RMweb Gold 5BarVT Posted March 23 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23 Assuming your not using a live frame on one side, or having front axle only for one side, don’t you need a further cut in the PCBs? Paul. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 23 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 23 1 hour ago, 5BarVT said: Assuming your not using a live frame on one side, or having front axle only for one side, don’t you need a further cut in the PCBs? Paul. Live frame. Each pair of turned drivers has one insulated wheel (on the right) and one on the left (plain), so only one pickup per axle. 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 24 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 24 No railway action to report as we went on a short harbour cruise today. I'm too lazy to write it all out again, so if you're interested you can go here: 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post St Enodoc Posted March 25 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 25 Back to 2182 this afternoon. The first job was to fit an extra bearing as recommended by Mike @Coach bogie, which will hereinafter be referred to as the Wiltshire bearing. The bearing itself is a short length of K&S brass tube, which just happens to be a nice running fit on the 1.5mm motor shaft. It's soldered into a hole in a piece of .015" brass that I happened to find in the Useful Box. I tried a U shape initially but couldn't get the bends exactly right, so I chopped off one side to make an L-bracket. I think it will be fine. You can't see it here, but before soldering the bracket to the gearbox frame I cut another short length of tube to go between the worm and the motor, to cut down the end play on the shaft and keep the armature windings in line with the magnet pole pieces. The motor and gearbox ran very nicely on a 9V dc battery, so I left them at that. Next, I filed down the faces of the middle axle bearings to increase the sideplay on that axle. The minimum radius 2182 will have to traverse is 670mm on the Wheal Veronica branch and earlier testing suggested that was a bit tight. After filing there's about another 1mm of sideplay. Here's the chassis on a piece of Hornby 3rd Radius (505mm) track. It sits and rolls very nicely, so 670mm radius will be no problem. Of course, that extra sideplay would be no use if it was restricted by the coupling rods, so I fitted a couple of ancient Romford crankpin washers to each side of the leading and trailing axles. Again, the complete chassis ran smoothly on 9V dc so I stopped there for the day. This kit doesn't include any brake blocks. Somewhere I've got some plastic ones, so if I can find them I'll add those to give an impression of some brake gear. Apart from that, it's now time to run in the chassis properly on the rolling road before dismantling it again for painting. If anyone thinks I've missed anything before I paint the chassis, please let me know! 27 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
1466 Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 I believe that Alan Gibson makes plastic brake blocks . From memory, they are on a circular sprue . 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erudhalion Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 10 hours ago, St Enodoc said: [...] The minimum radius 2182 will have to traverse is 670mm on the Wheal Veronica branch and earlier testing suggested that was a bit tight. After filing there's about another 1mm of sideplay. [...] Just out of interest, what's the total amount of sideplay on your chassis? I was looking at my etched chassis on my 2021 the other day and wondering what kind of radius it could get round, and if I might need to increase the sideplay on the middle axle. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 25 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25 3 hours ago, Erudhalion said: Just out of interest, what's the total amount of sideplay on your chassis? I was looking at my etched chassis on my 2021 the other day and wondering what kind of radius it could get round, and if I might need to increase the sideplay on the middle axle. I'll take some measurements next time I remove the wheels. The gaps between the wheels and frames are too small to get my verynears into. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold 5BarVT Posted March 25 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 25 Not come across a verynear before. I rather like it. Paul. 4 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 25 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25 6 minutes ago, 5BarVT said: Not come across a verynear before. I rather like it. Paul. That's cos you ain't a mechanical engineer... 1 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 25 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25 40 minutes ago, St Enodoc said: I'll take some measurements next time I remove the wheels. The gaps between the wheels and frames are too small to get my verynears into. Right, the sideplay on the middle axle with the reduced bearing flanges is 1.7mm and on the leading and trailing axles with the full bearing flanges it is 0.7mm. Hope that helps. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erudhalion Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 6 minutes ago, St Enodoc said: Right, the sideplay on the middle axle with the reduced bearing flanges is 1.7mm and on the leading and trailing axles with the full bearing flanges it is 0.7mm. Hope that helps. Thank you very much, I'll check my chassis and see what the situation is. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted March 26 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26 On 25/03/2024 at 07:09, St Enodoc said: Back to 2182 this afternoon. The first job was to fit an extra bearing as recommended by Mike @Coach bogie, which will hereinafter be referred to as the Wiltshire bearing. The bearing itself is a short length of K&S brass tube, which just happens to be a nice running fit on the 1.5mm motor shaft. It's soldered into a hole in a piece of .015" brass that I happened to find in the Useful Box. I tried a U shape initially but couldn't get the bends exactly right, so I chopped off one side to make an L-bracket. I think it will be fine. You can't see it here, but before soldering the bracket to the gearbox frame I cut another short length of tube to go between the worm and the motor, to cut down the end play on the shaft and keep the armature windings in line with the magnet pole pieces. The motor and gearbox ran very nicely on a 9V dc battery, so I left them at that. Next, I filed down the faces of the middle axle bearings to increase the sideplay on that axle. The minimum radius 2182 will have to traverse is 670mm on the Wheal Veronica branch and earlier testing suggested that was a bit tight. After filing there's about another 1mm of sideplay. Here's the chassis on a piece of Hornby 3rd Radius (505mm) track. It sits and rolls very nicely, so 670mm radius will be no problem. Of course, that extra sideplay would be no use if it was restricted by the coupling rods, so I fitted a couple of ancient Romford crankpin washers to each side of the leading and trailing axles. Again, the complete chassis ran smoothly on 9V dc so I stopped there for the day. This kit doesn't include any brake blocks. Somewhere I've got some plastic ones, so if I can find them I'll add those to give an impression of some brake gear. Apart from that, it's now time to run in the chassis properly on the rolling road before dismantling it again for painting. If anyone thinks I've missed anything before I paint the chassis, please let me know! I put brakes and sandpipes (fit to frames, not to footplate) on before painting. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 26 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 26 10 minutes ago, Michael Edge said: I put brakes and sandpipes (fit to frames, not to footplate) on before painting. Ah, sandpipes! Forgot about them. And guard irons... 3 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 27 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 27 (edited) I've been fettling, on and off, today and I've got 2182 running smoothly on the leading and trailing wheels, without coupling rods, down to about 15rpm. If I've done my sums right, that's about a scale 3 mph. I think the limiting factor there is my dc controller, rather than the motor and drive train (that's my story and I'm sticking to it). That's better than some of my other locos, so I'll gradually reassemble the chassis, fettling as I go if necessary. I haven't done anything about the chassis detailing parts yet. A kind RMwebber is sending me some Iain Rice/Mainly Trains etched brake blocks, which is good as I can't find the plastic ones that I thought I had, while I'll make the sandpipes and guard irons from wire and scrap etch respectively. They will be representative/impressionistic rather than true-to-scale, I'm afraid. Finally for tonight, Harold (Mr Modratec) sent me this link, which I found very interesting yet poignant. See what you think: https://youtu.be/tHPh82PzDMM?si=5IODZZkFIB6QFt1s Edited March 27 by St Enodoc correct supplier 18 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BWsTrains Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 15 hours ago, St Enodoc said: which I found very interesting yet poignant. I'm hard pressed to think of another 21C technology dependent on the proper working and operation of an integrated 19C technology system (from circa 1870 according to The Signal Box). No five quids on offer for anyone naming one though, (sorry, I'm clean out) 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Annie Posted March 28 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28 16 hours ago, St Enodoc said: Finally for tonight, Harold (Mr Modratec) sent me this link, which I found very interesting yet poignant. See what you think: https://youtu.be/tHPh82PzDMM?si=5IODZZkFIB6QFt1s A pity about the lack of proper trains running past outside. 1 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coach bogie Posted March 28 Share Posted March 28 Close to UK home is Heighington, built in 1872. Another claim to fame, this station saw the departure of the first, steam hauled passenger train behind Locomotion no1. The 19th century box controls the entrance to the 21st century Hitachi factory building the Azumas amongst others. Still in operation, not due to close, along with Shildon Box until 2027. Mike Wiltshire 16 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28 1 hour ago, Annie said: A pity about the lack of proper trains running past outside. Better than no trains at all... 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 28 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28 1 hour ago, Coach bogie said: Close to UK home is Heighington, built in 1872. Another claim to fame, this station saw the departure of the first, steam hauled passenger train behind Locomotion no1. The 19th century box controls the entrance to the 21st century Hitachi factory building the Azumas amongst others. Still in operation, not due to close, along with Shildon Box until 2027. Mike Wiltshire Yes, when I visited No 2 daughter in Shildon last year I was amazed to see that the box was still open, with some semaphore signals too! 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Barry O Posted March 28 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 28 Next video in that sequence was.. Chapel en le Frith.. Baz 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post St Enodoc Posted March 29 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 29 After a late breakfast of hot cross buns with Rose's English Breakfast marmalade, it was time to have a go at 2182's guard irons and sandpipes. I found some old bits of etch - I think they actually came from some Fox nameplates - that are about 1.5 mm wide. A bit more than scale, I think, but the convenience outweighed that. I filed one end to a semi-circle but didn't bother trying to taper them. Next I bent a dog-leg on each one, so that the lower end of the guard iron is in line with the rail. It was then relatively easy to sweat these to the outside of the frames at each end. I did try to work out the scale position but, in the end, the frame spacer screws provided a convenient datum. The rear irons should have a strut behind them but I've left this off at the moment for fear of the whole lot coming undone if I try and solder it in. We'll see. The sandpipes are 0.55mm brass wire, another find in the Useful Box. I drilled through the frames at each corner, so that I could pass the wire through and form a U-shape with the pipe at roughly 45 degrees to the rail and clearing the flange so I can still remove and refit the wheels. My box of drills jumps from 73 to 76, so no 73 it was. Again, the sandpipes are aligned with the rails and I trimmed them so that they end about 1mm above rail level. Here's the state of play so far: I think that's it for the chassis until the brake blocks arrive. I could start the body but it's more likely that I'll do something completely different - possibly starting to install the uncouplers at Pentowan? 24 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted March 29 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 29 I would have soldered up the spacers, then removed the unsightly screws and filled the holes - or just filed them right back. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 29 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 29 4 minutes ago, Michael Edge said: I would have soldered up the spacers, then removed the unsightly screws and filled the holes - or just filed them right back. Thanks Mike. I could still do that, I think, or possibly remove the spacers altogether and replace them with PCB or flat brass. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
drduncan Posted March 29 Share Posted March 29 Rose’s lemon or lime marmalade? D 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium St Enodoc Posted March 29 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 29 15 minutes ago, drduncan said: Rose’s lemon or lime marmalade? D English Breakfast - fine-cut orange: https://www.coles.com.au/product/roses-english-breakfast-marmalade-jam-375g-6397687 Other retailers are available. 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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