A Harbour Office

[Chubber]

I have started this thread to illustrate the building of a classic piece of railway modelling, namely the Harbour Office shown in John Ahern’s ‘Miniature Building Construction’* first published by Percival Marshall in 1939. It is to be built in three-quarter relief in 4mm-1/76^th scale using card and Scalescenes papers.

 

I drew several pictures of the Harbour Office on graph paper next to one of a small warehouse which I knew to be 50 foot long until it 'looked' right. Then, on fine graph paper I drew a full size picture from which I could size the various elements both with dividers and by reference to the 40mm/10ft scale proportion.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Suitable ready made plastic window frames are not to be found for the upper storey so I drew a series of pictures to help me understand their geometry. Having printed them out on satin photo-paper I set to and cut out them out first set. I need to cut out 7 before I managed three presentable specimens with glazing bars of approximately 0.3mm width.and this time did it after 4 attempts. The use of satin paper is recommended as gloss papers tend to de-laminate whilst being cut. As they fit an opening only 20mm high they were quite fiddly and I needed to hone the scalpel blade down to half thickness on fine wet-and-dry paper to achieve this modest level of success.

 

 

The lower sash window has no commercial equivalent so I drew them out, and after cutting them out I assembled three layers, glazed with 'back-to-back' sellotape and stuck them together to imitate the lower sash being open. They are shown below mounted in a piece of card as a try-out, the card covered with Scalescenes red brick paper. The sash window will have a stone sill inside the lower edge of the cut out.

 

 

 

 

I hope this is of interest, I'll post more as I go on, having problems deciding just which textures to use from the Scalescenes site as there is an embarrassment of choice!

 

Doug

 

 

 

<br style=""> <br style="">

[Scalescenes]

Thanks for the post Doug, really looking forward to following this build.

 

I also strongly recommend John H Ahern's book 'Miniature Building Construction', the original 'scratchbuilder's bible' when it comes to model buildings. Long out of print but well worth tracking down. Loads of useful information, great tips and drawings!

 

Here's a quick scan of the cover and TOC for those interested.

 

 

 

[pewky]

Hi Doug,

 

 

I love those projects. I will keep a very interested eye on it.

 

 

Good Luck

 

luc

@class2376

[Penlan]

Would it not have been easier to have the windows laser cut as Missy has done on the Highclere layout.

Of course you may well be following Ahern's methods of cutting out all by hand - I also echo the above, a good book (I have 2 copies).

 

However, I had not thought of the Satin paper route, will have to investigate.

[Chubber]

Would it not have been easier to have the windows laser cut as Missy has done on the Highclere layout.

Of course you may well be following Ahern's methods of cutting out all by hand - I also echo the above, a good book (I have 2 copies).

 

However, I had not thought of the Satin paper route, will have to investigate.

 

 

 

Hi, I have seen the York models site, lovely stuff, eh? As you have guessed, I have chosen is to build the model as Mr Ahern would have done, save the use of modern adhesives. I have used rigid 'Plexiglass' for glazing, as this was available in 1939, as I will show soon. Sadly a lot of his materials are not available to us today, can you imagine going into a chemist and asking for two fluid ounces of ether? It is the perfect adhesive for plexiglass/perspex, evaporating immediately leaving absolutely no trace, and only welding together within joints where capillary action holds it. I used it during my apprenticeship to make perspex cases for instruments, yes, I was tempted to sniff it, yes, I did feel sick!

 

Doug

 

 

Edited to correct to 'ether'

[Chubber]

Fixing the windows in position

 

 

I put a smear of ‘Bostik Rapid Glue Pen’ around the inside edge of the window openings and let it dry. When dry it acts like the adhesive on a ‘Post-it’ note and allows the window frames to be successfully aligned before a layer of CD case plastic is laid over the back.

 

MEK is applied to the edges of the windows and the glazing bars from the front which bonds them permanently to the plastic, before blobs of PVA are applied at the rear around the corners of the plastic so fixing it securely to the cardboard carcase.

 

Small strips of card cut as window sills and secured with PVA complete the windows.

 

 

 

 

The texture paper is John Wiffen's Scalescenes 'Hanging Tile' paper [TX41]

 

Doug

[Stubby47]

That's looking really good! Very impressed with your windows too.

 

Stu

[Chubber]

Thank you for your encouragement!

 

Here is how I shaped the mouldings for the cornice and the lower moulding. I ground a hacksaw blade to the right shape to scrape the 1mm radius from thin strip wood 'a la Ahern', sanded and primed it, then cut it down it's length with a razor saw and stuck it to two strips of card.

 

Copyright CV Russell and E Fells

 

 

 

 

 

The lower moulding is a lot simpler, just three bits of card stuck together.

 

Copyright CV Russell and E Fells

 

 

[Chubber]

Progress to date.

 

The simple interior lifts in and out, the little 'alcove' conceals a hole in the floor aligning with one in the base through which 4mm I/D clear plastic pipe will be glued to allow easy insertion of an led.

 

The 'wooden' flooring, blue walls and book cases are from Scalescenes TX OOa interior elements which includes carpets, pictures, fireplaces, tiled and carpeted floors, clocks etc. For a more realistic interior, or where it can be viewed from two sides of the building it's worth sticking the book case and fireplace cut-outs to 2mm card. Don't forget a hearth for the fireplace....

 

 

 

 

[Chubber]

'Progress to date' picture. The columns have to be found and fitted and some notice bards and tide clocks made....hey ho! The roof tiles are a print-out from John Wiffen yet to be released, a 'ancient tile' paper, printed on 140 gm watercolour paper to give a little texture. Steps are also to be made, and weathering has started with a wash of Chinese White and Burnt Sienna watercolour to give a 'grubby' look to the white paintwork. Printing Scalescenes stuff with Epson genuine 'DuraBrite inks allows plenty of lee-way as they are reasonably water resistant, but will run if moisture leaches in from the back.

 

Doug

 

 

 

 

 

[Chubber]

In response to a query, the end papers [clap-board] are Scalescenes 'Aged Clapboard TX36' over washed with Prussian blue watercolour.

[Campaman]

Excellent build, I also find watercolours very useful for subtle colouring of building papers.

 

I also use them for painting window glazing bars when using the thin strips of computer label method, as it does not take to the clear glazing material, this would also work with you method of window construction.

 

I am lucky in having access to a colour copier printer so I don't have problems with the colours bleeding when using watercolours on top.

 

Luck forward to seeing the finished building

[Chubber]

Now some chimney work, papered in Scalescenes ''Brown Brick Stretcher TX11" as this is the the correct way of laying bricks to give the necessary hollow for the flues. I have tried to make them 3 bricks in thickness, 8mm balsa seems about right. The pots on the large chimney are rolled from strips of newspaper rolled around a cocktail stick, then smeared with a mixture of PVA and watercolour paint. On the small stack I have experimented with short lengths of brown rubber cable insulation forced over pin heads driven into the balsa wood body of the stack, flashing to follow.

 

I hope someone finds this useful

 

Doug

 

[Oldddudders]

I hope someone finds this useful

Doh! Of COURSE it's useful! This sort of inspiring stuff is exactly what RMWeb should be about - those who know demonstrating how it's done. And given the modest cost of most of the raw materials you are using - especially the Scalescenes products - it has broad appeal. I also thoroughly approve of the attendant glass of rose wine, of course....

[Chubber]

Doh! Of COURSE it's useful! This sort of inspiring stuff is exactly what RMWeb should be about - those who know demonstrating how it's done. And given the modest cost of most of the raw materials you are using - especially the Scalescenes products - it has broad appeal. I also thoroughly approve of the attendant glass of rose wine, of course....

 

Cheers, Ian! BTW, t'aint the pink stuff, it's a drop of grog, France still has overseas territories that make the stuff....

 

Doug

[Coombe Barton]

I feel a shelf/diorama layout coming on.Thanks for the inspiration.

[Chubber]

Here we are, nearly finished, the following Scalescenes papers used-

 

TXO7 Aged red brick

TX36 Aged clap-board [over-washed with blue watercolour

TX31 cobble stones ['dented' with a screw driver, washed and weathered with w/colours

TX11 brown brick stretcher bond [chimneys]

 

The roof is clad in a yet-to-be catalogued small red tile, kindly given to me as a sneak preview for this project by John Wiffen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Doug

[Oldddudders]

First rate modelling. The hanging tiles are very effective - they beg to be used on the T.H.Myres designed stations on the LBSCR, most of which received them on the first floor.

[PhilH]

That is terrific, as Od says first rate modelling.

 

Quick question, have you printed out the common or garden brick papers onto watercolour paper? - looking at your roof tiles I wonder if this might be the 'missing link' in using Johns designs.

[Chubber]

That is terrific, as Od says first rate modelling.

 

Quick question, have you printed out the common or garden brick papers onto watercolour paper? - looking at your roof tiles I wonder if this might be the 'missing link' in using Johns designs.

 

Hullo, Phil,

 

No, only the cobblestones and the roof papers are on watercolour papers, and remebering to turn off 'Edge smoothing' Epson printing.

 

Doug

[norseman]

I can just echo the other and marvel over great modelling! As I build in cards myself it is great to see other peoples work in the same material.

[PhilH]

Hullo, Phil,

 

No, only the cobblestones and the roof papers are on watercolour papers, and remebering to turn off 'Edge smoothing' Epson printing.

 

Doug

 

Thanks Doug - I might have a look round to see if there any textured papers which could be used with the brick downloads, although I expect a lot have tried this before.

[Chubber]

Thanks Doug - I might have a look round to see if there any textured papers which could be used with the brick downloads, although I expect a lot have tried this before.

 

Phil you might try going to an art shop and looking at an 'Acrylics' pad. It is very finely textured with criss-cross pattern on one side. Good luck!

 

D

[PhilH]

Phil you might try going to an art shop and looking at an 'Acrylics' pad. It is very finely textured with criss-cross pattern on one side. Good luck!

 

D

 

Again, thanks Doug.

[Coombe Barton]

Has anyone tried Conqueror Laid Board - about 90 gsm? Haven't used it for years, but printed the right way it may be great for woodgrain/clapboard finishes. Have to try and find some to experiment.