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Roxey 7 mm Beattie well tank


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Peter

 

Thank you for that information, does that mean the pipework on the plans is for an earlier version. With the pipe from the clack valve dropping straight down rather than into the clack union on the footplate just in front of the leading driver, and pipes from the whistle going into or behind the sand boxes ?

 

As for green, are you talking about LSWR or SR green please

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Peter

 

Thank you for that information, does that mean the pipework on the plans is for an earlier version. With the pipe from the clack valve dropping straight down rather than into the clack union on the footplate just in front of the leading driver, and pipes from the whistle going into or behind the sand boxes ?

 

As for green, are you talking about LSWR or SR green please

 

 

Looking at your loco if you are doing a |Drummond boiler the safety valves near the whistle needs to be removed as they are in the dome on Drummond boilers.  The pipe from the clack goes straight down into the space between the frames. There are other pipes coming down from the whistle manifold. (laurie does a nice one).

 

The loco from Roxey will not make a LSWR BWT just the later SR rebuild.  This one was would not of been either SR or LSWR green. The trouble with the BWT is they were rebuilt a few times so are a pain to get right for the right period.

 

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Peter

 

Thanks, I am rather stuck with what I have, so its a case of making do to a certain extent, I thought that it will have to be black and guessed that the Southers would have to be from a 4 mm scale sheet, could be a lot worst and will not have to do loads of lining

 

Thank you again

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I model circa 1930 so my BWT is a bit new I would like to do the previous rebuild with donkey pump and that one would be black and lined green. But there is a whole load of locos to be built before I start making duplicates.

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Ian

 

What parts did you buy please, as I have mentioned I have decided to upgrade some parts and one area in question is the crossheads, it would be good to see Lauries also he does cylinder drain cocks, sadly his website has no photos. I am trying to keep the costs down, but on the other hand some areas may not be worth skimping on.

 

Thanks

LG's site now has excellent pics. Click shop on the top row and then navigate thro' the sections. Draincocks are listed under frames - cylinder components - LSWR.

Nick

Edited by Nicktoix
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I would like to add there is what seems to be an excellent source of top quality parts from Laurie Griffin

 

http://www.lgminiatures.co.uk/catalogues/

 

Yes, his castings are superb. Used them to tart up my O2 kit build. I have a good collection of castings for my future BWT build - a composite of his castings, a few shedmaster parts and as set of NS etchings produced by a rmweb member.

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Yes, his castings are superb. Used them to tart up my O2 kit build. I have a good collection of castings for my future BWT build - a composite of his castings, a few shedmaster parts and as set of NS etchings produced by a rmweb member.

Any chance of a photo of whats available please

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  • 2 weeks later...

Sorry, I missed your reply

 

The castings look superb, the etched kit is in another class especially where those castings are concerned. at the moment I am considering how far to go with additional detail and wondering if its actually worth upgrading the Roxey kit. Been at Ally Pally and got some useful advice and tips from the demonstration stands, also bought a few more parts for the Slaters Flatiron chassis. Torn a bit about which style of pickups, still a few bits to ponder

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The castings look superb, the etched kit is in another class especially where those castings are concerned.

The original Shedmaster etchings are not for the faint hearted! The chassis had completely different wheel centres to the body - which I believe is why it was was withdrawn - and the body is more of an aid for scratch builders: Very thin etches so needs bracing etc and I’m not sure about the dimensional accuracy, especially around the cab.

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I do believe they were blown up jidenco etches. Mine is from Shedmaster. I may of done it differently had it not been started. You never know I might scratch build one.

I've got a set of the Shedmaster BWT body etches. The brass is very thin for 7mm. Talking to Laurie Griffin, yes they were blown up (enlarged?) from the 4mm kit.

 

Think I'll be selling my Shedmaster etches on as I have a rather nice set of alternative etches for 30567 in NS.

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I've got a set of the Shedmaster BWT body etches. The brass is very thin for 7mm. Talking to Laurie Griffin, yes they were blown up (enlarged?) from the 4mm kit.

 

Think I'll be selling my Shedmaster etches on as I have a rather nice set of alternative etches for 30567 in NS.

I bought the chassis etch from the same rmwebber but had built most of the body (cab, splashers and curved footplate) when I ground to a halt!

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  • 2 months later...

Nice stuff going on here, enjoyed all to date subscribed for the updates to completion.

Cheers

 

Ade

 

Thanks, its a great kit to start with, sitting on the bench waiting for time to sort out the pickups, but a large patio and landscaping both front and back gardens after both being trashed by the builders

 

On the plus side thinking about a layout to run it on based on the Bembridge plan with SR & GWR influences, plan starting to emerge on Templot 

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  • 8 months later...

Cannot believe its been 4 years in the making

 

602.jpeg.f242bc8d830d8e6a92621a605a9130ef.jpeg

 

I have a week off work and could make the Wednesday club night, so I had a bit of time on Tuesday night so fitted some PB pickups and wired them to the motor, then give the loco a run out on the main club 0 gauge layout

 

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Also I needed to fashion a fixing of the front wheel stretcher to the chassis, it is a drop in sub assemble. Wire in a tube used which doubles up as a bit of suspension

 

Works fine even though the wheels are still dirty and the meshing of the gears needs a very slight tweak. Whilst there is no issues with starting and stopping, there is a minute slight snatching, not too certain if the coupling rods are still to tight a fit or its the meshing of the gears

 

I will now have to go back through the thread and refresh myself of all the good advice I have been given, plus start looking at some photos to see what further pipework is needed, and finally sort out the crosshead issues

Edited by hayfield
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