Dettingen GCR might have been layout

[gr.king]

14 hours ago, richard i said:

I had not heard before of older paints not being waterproof. when did that start then?

richard
 

Not sure if/when it "started", but my impression of "traditional" paints was always (at least until a few minutes ago) that matt undercoats were generally not to be regarded as fully weatherproof / waterproof / hard wearing unless top-coated with gloss or varnish, and that as more and more of the "good ingredients" were banned it became more and more important with either oil-based paints or the water based alternatives that were being marketed, to apply a proper full-gloss oil based top coat to give full protection.  Manufacturers seem now to be claiming that some modern matt paints are fully waterproof, but I don't feel inclined to rely on those claims. 

[richard i]

In discussion with John quick today we reckon the most likely option is black for the tender top. Green for the front top piece and black for the rest of the front. 

no red front. That was only for Atlantics, improved directors (maybe the originals too) and the Lord faringdons.
lining on the D7 tender was limited to the double lined around the company name. Makes life easier.

I will therefore paint it up like this.

thanks for all thoughts.

richard 

[richard i]

Taping of the engine done. 
three or four hours to tape. It will take about five minutes to spray the green paint.

I want to get it sprayed on one of the few remaining days before the weather completely turns. 
Fingers crossed

richard 

[richard i]

Transfers irritate me as they try to fall of models later in life when being handled.

I have decided to try to do as much of the lining on this as possible with paint. Previously only the black outer line was masked in this way to paint. I have now tried the white tender buffer beam lining.

more to follow as it becomes necessary.

some will still be lined/ transfers. I am aware I do not have infinite ability. I would also be annoyed if it looked rubbish.

let’s see how this goes.

richard 

[richard i]

I had the dream team around to address issues with the layout from trips across the Atlantic and being forced to run on 110v for 5 years. 

Whilst it has run in BR steam condition this is the moment the first GCR only sequence is able to be started. Fittingly it is the inspection saloon.

thank you Clive and Andy.

richard

[gr.king]

Presumably not 110V at the track...

[richard i]

21 minutes ago, gr.king said:

Presumably not 110V at the track...

No but it went into the transformers so a max of 6v came out. Not enough for some old motors and the points went across very slowly.

it was also 50amps not 13 but my electric knowledge is not good enough to know if that makes any difference beyond how far it knocks you across the room if you touch it.

richard

[richard i]

The fiddle yard and sidings beginning to fill up.

 

ones at the front are for repair. I still need to find some brake vans.

The red carriage is carved from wood from about 1947, not pregrouping but is genuinely pre nationalisation   
richard 

[Tom Burnham]

On 26/10/2023 at 10:14, richard i said:

 

it was also 50amps not 13 but my electric knowledge is not good enough to know if that makes any difference beyond how far it knocks you across the room if you touch it.

richard

When I was at school in the Late Mediaeval period, we were taught "It's the Volts that jolts and the Mills (milliamps) that kills."

[richard i]

Aaaaaaaaaaah.

I used a sharpie to do the black surround on the splashers and then hoped to use this pen which says it does 0.5mm lines. I practiced on the sheet. The width of the nozzle should have left a 0.2mm black line above. 

it turned out like this. Totally covering the black and much else beside.

I did both sides so it can all dry and then I will look to infill with the black to see if I can get it to work that way around.

All this so I do not need to use transfers. If I come up with a solution I will attempt the complex shape around the cab side. The slasher tops and cab front will need to use plan B…..whatever that might be.

on the plus side, wooden cab floor and crew fitted.

richard 

[James Harrison]

I had/ have a similar 'easiliner' tool and have invariably found it anything but.  'Posca' or similar paint pens might be worth a try?

[gr.king]

Paint too thin if it is creeping all over the place like that. If that "pen" won't work with thicker paint then it's useless for applying paint lines to non-absorbent surfaces.

[micklner]

I had a easi liner , totally useless at thin lines , it was sold on via ebay . I never had any luck with a Bob Moore version either that went via ebay too.

I continue to use HMRS lining decals , sadly their quality is poor at best now as well. Fox Tranfers is the only one now. No idea if they do any SR versions , the LNER lining is similar .

[richard i]

Thanks for the advice.

I found line marker pens in hobby craft which take to paint. Do not buy the extra fine brush. It forms droplets on paint.

before final clean up it seems to have saved the lining. 

I will try the advice of thicker paint and perhaps go back and see if the hobby shop has white lining pens. In my experience, less likely. Paper is white normally.

still some way to go on painting. I need to improve.

richard 

[jimwal]

To the best of my knowledge Richard, you are the first in our group to achieve anything like that.

 

That is after some 55 years of the club's existence!

 

A reminder......  we're at Dave's tomorrow.

 

 

Edited October 28, 2023 by jimwal
Reminder

[gr.king]

As a further thought, I'm not sure how any pen with a "tubular" nib is reliably supposed to produce a neat fine paint line on a non-absorbent surface. The traditional draughtsman's pen works because each of the "blades" of the nib, a very short distance apart, runs either side of the intended line, depositing paint by capillary action (or similar phenomenon) between the two blades, and leaving it there undisturbed.  A tubular nib inevitably has part of the wall of the tube passing over (or through) the deposited paint as the pen is drawn along. Unless the end of the tube is honed to a special shape and/or the pen held in correct orientation at the right tilted angle to the work, isn't that "following" edge of the tube simply going to smear out the wet line? It's possibly a different case with inks and paper, the ink presumably soaking promptly into the paper and dodging the sweep of the trailing part of the tube wall.

Maybe any highly successful users of tubular pens can enlighten us?

[richard i]

To prove it is not a fluke.

top of the cab sides done. 

to do that shape with transfers would be a nightmare. 
pleased this looks to be ok from 3ft rule. Also looks to be steadier. 
 

Curved cab front and splashers tops next. May need a big glass of bravery for those.

 

3 minutes ago, gr.king said:

Maybe any highly successful users of tubular pens can enlighten us?

That won’t be me. As attempt 1 showed.

richard

[Stephen Freeman]

Never had much luck with Bob Moores pen, sold that ages ago,  I have a bowpen, which I sometimes use though its tricky doing curved bits. A long time ago I found that Rotring pens with the wire removed worked just fine. I don't suppose they are available these days and if they are they are somewhat expensive.

[micklner]

This was done using HMRS , you need to look at the sheets provided shapes and then cut and  blend them in. The LNER sheet is suitable for SR as well. The A2 wheels were done with Fox Transfers A3 sheet

 

 

 

 

[richard i]

The transfers work well. However, I find for complex shapes the are a big fight. Also I can find  white black white  which is great for boiler bands. There does not seem to be a white black for edging. Fox does white lines as a separate sheet but it is broader than I would like.

caught between the proverbial rock and hard place.

richard 

[micklner]

https://hmrs.org.uk/lner-locomotive-lining.html

 

The centre section is white/black

 

Manouevre with a cocktail stick, and cutting as already said .

Edited October 29, 2023 by micklner

[Stephen Freeman]

white/black or indeed white/black/white should be doable in DIY transfers

Edited October 29, 2023 by Stephen Freeman

[ChrisN]

20 hours ago, richard i said:

Thanks for the advice.

I found line marker pens in hobby craft which take to paint. Do not buy the extra fine brush. It forms droplets on paint.

before final clean up it seems to have saved the lining. 

I will try the advice of thicker paint and perhaps go back and see if the hobby shop has white lining pens. In my experience, less likely. Paper is white normally.

still some way to go on painting. I need to improve.

richard 

 

Richard,

I have tried to look for thin lining white pens.  The first was a Posca paint pen which was described as having a nib of 0.1- 0.8mm.  It is really a paint brush and the thickness depends on how hard you push.  The only thing I have used it for is to put our house number on the food waste collection bin.

 

I have two I have not tried.  A Derwent Paint Pen which has a 0.5mm nib, and a Pilot Super Colour permanent ink.  I have found black down to 0.1mm but white 0.5mm is the smallest.  Whether these are any use I am not sure.

[richard i]

3 hours ago, Stephen Freeman said:

white/black or indeed white/black/white should be doable in DIY transfers

If I could print white. Alas most printers do not have it. There is a part of me which wants to get some done for the gcr liveries as a bespoke order from say fox, hoping for others that they then put it in the range. Red white black white red for the boiler bands is probably the hardest to replicate.

richard 

[billbedford]

Have you considered something like this?