water gauges in white metal that I got were totally crap,Having to reconstruct them--(photo will follow)--Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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