RMweb Premium newbryford Posted May 5, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 5, 2016 Set up the tank & relax while you read the instructions on how to connect your APT. And if the APT doesn't work, blow it up with the tank...... Cheers, Mick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgvfan Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 And another one lands Set number 1520 DCC Sound has arrived Currently sat looking at the outer box in a shall I shan`t I kind of mood Na lets get it out in the open Many thanks to Sandra and the team at locomotion and all those countless others involved in this project Roll on the HSDT as i`ll deffo be having one of those And I think the APT-P should also be a contender for a future model Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium jjb1970 Posted May 5, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 5, 2016 I received mine this week. I've refrained from commenting on the model on this thread and was sort of worried that the model might not live up to the rave reviews. Having had a chance to examine it closely now I have to admit it really is superbly done. The slight discontinuity on the nose that others have noticed is there but it doesn't look anything like as noticeable in the flesh as it does in photographs. Coupling the thing up is a bit of a fiddle (at least it is the first time you do it) but once coupled up and with the modules in place any pangs of irritation at the coupling arrangement quickly evaporate. The finish is excellent, I'm no expert on the colours but they look fine to me. The interior detail within the intermediate cars sets a new standard for a UK RTR model. The glazing is clear which shows this off, aided by interior lighting. The glazing should have a degree of tint and this is perhaps my only real whinge about the model. The bogies are outstanding. The model is beautifully presented and packaged and really does feel special, I haven't read the accompanying book yet but it looks like it is nicely illustrated and will be an interesting read. To get such a superb model, wonderfully presented as a four car train, tooled as a one off for not much more than the SRP of the latest batch of Bachmann 2-EPBs is astonishing. This model is an out and out bargain in todays market. Well done to both Rapido and to Locomotion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 The glazing should have a degree of tint and this is perhaps my only real whinge about the model. Not really. On the real thing TC1 has clear glass for the windows, and not tinted at all. TC2 on the other hand has a fully reflective film on all the windows, so much so that it's impossible to see through them. As Jason wanted to show the interior of TC2 (including the blinking lights....) he decided to leave the windows clear. TC1's windows from the outside. You can see the 'passengers' clearly. TC2 windows showing them wholly reflective. That's me on the left taking the pic with my trusty Werra V! TC2 taken from Hastings coach very late one evening showing that sometimes you could see inside the reflective windows. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jitmen Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 I love these old apt-e photos,keep them coming please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest spet0114 Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Help! I'm having a bit of bother with my DCC Sound fitted APT and was wondering if anyone could help diagnose the problem?. My layout is DC, but with this model I was tempted to dip a toe in the DCC world. Having unpacked and assembled the model on the track, I applied some power. Not a lot happened. Internal lights came on in the two trailer cars and in PC2. The red tail lights in PC1 and the white headlights in PC2 also came on. This was irrespective of which polarity of DC I applied. There was no sound and no movement. Does the fact that lights are appearing in all four cars give confidence that the inter-car connections are being made properly? Flicking through the Rapido book, it mentions that if the train has been assigned a four-numeral DCC reference, then it won't work at all on DC. Does this sound like it might have happened to mine? Any thoughts? CheersAdrian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgvfan Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 Help! I'm having a bit of bother with my DCC Sound fitted APT and was wondering if anyone could help diagnose the problem?. My layout is DC, but with this model I was tempted to dip a toe in the DCC world. Having unpacked and assembled the model on the track, I applied some power. Not a lot happened. Internal lights came on in the two trailer cars and in PC2. The red tail lights in PC1 and the white headlights in PC2 also came on. This was irrespective of which polarity of DC I applied. There was no sound and no movement. Does the fact that lights are appearing in all four cars give confidence that the inter-car connections are being made properly? Flicking through the Rapido book, it mentions that if the train has been assigned a four-numeral DCC reference, then it won't work at all on DC. Does this sound like it might have happened to mine? Any thoughts? Cheers Adrian I would of thought the decoder would be at it`s default setting of 03 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LongRail Posted May 5, 2016 Share Posted May 5, 2016 On a DC layout you need to apply a lot of power. Pc1 has the decoder so,will work irrespective of any other connections. Have you tried full power Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 I love these old apt-e photos,keep them coming please. At the last count 2 mins ago I had 558 of them. It could take a while to post them all. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest spet0114 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 On a DC layout you need to apply a lot of power. Pc1 has the decoder so,will work irrespective of any other connections. Have you tried full power Yes, have tried full power in both directions. No joy. Tried running PC1 on its own. Again no sound or movement. Looks like I may have a duff one. :-( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted May 6, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 6, 2016 Yes, have tried full power in both directions. No joy. Tried running PC1 on its own. Again no sound or movement. Looks like I may have a duff one. :-( What DC controller are you using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Ian J. Posted May 6, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 6, 2016 At the last count 2 mins ago I had 558 of them. It could take a while to post them all. Could you set up a gallery here for them? I think there's a facility for that on RMweb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest spet0114 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 (edited) What DC controller are you using? I've tried two - an old H&M duette and an even older Tri-ang one. Edited May 6, 2016 by spet0114 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RedgateModels Posted May 6, 2016 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 6, 2016 I've tried two - an old H&M duette and an even older Tri-ang one. I think there's something in the documentation that says not to use these older controllers, might be wrong though. If I get chance I'll try PC1 with my Clipper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Could you set up a gallery here for them? I think there's a facility for that on RMweb. Dunno, maybe, but it'd take me an AGE. When I post them on here it's usually with some relevant covering text which puts them in a perspective. Just posting the whole lot would have people messaging me asking 'Where was No. 377 taken and what's that loco over on the right hand side of the shot?' etc. which could get to be a bit of a pain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piranha230 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Re, the tinted windows on Tc2, you can buy tinted self adhesive vinyl film on ebay very cheaply, it comes in various tint's , brown, smoke grey and silver, the brown and smoke tints are very good for using on coaches or units, you can see through it also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted May 6, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 6, 2016 Gven that it seems best to keep the APT-E coupled, perhaps there is an opportunity for Locomotion to sell a 'sort of tube with rails in' for people to keep their model in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piranha230 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Come on Rapido, we want this doing. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueeighties Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 I've tried two - an old H&M duette and an even older Tri-ang one. Probably a good idea to read the very humorous, detailed and comprehensive instruction book which will answer your question. You are trying to run a space age model with power akin to coal..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Re, the tinted windows on Tc2, you can buy tinted self adhesive vinyl film on ebay very cheaply, it comes in various tint's , brown, smoke grey and silver, the brown and smoke tints are very good for using on coaches or units, you can see through it also. They're not just tinted, they're reflective................... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Titan Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 I think there's something in the documentation that says not to use these older controllers, might be wrong though. If I get chance I'll try PC1 with my Clipper Yes there is. It warns against using a DCC version with an old DC controller. The output of which can be so noisy that the decoder does not recognise that it is on DC and therefore does not respond. The peak voltage they put out can also be very high, which may cause damage. Try putting a small non-electrolytic capacitor in parallel with the controller output, and see if that helps - but don't turn the power up too high! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piranha230 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Yes you can get the silver reflective film too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted May 6, 2016 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 6, 2016 Yes you can get the silver reflective film too. I can see it now.. Pimp My Ride, APT-E style........ Cheers, Mick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 Then they might not have said (twice) ... Of course, it doesn't, tilting is just a passenger comfort thing... But in the model it has the effect of 'locking' the model into the curved shape and making it all but impossible for it to throw itself off the outside of the curve. Try it. Then do the same speed with a bunch of Mk1s with typical loose tension-lock couplings and you'll see what I mean. Don't ask me to pay for your smashed Mk1s, though! (CJL) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Tilt Posted May 6, 2016 Share Posted May 6, 2016 That's most likely due to the articulation. The APT-E model just can't come apart on the curves, it's one long vehicle with three hinges in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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