TRETHEVY, WAS BODMIN SR circa 1930

[N15class]

About 12 years ago, I machined the aluminium assembly jigs for C&L 0 gauge point-work. In use, the V rail was simply machined at half the angle, dropped upside down into the slots, and then the bits of wing rail added. Small strips of brass were then soldered across the bases of the track. Afaik, the assembled unit was then supplied in their point kits.

 

Here's a photo of a couple of the prototypes. If you're only making a few points, then a simple jig made by screwing appropriately placed screws into a block of wood would be sufficient.

 

 

 

2016_01_17_13_51_35_OneShot.jpg

Great looking jigs. I should of thought about making some 25 years ago when I wasin charge of a machine shop, Trouble is they would of been 18.2mm gauge. I think I will have to sort something out, I may see if I can do something out of copperclad or wood. There are not many units to do so I do not have to worry about wear.

[Donw]

MY highly technical 0 gauge jig for 1:5.5 crossings

 

I wanted 5.5 crossings as it gives a slightly easier radius.

 

Recently wanting a couple of 1:7s for a double slip I printed off some from Templot and built the crossings on the spares

 

Don

 

 

 

 

[Simond]

been there, done that.  That's why I went for the jigs!

 

the thing I found difficult was the alignment of the wing and closure rails with the vee. 

 

the jig does that, and accurately maintains the flangeway

 

best

Simon

[N15class]

 

MY highly technical 0 gauge jig for 1:5.5 crossings

 

 

I wanted 5.5 crossings as it gives a slightly easier radius.

 

Recently wanting a couple of 1:7s for a double slip I printed off some from Templot and built the crossings on the spares

 

 

 

 

Don

 

 

 

 

Hi Don

 

Thats the sort of jig Ilike. I have made one with ply glued to hard wood, which I used to check the filing on the crossing. I think I may look for some 1.5mm pins.

[Donw]

Hi Don

 

Thats the sort of jig Ilike. I have made one with ply glued to hard wood, which I used to check the filing on the crossing. I think I may look for some 1.5mm pins.

 

If you use pins with a 1.5mm shank you may need to take the heads off so you can remove the completed crossing.

Don

[hayfield]

A bit of food for thought, over the weekend I had the opportunity to inspect and take some photos of C+L's ready made turnout in 00 gauge. I had anticipated that they would use their own common crossing. But no !! a soldered up vee and a selection of standard, bridge and slide chairs were used. Clearly the builder has used a pre made Vee then accurately formed the wing/closure rails

 

This got me thinking, why not in some places use some check rail chairs duly modified. I will give this idea a go as it could simplify turnout construction

 

What has this got to do with 0 gauge, well Off the Rails do several sets of 3D printed chairs, Certainly check rail chairs in several standards, 1-6 common crossing in scale 7, but could be used semi cosmetically for other standards, also do a fret of non standard chairs etc, as well as a fret of GWR crossing nose chairs.

 

I think I may have a go when I have a bit of time of building a common crossing using this method, as well as using some check rail chairs also combining some of the parts from the common crossing chairs. I think it may well work with plastic timbers, but should also work with Ply. Worth a quick experiment I think

[N15class]

I have adjusted the scissors and all seems to be working well, with a 4 wheeled wagon anyway.

 

John (Hayfield) was correct in an earlier post when he said the two centre vees were the important ones. I got one wrong, aftermoving it to where it should of been, then adjusting the closure rails and wing rails that it affected. All was well. I also tightened up the check rails for the diamond.

 

No photosthis time as it stilll looks the same. Itwill now go back to the workshop, then Ican figure out to install and power up. Time for a trip to the electrical shop and get some centre biased and micro switches for the seep motors and crossing polarity.

[N15class]

I was going to do some work on the Dukedog today, but, I took the scissers to the workshop.

 

I just rested it on the base board. Then I thought I would just check the position of things. The holes were drilled for the wires etc. This was followed by I will glue some thin foam down that I thought might help with sound. Why not fix down the scissors. Then well lets get one end done. Finally a phone call to collect SWMBO stopped play. The Dukedog lays lonely on the bench.

 

I fixed the track and foam down with PVA. The foam is dense enough to have some give even when glues on two sides. It will be interesting see if the foam works. It is the only think I have found that is anything like camping mats. Over here you dont sleep on the floor if you camp.

 

In the photos you will see I have added a plywood end, to save having anything the 1.5 metres to the floor and it's death. The other end has a 125mm wall so it's quite safe.

 

A view each way from either end of the scissors.

 

 

The next two show the scissors themselves, which to my eye is not perfect buta lot betterthan before. As long as nothing derails I am not unhappy aboutbumps or kinks. It was an exercise to check my building and to put models through their paces, to make sure that they work efficiently.

 

 

 

Finally a closeup of the stretchers and loop for operating the blades.

 

 

The end with the reverse curve will be fitted next. I then need to join all the wires upand add a few more. I tested the points before, during and after fixing and things seemed to remain the same.

[Donw]

Nice work Pete, 

Regarding the crossings. The distance between the common crossings is as you say critical. The same applies to diamonds and slips. This distance is linked to the angle of the acute crossings so if the crossings are slightly out the distance will be affected. Also if you amend the gauge say using 31.5 on a 32mm template that will be wrong the gauge affects it too.

Don

[N15class]

Peter,

How are you you insulating the tie bars so the switch rails are not shorted together?

Hi Paul

I have use double sided copperclad board. It is something I saw ages ago and stayed rattling around in my head. What you do is cut two small oblongs. Solder a 0.7mm wire to one side with the blocks a suitable distance apart. Then solder the other side to the switch blade in such a way that there is some under the stock rails. This will stop the switches floating up an down. The wire being flexible helps relieve the stresses on the blades. The loop for the operating switch can go outside the gauge if needed.

[N15class]

I have had the plan out again today and been playing with the floor plans of some of the buildings. I thought I was going to get away with boards between 700 and 750mm wide. But to make any sense of where the goods shed is I think I need to be nearer 900mm. Which in it's self is not too bad, except that the goods shed is on the second board which I wanted to keep up in my room with the first so I can work on them it will make it hard for me to get out my room. Time for a rethink.

 

I have come up with an idea fro the grainstore at the end. Which will mean I do not have to mess with to many board lengths.

[2ManySpams]

I think the grain store is essential if you want to capture the essence of Bodmin North Pete. Will be happy to draw it up for you when needed to save you the pain of working out all the wonky dimensions.

[N15class]

I think the grain store is essential if you want to capture the essence of Bodmin North Pete. Will be happy to draw it up for you when needed to save you the pain of working out all the wonky dimensions.

Thanks Chris

 

I have decided that the grain store and road and Pooley's weigh bridge will be on their own board. So when it is complety set up it will be there, this means the firat two boards will fit in my room even if I cant get out.

[N15class]

I have been playing with track building again I thought I would get on with the station building end of the run round. Along with the back to back points that lead from the run round double slip to the cattle dock siding.

 

I decided that I would try some simple jigs to set up and solder together the crossings. I used 1.5mm brass wire which can be reused on new or when adjusting to get right. The 1 in 6 one I think will need to be redone, there is a need to hold the parts to one side, which defeats the object of having a jig.

 

First photo shows the 1 in 6 crossing in the jig.

 

 

 

 

The next two show top and bottom of the 1 in 5 for the cattle dock. I have used 1mm wire as bonds as it is the same hieght as the chairs, they are positioned so the two on the vee are on sleepers  and the one on the wings is between, I think this will give me the best support and the most chairs for fixing in place.

 

[N15class]

I have been having a play with the track for Bodmin. I am making the back to back points that lead from the first doulble slip to the cattle dock. I am building them together even thogh there will be a board joint splitting them in half. They an A5 into the cattle dock and an A6 into the double slip. This was done for length and as nothing larger than an 0-6-0 will ever get there I did not think it mattered to much.

 

First off I cut and double sided tape the timbers down. It is suprising how quickly the 300mm length of timbering get gobbled up.

 

 

 

Here is the two crossings in place A6 at the top A5 underneath.

 

 

 

Ihavealso added the two straight stock rails. I have to file up theswitches beforeI go any further. You will see I did not allow enough rail for the wings and vees. Lesson learnt more care and checking next time.

 

 

 

I am also going to have aplay with the slide chairs. I am going to drill through them and the rail from the side and super glue a short piece of 0.7mm wire in the hole. This is he only weak point I have found so far thatis really bugging me as it can lead to this area moving about whilst being laid. Any thoughts has it been tried before What do others do?

[Simond]

Peter,

 

I agree that the slide chairs are an annoyance,  having started in copperclad, I did as you have done with the double sided sticky tape, and then removed my trackwork from the template, at which point, it all fell apart.

 

I was advised simply to keep the timbers attached firmly to the template for ever and ballast over it.  I have built all my points that way since, but as I have no baseboards yet, I can't vouch for the ballasting bit.

 

have a look at my efforts a year or so ago;  Hope it helps  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/?p=1728570

 

best

Simon

Edited February 19, 2016 by Simond

[hayfield]

I have been having a play with the track for Bodmin. I am making the back to back points that lead from the first doulble slip to the cattle dock. I am building them together even thogh there will be a board joint splitting them in half. They an A5 into the cattle dock and an A6 into the double slip. This was done for length and as nothing larger than an 0-6-0 will ever get there I did not think it mattered to much.

 

First off I cut and double sided tape the timbers down. It is suprising how quickly the 300mm length of timbering get gobbled up.

 

a.JPG

 

 

Here is the two crossings in place A6 at the top A5 underneath.

 

b.JPG

c.jpg

 

 

Ihavealso added the two straight stock rails. I have to file up theswitches beforeI go any further. You will see I did not allow enough rail for the wings and vees. Lesson learnt more care and checking next time.

 

d.jpg

 

 

I am also going to have aplay with the slide chairs. I am going to drill through them and the rail from the side and super glue a short piece of 0.7mm wire in the hole. This is he only weak point I have found so far thatis really bugging me as it can lead to this area moving about whilst being laid. Any thoughts has it been tried before What do others do?

 

 

Peter

 

I super-glue the slide chairs to the rail first, once set then use solvent to stick the chairs to the timbers. Not as strong as your method but much quicker

 

The C&L 4 mm scale ready to run turnouts uses a piece of either card or plasticard under the timbers which have the P chairs + 1 timber extra either side, to lock all in place

[N15class]

Peter,

 

I agree that the slide chairs are an annoyance,  having started in copperclad, I did as you have done with the double sided sticky tape, and then removed my trackwork from the template, at which point, it all fell apart.

 

I was advised simply to keep the timbers attached firmly to the template for ever and ballast over it.  I have built all my points that way since, but as I have no baseboards yet, I can't vouch for the ballasting bit.

 

have a look at my efforts a year or so ago;  Hope it helps  http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/79052-porth-dinllaen-in-0/?p=1728570

 

 

 

 

best

Simon

 

 

 

Peter

 

I super-glue the slide chairs to the rail first, once set then use solvent to stick the chairs to the timbers. Not as strong as your method but much quicker

 

The C&L 4 mm scale ready to run turnouts uses a piece of either card or plasticard under the timbers which have the P chairs + 1 timber extra either side, to lock all in place

Thanks guy. I will keep on the paper as long as possible. Not sure why I did not think about just glueing to the rail. This one is a bit odd as I have got the point blades close to each other. At the moment the baseboard join will be between the tips.

[hayfield]

Peter

 

I use 2 thin strips of double sided tape to hold the sleepers in position. A quick splash of white spirit softens the glue to make it even easier to peel off

[3 link]

Up to now I just let them fall off when I remove the template, then it's just a case of spacing them back out when permanently glueing them in place, no big deal in my opinion. Although John's method with the double sided tape and white spirit sounds interesting.

 

Martyn.

[N15class]

I have finished apart from the ties, the A5 cattle dock point. It is a lot smoother than the points made for the test track. I would of finished the other half but left the MEK at the house. Now I need to find the time to start the baseboards. Then I might be able to do some plain track too.

 

[N15class]

I have now finished the A6 I am pleased with the way these have turned out.They both seem to be super smooth through the crossing, Well at least with a small 4 wheeled wagon. This is really giving me the confidence to go on and get the baseboards started. Knowing that I can make it work. I have felt a bit iffy as regards to my ability to make usable track.

 

Well here are the piccies

 

 

 

 

[hayfield]

My experience in 0 gauge is limited but with 00 (EM & P4 to a lesser amount) wagon and coach wheels are made to much finer standards, where as loco wheels back to back vary, I try as much as possible to test with a loco (my worst one) as I progress the build as its better to find faults/tight spots ASAP

 

Peter these turnouts do look supurb

[Simond]

Having seen your loco builds, I had no doubt that you could "crack" track making.

 

Looks good

Simon

[Brinkly]

I've really enjoyed reading and looking at your progress John. Lovely stuff. Any future updates?

 

Kind regards,

 

Nick.