Mulgabill Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Three 16t minerals waiting to be taken to the paint shop! 16T 07.jpg Ooops one of those bodies is on the wrong way round! Well you're going to have to educate me some more, for me to know which. But they still look stunning. TONY Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 Well you're going to have to educate me some more, for me to know which. But they still look stunning. TONY The door should be on the left when you are looking at the side with the brakes. Situation now corrected! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Looking good, John. I've bought a couple of Rumney chassis to try out, not having done any wagons before, although I'm planning to use Bachmann RTR bodies for mine. It looks as though you've used Exactoscale wheel sets. If so, are they parallel or pin-point axles? Did you need spacing washers behind the bearings to get the right end float? Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 (edited) .....looks as though you've used Exactoscale wheel sets. If so, are they parallel or pin-point axles? ..... Pinpoints on the ones I bought, but I had some early samples that were parallel. They are tiny. Axles are only about 1.5mm dia. anyway. Edited June 7, 2017 by Horsetan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 Looking good, John. I've bought a couple of Rumney chassis to try out, not having done any wagons before, although I'm planning to use Bachmann RTR bodies for mine. It looks as though you've used Exactoscale wheel sets. If so, are they parallel or pin-point axles? Did you need spacing washers behind the bearings to get the right end float? Dave. If you use Exactoscale pinpoint axles and their bearings, you won't need any washers. This is because there is an inherent fault with the bearings in that the coning does not actually go to a point so they are too shallow. I have had lots of 'discussions' with the original suppliers on the subject, who accepted that they are not what they should be but weren't going to do anything about it. Another problem with the Exactoscale wheels that I have, is that, when set to the correct back to back, one wheel does not sit up against the plastic shoulder of the axle. Again, I got no sympathy from them! Rant over. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 ......Another problem with the Exactoscale wheels that I have, is that, when set to the correct back to back, one wheel does not sit up against the plastic shoulder of the axle. .... I can top that: if you use the S4 back-to-back (17.87), neither wheel sits against the axle plastic sleeve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted June 7, 2017 Author Share Posted June 7, 2017 I can top that: if you use the S4 back-to-back (17.87), neither wheel sits against the axle plastic sleeve. ...... but at least they will be symmetrical on the axle! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 ...... but at least they will be symmetrical on the axle! I found it quite difficult to get it spot-on symmetrical, needing two different gauges to be sure. And even then, I'm still not totally sure! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike G Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Can I send you mine to paint as well.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
A4CML Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 Hi John, I've been following this thread with interest and admiration for the quality of modelling so much so I've been encouraged to dig out a few of my own older 16t models and try a bit of weathering etc. These are a good few years old now and of various vintages. You were talking about the missing lip at the bottom of the Airfix body and I'm attaching a few pictures including a Trix body I added to an etched Chivers chassis (on the right) which appears to have this lip moulded on. The original chassis was ditched as it was quite crude although it had metal wheels and would roll for miles! I always thought the Trix body was a little more refined than the Airfix but was not without it's problems (see second picture) and was probably why I decided to re-chassis it. I think finding more bodies would be like finding hens teeth! The wagon on the left is an ERG kit mounted on a Parkside chassis I think. Looks like the brake gear needs repairing. As I said the Trix body isn't perfect as you can see with the end on picture where it looks like the end door is quite narrow compared to the Airfix. The overall body dimensions look to be exactly the same though. ERG left, Trix middle and Aifix right. I suppose one could graft another end on but I suspect it will stay as it is and only be viewed side on in a train! There are a few other problems with the various models of my own doing but my excuse is I was young! Now where are those other Airfix kits ..... Regards, Chris 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted June 7, 2017 Share Posted June 7, 2017 The door should be on the left when you are looking at the side with the brakes. Situation now corrected! 16T 07.jpg This doesn't apply to the re-bodied ones, where it's best checking photos for individual wagons. The rounded edge to the bottom of the sides on the re-bodies was an attempt to reduce the rusting-through of the body at this point- I remember examples that had brought scrap into BSC Landore, where the body and chassis parted company when they encountered the electro-magnet on the crane in the scrap bay. When badly rusted ones were used on 'duff' from the anthracite pits around Llanelli, NCB staff would stuff straw into the more obvious holes to reduce the amount lost during the journey to Swansea Docks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 ...... but at least they will be symmetrical on the axle! I wish. I've persevered with exactoscale wheels since their introduction because of their looks but sometimes think I must be barmy because of the hassle. The first batch I bought (EM gauge) all of the tyres were loose on the rims. Credit to the original owner of Wizard models, I was fully refunded for all the wheels without question. It's been a couple of years since I bought my last batch of 3 holes with axles (P4) but still find a good few tyres not parallel on their centres and despite using the exactoscale S4 B to B, I've found if the wheel wobbles after the first assembly attempt there's no way it can be trued up. I had one tyre wobble so badly when I pushed the centre out a "rim" of swarf fell out. See attached pic. I wondered if it was my assembly technique that was causing the problems but over the years have spoke to a number of modellers that have had identical experiences. Could be the wheels may be be available for not much longer as the new owner of Exactoscale told me he needs good sales of track components to finance the stocking of other components in the range? P Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horsetan Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 .....sometimes think I must be barmy because of the hassle. .... Over-engineered, or too-clever-by-half? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Re6/6 Posted June 8, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) We've standardized on Black Beetles for all P4 14mm needs. They have proved to be 'benign and true' for us over the years. The latest production is in stainless which should keep dirtying up to a minimum, although we haven't tried them in service yet. BBs have worked particularly well when converting the Hby HALs and BILs. Although maybe twice the price of the other 'popular' P4 wheels in our view they're well worth the extra for the reliability. It would be very useful if 'Steam Era Models' in Oz could provide 12mm with three holes. That would fill a big gap in reliable P4 wagon wheels. They do do 12mm 12 spoke in '00/H0' for their BB motor bogies. I may be wrong, but l have always had the impression that they had a 'softer' curvature between flange and tread, presumably with correct coning which has often allowed stock fitted with them to pass over trackwork that might not be as good as it should, whereas 'others' have failed! Some spoked and 3-hole wagon wheels would be a godsend! http://steameramodels.com/wheels.htm http://steameramodels.com/bbeetle.htm Edited June 8, 2017 by Re6/6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 The latest production is in stainless which should keep dirtying up to a minimum, although we haven't tried them in service yet. BBs have worked particularly well when converting the Hby HALs and BILs. Pretty nifty for converting the Hornby coupling rod Drive Sentinel to P4/S4 also. I dropped a bit of a gooley with my template for drilling the stress relief holes but other than that all was ok. There's also no need to thin the wheels as with the chain drive version as the frames are wider. Apologies to John for dragging the topic sideways. P 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Porcy Mane Posted June 8, 2017 Share Posted June 8, 2017 (edited) Over-engineered, or too-clever-by-half? Whatever but bl**dy expensive for poor quality control taking into account the percentage failure rate. A little bit like the stereotypic image of a bimbo secretary. Fantastic to look at but wobbles a lot. P Edited June 8, 2017 by Porcy Mane 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted June 8, 2017 Author Share Posted June 8, 2017 Whatever but bl**dy expensive for poor quality control taking into account the percentage failure rate. A little bit like the stereotypic image of a bimbo secretary. Fantastic to look at but wobbles a lot. P I couldn't have put it better myself, given a choice, I think I'd rather have the bimbo secretary! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted June 10, 2017 Author Share Posted June 10, 2017 (edited) If any one is interested, I have just updated the gallery for Worseter for the first time in seven years! http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/album/604-worseter/ Edited June 10, 2017 by Killybegs 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted June 11, 2017 Author Share Posted June 11, 2017 In preparation for painting the 16t minerals, I have made myself a painting stick. This can be used for both chassis and bodies as it utilises the holes through which the two are bolted together. The chassis will have to come off again to be cleaned up before I attack them with the airbrush. I am going to try the technique of using Halfords primer in my airbrush but I think I will try it out on something else first! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted June 13, 2017 Author Share Posted June 13, 2017 In the end, I didn't use the air brush to put on the primer but used my usual technique of quick light passes straight from the can. When I came to put on the top coat today, my compressor threw a wobbler and wouldn't produce more than 10psi. I used a slightly thinner mix than usual and the paint went on fine, albeit with a lot of thin coats. I then stripped down the valve that controls the final pressure to the airbrush and put it all back together and now it's working fine. Maintenance is a wonderful cure. With a bit of luck it will be another 25 years before it packs up again, by which time it probably won't concern me! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted June 28, 2017 Author Share Posted June 28, 2017 Haven't had much time to work on the minerals, but they are now ready for weathering. 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCT Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Haven't had much time to work on the minerals, but they are now ready for weathering. 16T 08.jpg Very fine indeed. Perhaps I missed it somewhere, but... what shade of grey paint did you use ? Alasdair Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) Very fine indeed. Perhaps I missed it somewhere, but... what shade of grey paint did you use ? Alasdair Precision BR Freight Wagon Grey with a bit of white added to the mix. Edited June 29, 2017 by Killybegs 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted July 2, 2017 Author Share Posted July 2, 2017 The wagons have now been weathered and loaded with loco coal, not that you can see it! 17 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted July 19, 2017 Author Share Posted July 19, 2017 The dust sheet for the scenic part of the layout is now up and running. I tried posting with attachments but I got a bad gateway message so I am now trying without the pics! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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