N15class Posted September 30, 2014 Share Posted September 30, 2014 (Un)fortunately it's the way I'm wired Don - I like to have things about right. I also think that it will make the finished model a little more 'mine'. Having seen it now in place, I'm glad I bothered. It is a good way to be. I must admit I am fussier when it comes to my builds as to those that I buy to sell. You have to be careful or you spend more time than it is worth. Commissions are different because you are building to a specification. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted September 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 30, 2014 It is a good way to be. I must admit I am fussier when it comes to my builds as to those that I buy to sell. You have to be careful or you spend more time than it is worth. Commissions are different because you are building to a specification. I got carried away on a certain signal box, but I wanted it right and compromises didn't feel right. I'd make no money doing this as a job! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted September 30, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted September 30, 2014 As a 4mm scale modeller of diesely things I sometimes wish there was a need to build a loco kit or two, but the quality of RTR being what it is I find it dissappointingly unnecessary. I'm going to bookmark post 1 of this thread to remind me that the grass isn't always greener :-P Having had a look at the loco last week I think you've done a great job so far and it's a real shame that the kit has put up so much of a fight, but I'm sure the finished loco will be outstanding. Thought I'd replied to this Mark but obviously not! I feel very sorry for you having RTR of all the locos you desire ;-p The really sad thing is that Heljan have the 7mm diesel market sown up too. The only solution I can see for you is to buy and build a JLTRT Class 22. On the plus side, if the completed model offends you I'm more than happy to give it a home. Ps, don't loose that smokebox wrapper I left at your house! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted October 1, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 1, 2014 Your smoke box wrapper is quite safe, you don't mind it being painted rail blue do you? I might be tempted by a couple of 7mm wagon kits one day, when time allows. I'll admit to browsing the JLTRT range on a few occasions, but haven't given in to temptation, yet...... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 1, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 1, 2014 Your smoke box wrapper is quite safe, you don't mind it being painted rail blue do you? I might be tempted by a couple of 7mm wagon kits one day, when time allows. I'll admit to browsing the JLTRT range on a few occasions, but haven't given in to temptation, yet...... 22, 22, 22, 22, 22.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kev_Lewis Posted October 1, 2014 Share Posted October 1, 2014 (edited) I might be tempted by a couple of 7mm wagon kits one day, when time allows. I'll admit to browsing the JLTRT range on a few occasions, but haven't given in to temptation, yet...... Apart from the buffers, the JLTRT wagon kits go together very easily. They are a very good place to start. Edited October 1, 2014 by Kev_Lewis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 4, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 So, eventually doing some making. First job was to dismantle the loco to remove the cylinders. Then clean the ends up. Then find the 3 etched parts to be added to each (forgot I'd already cut them off the sheet, cleaned them up and put somewhere safe). Then dropped hot solder on my hand while cleaning the iron's tip. Then made the deliberate mistake below: Obviously well worth adding the "this way down arrow"! So unsoldering, the resoldering. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Well the convention is that arrows point up.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 4, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 Well the convention is that arrows point up.... It was supposed to designate which way the hole went... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 4, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 One wrapper done, one to go... 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 4, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 Looking for the castings that go in the end of the cylinders I came across those for the brakes. If you fit them with the mounting points square they don't quite sit right to the wheel... What to do? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 4, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 Cylinder cleaned up some more: 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted October 4, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 4, 2014 Looking for the castings that go in the end of the cylinders I came across those for the brakes. If you fit them with the mounting points square they don't quite sit right to the wheel... rps20141004_191143.jpg What to do? Move the wheels... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 4, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 There's a casting designed to fit on the rear of the cylinders between the slide bars. Here I had some luck in that it was too small... You'll recall that I've fitted some brass tube to guide the piston, well that would have been in the way of the casting. As the casting was too small I was able to cut it in half and fit a bit either side of the tube. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 4, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 I really should have learnt by now to take the instructions with a pinch of salt... You'll recall that there's a hole at the bottom of the cylinder casing front. You'll also recall that i put the first one on the wrong way up, took it off and put it back on the right way up. All pointless because photos show there's nothing there on the real loco! So hole now filled: 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Mark Forrest Posted October 4, 2014 RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 Looking for the castings that go in the end of the cylinders I came across those for the brakes. If you fit them with the mounting points square they don't quite sit right to the wheel... rps20141004_191143.jpg What to do? Drill through the pivot, then carefully cut to detach the brake from its hanger. Reattach by threading brass rod through the hole you drilled then solder in a more appropriate position. Either that or bin them and buy some better ones! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 4, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 4, 2014 (edited) Drill through the pivot, then carefully cut to detach the brake from its hanger. Reattach by threading brass rod through the hole you drilled then solder in a more appropriate position. Either that or bin them and buy some better ones! Either that or just do the cut then solder it back on in the correct position. Unless you need to be able to adjust it. Don edit due to misbehaving fingers again Edited October 4, 2014 by Donw Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 4, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 HELP! Draincocks!! Nice diagram? Clear instructions? Backed up by a photo... Simples?? Well no. The photo and diagram say the castings to use are parts 102, but these look like the photo below (somewhat like whistles to me, and two sizes at that): You'll notice that the written instructions say the castings to use are parts 130 not 102. There's only two of these though and I need four. What I do have four of though are the un-numbered part shown next to the pencil tip. Photos in the Pannier Papers book look nothing like any of the options. Not sure what to do or if there's a better option on the draincock front. Any suggestions? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 4, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 4, 2014 Drill through the pivot, then carefully cut to detach the brake from its hanger. Reattach by threading brass rod through the hole you drilled then solder in a more appropriate position. Either that or bin them and buy some better ones! Option B maybe... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
0_gauge_novice Posted October 4, 2014 Share Posted October 4, 2014 Uhgh....I had the same with my MWs draincocks.The second photo of yours seem to be right. I have a photo which Mike Williams send me and I can pass it tomorrow to you through email that might help. The pictures in the instructions are awful. Cheers Andreas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Stationmaster Posted October 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 5, 2014 The things you have identified as whistles are in fact - whistles (and I presume without checking pics that as usual the engine will have whistles of two sizes, larger one on the right hand side). I also reckon the other things which look as if they could be the draincocks really are probably meant to be the draincocks (but were not very well modelled - nothing new there for this kit). I'm wondering if you could possibly fabricate draincocks build them up around a brass wire core? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted October 5, 2014 RMweb Gold Share Posted October 5, 2014 That reminds me I need some working ones for a live steamer unfortunately 16mm rather than 7mm Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 5, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2014 Cylinders finished off today (apart from the draincocks which I'm going to think about) and now back on the chassis. Looking better. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 5, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2014 Next I decided to have a look at how to fix the body to the footplate. Three bits of NS were cut. Two (one each side) were soldered vertically to the underside of the tank and to the rear of the smokebox front. The third was soldered across the base - after drilling a hole and fixing a nut to the inside. This gives me a good strong box to fix the front of the loco. The half etched smokebox wrapper was fitted on top of the structural box. I can only do one wrapper as the other is 30 miles away! The cast steampipes were also added at this stage. Still for fine tuning to do... 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted October 5, 2014 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted October 5, 2014 I really think you should be very pleased with your progress.....I know I would have hoyed the lot outta the window and ran down stairs and jumped on it in the yard by now....! Cheers Mickey. The closest I got to that was the forming of the tanks. It's slowly building up to a nearly finished model though as later pictures will show. There's very few etched parts left and it's now mostly a battle with the castings. They are just frustrating, mainly because so many are wrong or poor. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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