Kirkby Luneside

[Physicsman]

Quick update on "progress" (I find that concept amusing bearing in mind I'm where I was, track-wise etc, at the end of September).

 

I've been cutting the cork around the track for the range of ballast shoulders/different ballast depths that will eventually appear. I'd done this, prior to griming, with the OO arrangement, but it's all being done again as the position of a lot of the trackwork is different.

 

Not photogenic - so no pics.

 

Jeff

Edited December 2, 2016 by Physicsman

[peach james]

Jeff, can you not get a more recent throttle for the Lenz system?  I know that my Digitrax DT400 is now obsolete due to the same issue- it goes to F12, but I have sound locos with F18+ on them... (the VIA LRC).  I have NO idea what the station sounds are like, or any easy way to trip them.  (I suspect I could do it by using JMRI-Computer-Digitrax to act as a throttle...)

 

Anyway, I would suggest you consider what the upgrade path best suited to you looks like- because more features is not always required...it's not like the extra 1.8mm, which is fairly apparent in places !

 

James

[Andrew P]

Just thought I'd pop in and see if anyone was up

 

Dee and I cant sleep, as she's in pain, and I have plans for Beale St going around in my head.

 

No new pics yet?   :nono:    

[jukebox]

Just thought I'd pop in and see if anyone was up

 

Dee and I cant sleep, as she's in pain, and I have plans for Beale St going around in my head.

 

No new pics yet?   :nono:    

 

If you're going to run Beale Street around inside your head, that's be some harsh minimum radii, Andy... ;-P

[Physicsman]

Just thought I'd pop in and see if anyone was up

 

Dee and I cant sleep, as she's in pain, and I have plans for Beale St going around in my head.

 

No new pics yet?   :nono:    

 

Hope Dee is better now, Andy.

 

Cutting cork sheet and soldering PCB sleeper isn't the most exciting thing to photograph. But I'll put a couple of pics up later, just to make the thread look a bit more attractive.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Here's a few pics, freshly snapped in the Bunker.

 

Basically, cork underlay has been stripped back, especially around the dual main line, to allow for ballast shoulders: deepest at the side of the main lines. This is fairly clear on the images with the overbridge, not so clear when looking across the goods area.

 

The first pic shows one side of the lift-out section with its collection of gapped PCB sleepers.

 

 

 

 

 

Jeff

Edited December 2, 2016 by Physicsman

[Physicsman]

Jeff, can you not get a more recent throttle for the Lenz system?  I know that my Digitrax DT400 is now obsolete due to the same issue- it goes to F12, but I have sound locos with F18+ on them... (the VIA LRC).  I have NO idea what the station sounds are like, or any easy way to trip them.  (I suspect I could do it by using JMRI-Computer-Digitrax to act as a throttle...)

 

Anyway, I would suggest you consider what the upgrade path best suited to you looks like- because more features is not always required...it's not like the extra 1.8mm, which is fairly apparent in places !

 

James

James, thanks for your usual thoughtful comments.

 

On a slightly different note, are you still interested in buying some of my "old" Marcway turnouts. I've got quite a stock including 6 RH and 6 LH turnouts at 54"/60" radius and 3 LH turnouts at 54/36" radius.

 

The RH and LH points are probably mostly 54" with a couple of 60s mixed in.

 

Let me know if you're interested.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

The excess cork has nearly all been removed now. Here are a couple of images showing the main line passing through the platform area.

 

The existing platforms no longer match the track, and will be re-done shortly. I'll try and build the skeleton, minus the "finished" top this coming week. The blue lines to either side of the track on the first pic give the approximate location of where the front faces (not the overhang of the top) will be.

 

 

 

"Conventional" wisdom from this little ditty (found it on the internet a few years back)

 

 

is that the distance from track centre to edge of platform top ("B" on the diagram) should be 18mm for OO/EM. Since my platform tops will overhang a scale 6-9" (depending on how well I cut them!! So, 2-3mm), that makes platform face to track centre = 21mm-ish.

 

Rail-to-track centre for EM is around 9mm. So outside rail-platform face, allowing for rail thickness, comes in at around 12mm, which is what I'll use.

 

Hope that all makes sense!

 

Finally, a view along the viaduct, showing the trimmed cork, which will allow a nice ballast shoulder as the ballast moves from track to viaduct wall.

 

 

Jeff

Edited December 3, 2016 by Physicsman

[Physicsman]

Today, I have mostly been playing with plywood.....

 

I've drawn out the outline for the Down platform (onto 12mm ply), and this will be cut out tomorrow using a jig-saw. The cut-out will be used as a template for an extra 4mm ply depth and an 80thou plastikard top will give the 18mm depth I need. Since the rail tops, on cork, sit 6mm above the ground, the 12mm difference should be about correct.

 

If not, "shimmies" of 40thou sheet can add any extra required depth.

 

I've also started work on the control panel for the fiddle yard. Switches and LEDs are in place, so I'll start wiring tomorrow and hope to have it in place by Tuesday/Wednesday.

 

I've also done a little bit of running, again playing with the CV settings of the class 24.

 

Jeff

[Donw]

Nice job on the trackwork Jeff. It does make a difference. I have Lenz systems too. The original was the compact (still works) but I upgraded to the bigger system. You can use either the LH100 or LH90 I have both I like the Knob control for driving but the LH100 is better for programming. I also have three cordless controllers the base unit plugs into the Lenz jacks. It went off the market possibly not for UK use. Which is a pity because it is a good idea. Worth thinking about wireless cabs if you do upgrade. 

 

Don

[Jason T]

Controllers are very much a personal preference, and I prefer speed control to be by dial rather than buttons, which is why I went for Digitrax (which has the added benefit of having two dials so two locos can be operated at once without having to bang in addresses all the time or needing two handsets).

[Andrew P]

I've just bought a new Controller for Beale St, Nothing wrong with the Prodigy, but I wanted a simple Panel Mounted with easy but full control. Having tried the Sig naTrack, MADE IN MANCHESTER, on a couple of occasions now I felt it was right for my needs and has more capability than the Prodigy in its control functions. It does / can come with a very basic 4 function hand controller with knob and switching from main panel to hand held is a simple case of touching the Hand Held pad on the screen. Control movement on the screen can be either touch pads or slider and is very smooth and sweet. the basic screen shows the basic 12 functions and then touch the more button for a full 30 functions. It feels good quality and the Manufactures have an address and Local / Manchester phone No for any problems. AND THE BIGGEST BONUS it cost less than £180 Retail and I got mine for less than £150. A more powerful version is available for larger Layouts for under £200.

http://gfbdesigns.co.uk/page/640052-user-guides.aspx

Edited December 5, 2016 by Andrew P

[Physicsman]

Don, Jason, Andy - thanks for your input.

 

The Lenz system will remain for the time being - I'm spending far too much money on the railway at the moment! However, something will change next year and I've already started looking at potential alternatives.

 

The Bunker has been warming for the last 2 hours. It was - 5C outside at 7am, so I'm definitely not freezing my **** off until the interior is tolerable!

 

Jeff

[Andrew P]

Don, Jason, Andy - thanks for your input.

 

The Lenz system will remain for the time being - I'm spending far too much money on the railway at the moment! However, something will change next year and I've already started looking at potential alternatives.

 

The Bunker has been warming for the last 2 hours. It was - 5C outside at 7am, so I'm definitely not freezing my **** off until the interior is tolerable!

 

Jeff

Don't you have a small Night Heater that come on, on a timer for a couple of Hours just to keep it above zero?  My small heater panel comes on from 2 till 5 and when I go in about 9.30 it's not cold, not warm either, but definitely not cold.

 

EDIT = Just to say that the Night Heater is on a separate ring main in the Shed so that all the other sockets etc are off.

Edited December 5, 2016 by Andrew P

[Physicsman]

Don't you have a small Night Heater that come on, on a timer for a couple of Hours just to keep it above zero?  My small heater panel comes on from 2 till 5 and when I go in about 9.30 it's not cold, not warm either, but definitely not cold.

 

EDIT = Just to say that the Night Heater is on a separate ring main in the Shed so that all the other sockets etc are off.

 

Hi Andy.

 

The Bunker is so well insulated that even with the outside temperature at -6C, the Bunker temperature was 14C.

 

I put an oil heater on for a couple of hours at around 7am and the Bunker goes to about 16-17C and stays there during the day.

 

A timer would be a good idea, though.

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

Today's efforts have been a mixture of success and failure.

 

Success-wise, the Fiddle Yard control panel is 70% complete and will be fitted in place and operational by the end of tomorrow.

 

Part success - the Down platform. Yes, the straight bit was easy, but I misjudged the curved section. Oops! I'll use some proper tracing paper in the next day-or-so, make a proper template and re-cut the thing.

 

All good fun!

 

Jeff

[Physicsman]

I've always liked the good old analogue mimic panel for switching turnouts, and the first 2 pics show the fiddle yard board now fixed in place and fully operational.

 

Additional roads may be added in the future - an easy mod to make to the panel, if needed.

 

Turnouts are thrown using "analogue" Cobalts running at around 11-12V off a smoothed DC power supply.

 

The LED indicators are actually green and red, though the colour balance in the Bunker shows them to verge on yellowish and orange.

 

 

 

The third pic is the existing panel for the scenic area, made earlier this year.

 

 

Jeff

 

Edit: The panels can always be "glammed up" a bit, if necessary. But they're clear, they work, so why bother?

Edited December 6, 2016 by Physicsman

[Donw]

Panels look good Jeff. I seem to remember reading somewhere the original cobalts ran better near to 7v . The later ones are better able to cope with higher voltage. If the voltage is definitely no more than 12v should be ok.

 

Don

[Physicsman]

Cheers Don. I can't comment on newer Cobalts - mine date from 2013 - but the most of the ones I'm using seem happy to switch at 7V. The occasional one "digs its heels in" and needs a 12V kick to get moving.

 

And don't get me started on the "clickers". I've a pile of half a dozen clickers and a couple of " stickers" have gone in the bin. I do like Cobalts but some of the initial claims about how faultless they are were just rubbish.

 

KL had 40 turnouts, each with a Cobalt. KL2 has 25 Cobalts and I've 3 reliable spares....

 

Jeff

Edited December 7, 2016 by Physicsman

[Physicsman]

To keep things ticking over - Update...

 

I've spent a couple of hours working on the platforms. I should have everything cut to shape by tomorrow, and may get part of the 80thou tops on.

 

Photos will be forthcoming.

 

Jeff

[Andrew P]

Hi Jeff, Thanks for your kind words on Beale St, I do look in here every day and that control panel is looking very good, I'm looking forward to seeing more scenic developments over the coming Months.

 

Keep the faith, hahhaha

 

Excellent stuff mate.

[Scott B]

Cheers Don. I can't comment on newer Cobalts - mine date from 2013 - but the most of the ones I'm using seem happy to switch at 7V. The occasional one "digs its heels in" and needs a 12V kick to get moving.

 

And don't get me started on the "clickers". I've a pile of half a dozen clickers and a couple of " stickers" have gone in the bin. I do like Cobalts but some of the initial claims about how faultless they are were just rubbish.

 

KL had 40 turnouts, each with a Cobalt. KL2 has 25 Cobalts and I've 3 reliable spares....

 

Jeff

 

Why in the bin Jeff, that is madness even if only 2.

They have a warranty and it is honoured.

The earlier ones did occasionally click, mine were replaced no bother at all, direct from Oz. The new IP ones are a different class and I believe there is now a UK presence as well.

Get in contact with DCC supplies my man, even if you end up with a pile of spares.

 

Things looking good on KL2

 

Scott

[Physicsman]

Very true, Scott.

 

I have had 6 replaced while working on the original KL. The units were bought from Gaugemaster, who replaced them with no questions asked.

 

I gather there are a number of variants now, including the IP Digitals. Am I correct that the older version is now sold as "Classic"?

 

I've no interest in operating turnouts via DCC, as I've found traditional DC works perfectly well. For loco operation, though, DCC has been in use for ten years.

 

Jeff

[Andrew P]

Morning Jeff, I tried Digital Point operation when I was building Bitton and with just 11 Points it drove me mad. Switches is the best way, I did enjoy the Peco lever frame I used on Pencarne and will do the same on Beale St and for the next OO project as I feel it's more like a real Signal Box and seeing the Signals and Points change as you pull the leaver off is nice.

[Physicsman]

Morning Jeff, I tried Digital Point operation when I was building Bitton and with just 11 Points it drove me mad. Switches is the best way, I did enjoy the Peco lever frame I used on Pencarne and will do the same on Beale St and for the next OO project as I feel it's more like a real Signal Box and seeing the Signals and Points change as you pull the leaver off is nice.

 

Everyone has their own preference, but flicking a switch on a mimic board appeals to me. I'm certainly not a Luddite, but it's nice to see a physical bank of switches in front of you!

 

Pouring down here, which may curtail cutting the remainder of the ply for the platforms....

 

Jeff