Timara Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 Brilliant stuff, Tom and Tim, inspirational. Still waiting for my 60860 'Durham School' here in NZ. May I ask if you blacked the rods and valve gear, or was that the vagaries of light? Rob Thankyou Rob. The rods are still as they came from the box. The fun starts tomorrow Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidw Posted July 31, 2012 Share Posted July 31, 2012 A big improvement. Pity that the Smoke box door isn't available as a spare - I used a margate one on mine - curiously a knock with a hammer released the old one -perhaps Bachmann changed the tooling (?) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
benachie Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Can anyone comment further (see post #28) on the possibility/difficulties of attaching an original body to the new chassis? Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverlink Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Further to my original post (124) here are a couple of pics of 60828 (50A) which will be joining the 'Haymarket Cross' fleet for Pickering show.18/19th Aug. TENDER MOD WITH COAL LOAD Cheers Ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
benachie Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 The fireman has been meticulous about tidying spilled coal out of the back of the tender! Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 ... I am however still thinking about a fall plate to cover the gap between engine and tender; ... The same piece of chequerplated iron as hung off the back of pacific cabs is my memory of it. The old split chassis model, there was a rigid cab floor projection which more than covered the gap, if you monkeyed about with the loco to tender coupling to bring the two to correct separation. I put a wire link in as the plastic hook was gross, and filed down the intermediate buffers on the tender front (at an oblique as viewed in plan) to allow swinging enough for the 30" minimum radius my mainline types have to negotiate. Then the fixed fall plate representation had to have its corners bevelled to clear the tender front. Can anyone comment further (see post #28) on the possibility/difficulties of attaching an original body to the new chassis? If nobody else does, I will as it will be job one when it lands. Just before this revision was announced I was busy fitting a BR std 5 chassis to a V2 body which had terminally worn out its split chassis mech, and that was proving easy enough despite not being a chassis designed to fit. (As someone has already observed as soon as you start seriously bashing your RTR about, the manufacturers magically come up with the goods. On everything except that J6 which I would really like in RTR form - such a useful chassis for GN types...) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 31A Posted August 1, 2012 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 1, 2012 The same piece of chequerplated iron as hung off the back of pacific cabs is my memory of it. The old split chassis model, there was a rigid cab floor projection which more than covered the gap, if you monkeyed about with the loco to tender coupling to bring the two to correct separation. I put a wire link in as the plastic hook was gross, and filed down the intermediate buffers on the tender front (at an oblique as viewed in plan) to allow swinging enough for the 30" minimum radius my mainline types have to negotiate. Then the fixed fall plate representation had to have its corners bevelled to clear the tender front. Thanks, I suspect you are right. I'll try and come up with an arrangement similar to that Peppercorn Pacifics. I've just been re-reading the Green Book, and it seems the fall plates were originally attached to the tenders, but later moved to the locos, which explains why the picture of a newly-constructed uncoupled loco doesn't show one. It also says, at the same time the fixed rearward extension of the cab floor was cut back, which is handy as I've bevelled the corners of mine (similar to your description) to the extent that there's almost nothing left - might as well go the whole hog, really! So, who's going to be the first to fit one with a copper capped chimney and call it 60854 then? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Probably a stupid question. But what the hey! I am away from my books at home and this question has been nagging me all day. Having been reminded that I have a set of two Hornby B1 tenders that I managed to procure from two people undertaking K1 conversions, am I right in thinking that the Hornby B1 tender could be used as a straight swop for specific V2s to be modelled - or am I thinking of the group standard tenders which went behind the B17s, which Hornby will also produce soon? (confused of Sidcup) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tom F Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Probably a stupid question. But what the hey! I am away from my books at home and this question has been nagging me all day. Having been reminded that I have a set of two Hornby B1 tenders that I managed to procure from two people undertaking K1 conversions, am I right in thinking that the Hornby B1 tender could be used as a straight swop for specific V2s to be modelled - or am I thinking of the group standard tenders which went behind the B17s, which Hornby will also produce soon? (confused of Sidcup) V2 tenders were not flush sided (which Hornby's are), but had extra sheeting above the lining, so you have that noticeable line on the top half off the tender. B1s had a mixture of flush sided and the similar V2 type tender. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 Can anyone comment further (see post #28) on the possibility/difficulties of attaching an original body to the new chassis? Very simple. The new body has slightly shortened 'frames' behind the pony truck wheel arch, and a slightly less deep transverse piece which takes the tab on the chassis at the front end. (There is a witness mark in the new moulding indicating the shortening for those who want to measure rather than hack away by eye.) Carve the old body to match. At the rear, the original securing screw boss, and the transverse rib behind it under the cab floor have to be completely removed from the old moulding to allow the new chassis in. If the new model's two rear securing screws are to be used, then a couple of bosses will have to be made from sprue or similar and cemented on using the new chassis as a template for positioning. Mr Crude here will likely just put a small self tapper through one of the holes directly into the cab floor. I haven't actually completed this yet as getting the lead 'Evostuck' on the firebox sides of my old bodies is a slightly slow process; but that won't trouble those who don't abuse their bodies... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robmcg Posted August 2, 2012 Share Posted August 2, 2012 All very interesting stuff, but Royal Mail have still not managed to get a tracked air parcel containing one V2 even out of the UK yet from Hattons even 2 weeks after purchase... well 12 days, or 8 working days, or... maybe someone just forgot to 'enter' details, as the Royal Mail says the parcel has been received and 'is being made ready for export', whatever that means. Mark my words, 'heads will roll' !!! Not... But things are looking up. It has been days since this site has offered up SQL Error. At least on the occasions when it will load... British Rail was quite efficient really, wasn't it? Rob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Okay, a couple of photos to whet the appetite; there will be more later if we get any sun to photograph things in. I've gone as much to town as I've felt was necessary here. The object of the exercise being to use as much of the original model as possible, but adding all manner of detail parts to bring it into line with current offerings from both Bachmann's better stuff and those from Hornby. Run-down of parts is as follows: Hornby: drain cocks, chimney, smokebox door, cab interior (ex A3) Graeme King: resin dome Peasholm Models: cab doors The last detail were spare oil boxes left over from various A2 conversions. There need to be two to three of these under the smokebox. Look at loco being modelled to ascertain how many are required and where they go. Final weathering using my usual methods (details in my weathering thread later). Tom insisted I weather her, much as I know he could do a damn fine job on it. Final comparison with an A3 for the smokebox side of things. I'm reasonably happy with how this one has turned out, though I do feel that there has been an opportunity missed here. Here's hoping for something better in time to come? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidw Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Good on you Tim - that looks very good indeed -almost like a V2. You're giving me ideas..! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidw Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Just a thought, any idea where I can get a new smoke box door dart? I found my super detail door but the handle was missing! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
micklner Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Mainly Trains are the cheapest I have found and good quality. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 I'm absolutely blown away by that model - utterly nails the essence of what a V2 should look like. What an inspiration she is. Cracking work Tim, it's your best yet! Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gr.king Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 Tim / Tom: Definitely an improvement on the factory product and as good as you can get in many ways without undertaking more drastic boiler replacement surgery. Not sure about the round based buffers mind, says he, being painfully pedantic. David: Re a smokebox dart, if you haven't the patience to order one, thread two shoulderless handrail pillars onto a decent length of wire, fix with a spot of solder (or even superglue), then trim the wire down to just a planting stub and trim the handles to suitable lengths. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 You know Graeme, I'd not noticed the buffers until now! Perhaps I (wrongly) thought they were the ones Bachmann do as standard on their LNER locos and chose to ignore them! I'll see about robbing the correct double action ones from the same donor A3 body...... They should hopefully do the trick, I hope! Cheers, Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tom F Posted August 3, 2012 Share Posted August 3, 2012 After literally watchimg this conversion over the past two days, I'm still over whelmed by the job Tim has done. Last night it got the point where Tim kept finding new things to add onto the locomotive. The oil boxes have made a big difference as the Bachmann model looks very bleak on the running plate from the smokebox to the frames at the front. She really is a beauty, and the A3 smokebox door just alters it's appearance completely. Graeme's suggestion regarding the buffers is a good one, and Tim is currently removing the buffers off the A3 donor body we have been using to add to 60977 later this evening. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 I had hoped to put this one up last night, but it soon passed what I call a sensible time during photo processing. This view shows the front end modifications to their best advantage. The inside cylinder access hatch is a piece of 10 thou plasticard with a stub of 0.4mm wire inserted in the middle. The front frames have been halved in width as they're horrendously thick. I did forget to add to my previous post about the use of a spare ashpan lever from Grame King and Morgan Gilbert's Thompson pacific smoke deflector etch. It does add to what I can say is something I'm rather pleased with in terms of the end result. Can one add anything to this model perhaps? Maybe....... I'm drawing a line under this one and it'll be interesting to see who fancies more of a challenge to go that bit further. EDIT: forgot to mention the new buffers are in place and do make a much improved appearance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 A couple of potential pitfalls. Check your chosen locomotive for its smokebox door type. The A3 smokebox door from my St Gatien has the rivets on the smokebox door straps quite prominent and this doesn't cover all of the class throughout its life. Luckily I have found that 60903 has in fact had both types, flush and riveted, during its life, but some also had the split handrail A1 type smokebox door in later life. I'm as yet to find a V2 with the A3 type draincocks - is this a detail specific to your locomotive, Tom? 60903 (my chosen example) only appears to have the two pipe draincocks as supplied, the Hornby A3 type has the triple piping that the A3s had as standard. Lastly - slightly amused to find my choice of 60903 will not be correct unless I replace the torpedo ends on the cylinders with the other type (can't remember the colloquial term, it's the type which is standard on the A4 Pacifics). I am therefore going to use standard Hornby A4 cylinder ends (but not the A4 cylinders) to modify mine to the correct type. The V2s seem to have a mixture of these throughout their lives (looking at "Working Steam" by Gavin Morrison) so check photographs before you start cutting and shutting. I can't as yet find a photograph with 60903 with the "British Railways" on the tender so am going to leave it with the cycling lion on my example. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timara Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 I'm as yet to find a V2 with the A3 type draincocks - is this a detail specific to your locomotive, Tom? 60903 (my chosen example) only appears to have the two pipe draincocks as supplied, the Hornby A3 type has the triple piping that the A3s had as standard. They're A4 draincocks, rather than those off an A3. If people wish to pare the additional pipe off, then fine. Lastly - slightly amused to find my choice of 60903 will not be correct unless I replace the torpedo ends on the cylinders with the other type (can't remember the colloquial term, it's the type which is standard on the A4 Pacifics). I am therefore going to use standard Hornby A4 cylinder ends (but not the A4 cylinders) to modify mine to the correct type. The V2s seem to have a mixture of these throughout their lives (looking at "Working Steam" by Gavin Morrison) so check photographs before you start cutting and shutting. Almost all V2s in BR period seem to have those Simon, but there aren't any spare parts to be able to do that here, so I'm leaving them as they are for now. It's not a biggy to be honest though . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
S.A.C Martin Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 They're A4 draincocks, rather than those off an A3. If people wish to pare the additional pipe off, then fine. Fair enough Tim. Almost all V2s in BR period seem to have those Simon, but there aren't any spare parts to be able to do that here, so I'm leaving them as they are for now. It's not a biggy to be honest though . Again, fair enough. No worries! Doesn't detract from the look of Tom's model at all. Peter's Spares do the A4 cylinders on which those parts are able to be removed easily (probably teaching you to suck eggs here, but for anyone else, that's how I am modifying my V2). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gordon s Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Took a break from the Olympics this morning to run in my two V2's. Couldn't resist this one for Mike (60860 on the forum). So far both loco's run well other than a very slight wobble which has blurred the lettering a little... Loads to do over the next few months, judging by this thread... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
trisonic Posted August 4, 2012 Share Posted August 4, 2012 Nitpicker! Looks good to me but will look even better once you have weathered it.... Best, Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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