happyChappy

This info about the Royal Arsenal railway network shows that steam was used in the early days:https://www.royal-arsenal-history.com/royal-arsenal-railway.html . However, not really relevant to your specific RNAD questions. A generic RN depot with no explosives stored on site sounds like a fair 'excuse' to use steam. Maybe someone could suggest a real-life site as an example? Here's some Wiki info on all RNAD sites but it doesn't include any without armaments: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Royal_Naval_Armaments_Depot#Under_the_Board_of_Ordnance Perhaps the 'A' in RN'A'D is the clue!

I'll bet someone, somewhere has an early photo of a steam loco at an MOD depot. Can't say I've seen one though. Perhaps if the depot didn't actually store explosives it would be acceptable otherwise it's petrol/diesel/battery motive power. You could possibly justify a steam loco on 'specials' such as track maintenance operations but definitely nowhere near any explosives magazines. Sorry, I've no idea when those RNAD vans were originally built. Most depot photos show flat wagons with end planks, (like the planned Bachmann wagons), and tarpaulin sheets over the loads.

Thanks for both the above replies. Although all my current locos are diesel I'm so tempted by such a cute loco. Good running characteristics are an extra encouragement. Slight problem is my MOD-based layout has absolutely no steam facilities and, in any case, steam locos and explosives storage aren't a good mix!

Thanks Barry. I'm always interested to hear how new locos actually run rather than how perfectly formed they are. Seems like this achieves both which is excellent news.

Looking good. It appears that it may even have a working head/tail light. Hope the chassis is available separately as it will be very useful especially if it has a flywheel and runs well. It could well topple the ubiquitous Kato 109 from the 'chassis of choice' for scratchbuilders.

Good to see the excellent quality of the chassis with decent wheel bearings and fitted flywheel. As there must now be a fair number of these locos actually out there would anyone care to comment on their slow-running capabilities? There seem to be a few possible wheel quartering issues with the new large Hunslets so I'm wondering if these quarry Hunslets are similarly affected?

Thanks to those of you that have replied about the new Vanwide wheels being 'magnetic' (or not). I may have not asked the right question which is, or more precisely, - will these new wheelsets be attracted to under-track magnets? So if you hold a magnet under the wheelset/axle does it stick to the wheelset /axle? Hope this is clearer.

Can someone confirm if the new wheels/axles are magnetic or not? I use Kaydee couplings and always have to swap out the (usually magnetic) Bachmann wheelsets to avoid the vehicle being 'grabbed' by the under-track magnets.

I prefer to paint assembled 'sub-units' such as the boiler, (or bonnet on a diesel) and cab separately. Do use a suitable primer. As above, paint the cab roof separately before fitting to the cab so the cab interior can be accessed for final finishing. Yellow wasp stripe buffer beams are easiest pre-painted before fitting to the footplate ends. Once all paintwork is dry I use 2 part clear epoxy to assemble larger components (e.g cab to footplate etc.). Smaller details are ok assembled using superglue. Good luck with the build.

Had a reply direct from James at 6point5, (thanks James), who has answered my query. Was hoping to squeeze a 10mm wide Mashima motor into the bonnet but it's just not possible.

Thanks for your reply which I appreciate. I'll have to think of some other cunning plan instead. It's a pity as your model makes an excellent 'modern image' diesel. My smallest Mashima motor is 10mm wide so just too wide unfortunately.

Hi James, can you tell me the internal and external dimensions of the bonnet area of this loco? I like the design and I'm wondering if I might be able to squeeze an 009 mechanism into it. Hope you can help.

If you have one of the 6point5 Jenbach diesels for the Busch 6.5mm chassis could you measure the bonnet length (inside and outside) and the bonnet width (inside and outside) for me? It would be a great help. Thanks in advance.

A view-blocking building at the front seems like an excellent idea. Your single story building looks just like the gate/guardhouse buildings at Chilmark and Dinton which have that distinctive open central porch area. For me it's all about creating an atmosphere that transports our imagination to the place in question and your layout is certainly achieving that. Another view at the bomb storage magazine side of the layout. Unusually busy with 2 locos in operation. I suspect this would be very rare in reality.

That's a lovely little Ruston. Would really look the business with a couple of VEA (ex Vanwide) vans in tow. By coincidence I also have a very small layout which is the exact opposite of your's - a single standard gauge track against an exchange platform to narrow gauge (009) very loosely based on MOD Dinton which is not that far from Ludgershall. All my narrow gauge locos are diesels mostly in a similar livery to your Ruston.

My interpretation loosely based on the Dinton system which was quite extensive and maintained in excellent condition right up to the early nineties.

Only 2 feeds are required - 1 just as you have drawn at the left hand end feeding into the toe of the left hand top turnout and the second feed between the turnouts in the centre of the diagram again as you have correctly drawn. To isolate the feeds just 2 cuts are required as follows: - cut both rails at gold point 2 on your diagram and both rails between the two turnouts at the left hand end of your diagram (i.e fit nylon track connectors in both rails between the two turnouts . No switches are required unless you wish to switch off either feed to isolate a loco on that section. Hope this helps.

My Minitrains chassis' are the most reliable I own but then I don't have a Baldwin so can't comment specifically. As mentioned above It certainly sounds like a jammed gear if there is no play whatsoever in the drivetrain. When I dismantle a tricky chassis I find it helps to photograph every single step so you can feel confident that you can retrace the dismantling process and refer back to each stage when re-assembling. Make sure you dismantle in a shoe-box or similar to contain all those tiny bits which may spring off to be consumed by the carpet monster! Good luck.

I have the 11-110 version (which replaces the 11-104) and can confirm the slow-speed running is absolutely fabulous. Using a Gaugemaster W controller, (so no feedback), the unit will creep along very slowly sleeper-by-sleeper from a smooth start. It's significantly better for slow speed running than the old 11-104 which I always thought was pretty good anyway. The improvement is sufficient for me to swap all my old 11-104s for the new 11-110. I also have an 11-109 on order but they don't seem to be freely available as yet in UK. I would expect performance to be similar to the 11-110 (hopefully).

I use round plastic rod heated and softened with a heat gun set on low heat . Very easy to form the characteristic 'swan neck' shape and then trim to length. You can even drill a small hole in the gutter so the top of the down-pipe locates securely.

Maybe Stonehenge had a completely different original purpose to that generally accepted!!

A great improvement over orange 'Rusty'. Will be interesting to see your finished 'Ruston'. Presumably the cab is completely filled by the chassis/motor when in situ so there's little room to add extra weight and/or a driver? How's the slow running capabilities of the chassis? HC

Fully deserved, Nile. I would imagine whichever exhibition you attend Scarside will always be a very strong contender for 'Best Layout' award. I just love your attention to detail and the overall atmosphere you've created.HC