MikeTrice Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 Could not resist putting these up The daylight under the smokebox door is where I had to cut away part of the blanking piece behind so the chassis would slip in. Things are quite tight in there! 15 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Harrison Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 That is very impressive; it just looks so 'right'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 If the chimney is hollow, try putting a long piece of snug-fitting dowel or rod inside it (turn a matching taper on the end of the dowel first if necessary) then you'll have vastly more chance of getting it vertical either by eye or with the aid of a big square. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
runs as required Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 (edited) I tried attaching the chimney again and still was not happy ..... I look at it and it looks OK, then I look later in the day and it looks off... I bet that happened so often with the prototypes too in Victorian erecting shops. dh [edit - in those pics above - especially the one from front 3/4 eye level - the chimbley looks plumb. Use of a square (and spirit level) would provide confirmation] Edited February 7, 2015 by runs as required Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 If you use a soft metal rod, then once the model is complete you can put a bend in it, and cover it with cotton wool to produce the volcanic eruption from the chimney. There's plenty of photos of these machines opened out on fast sections, and the prodigious exhaust thrown high dwarfs the loco! Lovely job. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 7, 2015 Author Share Posted February 7, 2015 If the chimney is hollow, try putting a long piece of snug-fitting dowel or rod inside it (turn a matching taper on the end of the dowel first if necessary) then you'll have vastly more chance of getting it vertical either by eye or with the aid of a big square. That was my second attempt. It looked perfect until I moved it to photograph the set-up then it seemed to go out of true. Never did resolve why. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Unknown Warrior Posted February 7, 2015 Share Posted February 7, 2015 Fantastic. I have only just found this thread. What a magnificent project! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 For the smokebox door handles I am using a set of Alan Gibson's. These come with a turned spindle that would have meant filing of Jason's carefully applied detail. As Jason's is more accurate instead I drilled the centre of the smokebox and glued in a length of 0.45mm N/S wire (for some reason I think of Pinocchio when I see this image): The turned handles have been slipped over the spindle and as supplied are too large so will need trimming down: In the next installment you will see how they turned out. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Those of you with a weak disposition look away now. It might, or might not, be apparent from the photos that part of the front footplate overlay was not stuck down correctly. To resolve this I drilled a hole through the overlay and flooded it with solvent. Unfortunately so much solvent was applied that the overlay melted as can be seen here: The only option I could see was to remove the overlay ready to replace it: The only good news is you can see the finished smokebox door handles: **** SPOILER ALERT **** Things get worse in the next episode! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Here is Emily as I left her: Note that there is a big gap between the slidebars and the footplate. On the prototype there is no such gap: In reality my forward footplate is too high, a situation I felt needed to be addressed. Oh well, here I have cut away the forward footplate section and I also decided to shorten the forward side tanks: Here I have started adding styrene to extend the tanks downwards: By checking the maximum amount that the cylinders can be recessed into the body I should be able to come up with something closer to the prototype. All filling has now been put aside to harden overnight. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
runs as required Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 OMG Shock ! Horror ! dh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 So you're actually going to end up with a scratchbuilt loco Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelson Jackson Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Wow those images are shocking, although it does show your strong dedication to get things right and perfect, and I respect you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Harrison Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 *gasp* It takes real dedication to take the model back to bits so close to the finish to get it closer to prototype. That deserves respect. I'm sure even though it's set you back a little ways the finished model will be so much the better for it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGC Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Here is Emily as I left her: Note that there is a big gap between the slidebars and the footplate. On the prototype there is no such gap: Hi Mike I hope you don't mind me commenting that to my eyes, one of the things that let's your model down is the difference in looks between the model and the prototype slide bars and crosshead. I realise that part of the allure of this job is to get a loco that looks right from the Emily starting point, but with all the work you've gone to to get the body right, will you be addressing this area of the chassis or just leaving it as it is? Phil Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 I was not planning to, but you never know, I might change my mind. Gentlemen, we can rebuild her. We have the technology. Emily will be that woman. Better than she was before..... Yes, it might have been quicker to scratchbuild or even 3D print. That was always plan "B", but I like a challange. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
emt_911 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 All I can say is, "we are not worthy". Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 All I can say is, "we are not worthy". Rubbish. All I am doing is bodging my way through this. If I had done it properly by working out before hand what I should do, things might have been different. Instead I have worked it out as I go, so it is my own fault really. I will get there eventually, then comes the dreaded painting. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThePurplePrimer Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 You did what !!!! All that work and you just cut it back - see that's dedication to getting it right Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold JCL Posted February 9, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 9, 2015 "or even 3D print" - I'm not so sure about that. One can keep tweaking a 3D print for months with no actual physical output at all. Sorry to see you've had to make such drastic changes Mike, there's not many things harder than going back and doing the same thing a second time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Mike yes should have had an 18 certificate on those photos. You are right no matter how well we do some modelling if we know there is an error that is all we see....best wishes for the future work....I am really enjoying this thread.... Not least....and I mean this well that you are mortal after all....gives me hope for my own efforts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
46256 Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Mike not seeing this in the flesh so to speak might be underestimating the work required....but I'm sure those slide bars cross head and rod could be worked on. Best wishes Brian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
runs as required Posted February 9, 2015 Share Posted February 9, 2015 Be honest please. Hands up - how many of you apart from Mike Trice had actually noted the excessive gap between front footplate and slidebars.? I have to admit to only 'reading' (and enjoying) the overall proportion of the model compared to the prototype. And that's despite frequent visits down to Shildon and drooling over the real loco oh - and building the Kitmaster model long ago. dh Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Not least....and I mean this well that you are mortal after all....gives me hope for my own efforts. I have always believed in publishing my mistakes as well as successes. That is how we all learn. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeTrice Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 I have to admit to only 'reading' (and enjoying) the overall proportion of the model compared to the prototype. She will never be perfect due to the overlarge driving wheels and distorted body but I am curious to how far I can push her, so the change had to be made. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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