Roxey 7 mm Beattie well tank

[ian@stenochs]

Looks better now you have got the boiler in place. However the front springs look a bit basic and lacking depth. Can you laminate another layer on the back to get nearer scale breadth?

Ian

[hayfield]

Peter

 

Thanks I had feared that, would be even quicker if I knew what I was doing. Ages since I have built a loco and really enjoying it. Have a Wills 4-4-0 County part built as well and just taken delivery of a part made Wills de Glen Compound, which has been a wish I have had for ages

 

Still there is going to be quite a bit of filling on this one, and will not be too long before I buy either a G6 or 02

Edited June 14, 2015 by hayfield

[hayfield]

This evening has been spent sanding and filling joints with filler, nothing interesting to show. But I now have to think about fitting the boiler and smokebox units. The instructions are quite simple, which are slide the brass boiler on to the smoke box, next push fit the rear to the cab front.

 

Next solder the smoke box to the footplate, solder the boiler to the cab front, flare the firebox to the splashers and fix

 

 

Well here is the underside looking to the smoke box

 

 

Now looking to the cab, what I do understand is to 1; solder the smoke box to the footplate  2; solder the boiler to the cab. I am fine with that

 

I guess you solder the fire box to the rear splasher and the gap between the two splashers. After the footplate between the splashers it seems that the boiler now is not as wide as the instead of the splashers, I can see that I will then need to trim the excess of the fire box back to the rear splasher and footplate between the two splashers, also I think I will have to grind back the part of the boiler near to the rear of the front splasher as it may foul the drivers. Is this correct please as I have not built a model with this combination of different materials. 

[N15class]

The fire box sides need to come down vertically, There should be little or no gap between the splashers and the firebox.

[hayfield]

Peter

 

Thsnks that is what I thought, its the part where the fire box changes into the boiler where the splashers are for the leading drivers. I will solder everything up tomorrow and see how it all fits together. Thanks  (should have bought the G6, then I could have copied yours)

[hayfield]

Looks better now you have got the boiler in place. However the front springs look a bit basic and lacking depth. Can you laminate another layer on the back to get nearer scale breadth?

Ian

 

 

Ian

 

Thanks, I have a screen shot on my computer and agree, there are whitemetal axle boxes to go on but no tops to the springs which I will add. Not enough room behind though  due to clearences

[hayfield]

 

Before attaching the smoke box and boiler I made a few adjustments to the parts. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the smokebox so the front fixing screw could pass through. I then cut a V in the front of the boiler wrapper where it goes into the smoke box so it misses the chimney spigot.

 

 

I then soldered the back of the boiler/firebox wrapper to the cab front and the splashers, you can see the excess material that needs cutting back

 

 

the wrapper duly altered, the excess being ground/sanded back level with the splashers and footplate

 

 

 I have filled the joint between the wrapper and front splashers with Milliput filler. its easier to spread into the holes without excess material beinf left to be sanded. Once dry will need the lightest of cleaning up.

 

Next up are the sand boxes then the boiler bands, these are expected to be a bit tricky

 

[ozzyo]

I would say now go back to work on the frames, and get them up to a working point. Why do all of the work on the body if the frames don't work?

 

OzzyO.

[hayfield]

OzzyO

 

Thanks for that advice, I am still waiting for the packet to arrive from Roxey with the hornblock alignment guides, hopefully tomorrow they will drop through the letterbox. On a push test the chassis is very free running, but yes it would be good to getting it working under its own steam. etc

[hayfield]

After sleeping on some Ideas overnight there seems to be some questions in my mind

 

Firstly looking at photos on the web at both ends of the chassis there seems to be a vertical plate running across the front and rear of the chassis, I need to work out both the height and how far back they are recessed

 

Secondly I decided not to use the imitation coal casting for the bunker, but make a base and use real coal. On one photo there seems to be a water tank filler, any ideas please

 

Thinking of the next project (and perhaps this one) is there a source of decent drawings please

 

Back on this one, sprung buffers. How much depth do you need for these please ? would the view of the springing unit for these out weigh the benefits of them working / 

[Izzy]

I'm not sure what you are intending to do about the front carry wheels/axle, but might I advise against making it spring/rock/move if the front drivers are fixed. There is no point in having it rock alone if this is fixed, and if you spring it then unless you get the rate just right, which can be tricky (but not impossible), then the tendency can be for the loco to become a 'nodding donkey' and lifting the rear drivers. This is especially so in 7mm where in general more weight is involved than in the smaller scales and particularly so in this case where the overall wheelbase is short, and the distance between the front axle and carry axle is minimal. Personally I'd either leave it fixed solid, or use twin beam compensation allied to the front axle, as has already been illustrated. You don't have to use drilled axle beams though. Stiff beams resting on top of the axle bearings are quite good enough and all made simply from rod/tube.

 

Izzy

[N15class]

Have a look at my build on my blog. I think the water filler is there. If not it will be on my thread. Links below. I am at my bench and all the photos are not e hard drive at home.

[hayfield]

Peter

 

Thanks for that I have had a quick look at the 8 blogs but will spend a bit more time studying your model as I have seen parts slightly different from the kit but like photos I have

 

The chassis now has coupling rods, I think one set of bushes are the wrong size, will speak with Slaters about buying some the correct size

[N15class]

Have a look at my build on my blog. I think the water filler is there. If not it will be on my thread. Links below. I am at my bench and all the photos are not e hard drive at home.

I may not have photos but I have the model. Brain dead Cross strikes again.

 

Have a look at my build on my blog. I think the water filler is there. If not it will be on my thread. Links below. I am at my bench and all the photos are not e hard drive at home.

I may not have photos but I have the model. Brain dead Cross strikes again.

 

[hayfield]

Peter

 

Thanks for that I will make one from plasticard and guess the size, top class video as per your G6 thread 

 

Had a bad attack of hayfever today, been like a very heavy cold and now changing from a running nose to being blocked up. Very little DIY done in the afternoon, so now a bit behind where I wanted to be. I did manage to knock up a display plinth on the router though. Now being stained prior to track being stuck to it

 

 

with a bit of fiddling I have managed to get a very free running chassis, still no packet from Roxey so cannot solder in the bearings. Phoned Slaters with a query about the coupling rod bearings and found out I need to file the rear ones down to size. Still very pleased with it so far

 

 

 

Started to fit the boiler bands (I know the right hand one on this side is not straight, will fix when I get to do the rest) I have used a calliper to set them, which seems to have worked (except for where I made the mistake. Still 2 nearly finished 4 to go. Sand boxes and dome now soldered in place

 

Been looking at photos and it seems that I need to remove the rear guard irons on the chassis as the guard irons seem to be fitted to the rear buffer beam, castings are in the box. Time to read the instructions again

[N15class]

Thank you about the video.

 

Both your crank pin bushes need to be the same length. The BTW has the connecting rods go against the wheel, and the coupling goes outside. You need to put some washers or a bit of tube behind the coupling rod just enough to keep the coupling rod parallel.

 

I use Scotch magic tape for boiler bands cut into strips and that can be painted and lined first if needed. put them in place when you do the transfers the varnish the body. they are thin stay in place and beat the pants off of trying to solder them on the trying to line them in place. I would take them off.

[hayfield]

Peter

 

Once again thanks for the advice, and information re coupling rods. I will give your boiler band suggested method a go, but I have always wanted to have a go with this method so will continue with it.

 

Where do you get your plans from please, and I guess you need a few photos as well

 

I am having second thoughts about a couple of items, the rear guard irons seem to be hung from the buffer beam, there are whitemetal replacements in the kit but I believe they are too fragile for me. Secondly 2 of the cast buffers are slightly out of register, but sprung ones may not fit the front beam due to the cylinders

 

Read what is left of the instructions, which is not much and more of a guide. Still a few parts to fit so will make my own snag list.

 

 

My attempt to make a plinth, I will use C&L rail and chairs but it may look better without sleepers on this under width piece of wood

Edited June 17, 2015 by hayfield

[2ManySpams]

John, did you finish the Beattie? Will be interesting to see how you got on.

[hayfield]

Its still on the shelf, but is very much in my mind, I need to straighten one boiler band and then not too much to do. I was talking to Dave Hammersley of Roxey about which should be my next purchase. G6 or Radial tank ?

 

Track building has first call on my time after getting the house in a good condition to sell, this now has been done. A GEM 2-4-2t in 4mm jumped the queue for use on the Watford clubs new layout, but the Beattie is very close to being on the workbench. Its is a super little loco and one of the nicest kits to build, as for the boiler bands, tape next time

[EKR]

Connoisseur do a full brass G6 which goes together well (slot and tab).

Cab is basic but you can improvise if you check N15's build and the online plans for his O2 which shared a similar one..

 

Having recently compared a full brass Radial Tank with a white metal Roxey one, the crisper detail of the former is very noticeable.

Nothing against Dave as he's such a helpful chap and always worth meeting at the shows

[hayfield]

Was it 3 years ago that I last posted the Beattie on this thread, well 23 months ago we moved house and the Beattie has been in storage as my modelling facilities were very limited, 12 months ago we started our house extension which included a modelling room for me, After Christmas I started to populate my room, but was under medical orders only to do very light work, thankfully had a minor operation last Wednesday and all now seems fine

 

 

Well I have been posting on another thread for the past month the few advances I have made in recommencing the build. After joining a new model railway club and been adopted on to the 7 mm scale scale layout seeing sprung buffers working I relented and ordered some, plus some brass smokebox door darts and some machined coupling rods. Boiler bands fitted now time to start fitting the castings

 

 

The chassis has been painted, had fun with the motor mount (wish High Level did 7 mm gearboxes) and started to prep for pickups. As I said bought some machined coupling rods (far better than the etched ones) and quite disappointed with the whitemetal crossheads, so may buy some better offerings

 

Need to either build a small test plank or cameo layout, slowly building up some 7 mm stock, in the post yesterday was a Metal Models etched GWR siphon F, will look to get a bogie coach from Dave Ellis at Ally Pally in 3 weeks time 

[hayfield]

Now have had time to read back through the thread, looks like I need a set of Archer rivets and make a water tank filler, must look at the plans I have and see if there is anything else I am missing. Plus work out where the wash out plugs go

[hayfield]

I have one of these to build, and have lots of Laurie Griffin parts, I will watch your build with interest.

 

Ian G

 

Ian

 

What parts did you buy please, as I have mentioned I have decided to upgrade some parts and one area in question is the crossheads, it would be good to see Lauries also he does cylinder drain cocks, sadly his website has no photos.  I am trying to keep the costs down, but on the other hand some areas may not be worth skimping on. 

 

Thanks

[hayfield]

 

The front wheel carrier has had a piece of brass tubing soldered to the top of it and the unit painted.

 

I needed some thing to stop the front wheel unit from dropping out of the frames when being lifted. The thought was to design a simple fixing to allow removal of this unit but at the same time form some type of suspension. I will solder a length of brass rod to a flat piece of brass with a hole in it, the rod will go through the tube and will be fastened to the chassis using the front chassis retaining screw going through the plate.

 

 

Starting to add the detailing to the body, next thing is to roughly judge where the washout plugs go by looking at photos. I have some sprung buffers to fit and a set of brass door handles arrived this morning. I am now at a point where I am trying to decide just how much detail to add, and trying to find photos showing the version I am building with regard to the pipework as the plans are very vague.

 

I am building the Drummond version and going to fit the pump, would like to paint it SR green, but I think its either LSWR green or black

 

Looking at the amount of missing rivets on the body and lack of any decent plans or clear photos it may stay rivetless 

 

Next up is to fit the pickups 

[N15class]

You need to be careful. Your model is of one rebuilt in the thirties. The pump would of been removed. Black was the colour plain or lined green. But you can always use rule one. Don't forget the tank breather just behind the smoke box. Still need to add mine.