TRETHEVY, WAS BODMIN SR circa 1930

[N15class]

I would make it 5'6" as you propose. It will be useful for locos with pony trucks / radial axles / bogies etc, especially with outside cylinders. It is not a layout where it could be a source of frustration.

That was my thoughts, if it became a problem I can always change it to straight track.

[N15class]

Peter,

 

I can see this being useful - the Great Windowledge had a pair of opposed Peco crossovers (well, one was Peco, one was copperclad, nominally 6') with the intent of being able to test and subsequently fettle locos or anything else, which I guess is your intent.  Of course, if you can't manage a "left-right, right-left" you have to turn the stock to test it both ways, but as you can build this in, and I guess in the scenic part, I think it's got to be a bonus to have it.

 

edit - sorry, just one thought - is 330mm of arc enough to hold the largest loco you'll want to test on it?  Thinking particularly of loco-tender connections?

 

HTH

Simon

I just want to make sure that what I build goes through Peco points without using their track. I have used 1 in 6 with 31.5mm gauge for the points. I can't get more than 330mm as it would be wider than the board. I can see modern locos being a bit long I think you will have the front going the opposite to the rear. I know my 0395 will sit within 330mm. Would it be a bit much askinga black five or similar to go around 5'6" anyway? 

 

I made the scissor crossing to get all possible directions without turning around. I think it is as I said before if it causes problems I can replace it with straight track.

[Simond]

Hi Peter

 

All my locos will do a Peco crossover, including the 47xx NightOwl, Castle, King, etc. The only really difficult one was the 52xx 2-8-0, which required a joggle in the frames to allow extra clearance for the rear axle to shift sideways (quite a lot, maybe 2mm each way) with the front and third axles shimmed to minimum clearance. I've no idea what you'd do with a 72...

 

Your scissors will do everything, of course, I'd forgotten about that! I'm guessing the reverse curve is a little tighter?

 

Best

Simon

[N15class]

Hi Peter

 

All my locos will do a Peco crossover, including the 47xx NightOwl, Castle, King, etc. The only really difficult one was the 52xx 2-8-0, which required a joggle in the frames to allow extra clearance for the rear axle to shift sideways (quite a lot, maybe 2mm each way) with the front and third axles shimmed to minimum clearance. I've no idea what you'd do with a 72...

 

Your scissors will do everything, of course, I'd forgotten about that! I'm guessing the reverse curve is a little tighter?

 

Best

Simon

Yes the reverse curve is 6" smaller radius. The points are 1 in 6 so are a little tighter than the Peco ones. I think the Peco points and my A6 are both about 6' nominal radius.

[Simond]

I recall a discussion about Peco points, might be in the Templot forum on RMWeb, where the conclusion was that their geometry is quite odd - I think they have a "tight bit" in the middle.  I'll try to find it.

 

best

Simon

[Guest Isambarduk]

Just a thought: in planning a layout, reverse curves of constant radius are best avoided.  Wherever possible, the prototype endeavoured to have two transitions curves with a short straight in between so that the potential for buffer locking was avoided.  Not always possible on a model, I know, but it does look so much more realistic.  David

[N15class]

I recall a discussion about Peco points, might be in the Templot forum on RMWeb, where the conclusion was that their geometry is quite odd - I think they have a "tight bit" in the middle.  I'll try to find it.

 

best

Simon

 

He sent me a copy. But I did not fancy converting to 31.5mm. Which is why I sort of settled with what I have done.

[N15class]

Just a thought: in planning a layout, reverse curves of constant radius are best avoided.  Wherever possible, the prototype endeavoured to have two transitions curves with a short straight in between so that the potential for buffer locking was avoided.  Not always possible on a model, I know, but it does look so much more realistic.  David

Hi David.

I purely wanted. To do something to make sure my models would work either when sold or on my layout. About as close as you get to a bendy bit of track on Bodmin is a curve onto the goods shed and old turn table sidings. And a little curve under the bridge on the way out. It is one of the reasons I chose it. It looks like a model railway before you start.

[N15class]

I took the track to the house today. But did not have time to get very far with it. I did have a play with a 4 wheeled wagon. I need to ajust a couple check rails and possibly other bits to get it to roll smoothly in all directions. Just resting on the board it looks like the ideas will work.

[N15class]

Well railway model productivity has been zero, kitchen almost refitted. I did though however get a photo of the track all restinf on the base boards. I have also taken the scissors back to the apartment so I can work on it in the evenings and get it right. I have also this timeaset ofwheels and a a wagon for testing.

 

I am sure it will not take much to sort the problems. I did notice I have got a wing rail set to far out.

 

 

 

Looking at things whilst it was on the base board. Tome it looked likethe idea will work well, you will see that I have added a littleto the near end, I thought I might build something over 350mm lonf, so now have 500mm which should cover most things.

 

[Simond]

Pete

 

the scissors looks excellent!  nice one!

Simon

[hayfield]

Peter

 

Nice piece of work

[2ManySpams]

Well railway model productivity has been zero, kitchen almost refitted. I did though however get a photo of the track all restinf on the base boards. I have also taken the scissors back to the apartment so I can work on it in the evenings and get it right. I have also this timeaset ofwheels and a a wagon for testing.

 

I am sure it will not take much to sort the problems. I did notice I have got a wing rail set to far out.

 

 

a.jpg

b.jpg

 

Looking at things whilst it was on the base board. Tome it looked likethe idea will work well, you will see that I have added a littleto the near end, I thought I might build something over 350mm lonf, so now have 500mm which should cover most things.

500mm you say...that's more than long enough for a T9, N or even a WC/BoB.

[Donw]

Full size turnouts have three elements the crossing angle, the closure rail curvature and the switch which can be a straight angle, a straight bit then a curve (semi curved) or fully curved.  In many cases the switch part has an effective radius larger than the closure rail this gives a bit of transition which helps the loco into the curve. This is so much less of a problem in our models. Peco have I believe used a sharper angled switch to shorten the length of a turnout without increasing the closure radius. It makes little difference to the running but watching a bogie engine e.g a Castle, enter a Peco turnout can look a bit odd as the body seem to lag behind the bogie in taking the curve. This is partly due to using a sharper turnout than would commonly be used but aggravated by the sharper switch.

Don

[N15class]

500mm you say...that's more than long enough for a T9, N or even a WC/BoB.

I think there will be adjustment when it comes to fitting it down, I will see how much space a MN and a 59 foot coach takes up and make sure there is clearence from the point blades.

[N15class]

Pete

 

the scissors looks excellent!  nice one!

Simon

 

 

Peter

 

Nice piece of work

It will be even better when the snags are sorted. But I am happy with the result so far. It is not so forgiving as the copper clad and rivit methods I have used in the past for my 00 and EM track builds.

[hayfield]

It will be even better when the snags are sorted. But I am happy with the result so far. It is not so forgiving as the copper clad and rivit methods I have used in the past for my 00 and EM track builds.

 

 

Peter

 

One method I have used is a composite method, using some copperclad timbers with small packing pieces (1mm in 7 mm scale) which when fitted can be ground back to the rail sides and chairs fitted cosmetically. If using double sided copperclad as spacers there is no need to insulate the copperclad timbers, or you could solder metal chairs in place etc

[N15class]

Peter

 

One method I have used is a composite method, using some copperclad timbers with small packing pieces (1mm in 7 mm scale) which when fitted can be ground back to the rail sides and chairs fitted cosmetically. If using double sided copperclad as spacers there is no need to insulate the copperclad timbers, or you could solder metal chairs in place etc

I think next time I will make the crossing wing rails up as a unit. I did solder a strap underneath but I think it was the wrong way. Live and learn.

[hayfield]

Peter

 

I am always interested in seeing how differing modellers approach building tracks, and not being proud more than happy to use other's methods when they are better than mine (all of which I guess have been pinched/learnt from others. At the St Albans show I have looked closely at their ready built turnout and as you would expect from the builder an extremely high quality product

 

Now the common crossing is not pre built, a soldered up Vee but the wing/closure rails being held in place with various chairs. In 7 mm the shapeways LNER crossing and check rail chairs may be of use especially using the centre parts of crossing & check rail chairs and of course the crossing nose chair which is very distinctive and available in 3 differing 0 gauge standards

 

Photos seem to be not as good as before but look at all of the Off The Rails products which did seem excellent in earlier photos  

 

https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=7+mm+rail+chairs

[Simond]

I'm pretty much set up for the "vee & wing rails in one piece" approach. I haven't used them in anger yet, but had 1:6 & 1:8 jigs milled up in tufnol, so the rails drop in upside down and strips of 1mm brass are soldered across underneath. These are trimmed back to the rail edge, and Araldited to the timbers. Cosmetic chairs are fitted afterwards. I use halved C&L, but you could use 3D printed if you prefer.

 

This works with wooden, plastic or copperclad timbers, of course.

 

Best

Simon

[raymw]

About 12 years ago, I machined the aluminium assembly jigs for C&L 0 gauge point-work. In use, the V rail was simply machined at half the angle, dropped upside down into the slots, and then the bits of wing rail added. Small strips of brass were then soldered across the bases of the track. Afaik, the assembled unit was then supplied in their point kits.

 

Here's a photo of a couple of the prototypes. If you're only making a few points, then a simple jig made by screwing appropriately placed screws into a block of wood would be sufficient.

 

 

 

[Simond]

Ray,

 

Very nice.

 

I got mine done by the toolmaker at work, for the price of a box of Fosters "tinnies" - I had to buy the milling cutters too, not so onerous!!! The tufnol was some scrap we had in the bits bin.

 

Do you not find the ally is a bit too good as a heat sink?

 

Best

Simon

[raymw]

I never made the point-work, I just machined and sold the set of jigs, (probably half dozen different angles) to C&L. I did however use the No 6, no problem with soldering, plenty of heat in the iron, and in and out quick, as usual. The red felt tip marks were the location of sleepers, so I could see where to get the two or three brass strips in the correct place (between sleepers for my pcb soldered track).  The jigs need a couple of 6mm or so holes drilled through at the V, more or less, so the assembled rail can be pushed out from the slots by shoving a rod through said holes.

[Simond]

Ray

 

Thanks for the tip regarding the push-out holes!

 

Best

Simon

[N15class]

Peter

 

I am always interested in seeing how differing modellers approach building tracks, and not being proud more than happy to use other's methods when they are better than mine (all of which I guess have been pinched/learnt from others. At the St Albans show I have looked closely at their ready built turnout and as you would expect from the builder an extremely high quality product

 

Now the common crossing is not pre built, a soldered up Vee but the wing/closure rails being held in place with various chairs. In 7 mm the shapeways LNER crossing and check rail chairs may be of use especially using the centre parts of crossing & check rail chairs and of course the crossing nose chair which is very distinctive and available in 3 differing 0 gauge standards

Photos seem to be not as good as before but look at all of the Off The Rails products which did seem excellent in earlier photos  

 

https://www.shapeways.com/search?q=7+mm+rail+chairs

I looked at the chairs done by Off the Rails. I will into them some more, but I am happy using and cutting chairs. The layout does not have many 1 in 6 points, a couple of 1in 5 in the yard and 3, 1 in 6 slips. I also like to watch what others do and then use the good bits. 

 

I think I started to rush, which as you know is never a good way to get accurate results.