RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 Simon / Paul, Jim is already ahead of you! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 I was thinking last night that the bogie build would have to wait whilst I got 1/8" bearings for the bogie axles. Then I remembered that I had these (not sure why I had them): These fit the bogie axles, but better still they are a snug fit inside the 3/8" bearings provided in the kit. Result. Edit... Not a result as the axles are not actually 1/8" as I was informed when buying them but a slightly larger 5/32". First snag of the build... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Those look too small. The axles are 5/32" not 1/8". The Slaters 6920 5/32" bushes are 5mm od, and so Jim's bushes needs drilling out. Then all the bushes fit from inside the frames. Slaters have updated their web site to include the wheels with the bushes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 Where are you looking on the website? I still can't see them listed:https://slatersplastikard.com/wheels/7mmScale/7mmBogie.php Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 For some reason they are on the driving wheels page. I just used the drop down list on the home page. https://slatersplastikard.com/wheels/7mmScale/7mmLoco.php#Section1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 18, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2015 So, as you haven't got enough holes in your baseboard, you're actually buying packs of holes too... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 For some reason they are on the driving wheels page. I just used the drop down list on the home page. https://slatersplastikard.com/wheels/7mmScale/7mmLoco.php#Section1 Silly me looking for bogie wheels on the bogie wheels page. I fell in to the same trap of looking for the new Maunsell coach under the Southern section when obviously it's to be found under the GWR section. Not the best website! I've sent Slaters a polite note explaining that they where sold to me on the phone as having 1/8" axles and came with no bearings, despite now being advertised as 'with bearings'. Looks like the only "Agenoria" issue with this kit so far is with third party supplied parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 So, as you haven't got enough holes in your baseboard, you're actually buying packs of holes too... Don't worry Stu, I'm fully stocked up with holes for the baseboard. I've tied them up with string to help me find them again. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 Those look too small. The axles are 5/32" not 1/8". The Slaters 6920 5/32" bushes are 5mm od, and so Jim's bushes needs drilling out. Then all the bushes fit from inside the frames. Slaters have updated their web site to include the wheels with the bushes. So, if I have this right, the Slatters bushes that fit the Slatters 5/32" axles have a smaller outside diameter than the holes etched into the bogie frames to take the bushes supplied by Jim. I see trouble ahead for Bodgit and Scarper Kit Building Inc... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted January 18, 2015 Share Posted January 18, 2015 Yes. Jim designed the kit using 3/16" axles and bushes, with the springs and beam resting on the bushes. Also fitted from inside the frames there is almost no side play. Then Slaters did the wheels, but recommended they would look better with smaller axles, and they could provide bushes to fit inside his bushes. Possibly some 3/16 outside 5/32 inside brass tube might be better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 Just a little work this evening: Two lots of 3.5 laminations. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 What I did find was the the holes in each end were very slightly handed, so it was important to get all the same hands at each end otherwise the alignment was slightly ragged. Not long to wheels? 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 18, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2015 You appear to not only have the skills now to tackle these jobs, but also the confidrnce in those abilities that you can do them without concern. Those long metal rod things look very neat. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 You appear to not only have the skills now to tackle these jobs, but also the confidrnce in those abilities that you can do them without concern. Those long metal rod things look very neat. The 1366 was a steep learning curve / baptism of fire. It would have been very easy to have given up at multiple stages but perseverance and determination generally won over lack of skill and the right tools. I have invested in a few more tools but what I have is still just a step up from basic. This does mean I have to think carefully about the solutions I come up with - those with fully fitted workshops will no doubt be able to turn out more elegant things quicker but it's not a race. I've said this before but the 1366 has done more to move my skills on than a simple straightforward kit. It has sorely tested my resolve and, despite the current trial separation, will be completed once the confidence has been restored with a few completed projects under my belt. The main things I've learned though are that it's fairly hard to hurt brass and NS with solder. If something doesn't work take it apart, clean up the bits and have another go. Keeping the areas to be soldered together clean and well fluxed is important. Most important of all is that you won't gain skills over night: they come from having a go and keeping trying until you find what works for you. What works will be different for everyone and personal preference comes in. Again, as I've said before, I really do kick myself for not trying this soldering lark many years ago - time wasted. Once the O2 is done I'll be able to return back to the 1366 refreshed and with a heap of ideas to resolve the outstanding issues. I'm pleased I chose to put it to one side for a while - the slow progress was starting to destroy the little confidence I had. In the meantime I've finished of two brass wagon kits to primer stage and experimented with wagon suspension and couplings. Forward momentum is restored. A big thanks to all on here who help and encourage publicly and via PM. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Donw Posted January 18, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 18, 2015 Seeing as ou are getting a taste for this sort of thing you may like to consider getting one of the chassis assembly things. Mine came from Hobby Holidays ( I think the design may have changed) you set the thing to the couplings rods which then ensures the bearings or hornblocks are to the same spacing when fitted into the frame. Not essential but helps a bodger like me. Don Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 18, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 18, 2015 Seeing as ou are getting a taste for this sort of thing you may like to consider getting one of the chassis assembly things. Mine came from Hobby Holidays ( I think the design may have changed) you set the thing to the couplings rods which then ensures the bearings or hornblocks are to the same spacing when fitted into the frame. Not essential but helps a bodger like me. Don I have looked at those Don, will be ideal for the Bulleid Pacific build... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I have looked at those Don, will be ideal for the Bulleid Pacific build... I have always used my JPL jig. I would rather buy other things, they are good but the JPL ones work very well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Fitness Posted January 19, 2015 Share Posted January 19, 2015 I have always used my JPL jig. I would rather buy other things, they are good but the JPL ones work very well. I think its about time I got some sort of setting up jig. I can't even set up a 4 coupled chassis properly at the moment!!! JF Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 19, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2015 I have always used my JPL jig. I would rather buy other things, they are good but the JPL ones work very well. That's the one I have. Basic, but it seems to work. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 19, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 19, 2015 Evening all. I've skipped page 10 (the bogie) until I've a bit more time and in the last two evenings have completed much of page 11. The chassis now has go faster wings (need to add some rivet strips): And various junk added here too: I do like taking photos because they show up things you otherwise miss... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 I like the photos too, as it shows up the bits I missed. I have the JPL jig as well. Did you blacken the JPL rods ? or did they come like that ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 20, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2015 I like the photos too, as it shows up the bits I missed. I have the JPL jig as well. Did you blacken the JPL rods ? or did they come like that ? They came like that but now have added rust! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 20, 2015 Share Posted January 20, 2015 Evening all. I've skipped page 10 (the bogie) until I've a bit more time and in the last two evenings have completed much of page 11. rps20150119_223957.jpg The chassis now has go faster wings (need to add some rivet strips): rps20150119_224025.jpg And various junk added here too: rps20150119_224101.jpg I do like taking photos because they show up things you otherwise miss... I agree with the photos, I like the way a ten times life size photo shows up the poorly fitted and cleaned parts. Often wonder how I manage to make such thinks look right with the naked eye. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted January 20, 2015 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted January 20, 2015 For a different project... what are peoples opinions on Slaters new style hornblocks? How you go about fitting the things?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike47j Posted January 21, 2015 Share Posted January 21, 2015 I fitted one pair to the middle wheels of my O2. I cut the springs from the frames and soldered them to the Slaters keeper bar. Had to file a bit off the sliding blocks so that I could fit the gearbox inbetween. Cut a big slot in the frames and used the JPL jig to fit the hornblocks. Easier than some others to fit. The keeper bar is held on by bits of 0.5mm brass wire, there is not much room to use a screw, but it seems OK. The pin that holds the spring can be filed down a bit to adjust the ride height, a screw would be better. Not a problem in this case as the ride height is set by the other wheels. I'll use them again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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