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railtec-models

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  1. That shot of 4820 is perhaps quite an unforgiving photo because of the differences in how they're made. It's interesting to see how varyingly these 3d plates photograph. I've even personally found it quite difficult to photograph them such that they look the same in a photo as they appear to the naked eye. Because of the way they're made, I've often found the light bounces off them on the lens in a rather displeasing way and consequently they tend to look brighter than they really are. It's not uncommon for people to stop by the Railtec stand at Warley, see the demo board and then say - "I hadn't thought much of them when I'd seen them on the web but in the flesh they look good. You've even got the mounting bolts in there!" James Wells has taken probably the closest photo I've seen yet as to what the Railtec 3d plates look like to the eye:
  2. Hi Andy, it looks like you went for the sheet of just plain white alpha-nums (which some people use for some projects) rather than either: - the stock item sheet of the reverse-printed alpha-nums with accompanying semi-translucent black backing, or - the custom-made option where you get ready-made headcodes (either printed face-on or in reverse - your choice) with the realistic black / dark grey backing that can be applied in one easy hit. They let the light through perfectly on the alpha-nums whilst the interlocking black verticals between the blinds do not, giving the desired effect like this: I would imagine a clear translucent film may allow the light to shine through across the entire thing? If memory serves I tried it back in the early days but I wasn't convinced with the effect, hence I went for the above.
  3. I think the Customs wait you just had was the longest I've heard about. I've had some folks in the likes of Canada and Aus and elsewhere in the EU have the transfers in hand within 5 days. Just depends I suppose. As for steam loco plates, I've already done a few (unadvertised) of the oblong variety. If I know the dimensions and assuming they're of a straight-forward text, i.e. no fancy embellishments, then they're as easy as diesel loco plates. I do have the Nameplates of the Big Four book which specifies a lot of dimensions though, so that's helpful. But when it comes to the curved variety, then yeah, the different radii of splashers causes an absolute headache. I have done the odd one or two curved plates before (for Irish steamers, randomly), but I'll perhaps look to begin with the oblong type.
  4. I'm constantly tweaking the process behind the 3d plates (and in my opinion they look quite different in the flesh than in photos). They're now on version 12 and have come a very long way since they were first introduced. If memory serves I think the process moved to its 12 iteration about 3 months ago. Typical turn-around time is a few days, sometimes even next day (can't say the same for Customs in every territory though!)
  5. Just to update this tangent, I mentioned that I would run some tests for nuts and bolts. I've made a first test, photo below, which I think shows some promise (it was taken on a phone so excuse some areas of the image being out of focus). Using a magnifying glass for the majority, all but the final element on the very far right are distinguishable enough in my opinion from rivets. Even with magnification on the very last element, there just isn't enough of a distinction between a hex bolt with a "knob" and a rivet, but that last one is only 0.4mm diam across the flats and the knob is a mere 0.29mm diam. It really is microscopic and the laptop keyboard is shown for context. Element M is 0.48mm across the flats on the hex bolt, so anything that diam and above I think are worthwhile. I've Googled to some extent to see if I can get the correct terminology for these, and I'm still little the wiser. I understand the bolt (male) is threaded into the nut (female), but is there a better description for these other than "nuts and bolts"? Also: - I'll be releasing these both as hex bolts and square bolts; - These could be made such that the orientation of the nuts(?!) is different, but would that be more commonplace than all uniform? On a related note the catalog of 3d rivets has just been galvanised with another 135 new items in the shape of catalogs for 2mm, HO, 1:35 and 1:16 scales ( @Gopher you can maybe see where I'm going with this). https://www.railtec-models.com/rivets/ Disclaimer: I know there are a large number of people waiting on other projects to be progressed / receive a response on. Things do move in tandem as I typically have multiple projects on-the-go in parallel.
  6. @The Fatadder hopefully you received the email notification to say they went out on Friday?
  7. My apologies @adds-trains I hadn't seen your msg. It's an eye catching van and I must admit, one I hadn't seen before. Which, potentially leads me to believe that it could have been a one or two-off (and as soon as I say that somebody will chime in with photos of others no doubt!) In which case, as others have helpfully illustrated, the reality is that the amount of research that is often needed for literally one or two vehicles is such that (a) unless somebody is willing to pay accordingly and (b) whoever you ask has not just the resource to do it but do it properly, then it may just not be viable. It may be small scale model railways or "toy trains", but the reality is that it still needs somebody both with intimate knowledge of railway insignia who also happens to be a graphic designer, and with the professional kit to be able to make a worthy job of it - and that all takes time of one or more people who may have a specialist set of skills and need for time spent to be accountable. How much for example would it cost to approach a graphic design agency for a similar request (and that wouldn't even get you the print?) That isn't to put you off or to appear unhelpful, simply to give some context as to why some projects, whilst technically do-able, may not be realistically viable. That said, for these types of request where just a photo is given which doesn't show much of the detail that would need designing, immediate questions would be: - Is it a one-off; - Full list of markings on it; - Exact dimensions of all of those markings. I get a lot of "oh it's about 10mm", which I have to push back on because (a) Illustrator doesn't do "about" and (b) if something is made "about 10mm" then you can guarantee an email a few days later to say "it's too large, it won't fit, it needs to be no more than 7mm so you'll need to re-do it". - Close-up images of markings where possible so a graphic designer knows what to design; - If not a one-off, did the markings vary between similar vehicles? (In the case of freight vehicles, almost certainly). When I ask people for the above, much of the time, I never hear anything back. Experience has taught me that it's because people are often unwilling to put in the time to do the research (I've even seen people ask on FB the dimensions of a model they need transfers for when they even have the model in hand themselves...), or ultimately are not too fussed and choose another livery. As you might appreciate, working through the above can often take hours out of your day scouring the web and books. If somebody is able to research their chosen specific area of interest and present all of the above then a graphic designer potentially has something useful to work from and be able to do something, but even then it will depend on complexity. Or, if you already have the artwork (very different to a photo) which is ready-sized then that usually makes it more viable still. The key thing to remember is that there is often a very long way to go from seeing a 3/4 angle photo and receiving a tangible product that has been exquisitely designed with crisp, vibrant print.
  8. The decal rivets are raised / 3d, like the real things. Once I know exactly what head diam and distance between centres (or I can just as easily work with distance between bolts), then I can make something. And yes - at this scale, I can make hexagonal bolts no problem. I've already successfully tested them in 7mm but just haven't had the chance to market them yet. Is someone able to confirm exactly what's needed?
  9. Hi Clive, doesn't have to be. What do you need?
  10. Archers have ceased so I picked up the baton and introduced a range of ~120 packs: https://www.railtec-models.com/rivets/ Feedback from magazines and modellers of railway, aviation and military has been extremely encouraging, so they're here to stay. In fact I'm working on more.
  11. As I had good detail shots of each wagon (and there are only 4 of them afaik) I decided to make the markings exactly as per each specific vehicle, incl the different shades of black patches and variations in ton/tare weights on the panels. One of those numerous topics that I originally thought may take a half hour based the original request for generic markings, but in reality ended up taking probably half a day to mimic the real things. At least it's done now and hopefully it may be of interest to others too. And is that an Emma Bridgewater plate? My wife's obsessed!
  12. Life's too short! And it's 2023. As it happens this morning I'm also developing more of the Alphaline / Wales packs that you've asked for. That is, in between noshing French pastry (no, that's not a euphemism for anything else), taking delivery of random plywood and looking online for a 21" petrol mower with roller. Who says men can't multi task.
  13. I don't disagree, but we also have to be realistic: there are only a handful of people mad enough to do what I do, the technology capable of achieving such finely intricate results and the "enthusiasm" to want to keep pushing boundaries (have we had a choice of 120+ homegrown packs of rivets readily available prior to a few weeks ago or even hexagonal bolts? Maybe the latter, I don't know). Would modellers rather have what could potentially be hours of resource taken up in perfecting something that isn't even visible to the naked eye, or that finite specialist resource spent on R&Ding topics where there are large gaps? Fruit Ds, complete loco packs for GWR, LMS & LNER steam locos, new packs for rafts of engeering wagons with realistic looking data panels and maintenance charts are just 3 very long outstanding topics off the top of me barnet. Don't get me wrong - I enjoy a challenge and I'm curious to give the above a test and I will, and who knows, it could turn out to be a quick win, but taking a broader view if the wider community were to decide how I spend half a day, I suspect I know what the answer would be.
  14. Ah! Hm, honestly, even for some of the larger head diams in 4mm, whilst they would technically be there, I'm not sure they'd even be visible to the naked eye. Ditto some of the smaller head diams in 7mm, and without testing it's an unknown whether they'd even be noticeable in some of the larger head diams in 7mm. If you have an image which shows a good close-up of specifically what you have in mind then feel free to share.
  15. Maybe I misunderstood. If you mean hexagonal shapes, then yes. I've recently successfully tested hexagonal examples although I haven't yet had the time to market them. There's no reason why I can't/won't duplicate the entire rivet catalog for hexagonal nuts, although you really would have to reach for the magnifying glass to see the difference when it comes to some of the very small head diameters. The bit I wasn't clear on in ICH's post was whether the request was for a rivet or nut arrangement such as: o o o o o o o (hopefully the formatting of the above has remained though to be fair the WYSIWYG editor seems to behave very well) i.e. with a single one out of alignment to the remainder, in which case see above.
  16. Thought I'd just chime in whilst the tea is brewing - if you needed either of those symbols as vector, then Latin symbols I can do no problem (reading the likes of Virgil and Cicero at Latin A level didn't go to waste even if it was a perfect cure for insomnia), and the upsilon / horse shoe symbol is of high enough res here that I can convert it to vector in less time that it takes me to write this sentence. Just to put that out there lest it potentially prevent a project unfolding as you would like, at least where the dark arts of transfer making are concerned. Right, off to fish for that soggy tea bag.
  17. If you're able to present the schematic over PM in the same way as Chris did with the previous one, it makes "can you do" type requests so much easier as a lot of the ground work is already done. It may not mean I get to it any quicker (depends if there are other similar topics on-the-go) but once I do, it will probably fly out pretty quickly.
  18. If I've understood correctly and assuming that this would be a bespoke design to suit a very specific vehicle type and size, as opposed to a pattern that was common (and that many people would want), then whlist technically do-able, I'm not sure that it would be viable. BUT, if you just needed 1 rivet that was out of alignment in each corner of the wagon, then personally I would just cut off one rivet from the sheet and plonk it where it needed to be. The sheets give you that versatility: rows and rows of perfectly sized and spaced rivets, or the option to chop odd ones off and put them where you need to.
  19. I've applied them to both painted and unpainted on multiple substrates (although I didn't bother with wood) without issue. Obviously though the smoother the surface the better the adhesion. I've sold quite a number of these now and haven't had anything but great feedback. And it certainly saves people the mind boggling hassle of trying to apply individual rivets!
  20. They're applied in exactly the same way as waterslide transfers, and the concept there hasn't changed much in decades. Cut out the desired length, soak in tap water for not very long and slide onto the model. Because they're waterslide, you get ample wiggle room to manoeuvre them how you need on the model before they dry and set.
  21. @airnimal I can make the rivets as small as you like. If none of the existing offerings hit the mark then PM me with required head diam and spacing between centres. https://www.railtec-transfers.com/rivets/
  22. Yeah it seemed to be coughing up a fur ball for ~20 mins on/off although it seems zippy again now. Those errors you see are it trying to connect to the db. I think the guys bounced the server and it's all good. Almost in time for the footie having finished.
  23. That's a belting result. As you say - just goes to show, with the right preparation, the results that can be achieved.
  24. Hi Alistair, are these any help? https://www.railtec-transfers.com/rivets/ Obviously they're not on pre-determined backing plates as everyone's needs will differ in terms of the size of plate that's needed, but they're hugely versatile and can be applied to any size plate you like. What I haven't yet publicised is that I've since successfully tested 3d bolts, i.e. hexagonal, although to be honest unless you reached for a microscope it's not until you get to around 7mm scale ~1.5" head diameter before you can see much difference between a rounded rivet head and a hexagonal bolt head! These are super easy to make and made right here in the thriving metropolis of Ashbourne, Middle Earth. They normally get dispatched in < 24hrs, sometimes even same day.
  25. Life's too short to be lining up individual numbers in an attempt to get them straight, evenly spaced (unless the original had otherwise distinctive spacing) and the end result looking right to the eye. If it's 4mm scale, then the link below should have what you need: https://www.railtec-models.com/catalog.php?type=5&gauge=4mm&theme=33 All those customisable offerings are made such that the loco number is a one piece transfer that can be applied in one easy hit. Particularly in the case of diesel locos then I have most of them on file now so the spacing is made as per the real things so that your models look real in that regard. The concept of waterslide transfers hasn't changed that much in decades, even if the technology behind them has. Essentially, loosely cut around the transfer, soak in water for a few seconds (I use plain Derbyshire tap water), and then slide it onto the model. You do get a spare too, just in case. Hope this helps, and once you've done one, you might get a taste for it and get the confidence to do several more. It can be a slippery slope!
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