Osgood Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 (edited) …...Mt Morgan in Queensland operated 3 of these Hunslet 0-4-0 Saddle Tanks on 3'6" gauge. ….. According to an Oz steam website, Martin, that is No 2 (797 of 1902). It seems No 3 (854 of 1903) also survives: http://www.westonlangford.com/images/photo/1981/jun/ (see halfway down) P.S. Simon - the wheels weights are typical of Hunslet's early output. Edited March 29, 2015 by Osgood Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Is if possible the flange halfway up the chimney is something to do with a spark arrester? Best Simon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 30, 2015 Author Share Posted March 30, 2015 (edited) The Hunslet will probably stay at 2'4-1/4" gauge as I just won a Peco kit for Talyllyn and its Branchlines chassis for a steal on ebay. I also have the coaches from the Minicraft Vulcan kit. I'm starting to feel a transshipment diorama coming on! Edited March 30, 2015 by hartleymartin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 it just looks like a short chimney that was extended Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted March 31, 2015 Author Share Posted March 31, 2015 I have not yet got any pictures, but I've disembowelled a Bachmann Percy Mechanism to fit into the Peco Quarry Hunslet body. Quite a lot more of it had to be removed than I first thought! It is a little annoying that the pick-ups are attached to the footplate, so I'm going to have to make some new arrangements for that. The wheelbase is probably a scale inch or two on the long side, but I don't think it'll be that noticeable. I'll probably add a couple of toolboxes to the footplate to obscure the rear springs so that it won't be too obvious. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted March 31, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 31, 2015 That's a short chimney that's been fitted with a homemade extension, probably to keep smoke out of the equally homemade cab when that was added Really nice modelling Martin, I hadn't seen the thread before, thanks for pointing it out. Cheers, Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 (edited) well, I wondered about that, but the other one on Martin's link above had the same thing too! best Simon Edited March 31, 2015 by Simond Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted April 27, 2015 Author Share Posted April 27, 2015 (edited) Still doing stuff in O scale. I've been distracted by a Peco Body kit for the large quarry hunslet, but more distracted recently by a certain Fletcher-Jennings locomotive. I picked up the body and chassis kits relatively cheaply off ebay and decided that I should have a crack at this kit as a skill-builder for future O scale standard gauge kits I want to build. Quite a lot of Tamiya putty, filing and sanding has been involved with getting the saddle tank to look like one piece and not just two lumps of whitemetal glued together. I find that building kits helps me get ideas for scratch-building.Introducing "Skarloey" (I may be tempted to also build Rheneas!) Edited April 27, 2015 by hartleymartin 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMR CHRIS Posted April 28, 2015 Share Posted April 28, 2015 (edited) Still doing stuff in O scale. I've been distracted by a Peco Body kit for the large quarry hunslet, but more distracted recently by a certain Fletcher-Jennings locomotive. I picked up the body and chassis kits relatively cheaply off ebay and decided that I should have a crack at this kit as a skill-builder for future O scale standard gauge kits I want to build. Quite a lot of Tamiya putty, filing and sanding has been involved with getting the saddle tank to look like one piece and not just two lumps of whitemetal glued together. I find that building kits helps me get ideas for scratch-building. Introducing "Skarloey" (I may be tempted to also build Rheneas!) Nice work Martin got to love modellers putty can turn a pig of a kit into a something straighter than the prototype ever was. A director of one of the major preservation society's was asked to judge a model competition and his first remark on judging was that none of the model locomotives presented were even close to his preserved charges as they were all to "Perfect", no wobbly plate work perfect boiler wrapers no dents etc. Your going to have to have a interchange track on your layout from the Standard Gauge to Narrow Gauge. I'm sure you could squeeze a little track along the back scene arriving at the goods siding and a duel platform for passanger interchange. I think you need to make a start on something layout wise, it will give you a focus for an end goal for the Locos and rolling stock. Edited April 28, 2015 by SMR CHRIS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted April 28, 2015 Author Share Posted April 28, 2015 Indeed I would like to get started on a layout. I've got about 50% of what I need to get it started: 12mm plywood planks for framing, 5mm foamcore board, 50mm foamboard, lots of peco track, etc. I still need a number of items, a re-organisation of my room (I live in a share house) and a number of miscellaneous items such as glues, screws, etc. I have thought about perhaps some sort of narrow gauge to standard gauge exchange layout inspired by Corrimal Coal and Coke. In all probability I will sell on the narrow gauge stuff when it's done, but I am rather tempted to hold on to "Skarloey" as I have always wanted to model a Sudrian prototype railway. I have a number of coaches from the Minicraft Models Vulcan Saddleback plastic kit which would go nicely into a blue and cream livery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMR CHRIS Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) Hi Marty found these two and thought you may like, its NSWGR No69 front and rear views Edit Found another of No69 Edited August 7, 2015 by SMR CHRIS 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Thanks! Additional images of the prototype are always helpful. These have highlighted the front wings on the smokebox and the flare of the bunker. Two jobs that I'll have to look at when doing my Terrier conversion. Looking at the price that the Dapol Terriers will be going up after the initial shipment, I think it might be worth looking at converting the Cast Kit of the Terrier than trying to modify the RTR model. I'm still undecided on that issue for the moment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 Well, I am working on an NSWGR 0-6-0 Tank Engine, but not the one that I originally intended to do! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 10, 2015 Author Share Posted November 10, 2015 (edited) I'm starting to explore some of the more advanced features of the forums whilst I do this! The body castings are dry-assembled just to let you see what it will roughly look like. The backhead casting is modified to allow the fitting of firebox flicker. The boiler needs a fair chunk of it sawn away to fit the motor and gearbox. The Slaters Sprung Hornblocks. These were an optional extra for the kit. They were also a bit of a pain to assemble until I figured out that the castings had warped slightly. Not to worry - a dunk in hot water followed by spreading the hornguides with my fingers fixed that. The two that will be used on the centre ale will be allowed about 1mm extra ride height than the two outer ones. The etched frames. The kit has a couple of design flaws such as the etched frame spacers getting in the way of the hornblocks and the gearbox! I'm seriously thinking of switching to old-school chassis spacers to assemble this one. I also tried contacting Premier Components about making me a set of machined connecting rods but no response so far! Edited November 10, 2015 by hartleymartin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium DLT Posted November 10, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 10, 2015 Looks really good Martin, I look forward to watching your progress. All the best, Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnaby Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 Good precise work there Martin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SMR CHRIS Posted November 10, 2015 Share Posted November 10, 2015 (edited) Nice start to a new project Martin will follow with interest. The 18 will be a top little loco for shunting. BTW just set up Moonan Flat again after the show so can start doing some more scenic's before exhibiting again next year as a layout on its own, not as a demo. Will let you know when you may want to come along an give your trains a shunt. Edited November 10, 2015 by SMR CHRIS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 If you're bringing the layout along to Liverpool 2016, I'll most definitely give you a lend of my locos and rolling stock, though from what I can see of your own collection there is no shortage on your roster! Looking at the Z18 class kit, there isn't a heck of a lot to it's construction. It is mostly etched brass below the footplate and urethane castings above. As you could see in my posting, it was very easy to dry-assemble the major body components to mock up the finished body. John Parker also kindly sent me a PDF of his article on building the Z18 - it has a number of notes and suggestions of the modifications which need to be carried out. If Glenn from ModelOKits is willing to provide parts out of kits for scratch-builders, I think that a superheated 25 class with the extended smokebox and laird crosshead would be something worth trying. Looking at some loco data and drawings the boiler is 32mm in diameter which should mean that I could find a suitable pipe and modify Z19 chimney and dome the boiler was 3" narrower on the 19 class - 1.75mm in O scale. The trouble is that I don't think Glen holds on to "reject castings" like Peter Krause did. Several times over the years I've been able to raid the reject pile for parts which proved extremely useful for scratch-building! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 (edited) For reference, here is an example of a preserved 18 class, but without it's original bunker. Oirginally 1804, it became a coal-grab loco and was renumbered 1076. When the crane was removed the original bunker was not put back (probably lost or scrapped) and a basic one was fabricated from sheet metal. I'll put the original bunker on mine. Preserved sister locomotive 1803 has it's original bunker, but for some reason was stored with a D50 class chimney. She has since been statically restored as North-Western Railway No. 1 "Thomas" These photos also confirm my suspicion that they had timber buffer-beams. Providing that I can accurately determine the size of the timber, I'll be modifying my model with real timber buffer-beams. My plan is to super-glue them to the etched brass valance plate, but for strength to also drill a couple of 1mm holes through the footplate and insert 1mm brass rod to strengthen the join. I shall then file down the rod level with the footplate and it should not be too noticeable. I will also probably replace the buffer housings with those from ModelOKits (ex-Waratah product) as I don't fancy the job of cleaning up the supplied castings.As many of you will gather, I rarely build a kit "out-of-the-box." Edited November 11, 2015 by hartleymartin 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 As the prototype has timber buffer-beams, I decided that the model should as well. So the etched bufferbeams were removed and the valance plate has had sections cut out to allow the fitting of scale-timber replacements. This job was done with a rather nice razor saw I bought years ago, sold by Atlas as a "track saw." And a Warding Bastard File. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 Finished hacking up the valance plate this afternoon. For some reason the kit came with two of them, so I do have a back-up if it all goes pear-shaped. Turned out to be much quicker and easier than I thought it was going to be. I cut the side valances estimating by eye where the cut needed to go then used the file to bring it to the right dimension. So far so good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hesperus Posted November 11, 2015 Share Posted November 11, 2015 I can see this looking great Martin It's a pity that all your photos have vanished from earlier in the thread though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 11, 2015 Author Share Posted November 11, 2015 I linked them to my facebook account which was a bad idea. I've started uploadinf them to my rmwrb account. I might be able to find the old photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 16, 2015 Author Share Posted November 16, 2015 (edited) After several failed attempts at getting the supplied etched spacers soldered into place for the 18 class chassis, I've decided to abandon these parts and purchase some 24mm turned brass frame spacers. You drill holes through the two frames, bolt the spacers in place and get on with it. If you're feeling industrious, it is possible to then solder these spacers in place. I'll use a small gas torch for the job. I used the small gas torch to put in the fillet of solder to strengthen the folded valances. That worked nicely enough. Clearly, I cannot do etched brass construction very well. I certainly will not be attempting to roll a boiler barrel in brass any time soon! Most of the urethane body castings got a light coat of grey primer today to show up any flaws in the surface. Several components have small pin-prick sized bubble holes in the surface. I'm hoping that these will disappear under a coat of paint. They are too small for modelling putty to be used and I don't want to have to sand it back and loose all the cast-in rivet head and bolt details. Not so sure what to do about it. Edited November 16, 2015 by hartleymartin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hartleymartin Posted November 20, 2015 Author Share Posted November 20, 2015 Next stage of the modifications for the real timber bufferbeams. Some 1/4" K%S Brass angle soldered (gas torch) to the valance plate. This will give glueing surface for the bufferbeams but if all goes well it will also take up the load of the couplings, rather than depending on a wood to metal glue join. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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