Grasshopper John Posted May 14, 2015 Author Share Posted May 14, 2015 Cheers Tim, I have had advice on the way, but I have managed to assemble inside out, upside down, and in the wrong place I have a habit of Thinking I know what goes where great experience for recovery though. Here is another one. I was working on the reverse levers this morning getting them in place was an effort using wire so I used a 12ba nut and CH bolt. Then I noticed the expansion link had a hole mid way down, then the penny dropped I had connected the radius rod through the link to the support bar, Wrong, the radius rod should have been in the hole that had nothing in it. So another dismantle of all and a refit. Now its much better and everything that should move does Glad the motion bracket is re moveable as things would have been a bit harder than I already made things for myself. Just the eccentric rods to concentrate on then start on the final wheel assembly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 I'm not happy with the way the reverse leaver is attached I've left too much movement, whats needed is a couple of washers between the support bracket and the lever to stop sideways movement, so another re jig I just have to remove the 12ba nut and start again. One thing about re doing things is you know at the second attempt it's 100 % correct or in some cases some are even an improvement Grasshopper on way to WB. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 15, 2015 Author Share Posted May 15, 2015 This is how the reverse levers were assembled, as I said I wasn't too happy. and after with the washers in place Looks a lot better. I used felt tip on the inner washer and separated them with a rizla, worked a treat nice movement up and down none to the side. Next and last job for now on the cylinders was the eccentric rods, I soldered the caps on the end and drilled a hole for the return crank, they are fixed with a 14ba bolt no nut or washer needed as it just took a dab of solder on the expansion link at the back then I just filed away the slot in the head. Now the coupling rods, I've already assembled them but a bit ( quite a bit ) of fettling needs to be done on the crank bushes before they can be fitted. Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 15, 2015 Share Posted May 15, 2015 it just took a dab of solder on the expansion link at the back then I just filed away the slot in the head. Grasshopper. It sounds like you have got to grips with the black art of soldering . Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 20, 2015 Author Share Posted May 20, 2015 Spent the last few days on the final pieces of the valve gear, you assemble one thing and have to redo or adapt another. What i thought would be easy was far from it, the return crank, getting it in the right position took ages as the slightest movement of the bush would throw it out and had to start again. This is the final assembly but I have a small tight spot and its where the eccentric rod joins the return crank on the LH side so another disassemble. I'm not happy with the width of the expansion link, even though I've moved it as far as it will go outwards the conn rod still catches the eccentric rod, so still some fettling to be done, Have run it at speed using a brush on mini drill and she runs ok but at slower speed thats where I have the small bit of binding. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
3 link Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Hi John, What you need is a test track, I use to have two Peco points set as a crossover with a couple of lengths of track each side. It is alright sorting out any tight spots in a straight line, but the real test is if the loco can go through a 6ft radius without any binding of wheels against the frames or brake shoes and also valve gear. Martyn. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 20, 2015 Share Posted May 20, 2015 Nice work John you will be giving OzzyO a run for his money soon (he could do with some exercise ) Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Well done that man! Looking really good. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Your chassis build looks to be coming along nicely. However, the hole you have used to fix the radius rod to the expansion link is too far from the expansion link pivot, even for full forward gear, and results in the lifting arms sloping down too steeply. The hole you've used was used in the prototype to insert the radius rod die-block pin and was deliberately placed beyond the maximum travel of the reversing mechanism to avoid any chance of the pin working out and getting jammed in the hole! If it's not too late, I'd create a new hole in the expansion link, say half way between the pivot and the existing (pin insertion) hole and attach the radius rod using that. The lifting links will then be in a more realistic position. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim2014 Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Great work John - much faster than me too I rather like your front crank bushes - how did you do them? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Hi Tim. John, For totally recessed crankpin nuts, which as LMS enthusiasts you will appreciate the need for, see post 9 here; http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/7367-dikitrikis-7mm-workbench-scratchbuilt-wagon/ Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 Your chassis build looks to be coming along nicely. However, the hole you have used to fix the radius rod to the expansion link is too far from the expansion link pivot, even for full forward gear, and results in the lifting arms sloping down too steeply. The hole you've used was used in the prototype to insert the radius rod die-block pin and was deliberately placed beyond the maximum travel of the reversing mechanism to avoid any chance of the pin working out and getting jammed in the hole! If it's not too late, I'd create a new hole in the expansion link, say half way between the pivot and the existing (pin insertion) hole and attach the radius rod using that. The lifting links will then be in a more realistic position. Dave. Thanks Dave that makes a lot of sense as my connecting rod has a tendency to hit the eccentric rod, I should be OK to change the position of the hole as the motion bracket is removable, I've had it on and off so many times I've lost count. Great work John - much faster than me too I rather like your front crank bushes - how did you do them? It's just an ordinary top hat bush but reversed so the head of the top hat is outwards, this gives a lot better clearance when you fit the conn rod. hope that helps Tim. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 Hi Tim. John, For totally recessed crankpin nuts, which as LMS enthusiasts you will appreciate the need for, see post 9 here; http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/7367-dikitrikis-7mm-workbench-scratchbuilt-wagon/ Richard Thanks Richard, lovely work I wondered from the photo OzzyO showed me how you did that. Regards John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 22, 2015 Author Share Posted May 22, 2015 Well it took a bit longer than expected but worth it although I still have a very slight catch on the rear of the expansion link, not much though the completed valves run on a plastic tray with only a slight incline. So I had to strip the eccentric rod, and expansion link drill some holes and re-assemble, I forgot I broke one of the expansion links by trying to form it a few times and it decided to part company again. It was more hassle to solder it back than re-assembling the valve gear. I re did it using 188dg solder soit wont happen again (he says ) So all done now with I hope Dave, the radius rod is now sufficiently higher, the lower hole which would have been visible I just filled with solder and filed it smooth. Now a little bit of work on the correct locking nuts for the rear crankpins and get rid of the 10ba ones which were only temporary. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dikitriki Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 the radius rod is now sufficiently higher, the lower hole which would have been visible I just filled with solder and filed it smooth. Grasshopper Hi The valve gear looks much better. But the lower hole in the expansion link should still be there. Richard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted May 22, 2015 Share Posted May 22, 2015 Hi The valve gear looks much better. But the lower hole in the expansion link should still be there. Richard Absolutely! Agree on both counts. I have personal experience of using these holes. Hours of endless fun driving the die-block pin in and out of the radius rod, through the expansion link, trying to get the taper pin slot in the pin to align with the holes in the rod on three sets of valve-gear (rebuilt MN, but the arrangement is identical to a Black Five). Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 23, 2015 Author Share Posted May 23, 2015 Thanks Richard / Dave, Thankfully it's only solder so a bit softer than the NS I had to drill yesterday Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted May 23, 2015 Share Posted May 23, 2015 That is looking very good John. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 24, 2015 Author Share Posted May 24, 2015 It's not looking so good at the moment OzzyO, I drilled the holes as advised then a little bit of fettling on the expansion link to give a bit more clearance, then I drilled and taped a couple of retaining nuts for the rear drivers, it was going OK then I noticed that a return crank was out of place probably because of the different position of the radius rod. The return crank was also catching at the bottom, I worked out it needed a couple of bends, In trying to achieve them which I did I squashed the top hat as now it won't go home properly, so this morning I have to replace the offending top hat and re-assemble. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 25, 2015 Author Share Posted May 25, 2015 A very small error meant I had to strip down the body which has given me the chance to get those springs sorted out, I've been meaning to do this so out with various files I set about getting rid of excess solder and the cusps ( Thanks Martyn ) . So nearly 5 hours of filing I think they look a whole lot better. My fingers and thumbs are numb I just hope I can hold a pint. Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted May 30, 2015 Author Share Posted May 30, 2015 Well after a major setback I've finally got the valve gear finished, It runs beautifully now, for some reason I couldn't get the right side to work as well as the left, so thinking cap on and another strip down I realised the return crank was wrong I made the left with two bends but the right only one. So after dismantling the radius rod ( again ) from the return crank I put it in the vice and gave it the tweak at the lower end to stop the conn rod fouling the radius rod. I admit I had a few problems with the cylinder wrappers but I can get over that later on. Few pieces left to attach to the frames and then it will be a strip down and a coat of black etch primer, will do the Tender at the same time. Not sure if 7mm makes a diff from 4mm but the difference in the running is very noticeable. Grasshopper Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Harvey Posted May 30, 2015 Share Posted May 30, 2015 Jon I would not be bothered about the wrappers as they were never mirror finish and the metal would warp after a few hours of use. The build looks great. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 1, 2015 Author Share Posted June 1, 2015 Understood Pete, I will think about that I like building as the real thing would look, a bit battered Just last pieces now fitted to frames before a coat of primer, exhaust injector and pipes the lever mounts and the drop grate bracket. The exhaust pipe is on it's way, was pleased with the way I soldered the WM to the pipes and frame, getting a bit more confident now. Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grasshopper John Posted June 5, 2015 Author Share Posted June 5, 2015 Most of this build is new territory for me so the exhaust pipe is no different, It's a strange arrangement as the injector is at an angle so the pipe has to have two bends quite close to each other. Took a few attempts as I've never had to bend copper tube before but got there in the end, I made up the brackets from copper wire and used low melt for the join into the injector. Just hope I've done it correctly as it was all guesswork. Grasshopper. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Holt Posted June 5, 2015 Share Posted June 5, 2015 It's really not a good idea to do modelling of this standard by "guesswork". Proper sources of information are fundamental. I've attached a part copy of the pipe & rod drawing for a late Black V. I can recommend the Wild Swan series of loco studies as a good source for this type of information. To be specific, there's no double bend in the steam supply pipe to the exhaust steam injector. Hopefully, you will be able to make out the pipe run in both planes. Here's also a photo of the underside of my 4 mm Black V, to help clarify the arrangement shown in the drawing. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.