RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 5, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2014 Now that the front of the loco body was firmly located I did some fine tuning to get it straight and level. Then I moved on to the rear mounting height. I ended up cutting new sides for the firebox. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 5, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2014 I've made up some tabs to help locate the cab and tank together. These are a temporary fix as they will eventually be soldered together. Tabs are hidden by the backhead. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 5, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2014 That was it for the evening, but this is what all the parts placed together currently looks like: 16 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 5, 2014 It does look the part. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 5, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2014 Now doesnt that already look a whole lot better than those corn beef tins or whatever they were called? Nope! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 5, 2014 Looks very nice, but I'm not sure you've got the right shade of green though... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 5, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2014 Looks very nice, but I'm not sure you've got the right shade of green though... There's a few rivets in the wrong place too... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 5, 2014 Will you need to extra weight in the tanks, or is the loco heavy enough to shunt a couple of trucks as it is ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted October 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 5, 2014 Chris looking at the cab/backhead assembly and thinking slightly ahead to the pipework and cab fittings I wonder if it might be useful to fit the raised sections of cab floor tp teh side and front sheets so they go onto the footplate all in one piece? That way the pipework and cab fittings would attach as part of it as well. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 6, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2014 Will you need to extra weight in the tanks, or is the loco heavy enough to shunt a couple of trucks as it is ? I've not weighed it yet but it's certainly not a lightweight loco. It will have a nice amount of lead stuffed in the tanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 6, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2014 Chris looking at the cab/backhead assembly and thinking slightly ahead to the pipework and cab fittings I wonder if it might be useful to fit the raised sections of cab floor tp teh side and front sheets so they go onto the footplate all in one piece? That way the pipework and cab fittings would attach as part of it as well. I'm thinking along the same lines Mike. I'm not going to refit the cab rear sheet or do the bunker rear just yet so that I can get access for the iron. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Are you going to be permanently attaching the cab roof? If you fit parts of the floor to the front and sides of the cab you're going to have difficulty painting the interior of the cab unless the roof is removable. My preference would be to fix the roof permanently, because it will look tidier, and fix the floor to the footplate which will help locate the cab in the correct position. Hope this makes sense. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 6, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2014 Are you going to be permanently attaching the cab roof? If you fit parts of the floor to the front and sides of the cab you're going to have difficulty painting the interior of the cab unless the roof is removable. My preference would be to fix the roof permanently, because it will look tidier, and fix the floor to the footplate which will help locate the cab in the correct position. Hope this makes sense. Yes the cab roof will be fixed. The raised parts Mike mentioned don't cover the whole cab floor, just two corners. I have a plan... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 shame the guy who designed the kit didn't have a complete set of plans... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted October 6, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2014 Are you going to be permanently attaching the cab roof? If you fit parts of the floor to the front and sides of the cab you're going to have difficulty painting the interior of the cab unless the roof is removable. My preference would be to fix the roof permanently, because it will look tidier, and fix the floor to the footplate which will help locate the cab in the correct position. Hope this makes sense. I can see the sense in fitting the floor (if you mean the two raised sections) to the footplate for the reason you suggest but I think it will make it far more difficult to do a lot of the cab fitting, especially the pipework which not only goes through the floor but also across it from the injectors to the clacks. Apart from the handbrake and another item (I'm not sure what it is to be honest) on the backsheet there are only a few things on the low part of the cab floor - just the springs and damper handles. And the spring on the Driver's side is in any case surrounded by the raised section of floor. Everything else including the reverser stand, draincocks lever and sander lever are all on the raised part. And the raised shovelling strip would seem like a useful locating guide, albeit in only one plane, for the raised floor section on the Driver's side. But then I'm not building it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 I can see the sense in fitting the floor (if you mean the two raised sections) to the footplate for the reason you suggest but I think it will make it far more difficult to do a lot of the cab fitting, especially the pipework which not only goes through the floor but also across it from the injectors to the clacks. Apart from the handbrake and another item (I'm not sure what it is to be honest) on the backsheet there are only a few things on the low part of the cab floor - just the springs and damper handles. And the spring on the Driver's side is in any case surrounded by the raised section of floor. Everything else including the reverser stand, draincocks lever and sander lever are all on the raised part. And the raised shovelling strip would seem like a useful locating guide, albeit in only one plane, for the raised floor section on the Driver's side. But then I'm not building it! Taking things a bit further then. How about fixing the backhead to the cab floor as well? Apologies to Chris for this debate about how to build his kit. It just goes to show that we all have different ways of doing things. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 (edited) I pretty much always fix the backhead to the cab floor, as it allows all the detailing and pipework to be completed, and the crew fitted, and then it just slots in. obvioulsy a bit easier in a tender loco, but the principle's the same. Few more details to add to this one... (it also needs to be sitting flat on the footplate) best Simon Edited October 6, 2014 by Simond 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 6, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2014 I've been looking at photos and have noticed all the fixtures and fittings that are attached to the cab sheets, backhead and floor... My cunning plan, which obviously depends on me being able to accurately cut metal, is to produce a copy of the front cab sheet which fits inside the cab. This would be fixed to the footplate along with the backhead. It should help firmly locate the cab and tank assembly and strengthen the flimsy cab a little. As I said it will depend on my developing metal bashing skills for it to work! Watch this space. Taking things a bit further then. How about fixing the backhead to the cab floor as well? Apologies to Chris for this debate about how to build his kit. It just goes to show that we all have different ways of doing things. Please discuss away... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 I've been looking at photos and have noticed all the fixtures and fittings that are attached to the cab sheets, backhead and floor... My cunning plan, which obviously depends on me being able to accurately cut metal, is to produce a copy of the front cab sheet which fits inside the cab. This would be fixed to the footplate along with the backhead. It should help firmly locate the cab and tank assembly and strengthen the flimsy cab a little. As I said it will depend on my developing metal bashing skills for it to work! Watch this space. Please discuss away... Sounds like a good plan to me. As cunning as a fox that's just been made Professor of Cunning at Oxford University. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Presumably then if the owner of Agenoria were to contact Chris, it would only take a bribe of one turnip and he would start saying that the 1366 is the best kit ever produced! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 6, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2014 Crunch, munch. I can honestly say that the Agenoria 1366 kit is the best 7mm loco kit I've ever made. Crunch, munch. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 6, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 6, 2014 Crunch, munch. I can honestly say that the Agenoria 1366 kit is the best 7mm loco kit I've ever made. Crunch, munch. But not the best 7mm kit you haven't made yet. I will be interested to see how Jim's O2 compares with this. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Siberian Snooper Posted October 6, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2014 Crunch, munch. I can honestly say that the Agenoria 1366 kit is the best 7mm loco kit I've ever made. Crunch, munch. I believe that it is your first 7mm kit, so it might also be the worst ever 7mm kit you've ever built. Of course you may have put some American tinned meat products on wheels, that may or may not be to 7mm to the foot. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 6, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 6, 2014 I pretty much always fix the backhead to the cab floor, as it allows all the detailing and pipework to be completed, and the crew fitted, and then it just slots in. cab.jpg obvioulsy a bit easier in a tender loco, but the principle's the same. Few more details to add to this one... (it also needs to be sitting flat on the footplate) best Simon Some great detail on the backhead there Simon. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Here's your chimney comparison Chris. Lionheart 74XX on the left. 9.5mm diameter. Scorpio 14XX on the right. 8mm diameter. Comparing the heights is difficult due to the tank casing on the pannier, but measuring from the tops of the smokeboxes they are both 23.5mm tall. Hope this helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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