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TTS sound Schenker 08. Swap sound to another 08?


drgj
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I've looked at transfering the older Loksound fitted version to a non-sound fitted one in the past. The main difference appeared to be that the sound fitted one had an open front radiator grille with the speaker behind it, the non-sound one had a solid grille.

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Weren’t the older sound fitted ones 21 pin too?

From memory, yes. I was looking at swapping the bodies over on the chassis so I wasn't concerned about the chassis differences. I think the speaker was attached to the body too.

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From memory, yes. I was looking at swapping the bodies over on the chassis so I wasn't concerned about the chassis differences. I think the speaker was attached to the body too.

 

The older, Loksound fitted version was 21 pin and had a terrible speaker fitted. Best place for that is in the bin.

 

Fit a 12 x 15 sugar cube speaker to the chassis behind the radiator and the decoder either in the space vacated by the 21 pin socket or above the motor if you use the 8 pin socket chassis.

 

The orientation of the motor has changed too. The current model ha the motor with the flat sides top and bottom, the older type on left and right. If youhave the older version, the motor can be turned a quarter of a turn on its axis to give additional space above it for the decoder. Remamber to insulate all exposed metal and electrical contacts.

 

Should work well,

 

Paul

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Thanks for the replies.  I suppose mine will have a solid radiator grille which will be a stumbling block. I'll have a look at it.

 

Dave

 

No, there's no need to drill holes, the sugar cube speaker works well without modifying the body. I know this sounds counter-intuitive, but it works.

 

Paul

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I've tried this.

 

I have a super detail EWS 08 (not named) - not sure how old the model is but I bought Olivias Trains TTS 08 chip and speaker. Here's some thoughts:

 

1) Mine is faulty. Olivias Trains suggested it was (my fault when fitting) the chip, but Hornby suggested trying a few CV settings to see what the response was. It worked, but now it's back to the usual not working again. I think I'll be sending it back to Hornby.

 

The loco works fine with another chip and under DC so there's something not right.

 

2) You might not be able to rotate the motor. Mine has a shaped gromit on the end (like a D I think), so when you rotate the motor, it won't fit back in properly. I managed to squeeze mine on the very top but it's really right.

 

3) I assume the speaker is the same as supplied from Hornby but it fits into a little section behind the grill at the front quite neatly. When it did work, mine was fine without cutting into the model (it doesn't have holes in the grill). Could hear all the sounds fine.

 

So not sure if the pressure is whats messing up the decoder or what's happening.

When I put it on the programming track, the Prodigy Advance can't read any CVs or the name of the chip. Can't write anything either. I can hear a tiny buzz so I know the loco is getting power... Wheels aren't dirty either so it's stumped me.

 

There was a suggestion some DCC controllers didn't work with some chips, but Hornby said this was only on a limited amount of chips and it was many months ago so all stock should have been sold/repaired/recalled by now.

 

Please keep the thread updated though.

I'll try and post some pictures early next week of mine as I've seen quite a few different motor configurations for these locos.

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I've been having a fair bit of trouble fitting the decoder into a couple of older Hornby 08s, namely an original R2418 and an R3048, both of which accept the supplied speaker perfectly but there just doesn't appear to be enough room above the motor to fit the decoder. Is there any chance of a few photos from those who've managed to fit the decoder in with the 'original style' motor?

Dave

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So it seems after a little fiddling, the chip came back to life.  CV8=8 and it's all better again.  Don't want to have to do this every time I play with it though :/

This is a Hornby R2934.

 

Anyway...

 

Side of loco when the chip is placed on top of the motor (without rotating the motor):

post-29706-0-86078700-1520866352_thumb.jpg

 

Opening up:

post-29706-0-90429000-1520866435_thumb.jpg

 

Naked 08:

post-29706-0-35324300-1520866530_thumb.jpg

 

Motor that has flat sides:

post-29706-0-65977700-1520866603_thumb.jpg

 

They clearly planned for sound when casting the body as the speaker fits in pretty nicely:

post-29706-0-96707100-1520866646_thumb.jpg

 

Here's a video of the 08 how it is:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=14CYQTejfRmXGIMk06FiMd6Es2NyP3J3u

 

The sound is fairly tinny as

1) it's the default TTS speaker/sound.

2) took the video on my phone.

 

It also sounds like the engine sound cuts in and out but it doesn't when watching live.

 

I considered putting the chip at the very front behind the grill and leaving the speaker just behind but then the speaker unit came into contact with the motor, so though it best not to have it that way.

Tried putting the chip under the motor but that wouldn't fit.

Tried on top of the socket but no go there either.

Down the sides I hear you cry?  Then the body bulges out.

 

The only place that it will pretty much fit is on top of the motor.

Edited by Sir TophamHatt
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So it seems after a little fiddling, the chip came back to life.  CV8=8 and it's all better again.  Don't want to have to do this every time I play with it though :/

This is a Hornby R2934.

 

Anyway...

 

Side of loco when the chip is placed on top of the motor (without rotating the motor):

attachicon.gifIMG_20180312_134323.jpg

 

Opening up:

attachicon.gifIMG_20180312_134353.jpg

 

Naked 08:

attachicon.gifIMG_20180312_134409.jpg

 

Motor that has flat sides:

attachicon.gifIMG_20180312_134434.jpg

 

They clearly planned for sound when casting the body as the speaker fits in pretty nicely:

attachicon.gifIMG_20180312_135501.jpg

 

Here's a video of the 08 how it is:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=14CYQTejfRmXGIMk06FiMd6Es2NyP3J3u

 

The sound is fairly tinny as

1) it's the default TTS speaker/sound.

2) took the video on my phone.

 

It also sounds like the engine sound cuts in and out but it doesn't when watching live.

 

I considered putting the chip at the very front behind the grill and leaving the speaker just behind but then the speaker unit came into contact with the motor, so though it best not to have it that way.

Tried putting the chip under the motor but that wouldn't fit.

Tried on top of the socket but no go there either.

Down the sides I hear you cry?  Then the body bulges out.

 

The only place that it will pretty much fit is on top of the motor.

 

A bit unconventional I know but  one of my 08's has the Zimo micro decoder stuck on the underside between the front wheels .

To do this , I cut part of the keeper plate away ( the wheels don't fall out ! )

This area was duly insulated with double sided tape and the decoder is  stuck down ,

Two holes are drilled at an angle just in front of the front motor cradle bracket ( the one with the  'D' shape that others have mentioned )

The wires are fed through to enter the ' engine compartment '  where orange / grey go direct to motor ( remove interference capacitor ) 

Red / Black go to pick ups , these can be tucked under motor . the other wires were joined to the express models lighting circuit board .

The wires from here went to the white / red and cab lights ,

Finally , an additional blue and grey wire went to the' stay alive ' which was perched above the space formerly occupied by the decoder 

socket , hence the reason why the decoder couldn't be  sited there .

There is no problem at all with the decoder in that position , not even with uncoupling ramps .

 

My most recent install used a Loksound Micro ( with no stay alive ) and Stickswipe lighting kits from eBay

This made sound and light installation mush easier .

The Micro sits where the socket used to be and is hard wired as before , there's no central lighting circuit board to contend with , just

lighting boards that sit behind the light positions .

The single sugar cube fits just behind the grille .

 

HTH

Albie  

Edited by Albie the plumber
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I always remove the grill, cut a square out in order to fit a sugar cube in to enable the sound to escape, 3 08s to date that way. not a method for the faint hearted though as one slip and your loco is ruined

Edited by gooderz
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I always remove the grill, cut a square out in order to fit a sugar cube in to enable the sound to escape, 3 08s to date that way. not a method for the faint hearted though as one slip and your loco is ruined

 

True but its got to be done .

Besides, there are plenty of other ways to ruin your Gronk !

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I've been fitting sound to an 08 for someone recently so I thought it might be useful for this thread if I posted a picture of where it all goes. This is a very recent release from Hornby with the motor the correct way round. If the motor is 'upright' rather than having the flat surfaces at the top and bottom you will need to unscrew the piece at the nose end, make the hole round and spin the motor 1/4 of a turn, I would then glue the bracket to the motor to keep it in position.

 

Anyway this one was ready to go. I hard wired it rather than using the 8 pin socket, this allowed me to use a Zimo SC68 capacitor to help it over points etc. The capacitor goes in the space vacated by the 8 pin socket, the rear 'legs' which surround the space need cutting off or filing back so theres space for the capacitor to go right to the back of the available space. Next I cut a bit of plastic (any thing plastic will do) to act as a bridge over the flywheel to keep the wires away from it. Then I connected it all up. I was provided with a Micro to install but if I was doing it myself I would buy a full size decoder which there is enough space for. I have used 1 sugarcube speaker because thats all you can have with a zimo micro decoder or TTS. if using a full size zimo or loksound 4 decoder you can have 2 of them which fit fairly easily, one on top of the other in the same place behind the grill. The blue, yellow and white wires have been left tied up so I can fit lights before putting it back together.

 

Proof that there is no need to put anything outside of the model or in the cab, I've done this on quite a few now and it always gives good results. I got this method from Paul Chetter who makes the Zimo sound file. All I've done differently is the lights. I make the lights myself from fibre optic and smd LED's, theres no space for a circuit board like you get from express models. I'm always available to do fitting if anyone needs it.

 

 

 

Richard

 

It's also worth noting that the normal size decoder (ZIMO MX645) has all the Stay Alive management control on board, so the additional components shown on the plastic bridge in Richard's photo would not be required. (Just connect the Blue and the Grey wires from the decoder to the stay alive).

 

Paul

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  • 2 years later...
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Raising this thread a bit here, but I am slightly confused as I have a Hornby 08 which I bought years ago, it is a TTS version with opening doors and it is fitted with a 21 pin Loksound (where as the non sound has an 8 pin socket), I don’t understand why Hornby fitted a V4 rather than the normal TTS decoder, not that I am complaining as it works really well, and even the speaker after packing the rear of the speaker with black tac to seal it sounds very good.

 

There just seems to have been quite a few different internal arrangements for these Locos.

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15 hours ago, boxbrownie said:

Raising this thread a bit here, but I am slightly confused as I have a Hornby 08 which I bought years ago, it is a TTS version with opening doors and it is fitted with a 21 pin Loksound (where as the non sound has an 8 pin socket), I don’t understand why Hornby fitted a V4 rather than the normal TTS decoder, not that I am complaining as it works really well, and even the speaker after packing the rear of the speaker with black tac to seal it sounds very good.

 

There just seems to have been quite a few different internal arrangements for these Locos.

 

The 21-pin is the original Hornby sound version (R-number suffix XS) which used an ESU sound decoder.

The more recent model (R-number suffix TTS) uses the 8-pin TTS decoder.

The reason the V4.0 21-pin ESU sound decoder was fitted is because TTS hadn’t been invented then.

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1 hour ago, RAF96 said:

 

The 21-pin is the original Hornby sound version (R-number suffix XS) which used an ESU sound decoder.

The more recent model (R-number suffix TTS) uses the 8-pin TTS decoder.

The reason the V4.0 21-pin ESU sound decoder was fitted is because TTS hadn’t been invented then.

Interesting......looks like I won that one then :lol:

 

Also explains the different speaker fitted to the body/grill rather than just in free air when the body is removed.

Edited by boxbrownie
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