7mm King Street Goods

[Barnaby]

Aye well I still had my jimmy jams on, well I sleep in a T-shirt and shorts at just on 8am when the door went it was Hermes with a gift box from Intentio yippeeeee.

 

I quickly opened it up and spread out the contents.

Just need to work out what goes where, I think a check on the forums is called for.

Edited June 15, 2017 by Barnaby

[Barnaby]

Ok all is good a short email from Phil [Mr Intentio himself] put me right.   I'll have to get me a jig-saw mat so I can roll up the dry assembling to save starting over each time.  

 

Best

[Barnaby]

What's happening just now -- not much, a bit of every thing if I'm honest.

 

A little assembly of the Indentio bits but having difficulty aligning the door hinges into the space provided, it seems too big.  Looking in Intentio gallery and at Steve Fay's post I can't fit the door in the same?  When set my top hinge as in Steve's photo my door sits 2 brick courses below and beyond the bottom edge.

I need to look into this.

 

Started laminating of plastic sheet onto ply carcass for some buildings but now out of glue. 

Which glue do you all use?  I used a product that is solvent free called THIXOFIX but it looks like it is now longer produced. 

Is Evo-stick solvent free the next best option.

One advantage of the Thickofix was that if applied lightly it would allow you to slide it into place before applying pressure to lock it down, will evo solvent free do this too?  Also the Thixofix allowed you to paint it on which I find very useful.

 

Also cut out the back scene board and some long lengths for wall pieces in front of this, yet.to be fully laminated with some Wills rough stone "00" which looks ok to my eye for 0 gauge. 

I'll be using some of their Asbestos sheets and Granite sets which also look ok.

 

Byz for now.

 

EDIT  seems thixofix does still exist and weirdly is produced just down the road from me, apparently they bought out Dunlop who were the originators of the product 13 years ago,. 

Even better they are having a search about for some samples as they only have 5Ltr plastic containers at the site shop and I only want 0.5Ltr max.

Edited July 14, 2017 by Barnaby

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Barnaby,

 

Not sure if its good for your current needs, but FWIW, I find solvent-free UHU very good as a GP glue and impact adhesive AND.....it doesnt string!

 

Hope that may help.

 

ATVB

 

CME

Edited July 14, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Barnaby]

Dun dun dooo - Just done a dry build of the arched door way and now under stand why a new doorway was included with the missing spacer pieces Intentio sent me.  This when used allows all to fit well, so onward with the build.

 

Best

[wessy]

What's happening just now -- not much, a bit of every thing if I'm honest.

 

A little assembly of the Indentio bits but having difficulty aligning the door hinges into the space provided, it seems too big.  Looking in Intentio gallery and at Steve Fay's post I can't fit the door in the same?  When set my top hinge as in Steve's photo my door sits 2 brick courses below and beyond the bottom edge.

I need to look into this.

 

Started laminating of plastic sheet onto ply carcass for some buildings but now out of glue. 

Which glue do you all use?  I used a product that is solvent free called THIXOFIX but it looks like it is now longer produced. 

Is Evo-stick solvent free the next best option.

One advantage of the Thickofix was that if applied lightly it would allow you to slide it into place before applying pressure to lock it down, will evo solvent free do this too?  Also the Thixofix allowed you to paint it on which I find very useful.

 

Also cut out the back scene board and some long lengths for wall pieces in front of this, yet.to be fully laminated with some Wills rough stone "00" which looks ok to my eye for 0 gauge. 

I'll be using some of their Asbestos sheets and Granite sets which also look ok.

 

Byz for now.

 

EDIT  seems thixofix does still exist and weirdly is produced just down the road from me, apparently they bought out Dunlop who were the originators of the product 13 years ago,. 

Even better they are having a search about for some samples as they only have 5Ltr plastic containers at the site shop and I only want 0.5Ltr max.

 

I have just found this on eBay. It looks like a versatile glue. I remember talking to the late George Norton when he was demonstrating loco building (and whose kits are largely now sold by London Road Models). He used Thixofix to hold 4mm plastic sprung horn blocks when building chassis.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ALPHA-THIXOFIX-DUNLOP-CONTACT-ADHESIVE-40ML-250ML-500ML-1L-2-5L-5LITRE-CHOOSE-/172358940041

[Barnaby]

Thanks Wessy that drills down to the manufacturer who is local to me on whom I'm waiting for a call back on Monday coming.

 

Best

Edited July 15, 2017 by Barnaby

[Barnaby]

Changing track completely.

 

After a telephone call earlier today with Richard Hollingworth of Parkside Dundas who I have been chatting to over the last few weeks about a modelling need I have, he offered to assist?

 

 This is for my new micro layout project “A layout with no name” which has a need for a Shunting Sequencer.  Because the new layout will be similar to Inglenook / Timesaver layouts I want to have some variable interest which I intend to do via wagon index cards.

I’m hoping this will create variety of interest both for the operator and any watching persons. 

 

What has this got to do with Richard?

 

Well, I was going to take photos of my stock but looking at their kit boxes of which I have 10 I was taken with the box top photo and how I could fit that into my shunting sequencer.

Basically I am going to use index cards with a photo stuck on it and some details about the move required and the wagon itself.

I would mix up the index cards then draw off a set number of cards and use these to control the loco movements.

 

I called Richard to see if he had any spare photos I could purchase and he has kindly offered to send me his stock photos which I will use to make up my index control cards.

 

Seems like as he had just completed the selling of the company to PECO he was clearing out his office and I had called at the right time.

 

Glad to hear that PECO will continue the kits but the NG bits will stay with Andrew Hastie.

 

Lucky me, another task simplified.

 

Big thanks to Richard.

 

 

Best

Edited July 15, 2017 by Barnaby

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Sounds great Barnaby.

 

Im glad to hear that PSD have found a buyer-theyre a great company and I love their products and dealing with them, all good things come to an end though. I hope Peco will allow us to still buy spare parts and be as approachable as PSD so as to keep PSD rolling stock rolling.

 

As modellers of 7mm we owe a great debt of gratitude to PSD, other scales & gauges do too.

 

Atvb,

 

CME

Edited July 15, 2017 by CME and Bottlewasher

[Barnaby]

Striving to increase my build hours I've decided that my JLTRT class 20 which has languished on my hobby room shelf must get into the "build factory".
However as my hobby hours are already taken I'm putting feelers out looking to have it built for me. Looking again at the kit the main chassis looks like a quick build but the bag of cast detail bits is humongous and looks like it will take forever to fit them.

I'm hoping I get a response over the next few days and away we'll go.

In the mean time I finishing as many of my started but not finished projects the list is quite long.

Best

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Hi Barnaby,

 

I know the feeling!

 

I think the great thing about our hobby, is that, at times, we can all 'employ' someone to build for us, even if some of us are on a tight budget. Eg. My two CCT represent excellent VFM.

 

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

 

ATVB

 

CME

[BrushType4]

Striving to increase my build hours I've decided that my JLTRT class 20 which has languished on my hobby room shelf must get into the "build factory".

However as my hobby hours are already taken I'm putting feelers out looking to have it built for me. Looking again at the kit the main chassis looks like a quick build but the bag of cast detail bits is humongous and looks like it will take forever to fit them.

 

I'm hoping I get a response over the next few days and away we'll go.

In the mean time I finishing as many of my started but not finished projects the list is quite long.

 

Best

 

I recommend Heather Kavanagh to build your class 20. 

[Barnaby]

Thanks gents.

Phil I spoke to Heather as my first choice, I could go on the build list but not until 2019.  I've contacted 3 more and they are also full 'till end 2018.

 

That's the trouble if they are good they seem to all have full bookings.

 

I'm still awaiting a couple more replies of which I have high hopes, both are very high standard builders and one has recently retired so he may be able to build a bit sooner.

 

Regards

 

EDIT: Good news I now have a loco builder whooo hoo.

Edited August 22, 2017 by Barnaby

[Barnaby]

I'm presently taking down my #2 8x6 shed to be ready for its replacement. I removed 1/2 of the work surfaces today to keep for the new one. Most of the inside stuff has been stored elsewhere except for this heavy lump which I can just about lift. 

It has embossed on the front the following wording,  N^o1 The Timbrell & Wright Machine, see photo following. 

 

Close up of the wording.

 

 

I think they were made in Birmingham this one in about 1930;s but has any one got any info on it?

 

Best

Edited August 22, 2017 by Barnaby

[daifly]

Towards the bottom of this page

Dave

[Barnaby]

Got my Class 20 Diesel down off my shelf to check it's complete ready to build as a Disc Headcode version paint job still to be decided.

JLTRT Class 20 diesel kit x 1                    check

Gearbox GB14 with Mashima motor x 1     check [only motorising one bogie]

Complete wheel sets with axles x 4           check

 

All good to go.

 

Best

 

Edit Mashima spelling.

Edited August 24, 2017 by Barnaby

[Railwaymaniac]

Hi Barnaby

 

Ohhhh - good! A JLTRT Class 20 build! - *this* is going to be interesting.  

 

I am about half-a-paragraph ahead of you in building exactly this kit, I've been giving my kit a good coat of looking-at and thinking-at for about a month now, so I haven't got very far yet.

 

Two things to start with, if I may.

1) make sure that in your kit the bogie inners that have been supplied are the right ones for that kind of motor/gearbox combo - the ones in my kit were for the MM1 motor/worm type where the motor bolts directly onto the bogie inner. 

When I contacted JLTRT about this, Laurie was happy to send me some of the other type, the ones with a big square hole in them, provided that I returned the ones that I have. However..

2) During the same conversation he said 'Make sure you get the GB14S as there isn't really room in there for the standard GB14. I have no proof of this, and would really love to get your feedback please?

 

regards

 

Ian

[Barnaby]

Ahhhh! Hello Ian now that's interesting.

 

I have been trying to work out what Gbox I have as it only says GB14 with no L or S ID after? However the bogies do have big holes in them but I'm sure I read somewhere that some "fettling" may need to be done to fit the GBox.

I could have read it on Brian Daniels page on here where he gives a very good write up on his diesel builds.  Lots of photos and details on his JLTRT class 22 which is a very similar build. 

 

I'm trying to bring back to life an old kit built class 22 not JLTRT to life and was looking for info on the forums.   Laurie of JLTRT has said he would sell me a pair of his bogies if I fail to sort these bogies out.

 

If I find any hard information I'll post back to here..

 

Best

 

PS:  In case you missed it I'm going to have it built for me but it may well appear on here on the builders page as it goes along.  Build start end of year beginning of next subject to his other build demands.

[CME and Bottlewasher]

Let us have photos and Links when both builds start please. Good luck with it all!

[Barnaby]

Class 20 JLTRT.

After Ian's post about the correct motor Gbox I contacted laurie who said if the motor measured 25mm it was the Small one and if it was 33mm it was the Long one. 

Sods law mine is 33mm but no worries as I rang David at Slater's who said to send it back to him and he'd swap with a Small one, thank you David.

 

So it's manufacture a small box to ship it back with proof of receipt plus a cheque for return postage.  

 

Class 22 not a JLTRT

Fettling with the bogies trying to get a good enough fit before attaching to the main body.

I had to use my dremel with a slitting disc to trim up the drive chassis and as always need was the mother of invention as I had to clamp the dremel into my sander base so as to have it rock steady. I then free-handed the brass chassis to cut out the offending pieces. 

Some photos later..............

[Railwaymaniac]

Hi again Barnaby

 

I hope that my comments helped, and I'm glad you managed to get the motor sorted out.  As you may gather, my Class 20 is my first direct experience with JLTRT and I've been giving it a great deal of planning and checking before doing any actual building...

 

If your builder starts putting photos up on this website, could you please put a link to it on here?

 

ATB

 

Ian

[Barnaby]

Doing the fettle....

 

Had to use a clamp to hold the dremel still while I presented the bogie for trimming.

 

even though it was on the sander plate it still was bit awkward/finger chopping dangerous so gone looking online for a purpose made jig tool for it. 

 

Regards

[Barnaby]

While test running the bogie pairs I noticed that both motors had some of their "motor mounting screws" missing.

Is it possible to obtain a selection of these screws?  Are they a standard size or are they different as per motor.

 

Using google I found a look up diagram showing a Mashima motor diagram which shows the screws to be either M2 or M1.4, there may be other sizes but a range of Mashima motors seems to be these two. 

 

Can someone advise who I should contact to get some preferably in small quantities say 10 per packet or similar.

A job for the old nail varnish to secure once the meshing has been done.

 

Mmmmmmnnnnnn now what colour............ how about Friday night red

 

 

In an earlier post I made REF of  the need for a plate come jig to hold the Dremel tool while I use it to cut off/trim items.

Amazon & B&Q have a Dremel tool multi vise jig, but for now I'll save my pennies and keep using a squeeze clamp to hold everything.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-2500-01-Multi-Vise/dp/B000P4W3LU

 

Best

[peter220950]

As far as I recall they are M2 bolts, and readilly available on eBay if you put M2 bolt into the search engines, I just found 10 for about £1.39 posted.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M1-6-M2-M2-5-POZI-PAN-MACHINE-SCREWS-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-POSIDRIVE-BOLTS-/361516262481?var=&hash=item542c0c6451:m:mVCuS7fARSgNf_YxQ2bXXwA

 

The only thing to be careful of is the length, and it's important to measure your existing ones, as too long a bolt will push into the works and mess things up on the commutator.

 

Peter

[Barnaby]

Thanks Peter I'll do a search later and I might even ask at the GOG show in Telford tomorrow too. 

 

Regards