curlypaws

@Sweetling Park The only advice I can offer is to get some plastic shims. Clear plastic packaging is good - you can cut it up to give you a number of pieces. You can then use it to help disengage the clips by inserting it between the body and chassis where the clips are and leave it there to stop the clips re-engaging as you work on the next set. Some people use toothpicks or plastic spatulas, but I prefer something fairly thin which doesn't distort the body. Business cards (or similar thin card) are another possibility. Just take your time as you ease the body off and watch out for any delicate parts which may get caught.

Turning off Railcom on my ESU ECoS controller didn't stop the buzz either. It does seem like the only solution is to fit a DCC decoder. And I also see the white lights regardless of direction without a decoder fitted. It would have been nice if decoder fitting didn't need removal of the body, given the warning about doing this too often. I'd like to be able to just fit a standard LokPilot chip to run the DT, but I expect I'll want to add the @charliepetty and @legomanbiffo sound chip once it is available. So I may just have to run without the DT for a bit 🙁.

I'm always amazed at the number of younger modellers who never saw steam running but enjoy visiting heritage lines and running steam locos on their layouts. I primarily remember the BR Blue period and never saw steam on BR, but there is something about the theatre of steam locomotives that remains attractive. So I think there is still a substantial market for steam well into the future. That said, I'd love to see more models of current day rolling stock which is increasingly EMU based.

That Strathclyde livery is looking very nice!

@scumcat I ended up buying one of the last Hattons 66s when they started offering the broken ones, to fix a similar missing grill. It was expensive, but I've got a few spares out of the purchase for my fleet of 66s (if sadly not a suitable grill for you). I've not seen anything that looks similar, so hopefully Hattons can help.

Having seen some of the Marklin locomotives with their automated uncoupling ability, something like an electromagnet would be great. It would also stop the train leaping towards the loco when coupling if you could switch the electromagnet off until the loco was up against the train. Saying that, I love the ease of taking stock on and off the track with magnetic couplings compared to the hassles of tension lock couplings. And the close coupling which it can offer makes a big difference too.

My ScotRail DCC sound fitted model also has a distinct rattle from the lead car when running. Turning on the DCC sound hides it, but it seems like there may be some truth to the statement that 'they are all like that'.

I was glad to see the 2 and 4 track gantries promised. They seem very common through stations.

Hi Chris, The plate does show it as Crewe built.

Hi @Tomathee, the factory fitted sound is pretty nice, but I'd say that the YouChoos sound project sounds a little richer. However, it is a pretty small speaker as standard and there isn't a lot of space to upgrade it. It may be your main constraint on sound quality. I found fitting a LaisDCC stay-alive as per Hornby Magazine to be useful if you have any dead frog points - their guide is also helpful in getting into the loco if you want to fit sound. It is a little cheaper buying it already sound fitted. It has a flickering firebox linked to the sound project from the factory when DCC Sound fitted. I'd presume that other sound projects also support that.

Thanks very much @APT Fan.

@Jenny Emily Thank you very much for checking.

Do you have any recommendations on a particular type/brand which you've found to work well in 00 at all please @APT Fan?

Do they have any provision on the PCB to attach a stay alive please @Jenny Emily? The Bachmann J72 has this and it is really handy on a short wheelbase loco.

As an ex-N gauge modeller I always longed to model in 00 for the wider range of models, more substantial size and the detail of the stock. Holding a Hattons 66 or Accurascale Deltic still blows me away with the detail and solidity of the things. And since I'm not getting any younger, scratch building of scenic buildings and locomotive maintenance are much easier. If TT had been available might I have been tempted to switch to it instead? Not in 1:120 as I feel that the size is too close to N. And N has a much wider range to choose from. For those who do jump to TT, I hope that it proves to be a success - but I'm not sure that Hornby's 'railroad' level of modelling would do it for me.

After a number of bad experiences with Hornby B1s I had pretty much given up on them. But positive mentions of the 9F meant that, rather than wait for the next Bachmann shipment, I took the plunge. And I'm very glad I did - it is a lovely model indeed. Well put together and runs smoothly. My 92194 is fitted with one of Locoman's D&H sound chips and it sounds magnificent. The packaging was superb too - which is a much needed improvement. I'll need to keep a more open mind on Hornby again now.

But some of them have very good boxes... 😉

Sorry, I should have explained that it is the side grille cover at the exhaust (no.1) end that I'm looking for. Probably a bit trickier. I bit the bullet and found a donor which has the plus point of the same paint finish. Will keep the rest of it as a spares source for our other Class 66s. But not one at £152!

Having picked up a Freightliner liveried 66 which now runs beautifully after some minor fettling, does anyone have any suggestions for what might work to replace a missing grille?

I'm afraid that you are. Assuming that your decoder has solder pads for the speaker. Otherwise it is even tinier pads next to the pins. There are quite a few solder pads on the Hornby PCB but none of them are definitely labelled as being for a speaker.

I did have some issues with shorting initially - but only at certain points on the track. I had moved the tender closer and it seemed to cause some issues. Moving it back to its more distant coupling position cured it. It sounds like your issue is more general than that though. 😔

@JohnC thanks for the really useful guide - you couldn't point me towards these 3D prints could you please?

@Marcoblanco I do hear the brake squeal when stopping using the F2 brake function. But not otherwise that I've noticed so far.

I'm very pleased with the appearance of 37 422 in EWS Red & Gold. The groaning noise when it moves is less endearing though. Will need to check that it has some lubrication from the factory.

Baa! But to the point - I think what Accurascale offer is better at the cost of 'free'. The credits are very generous and save you money while you will pay full retail price through the Bachmann Collector's Club. You don't get a regular magazine, but the guys at Accurascale are constantly available via RMWeb.