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Dettingen GCR might have been layout


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Played some more with the 3d print.

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A 2mm, 4mm, and 7mm print. The answer is. It looks to work superbly for 7mm all the inner components seem to have clearly printed. The 2mm is really pushing our machine a bit far. The out side might have printed fine, except for the supporting struts. However, the innards look a washout . The roof is too flimsy, it does not even support itself. The 4mm was printed alongside to make sure it was not a misprint, it was not.

7mm modeled could be in for a treat if bedders puts this in his shape ways shop.

Richard

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Played some more with the 3d print.

attachicon.gifIMG_5229.JPG

attachicon.gifIMG_5230.JPG

A 2mm, 4mm, and 7mm print. The answer is. It looks to work superbly for 7mm all the inner components seem to have clearly printed. The 2mm is really pushing our machine a bit far. The out side might have printed fine, except for the supporting struts. However, the innards look a washout . The roof is too flimsy, it does not even support itself. The 4mm was printed alongside to make sure it was not a misprint, it was not.

7mm modeled could be in for a treat if bedders puts this in his shape ways shop.

Richard

Hi Richard

 

Have you drawn the 3D drawing for these or did some poor kid, I mean willing student volunteer do it for you?

 

I like the idea of making the bits inside the body.

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Clive,

I am flattered you might think my drawing had got this good, but no. Also not a student either. I am getting them to teach me the skills rather than just make stuff. Teach a man to fish and all that.

No this rather good design comes from Bedders of this parish. Things inside is a good idea. Do need to be spaced so can get round to remove them and need to print with supports if it is being positively printed.

Richard

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The chassis gets worked on.

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The frames have been re shaped to conform more to the prototype design. The brake hangers have been shaped up, from the sprue of a bill Bedford kit. The gear box out for final soldering to the correct shape. Finally guard irons for both the front and back.

Richard

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  • 3 weeks later...

Where to start.

Finally got a plan underway for the brakegear.

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It almost makes the end feel in sight.

Got side tracked by experimenting.

First using a water soluble filament for the supports on a fish truck. The gloop it creates is enormous and water needs changing every couple of hours.

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The fine detail came out better, but the ultimaker print is not as clear as the makerbot.

Also to speed it up I ran it under hot water. That softened and deformed its squareness. More hot water and I returned its shape. Needs more thought and more patience.

Then I tried to learn 2d drawing. Can do lines and boxes so far.

Here are sides for a Barnum brake as a first attempt, cut on a laser cutter.

Learning what the laser cutter will do too. The first piece it cut through like butter.

 

 

 

 

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Edited by richard i
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Really getting distracted now.

Some great work here from shapeways. Recreation21 of this parish has been noble and drawn these up.

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What is not to like in a GCR petrol rail car. And it can be got in almost any scale.

The dynamometer car is coming out from rapids, but this is a much cheaper option. And more fun to do.

I would recommend these. Recreation21 has suggested other GCR carriages in the pipe line. That really got my attention.

Richard

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Really getting distracted now.

Some great work here from shapeways. Recreation21 of this parish has been noble and drawn these up.

attachicon.gifIMG_5403.JPG

What is not to like in a GCR petrol rail car. And it can be got in almost any scale.

The dynamometer car is coming out from rapids, but this is a much cheaper option. And more fun to do.

I would recommend these. Recreation21 has suggested other GCR carriages in the pipe line. That really got my attention.

Richard

Hi Richard

 

What a pity neither of us can get to the Club on a Monday. I am sure they would have been a talking point.

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It looks rather like there's a lot of work to do on those 3D prints of the railcar and dyno car to eliminate the spray-concrete finish and produce a smooth surface with sharp features.

Edited by gr.king
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It looks rather like there's a lot of work to do on those 3D prints of the railcar and dyno car to eliminate the spray-concrete finish and produce a smooth surface with sharp features.

Happy to do it. I find it one of the more therapeutic aspects of the hobby. Simple, mundane and can be done late at night when I need to unwind and am tired,

Richard

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Considering the amount of effort that would be involved in scratch-building a thing like this, or even building one from an etched kit (if such a kit existed), a certain amount of fettling seems a small price to pay. Dapol ain't going to wheel out a RTR version any time soon - they might if it was GWR!

 

(EDIT) I have located the 7mm version! Definitely having one when I come back from hols. Just the job for the Wathboro Junction Shuttle, although what the missus will make of it I don't know. She dislikes diesels more than I dislike...(better not say as the mods might not like it!)

 

I think this thing requires tramway type seats. In 7mm they can be had from Terry Russell. No idea about other scales though.

Edited by Poggy1165
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BTW, Richard, have you or anyone else any ideas how to motorise this baby?

 

One thing that occurs to me (in 7mm) is a small motor mounted in the bogie, model tramcar style. There may well be a better way though. D&E modelling is virgin territory for me!

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BTW, Richard, have you or anyone else any ideas how to motorise this baby?

 

One thing that occurs to me (in 7mm) is a small motor mounted in the bogie, model tramcar style. There may well be a better way though. D&E modelling is virgin territory for me!

In 4mm I would have a look at the US H0 traction (tram) models for a suitable motor bogie.

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  • 1 month later...

I have never had to retrieve the thread from the fourth page of content I follow before. It however sums up the situation at the moment. I have not done any modeling for over a month now as we close out the academic year.

I managed a half hour today!

I would not normally photograph such little progress but here it is.

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Impressive I know. Green wheels now. Only possible through the kind paint purchase of my friend Andy.

Scratch build now six months work. I think I know why some stick to improving r-t-r, it is far quicker.

End in sight.,.....maybe. However, do not hold your breath.

Richard

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I have never had to retrieve the thread from the fourth page of content I follow before. It however sums up the situation at the moment. I have not done any modeling for over a month now as we close out the academic year.

I managed a half hour today!

I would not normally photograph such little progress but here it is.

attachicon.gifIMG_5762.JPG

Impressive I know. Green wheels now. Only possible through the kind paint purchase of my friend Andy.

Scratch build now six months work. I think I know why some stick to improving r-t-r, it is far quicker.

End in sight.,.....maybe. However, do not hold your breath.

Richard

Hi Richard

 

Time is immaterial when building your own, the important thing is you are model making. I still have some locos from 1985 to finish. So enjoy what you do when you do it. 

Edited by Clive Mortimore
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The difference between you and I is that you are comfortable putting down a project and starting another, then coming back to the first. I on the other hand prefer the one project at a time mode. That does mean some can at times feel like they drag, but on the plus side it should ensure they get finished. Only the gcr steam railmotor chassis defeating me entirely at the moment.

Richard

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The difference between you and I is that you are comfortable putting down a project and starting another, then coming back to the first. I on the other hand prefer the one project at a time mode. That does mean some can at times feel like they drag, but on the plus side it should ensure they get finished. Only the gcr steam railmotor chassis defeating me entirely at the moment.

Richard

Yes but no but yes but no but

 

So, I have a more relaxed attitude to what I do. In fact sometimes I surprise myself and do something with my models, but finish them? Nah, why spoil a lifetimes habit.

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Yes but no but yes but no but

 

So, I have a more relaxed attitude to what I do. In fact sometimes I surprise myself and do something with my models, but finish them? Nah, why spoil a lifetimes habit.

Your more relaxed because you are retired.
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Motor in, brakes on, pick ups fitted.

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Work now on the outside cranks. Question: do people solder the crank pin on these romford ones, even though they screw in the back and then the washer screws in the front? Yes to both soldered or just the pin or just the washer?

Richard

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Up close, how much and which bits have people soldered, super glued etc.

I am thinking solder the extended axels, solder/ glue back of crank pin . Solder crank pin washer to crank pin.

Ideas?

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Even if not used these, mechanical what are people's thoughts?

Many thanks

Richard

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Hi Richard

 

If screwed up as designed I don't think you need to add the complication of soldering them. It would be a blighter to get off should you need to. The old style Romford crank pin washers are soldered because there is no other way of keeping them on.

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