Chris56057 Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 I'm looking for a suitable adhesive for fitting an etched namplate to a locomotive. Would appreciate any sugesstions Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Don't use adhesive. Use double-sided tape. Suitably trimmed, it's invisible and when you decide it's not quite straight after all the next morning, just give it a nudge with a finger nail to straighten it. That would be my advice anyway. Cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris56057 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Thanks Dave, I will go and give it a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Evostick. In my capacity as a professional model painter I used it for over forty years on name and number plates. Thats a lot of locomotives! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Karhedron Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Evostick. In my capacity as a professional model painter I used it for over forty years on name and number plates. Thats a lot of locomotives! Yes, Evostick (or similar impact adhesive) is very good for nameplates. It grabs well but retains a degree of flexibilty for several minutes while drying allowing the position and orientation to be fine-tuned. Apply small amounts to the back of the nameplate and the body of the loco using a cocktail stick. Wait a few minutes for the glue to go tacky and then carefully press into position and get it squared. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I've been using micro kristal klear of late as it avoids most risk of damaging the model Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted June 23, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 23, 2011 Matt varnish, we've used it for years, if it leaks it doesn't ruin the paint job and it allows adjustment before it sets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormbringer Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 I use satin varnish for attaching nameplates etc to flat surfaces. Pete Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Well, that's that wrapped up then, it's obviously best to use double-sided tape, err well maybe satin varnish, errr no, matt varnish, errm evostick err wait a minute, I mean krystal clear... Glad to see such a good general consensus on the best way to attached nameplates. It just goes to show how many perfectly valid techniques there are in our hobby, all to produce the same result. Great stuff. Cheers, Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 It just goes to show how many perfectly valid techniques there are in our hobby, all to produce the same result. Great stuff. Er, they're only valid if they stand the test of time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Er, they're only valid if they stand the test of time. Well, it seemed like there were a lot of "I've been doing it this way for years"-type statements in this thread, so I'm guessing most of these methods do stand the test of time. I've certainly never had any time-related problems with the double-sided tape method and I can still adjust them if I don't think they're quite straight when viewed from a certain angle. It also enables the plates to be removed without trace in the event of de- or renaming. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Well, it seemed like there were a lot of "I've been doing it this way for years"-type statements in this thread, so I'm guessing most of these methods do stand the test of time. Amateurs can tell you what they like. Pros HAVE to make sure they will stand the test of time. Big difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUTLER2579 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 Evostick. In my capacity as a professional model painter I used it for over forty years on name and number plates. Thats a lot of locomotives! Self Praise is no praise,but I will say it for him. They don't come any better than L. G. (Coachman). Not a mate of his or any connection,just a True Statement of Fact. Regards,Del. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium newbryford Posted June 23, 2011 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 23, 2011 I admit to using most of the above - whichever happens to be conveniently near on the workbench................ Unless it's a Class 66 and I'll use Evostik because it has a bit more substance than superglue to stick over the corrugated body. Mick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 Amateurs can tell you what they like. Pros HAVE to make sure they will stand the test of time. Big difference. Sorry, I was forgetting my place on this forum. A mere amateur, Dave WW Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris56057 Posted June 29, 2011 Author Share Posted June 29, 2011 A great reference point for this question in the future, thanks lads . I've gone with Matt Varnish- low risk!. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold beast66606 Posted June 29, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2011 A great reference point for this question in the future, thanks lads . I've gone with Matt Varnish- low risk!. Amateur Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 You are amateurs not only on here but in the wider world unless you make your living from it day in day out as several people do. I tried to point out that a person taking other peoples money for doing a job cannot afford to take chances. That is why I mentioned the glue I had used successfully for 40 years. The locos that came back for attention to scratches showed the glue had indeed stood the test of time. Sadly the old politics of envy surfaced (from predictable sources) as evidenced by the points system awarded for clever remarks. Sad people.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 You are amateurs not only on here but in the wider world unless you make your living from it day in day out as several people do. I tried to point out that a person taking other peoples money for doing a job cannot afford to take chances. That is why I mentioned the glue I had used successfully for 40 years. The locos that came back for attention to scratches showed the glue had indeed stood the test of time. Sadly the old politics of envy surfaced (from predictable sources) as evidenced by the points system awarded for clever remarks. Sad people.... To go horribly off-thread for a moment: Speaking for myself, I admire other modellers who are better than me, I don’t envy them. I, like many modellers of all creeds and abilities I suspect, am happy with what I produce, far from perfect though it may be. Envy doesn't come into it. Whether a modeller is a professional or amateur is entirely irrelevant in my eyes. It is their ability and end product that counts. Only the other day, I was considering buying a professionally renumbered loco but just to make sure I had a look on their website. In the end, I decided I could do better (and in saying this I'm not trying to make myself out to be some sort of expert modeller). Equally, there are many 'amateur' modellers on this site whose work I greatly admire and could never hope to emulate. The professional/amateur distinction that you set so much store by is completely irrelevant in my opinion. My own remarks were simply a response to what came across to me as a rather high-handed, dismissive and condescending attitude on your part, if you don't mind me saying so. I do not question your modelling ability or the suitability of your method for fixing loco nameplates. However, I think the methods suggested by every other modeller in this thread are just as valid and helpful (assuming they are tried and tested, as most of them seem to be). I do not wish to fuel any controversial debate with this post and I doubt the point I am making will change your opinion of 'amateur' modellers, to use your distinction. However, I felt it needed to be made. Happy modelling to professional and amateur modellers alike. Cheers, Dave WW PS Chris56057 – great, glad you managed to make a choice. I still think you’ve made the wrong one though! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coachmann Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 The professional/amateur distinction that you set so much store by is completely irrelevant in my opinion. My own remarks were simply a response to what came across to me as a rather high-handed, dismissive and condescending attitude on your part, if you don't mind me saying so. Of course I hold great store about being professional. But more importantly, so do the people that entrust their models to me. A person only stays in business for 40 years by being good at what they do. I did not join RMweb to sell anything. Over the years I have done quite a lot of writing on here describing step-by-step painting, masking and lining out coaches, what equipment to use, how to build various makers coaches, conversions, weathering locos, how to fit a new chassis into old locos and so on. If I was the sort of person you describe, I would not be the sort of person to have taken the time and trouble to write and illustrate threads and blogs. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Etched Pixels Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 The thing about most professionals is they will build a *lot* of stuff. If you build stuff for fun and you add plates to ten locos and one comes off in a couple of years and gets refixed its no deal. If you are doing it as a full time job then you've probably done a hundred or more in ten years and if any of them come off its a big deal ! Plus you've had ten years to get earache when you get it wrong.. It's not necessarily about skill level, its about acceptable failure rate and that tends to be a full time v for fun thing. (now of course in Coachmann's case he's both a pro and a bit good!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 It's not necessarily about skill level, its about acceptable failure rate and that tends to be a full time v for fun thing. Actually for me and, I suspect, a few others too, it was almost entirely about attitude towards fellow modellers. And, at the risk of being provocative, my method has never once failed in ten years, on inumerable locos. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Colin_McLeod Posted June 29, 2011 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 29, 2011 Actually for me and, I suspect, a few others too, it was almost entirely about attitude towards fellow modellers. I agree that attitude is what helps forum members interact positively. Having said that I did not read into Coachman's posts the bad attitude you have described. I think you have got the wrong end of the stick and I don't see any "my method is best - I should know" type posts. What I do see is a post that states that Coachman's method has been very reliable for him for 40 years. As you said yourself in post #10 there are many perfectly valid techniques of affixing nameplates. Use the one that suits you best whether or not you are being paid for it. Cheers and happy modelling everybody, both amature and professional. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren01 Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Hi For the name plates on my loco's i use matt varnish , just put a thin layer on the back of the name plate and then place it on the loco. Once the varnish drys out it will pull the name plate onto the model ,even works on West countrys with the creasts on the rounded body . Do not use super glue as the fumes can make the paint go white . Hope this helps All the best Darren Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waverley West Posted June 29, 2011 Share Posted June 29, 2011 Having said that I did not read into Coachman's posts the bad attitude you have described. I think you have got the wrong end of the stick and I don't see any "my method is best - I should know" type posts. What I do see is a post that states that Coachman's method has been very reliable for him for 40 years. I must have misinterpreted the "Amateurs can tell you what they like" statement, then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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