Jump to content
Users will currently see a stripped down version of the site until an advertising issue is fixed. If you are seeing any suspect adverts please go to the bottom of the page and click on Themes and select IPS Default. ×
RMweb
 

The Official Rapido APT-E Thread


rapidotrains

Recommended Posts

  • RMweb Premium

Set up the tank & relax while you read the instructions on how to connect your APT.

 

And if the APT doesn't work, blow it up with the tank...... :triniti:

 

 

 

 

 

:jester:

 

Cheers,

Mick

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

And another one lands

 

Set number 1520 DCC Sound has arrived

 

Currently sat looking at the outer box in a shall I shan`t I kind of mood

 

Na lets get it out in the open

 

Many thanks to Sandra and the team at locomotion and all those countless others involved in this project

 

Roll on the HSDT as i`ll deffo be having one of those

 

And I think the APT-P should also be a contender for a future model

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

I received mine this week. I've refrained from commenting on the model on this thread and was sort of worried that the model might not live up to the rave reviews. Having had a chance to examine it closely now I have to admit it really is superbly done. The slight discontinuity on the nose that others have noticed is there but it doesn't look anything like as noticeable in the flesh as it does in photographs. Coupling the thing up is a bit of a fiddle (at least it is the first time you do it) but once coupled up and with the modules in place any pangs of irritation at the coupling arrangement quickly evaporate. The finish is excellent, I'm no expert on the colours but they look fine to me. The interior detail within the intermediate cars sets a new standard for a UK RTR model. The glazing is clear which shows this off, aided by interior lighting. The glazing should have a degree of tint and this is perhaps my only real whinge about the model. The bogies are outstanding. The model is beautifully presented and packaged and really does feel special, I haven't read the accompanying book yet but it looks like it is nicely illustrated and will be an interesting read. To get such a superb model, wonderfully presented as a four car train, tooled as a one off for not much more than the SRP of the latest batch of Bachmann 2-EPBs is astonishing. This model is an out and out bargain in todays market. Well done to both Rapido and to Locomotion.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 The glazing should have a degree of tint and this is perhaps my only real whinge about the model. 

 

Not really. On the real thing TC1 has clear glass for the windows, and not tinted at all. TC2 on the other hand has a fully reflective film on all the windows, so much so that it's impossible to see through them. As Jason wanted to show the interior of TC2 (including the blinking lights....) he decided to leave the windows clear. 

 

bbX3U1.jpg

 

TC1's windows from the outside. You can see the 'passengers' clearly.

 

 

LeiefL.jpg

 

TC2 windows showing them wholly reflective. That's me on the left taking the pic with my trusty Werra V!

 

 

9VtUrh.jpg

 

TC2 taken from Hastings coach very late one evening showing that sometimes you could see inside the reflective windows.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest spet0114

Help!

 

I'm having a bit of bother with my DCC Sound fitted APT and was wondering if anyone could help diagnose the problem?.

 

My layout is DC, but with this model I was tempted to dip a toe in the DCC world. Having unpacked and assembled the model on the track, I applied some power. Not a lot happened. Internal lights came on in the two trailer cars and in PC2. The red tail lights in PC1 and the white headlights in PC2 also came on. This was irrespective of which polarity of DC I applied. There was no sound and no movement.

 

Does the fact that lights are appearing in all four cars give confidence that the inter-car connections are being made properly? Flicking through the Rapido book, it mentions that if the train has been assigned a four-numeral DCC reference, then it won't work at all on DC. Does this sound like it might have happened to mine?

 

Any thoughts?

 

Cheers
Adrian

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Help!

 

I'm having a bit of bother with my DCC Sound fitted APT and was wondering if anyone could help diagnose the problem?.

 

My layout is DC, but with this model I was tempted to dip a toe in the DCC world. Having unpacked and assembled the model on the track, I applied some power. Not a lot happened. Internal lights came on in the two trailer cars and in PC2. The red tail lights in PC1 and the white headlights in PC2 also came on. This was irrespective of which polarity of DC I applied. There was no sound and no movement.

 

Does the fact that lights are appearing in all four cars give confidence that the inter-car connections are being made properly? Flicking through the Rapido book, it mentions that if the train has been assigned a four-numeral DCC reference, then it won't work at all on DC. Does this sound like it might have happened to mine?

 

Any thoughts?

 

Cheers

Adrian

I would of thought the decoder would be at it`s default setting of 03

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest spet0114

On a DC layout you need to apply a lot of power.

Pc1 has the decoder so,will work irrespective of any other connections.

Have you tried full power

Yes, have tried full power in both directions. No joy.

 

Tried running PC1 on its own. Again no sound or movement.

 

Looks like I may have a duff one. :-(

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

At the last count 2 mins ago I had 558 of them. It could take a while to post them all.  :D

 

Could you set up a gallery here for them? I think there's a facility for that on RMweb. :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest spet0114

What DC controller are you using?

 

I've tried two - an old H&M duette and an even older Tri-ang one. Edited by spet0114
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I've tried two - an old H&M duette and an even older Tri-ang one.

 

I think there's something in the documentation that says not to use these older controllers, might be wrong though. If I get chance I'll try PC1 with my Clipper ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could you set up a gallery here for them? I think there's a facility for that on RMweb. :)

 

Dunno, maybe, but it'd take me an AGE. 

 

When I post them on here it's usually with some relevant covering text which puts them in a perspective. Just posting the whole lot would have people messaging me asking 'Where was No. 377 taken and what's that loco over on the right hand side of the shot?' etc. which could get to be a bit of a pain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re, the tinted windows on Tc2, you can buy tinted self adhesive vinyl film on ebay very cheaply, it comes in various tint's , brown, smoke grey and silver, the brown and smoke tints are very good for using on coaches or units, you can see through it also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium

Gven that it seems best to keep the APT-E coupled, perhaps there is an opportunity for Locomotion to sell a 'sort of tube with rails in' for people to keep their model in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've tried two - an old H&M duette and an even older Tri-ang one.

Probably a good idea to read the very humorous, detailed and comprehensive instruction book which will answer your question. You are trying to run a space age model with power akin to coal.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Re, the tinted windows on Tc2, you can buy tinted self adhesive vinyl film on ebay very cheaply, it comes in various tint's , brown, smoke grey and silver, the brown and smoke tints are very good for using on coaches or units, you can see through it also.

 

They're not just tinted, they're reflective................... 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think there's something in the documentation that says not to use these older controllers, might be wrong though. If I get chance I'll try PC1 with my Clipper ;)

 

Yes there is. It warns against using a DCC version with an old DC controller. The output of which can be so noisy that the decoder does not recognise that it is on DC and therefore does not respond. The peak voltage they put out can also be very high, which may cause damage. Try putting a small non-electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the controller output, and see if that helps - but don't turn the power up too high!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Then they might not have said (twice) ...

 

 

 

Of course, it doesn't, tilting is just a passenger comfort thing...

But in the model it has the effect of 'locking' the model into the curved shape and making it all but impossible for it to throw itself off the outside of the curve. Try it. Then do the same speed with a bunch of Mk1s with typical loose tension-lock couplings and you'll see what I mean. Don't ask me to pay for your smashed Mk1s, though! (CJL)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...