RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 4, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 4, 2015 Thanks to Chris I need to re draw the cottages. He noticed I had made an error in the window heights. I managed to draw them 42mm high rather than 32mm. Pleased it has been found now. But wish I had of got the new ruler visible numbers before starting rather than half way through. Sorry about that, always annoying when someone finds errors in something you've spent ages working on. Thankfully we spotted it before cutting anything more than paper. I must admit i only noticed it after i put the mock up on the layout and it looked tall compared to everything else - i first thought i'd printed them off wrong but then worked through your earlier dimensioned sketch and eventually spotted the problem. I must admit i'm considering scaling them down a little further still as they dominate the scene a little - something like 95%? Either way the sketches have been very very useful, many thanks. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 4, 2015 Author Share Posted December 4, 2015 No need to be sorry, I am just pleased it has been found before either of us did any building. I thought when I was drawing them up I would need to do the reduce them. I was thinking if it did not work full size I would take out one or possibly one and a half of the pairs. For me that would keep all the elements. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 The scissors looks like it'll be epic. Looking forward to that. I'm sure if you take it bit by bit, it'll actually go more smoothly than you expect. Best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Peter Like the way you jump right in, I am assuming you are making the common crossings as free standing components first. I have built a couple of these crossings and have found that the most crucial part in the build is fitting the central pair of common crossings. I look forward to seeing how you tackle this formation, no doubt I will learn some more techniques along the way Sorry to hear about the cottages 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 5, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 5, 2015 Peter, a few seconds with a knife, rule and some tape resulted in one section of the cottages reduced in height. For comparison here are the sections side by side: 10mm out of each window/door and it looks totally different. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted December 5, 2015 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 5, 2015 The end cottage in the photo appears to have an almost square frontage, plus the upstairs window is some way down from the eaves. Given that folk were generally shorter in stature when these would have been built, the Cornish physique especially so, then reducing the height / size overall should not detract from their impact, but would also make them appear further away, creating the illusion of distance. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 Peter Like the way you jump right in, I am assuming you are making the common crossings as free standing components first. I have built a couple of these crossings and have found that the most crucial part in the build is fitting the central pair of common crossings. I look forward to seeing how you tackle this formation, no doubt I will learn some more techniques along the way Sorry to hear about the cottages I built EM points on copperclad before but this is first go at 7mm and components. I am only doing this through necessity, I have 2.4m and if I put end to end as I was going to. The locos would not have any plain track either end. So we ended up with this. Handy too as I can stand in one spot and watch what happens to them working in all directions. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 5, 2015 Author Share Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) Peter, a few seconds with a knife, rule and some tape resulted in one section of the cottages reduced in height. For comparison here are the sections side by side: rps20151205_082544.jpg 10mm out of each window/door and it looks totally different. That looks good Chris. It is so obvious now you have corrected it. I am in the process of sticking A4 sheets together to re draw. I can also redraw the door on the left cottage and see if the dormers are in the right place up and down the roof. As an aside have you noticed that in most photos they seem to have washing in the gardens? Something to add when built. Must of been a nightmare keeping the whites white. Edited December 5, 2015 by N15class 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Isambarduk Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 (edited) "As an aside have you noticed that in most photos they seem to have washing in the gardens?" That must be because photos were (could?) only taken on sunny days :-) David Edited December 5, 2015 by Isambarduk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 5, 2015 Share Posted December 5, 2015 Interesting thought. Probably true. Good deduction. Unless they only took photos on Mondays... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 Here is a redraw of the cottages. They look a lot better and I have made a few other changes too. I swapped the handing of the left hand cottage. I did make one mistake I drew the right hand roof to high. I need to erase the top line once I have something to do it with. I have only the scans not a photo of the complete row. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2ManySpams Posted December 8, 2015 RMweb Premium Share Posted December 8, 2015 They look much better Pete. Printed out they now scale nicely against other objects on the layout. Many thanks for sharing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 8, 2015 Author Share Posted December 8, 2015 No problem Chris No need us both doing exactly the same thing. It also cures mistakes. I have decided the railway must of been well built up as it was "level" when the cottages have at least 3 foot run over their length. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Whilst I was getting a few bits from Roxey. I saw these from the old Southwark Bridge range. So thought I would get some and see if they will be of use as they are quite inexpensive, and there will be a lot of point rodding. I not sure if I am capable of assembling them neatly. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 12, 2015 Share Posted December 12, 2015 Peter, Having seen your loco builds on here, I'd be quite confident... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 I will no doubt find out. The rodding stools etch is tiny, it's about 40mm long. Managed to get about half the signal box redrawn from 12mm to 7mm. I think I have found a supplier here who sells 3mm light ply.Will get some on order so I can start doing some of the structures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 17, 2015 Author Share Posted December 17, 2015 I have been playing with the scissor crossing. It is slow work, I have only made soldered copper clad points before so using chairs and solvent is a big learning curve. The eagle eyed may notice that I am using up odd chairs. this is just because I have loads in stock . It has been interesting working out what chairs need leaving out and or cutting. I suppose in reality I have done about a third. I need a few more tools at home for this, to speed it up a little. I have nearly got two of the turnouts done I still need to get the middle bit sorted in my head. I also had a mental block about the electrics I think I have the some it sorted, but I really need to get to grips with what goes on in the middle. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted December 17, 2015 Share Posted December 17, 2015 Peter I have a nice little electrical diagram for a scissors but can't get at it until the weekend. The G0G manual has a diagram at 3.19a in the section on point wiring. If you're stuck, please send me a PM to remind me Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted December 18, 2015 Author Share Posted December 18, 2015 Peter I have a nice little electrical diagram for a scissors but can't get at it until the weekend. The G0G manual has a diagram at 3.19a in the section on point wiring. If you're stuck, please send me a PM to remind me Best Simon Thanks Simon I will have a look at the GOG manual. I have the track ones already printed out. So may well do the same with the electrics. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 2, 2016 Author Share Posted January 2, 2016 Firstly Happy New Year to you all. I have done a little more to the scissors for the test track. I am trying to get completed for next week as the material for the top of the test board is arriving. I will still need to do the tie bars, and some insulation cuts once done. To my eye it looks good, but I still have pushed nothing through what has been done so hopefully it will all work. It has been a great learning curve and there are some bits I would not be happy with on the layout. It will though make it much easier for me to get it right on the main boards. As long as the stock moves freely through the vees etc, I will be happy. If it is a little bumpy well it is a test track and is to test the working parts of my loco builds. Smooth track will not show whether the compensation or springing works. Hopefully next pics will be of it completed ready for fitting down. Now I need to find some centre biased, and micro switches to sort out the polarities. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 Finallythe scissor crossover is done as far as rail and chairs are concerned, I have a couple of bits that I need to get the the slitting saw out to adjust the ends of a couple of the diamond wing rails. I also added the ties on one set of switches using a method that I had read somewhere. I need to redo it as stupid here did not use double sided copper clad, so it is not insulated. But you will see the idea, the loop in the centre is for the drive mechanism. The loopcan even be outside the point. There is flexability and strength. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 8, 2016 Author Share Posted January 8, 2016 The rebuilt cupboard for the kitchen came today along with enough ply to make the tops for the test track and the the first two boards for Bodmin. I have got the test track board on the frame ready for fixing. It is as you can see quite high off the ground, just under eye level for me, so I can see what is happening with the under pinnings as the tests are done. I have enough space to add a back scene for photos, just need to get a decent, taller tripod now. Mine is of a height to take lovely pictures of the wall underneath. I will now have to finish the scissors and make the rest of the track. Sleepers were syained this evening. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 9, 2016 Author Share Posted January 9, 2016 I am now onto the plain track for the test track I have decided to put a small 5'6" reverse curve into one track. My thinking is that I needed something slightly smaller than the nominal 73" of the turnouts. What does every one think, is it needed or am I best keeping them straight? Will add a photo shortly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 Right here are the pictures. As you can see it is not very much in the way of a curve only about 330mm arc in each direction. But enough I think to give the chassis a rough time. Any as above your views are much appreciated. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 10, 2016 Share Posted January 10, 2016 (edited) Peter, I can see this being useful - the Great Windowledge had a pair of opposed Peco crossovers (well, one was Peco, one was copperclad, nominally 6') with the intent of being able to test and subsequently fettle locos or anything else, which I guess is your intent. Of course, if you can't manage a "left-right, right-left" you have to turn the stock to test it both ways, but as you can build this in, and I guess in the scenic part, I think it's got to be a bonus to have it. edit - sorry, just one thought - is 330mm of arc enough to hold the largest loco you'll want to test on it? Thinking particularly of loco-tender connections? HTH Simon Edited January 10, 2016 by Simond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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