hayfield

These motors were far better than the later ones and providing you have the correct type of controller they are fine

I know that putting one of these magnets on the magnet of a Triang Hornby or HD R1 motor improves them no end, Bill am I guessing right that one magnet on each side will do the same trick with the K's motors ?

Well, John, some of us do try to maintain some semblance of civilisation when attending these events. 

CMRA had changed the layout from last year when they had some tables but really there wasn't enough room allocated in either year to the refreshment bar. It's hard to see where extra space would come from without reducing traders or layouts and obviously the 'consist' of any one exhibition will vary. It's a balance isn't it but they'll never please all of us all the time and I expect that like hospital car parks whatever they do would never be enough. But those lines of chairs this year were just too close together.

 

I liked Ynysybwl too, a very tidy layout. My only observation on the track was the painting of the chairs which I felt were perhaps too different to the sleepers. But if I can ever model something even half as good I would be very happy.

 

Good to see you again.

Richard

Richard

You are quite correct in that there should be an even balance between layouts, traders and seating. The hall the refreshments were in  seemed to have less free space than the other hall. Also the stands where I was whilst having more space behind than normal had far less side by side to the extent that we had a long walk to get to the front of the stand

What may have affected it was the placing of the two larger layouts which dictated the siting of the middle two isles. Still minor complaints

Anyone know of he's attending Modelrailscotland ?

Not on his list of shows at the moment, trouble being he lives south of the Thames

I think it depends on what you are seeking from the second-hand market.

 

If you are looking for a "bargain", then buyer beware. The meaning of the word tends to be subjective. I'd be cagey about buying via the net without previous experience of the vendor or extremely good satisfaction ratings. 

 

I normally prefer to buy at swap-meets and exhibitions where I can physically inspect the goods but I have bought s/h from both Rails and Hatton's to my complete satisfaction. In all cases, the hard-to-find, discontinued, models purchased have met or exceeded any expectations raised by their descriptions. One loco in particular (from Hatton's) was mind-bogglingly perfect. The prices have been above what the models cost new, but only by 10-15% and well below what many ebay operators were asking for them. 

 

Suits me.

 

John

People forget that buying from eBay if the goods do not match the description you can ask for a full refund.

As with any auction most sellers want maximum resell value, those looking for bargains have to sift through these items then follow ones which are in their price range and buy accordingly.

Look for items which are badly presented, every now and then little gems pop up.

If you are a seller what you get is normally dictated by the quality of the listing. On the other hand be realistic on what you are selling, and market forces (most books re not selling for much) alter over time

Having sorted out the name of the mystery layout (see previous posts) I can now provide a link to some of the photos I took at the show on Saturday. All on phone and somehow I had set it to HDR, but I've tweaked them so hope they are acceptable.

 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/richardjslipper/albums/72157691495420794

 

Have to say I felt the show was equally as good as 2017. Exhibits of high quality especially Arun Quay - how do you get a baseboard join like that; Llangerisech - 2FS - which despite Jerry Clifford's denial I still think is a punishment option to a second hand hair shirt, Mauch Chunk - USA - HO which maybe the most interesting US layout I've seen, Ynysbwl - EM - great atmosphere but badly placed in the hall so that one end and the interesting 'backside' could not be easily viewed, Sandford and Banwell - P4 - oval layout with sound proving that it can be done with grace and style - the list is long and it is churlish to highlight only five.

 

Anything not so good? Well yes - seating. Quite inadequate for show of this size. Sitting down to eat some sandwiches bought on site I found the lines of chairs were cramped, the floor dirty with crumbs and liquids, no place to put bags and other bits such as drink, crisps, etc. In fact so cramped that when an oversize chap plonked himself on a spare set next to me he could not sit back and I was so squashed I couldn't lift my arms to eat. I got up and walked away to stand and finish my meal.

 

Also getting in - obviously it's a function of the venue but we went to the ground-floor to be told ticket sales were upstairs. Honestly, two old boys, a cash tin and a book of raffle tickets can work faster. Signage would have helped avoid so many people having to go up and down the stairs. (Sensible and securely fixed signage is not an H&S, or probably more accurately a liability insurance condition, issue.) A litter bin for the small peel off bits of the wrist bands would have improved the tidiness - the foyer looked untidy. (When I sought a bin, a steward suggested I throw the bit on the floor!)

 

But these are 'housekeeping' issues and we'll be back next year without a doubt.

Richard

How did you find time to sit down and eat !!!  You should pass the comments on to the CMRA, I am certain they would consider this matter is raised

Its their best show ever I have attended, certainly in quality. I had favourites but to judge the best layout in the show would be impossible. The trackwork, stock and scenery on Ynysybwl the Welsh EM gauge layout was one of my favourites, especially as they had a scenic fiddle yard !!

Actually , John , I use presoldered common crossings on my ply /functional chairs turnout construction too. mainly because it avoids me using collections of specialist chairs and i like the rigidity of the construction

The specialist chairs actually work in practice, with plastic timbers I only need soldered Vees, bonding & dropper wires. The solvent locks the rails in place, and for those less dexterous with the soldering iron far easier to use. But always each to their own, much better to build to your own comfort level 

Not read the thread but was there helping out on a stand for 2 days, I was amazed on the change in the show. Far more layouts, with all being at the better quality end the venue showing the layouts off at their best, trade support matched many of the larger shows. I hope there was lots through the turnstiles, but was space for many more.

Hopefully word will get out about the quality of the show and many more will attend in the future at what could be one of the best shows in the country. A big thanks to the CMRA organisers and stewards, 5 star show in my mind giving Alley Palley and Railex a good run for their money  

I think he must be slowly getting on top of things,  I had one of my orders come through before Christmas and just waiting on the last 1 now.  I am sure it'll all come together in the end

I was with Phil at the weekend and the advice he was giving folk was to phone him rather than email (he has a few issues with emails and with the spam filter either being too good or not good enough), also has spent the past 2 weeks meeting with suppliers picking up stock, supplies had been run down by the previous owner and apparently stock mixed up and unpacked.

He now has got most of the items back in stock, but needing packing up into retail sizes. Also has been chatting about which Exactoscale items could be commercially viable in the future.

Unlike Peter Phil is on his own, has no staff so if he is making up packs of parts then he is not addressing orders etc. He is doing his best to try and keep as many happy as he can,

Phoning is the best method of contacting him at this moment 

There are high temp ( circa 230 degrees ) capable superglues , which could be used to hold the Vero pin. This would allow soldering

 

But the point is , the veto pin adds nothing to the mix for ply construction. It's use was always suggested as a method for copperclad , where cosmetic half chairs ate subsequently added. Vero pins in ply , really add nothing over using Brook-Smith rivets

 

Having built pointwork from several types of sleppers material , copperclad , ply , and plastic , my own view is that for ply , using fullly functional plastic chairs is the way to go, it's the quickest overall in time , looks the best and actually is the easiest to assemble.

I totally agree with you as for using the plastic chairs functionally, well certainly with the plastic sleepers/timbers. Using ply timbers I still have a few personal issues with common crossings and feel that either using pre-made sub assemblies,

Whilst I have the tools for rivet construction to me the act of both punching holes and compressing rivets into thin ply an issue, the idea of using superglue after drilling holes into the thicker ply timbers is quite interesting

Thanks

Just in time

If it were a debt to a large company, then I guess the cost of recovery might well be seen to be uneconomical,

If it is a pension trust then either the trust or the rules applied by the body which oversees pensions may require the return of such funds (Charities have been accused in the past of being both uncaring and money grabbing when dealing with bequests) irrespective of the circumstances. Many pension funds are underfunded and or run by the pension rescue service, their duty is to all existing claimants, those applying these rules may have no other option in law 

Nearly 2 weeks into the new year and no modelling, what's happening ?.

To be quite honest C&D should contact the pension provider and request details of what the debt actually is and how much is owed

Qoute

and alleged that there was a relatively small pension over-payment for person 'A' over an unspecified number of years

If it is a small sum, and the reason found acceptable it might be wise to pay up rather than racking up expensive legal fees, normally these companies know what they can and cannot do

Kit 4101 from here might be an option as it was originally designed as an L1 replacement.

If that is so then its a great option, I have built the GEM 2-4-2t chassis and it was a joy, would take the loco to another level but would be a costly option

Thanks Gordon (and Mike) for the comments.

 

In this case, the pension provider of person 'A' was notified upon their death and the pension was stopped at the time.

 

The allegation about over-payment relates to an (as yet unspecified) period of time whilst person 'A' was still alive.

I guess from what you have written person B failed to notify the pension administrators that person A had passed away so person B should have received a reduced pension, I guess the pension administrators have a duty to the fund to recover the over payments. One thing to check is did the pension have a guarantee period where the pension would continue for a short period (this though normally for single life annuities). The pension company is dependant on the claimants informing them of any changes to their status, though the surviving claimant may well have been ignorant of this requirement.

Whilst I have no idea about the legalities, I would guess the pension company have a duty to reclaim these funds

Or you could fit Romford/Markits wheels to the LI chassis.

This is the best reply, You can buy the wheels from Markits and they do the correct axles for Triang chassis (you need one normal and one knarled for the gear wheel. These are self quartering and other than fitting the gear wheel an easy conversion. Would look even better with new coupling rods, but this is much harder if the correct size is not available off the shelf, but then you may decide to fit new hand rails etc (where do you stop)

A cheaper but more difficult jo would be to bush the axle holes to fit 1/8th  axles and use Alan Gibson wheels (with new coupling rods)

eBay could be a good place to buy older Romford wheels which could reduce costs as 26mm one come up quite often

I agree totally that you can spend hours on the web and achieve nothing (a bit like the 19 hole). In the end it is pointless building something you do not want/like. Perhaps putting this part of the project on the shelf for a while is the best option at the moment and concentrate on getting the circuit completed to allow trains to run could be the cure to the issues you are facing

It would be tragic if the ET thread was lost, however giving it a break for a while and restarting it after some progress is made to the main run is the best thing. Good luck and hope to see some progress prior to the golfing season starts in earnest

By the way 2 years since I picked up a club, hoping to take a couple of irons to the driving range next week now the house building is nearing the end internally, outside still work in progress!!

Hi Gordon,

 

If you file the blades flat you will have problems with a pivoted tie-bar fixing unless you significantly increase the 20p / 10p opening at the tip. Otherwise wheels will rub against the back of the open blade, causing at the very least a slowing of the train, if not a derailment.

 

When I suggested that amount of opening, I was assuming sufficient stiffness of the blade tip.

 

If you decide to go ahead with filing them flat, I suggest you leave a thickness of say 0.2mm at the tip instead of filing to a knife edge. You will then need to provide a GWR-style joggle in the stock rail (Templot has an option to print the stock rails with a joggle).

 

cheers,

 

Martin.

I have learnt to leave one half of the foot intact, and by using the EMGS switch rail filing jig, it has made it easier to file them up.

The benefit is that it will makes the solder joint (whatever system you use) much stronger. Even without the jig its not much more effort doing it than not. 

Still each to their own, if we all did the same life would be very boring 

For what ts worth a much better design in my opinion,

From what is posted on access to the sheds proves there is no hard and fast rule and after a quick look through one of my OPC books the simplest design was often the rule of the day, followed by what ever the space constraints allow, good choice as far as I am concerned. whilst there was the challenge of track building, I think there would always have been the doubt in back of your mind about would it ever have been built that way

Plasterboard adhesive (dot and dab stuff)

I would buy one of the many excellent books on scenic modelling, nothing looks better than slate than slate, but weight is the issue. Personally I would make both the baseboards and scenic frames as light as possible, using only a small amount of the real stuff for final detailing.

As for slate, no where near as common as it use to be, look for buildings being repaired, reclamation yards etc for the odd piece or discarded pieces

The Dublo R1 chassis is 26mm + 31mm* (inherited from the N2) or thereabouts (Meccano Ltd, was a strictly imperial business), which is rather the wrong way round for the above'

 

Interestingly about right for an H0 N2....

As we know from the past many kits started life as body only kits using RTR chassis, which at that time were both not a cheap option nor were there the variety about. Was of a time where the looks above the footplate were of more concern that under the footplate

Strange you bought up the N2 as I have a Stephen Poole kit (mostly unmade) which I have just unpacked from storage, looking at the instructions the only mention is to use a Triang or Wrenn chassis, no fitting instructions but looking at the footplate I think it is designed for either the Jinty or R1 chassis, plus no rear pony truck. One for eBay as I have a Nucast version with a Comet chassis

Back to the question re the chassis, whilst its not totally correct for a Wills U1 class its nearer than a R1 chassis. Will I ever get round to using it is another question

Phoenix Paints do a paint stripper which is plastic friendly

Bloomin' eck, first it was a 20p coin for 1.7mm clearance and then a 10p for 2mm and now another 2p...

 

Do you think I'm made of money?......

Not even mentioned the 50p bit or £1 & £2 coins !!!I have a steel bar 1" x 1/8" x 12" long, very usefull

Could be one of the welsh coal field tank locos ?

Hurry Richards O4 0-6-2T for the Taff? That caught my eye when I first saw a picture for having this unusual feature (other than for Stephenson long boiler types) of the second to third spacing being way shorter than the first to second.

Thanks for the quick answers, I think they are a set of Gibson milled frames (with holes rather than slots) in which case either an A or 01 class. Pity its not for a U class though given the fact that there is no bespoke SEF U class chassis ( it takes the Hornby Dublo R1 chassis) it could pass for one much better than the R1 chassis

Thanks again for all the assistance