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The Great Australian Outdoors


robertc
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Just watched all the videos Bob 

good stuff the layout is looking really good the Astro turf really makes a difference

 

ps I believe a few more 30s are on order to be coming down under, and have been able to order without the clutch drive on the axle 

 

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Now that is interesting, I did not know the clutch drive could be disconnected in the factory.

I suspect for most of us that would be a good move.

I have had a few contact me direct regarding the model since my letter in AMRA Journal.

ETS need to be told that nickel silver wheels are what we want not that dodgy black coating that Ace specify.

The grass even makes the HO look OK running around.

cheers

 Bob

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Hi Bob

I got a reply from Zuzana at ETS they can supply a non clutch set up for $15 us $$ For the 30 class  loco's

 

i locked my one up using a small section of rc fuel hose on the axle behind the C clip keeps the clutch locked 

 

Edited by SMR CHRIS
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Hi Chris, sounds like a good idea, must get around to doing mine too.

 

If your friends would like a 30T as well then one has been done as an experiment. They might be persuaded to do a run if they got enough interest.

The problem I see with ETS is they have taken a policy of using blacked steel wheels not nickel silver.

This to me is a retrograde step, I had enough of that nonsense in HO years ago and replaced wheels with n/s ones .

 

Given there are two humps and hollows on my access ramp that can not easily be solved, the long wheel base of the 4-6-4 tank engine becomes an issue, particularly when the bogies are now limited in upward travel due to the Kadee draft boxes above them. To assist with pickup I have livened up the rear bogie.

 

956890168_P1000298s.JPG.04c584215cb52577dadf53e38a112138.JPG

 

cheers

Bob

 

 

 

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Hi Bob re the blackened wheels I agree they are a backward step I’m thinking due to the ETS nickel wheel profile the blackened steal may have been chosen for looks more than function.

I wonder if ETS could supply a replacement wheel set with the nickel sliver wheels, a set would be a easy replacement. May be worth a email to them.

The extra pickups are a good idea I have done a very similar pickup arrangement on my 30T .

so far with my 30 tank a Keep Alive has been sufficient to give very smooth running of the model have yet to install sound will probably fit extra pickups when I pull the loco apart for the install 

 

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23 minutes ago, hartleymartin said:

If you wanted to be strictly prototypical, the centre wheels should be flangeless, but I think it with these wheels they would look too toy-ish.

 

You are correct Marty should be flange less centre driver don’t forget this is a toy train style model 

however you are also right with the visual look may look odd as the wheels are slightly under size.and having all wheels flanged hides this quite well 

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Chris is correct Marty, don't judge this model in comparison to a RTR version that is not offered and if it were would be in the vicinity of $3000. These are robust models built to a price and designed to work for a living.

It comes in under a grand and there is nothing in the local market remotely to compare.

I'm sure there will be many 'improvements' done to these models by individuals.

 

It will be interesting to hear what response Jiri gives Chris.

 

cheers

 Bob

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It wasn't intended to be a harsh criticism of the model. The fact is that it is a very impressive model for an RTR offering, made in the old style tinplate.

 

How under-sized are the wheels? I am aware that it is usual practice in this style to use slightly under-sized wheels to accommodate the flanges. Scale size is 32.4mm.

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Hello Robert, thought I should check in after, well more than a few months ;)

 

As usual love your modelling, approach and friendship to others. Nice to see the layuot rebuilt and in use again.

 

Back  sooner than later I hope,

 

Regards,

David Head

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Bob

A creative solution I had been thinking of taking them off and running the mill across them but as they are a bit soft was worried may compromise them. 

Adding the edging is a very simple but effective solution one I hadn’t even considered and I will have to see if I have any styrene of a similar size, if not I’m going to the Hobbies shop to get some archer rivets the decal type to add some extra rivets on the rear bunker and will pick some up 

 

 

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I was donated some leftover US building kit parts some time back by a friend.

Yesterday I started to assemble the parts into some buildings a little less American with the aid of some cut and shut, additional styrene and corrugated iron.

 

2058608638_P1020080s.JPG.8b3c1df12bd352a3f84ac4c8c635f0be.JPG

 

They are well under way this morning.

cheers

 Bob

Edited by robertc
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To those of you wondering if the 59 class was residing by now in the local tip here is proof  it still lives.

Today I lined, lettered and coaled it.

Teditors nice decals once again to the rescue.

 

 

P1020097.JPG.92218251a3d43ce8e1b9f573450543a3.JPG

cheers

Bob

Edited by robertc
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59 Looks very nice Bob you have done a great job on it considering the short comings of the original parts, That were more a scratch building aid rather than a kit ie a few parts that you can use to join and when you scratch build the bits between you have a 59 

 

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