idd15

Correct, but it is convention (indeed regulation) to always switch the source. This is always painfully learnt when some dork has switched the return on a mains circuit..... No I was not the dork in question and yes it did hurt, and yes I apologise now if I quoted the wiring regs incorrectly. Cheers idd

If space is tight perhaps a battery/rx wagon might work? As always there are pros and cons to any approach, just a thought... Cheers Idd

No Cheers idd

Do you really need a switch? I have been flying single lipo RC models for years and have never used a switch. Plug in the lipo and fly. If the current draw of the DT receiver is low when not operating I don’t think you will need a switch. For charging I would never charge a lipo battery in a model. Though I have never seen, nor experienced a charging problem with 1S batteries in many years I still do not think it is worth the risk. My preference is always battery out of the model and preferably charge outdoors. Best regards idd

Nor mine! But you certainly could not accuse Tesla of playing safe, no focus group thinking here. Idd

Timing is everything! Glad it’s sorted for you. idd

You will need to put the RX in bind mode first, then turn on the Tx in bind mode. Looking at the DT site it suggests turning on the Rx first and leaving it for 20 secs, then it should go automatically into bind mode. When binding it also best not to have the Tx too close as this can swamp the Rx and hinder the bind process. This may not be a problem for DT gear but the original Spektrum DSM2 receivers were prone to this. HTH idd

My 2019 40Kw Leaf still does have the energy use screen and shows exactly what you describe when the climate control is turned on. The heat pump/heater combo works well, the cabin is warm very quickly. idd

When comparing the cost of small EV’s against small ICE it is also the case you are are getting a smooth, very quiet, fully automatic, and probably better performing vehicle. Not a rasping 3 cylinder vibrator where you are constantly stirring the gears in traffic. Electric propulsion has a lot to offer smaller cars. Going from my Leaf to the “bosses” Micra is always a bit hard on the system! You never know there may be an ehh UP in our future! idd PS To be fair and add a bit of balance the daughters i10 is a very refined little car, but it still has one of those gear lever thingy’s!

Great last episode with Ronald the Runaway Rhino bringing some much needed personality to a little battery loco! Absolutely bonkers British telly at its best, Sunday night is going to be a little bit dull from now on..... Well done all who took part.

Really enjoyed it and again well done to all on here who took part. Looking forward to next week. Memo to self, must start saving now for a Roundhouse loco! idd

Interesting developments in battery powered trains. Hope the link works! I subscribe to Fully Charged because I'm interested in electric car developments, but they cover many other electrical/renewable topics as well. Also like me Robert doesn't like the Daily Wail either!

I think your on the right lines, more probably a converted Dakota C47. Quite long broad wings outboard of the engine nacelles with rounded tips. HS748 has less chord and more squared off tips. Horrible aeroplane to fly in IMHO. Remember sitting in the Captains seat of a C47 in the early 70's while an engine was ground tested at Leavesden aerodrome. Very exciting for a nine year old air mad youf! idd

Hi " 5. Digital servos will often have stronger gearing made from metal or carbon fibre with stronger linkages and better bearings reflecting that they can exert more force to move things, and are therefore often quieter and smoother operating as well as being more robust." I have flown RC models for about 40 years and as a club/sport flyer never felt the need for digital servos. But there again I don't fly 3D helicopters, turbine powered jets or 100cc petrol powered aerobatic jobs. It's "horses for courses" really IMHO. However, I would say that not all digital servos are quiet in operation, some do "squeal" even when stationary. Analogue servos can also buzz when in position and I have found with my Megapoints controller that certain brands are more likely to buzz than others. For example my favourite brand of servos Hitec do, whereas my Spektrum S75's are silent. I've just bought some of the HK servos Dave recommends to try so it will be interesting to hear how quiet they are, It is very puzzling that the Peco unit will not drive the HK units. There is no electrical difference as to how the two types of servo are driven from the controller. Check the power supply to the controller is "man" enough for the job in hand. The starting current of a servo can be surprisingly high and may be affecting operation of the controller. If this proves to be the case you can feed the servos with their own independent power supply and just use the ground and signal wires from the controller to the servo. WARNING! If you do this DO NOT connect the controller and and servo power leads together because that will let the magic smoke out!!!! A servo tester is a very useful tool for helping to set up and diagnose servo problems. You can also get in line current meters for checking servos and linkages. Hobbyking do both of these devices for quite reasonable prices. HTH idd

OK peeps I have a question for you. I need some handrails for the turntable deck, any ideas where I might get some? Searched around the stalls at Telford but couldn't find anything to suit. MTIA idd

Well I must apologise for not getting much done on my CB challenge but having started a new job (almost a new career!), levelling part of the garden for a new garden railway in 2018 (yay!), and taking time out to visit the IPMS show at Telford (stunning levels of modelling!), there has not been a lot of free time. But we have made a bit of progress and I'm cutting and laying track at the moment. The turntable armature is effectively done and now needs cladding with thin card to finish it off. I used hard balsa as the core and bushed the pivot hole with some ali tube. I also had the bright idea (for me!) of using a 3mm nut on the top surface so that it effectively screws into place and height adjustment is simply a question of adding or removing a turn or two. It also has the added benefit that it won't fall off when I have senior moment when moving the diorama about! I've also made a decision that the roundhouse is going to be just two stalls. Few reasons not least of which is that it did seem a bit boring: "wots yours then?" you may ask. "a shed, a second shed, and err a third shed" So the cunning plan at the moment is to use the third road for an ash pit and a water crane to add a bit more visual interest. Keep bimbling on! (KBO!) idd

Next step I think is to build the turntable as it provides the "focal point" for the three sidings (or should they be called roads?) and it will help getting the alignment right. I've also been having second thoughts about the shed and want a bit more time to think it through. Strange how a diorama just eight inches square can absorb so much thinking time! Cheers idd

Bit of progress this past week on Quarter Round and we now have a baseboard with a well for the turntable (sector plate) and a 3mm bolt for the pivot. I decided to make cut outs in the 6mm ply and foam board sandwich now as I suspect I might want to add lights and other gubbins later in the build. Well you know how these things just evolve! I did a little experiment and found that my Dremel fretsaw can cut a laminated foam board sandwich very cleanly so that made cutting out the well a doddle. Of course a little looksee to finish!

Nah only three speeds, bonkers, "I've lost it", and thud! idd

Had reason to visit Ikea at Leeds yesterday and outside the customer returns area was a large stack of wood they were giving away for FREE! Of course it was mostly melamine coated chipboard (anyone for shelves?) but there was other useful stuff in there as well such as thin MDF for back scenes etc. This is apparently all part of their waste re-cycling strategy so I presume it is being done at other stores as well. HTH idd

Could not agree more. The horse and handler in particular look very good, where are they from? Having seen this I think I need to give some serious thought about figures on my own entry. Thx idd

Peter and Jeff thanks for your comments and encouragement. I think your quite right that this little project could have a very useful life after the CBC has ended, even more so if I can make the doors operational! I do remember building the Airfix engine shed as a kid and it had doors that opened, but I was planning to use a download and print card kit to keep costs down. Mind you with a bit of thin brass strip and wire I might be able to knock up some pin hinges. Watch this space! Cheers Ian

You could try ordinary household Dettol. I was advised to use this by my brother in law who is a very good plastic modeller and a dab hand with an airbrush. He uses Dettol to strip paint off parts which do not meet his high standards and he sprays mostly enamels. We had a stainless steel sink which had become very stained and messed up with emulsion and acrylic paints due to a lot of decorating and college artwork going on at the same time! Some Dettol and elbow grease and the sink was almost as good as new. Might be worth checking on some of the plastic modelling forums to see what people advise there. Cheers idd

Well it's head above the parapet time as this will be my first attempt of doing a little bit on this forum! Without doubt my future dream layout will have a roundhouse to stable a humungous collection of eclectic locomotives, and of course one of those whizzy dcc controlled turntables to get them onto the four track mainline. Anyway back in reality I've been doing a bit of research and came across again Paul Lunn's design for a micro St Blazey in his excellent book on micro layouts. I've always fancied having a go at this as a stepping stone towards the aforementioned "layout of a lifetime". But even as a micro its more than twice the size of a cake box! It then occurred to me as we are supposed to be building a diorama you don't have to have the whole turntable, and while we are at it what if the shed itself is low relief? A little bit of prototype planning and playing with my smaller loco's showed that this might actually work! So that's the idea. Now I just have to build it!

Oops should have put the "no connection to the vendor just a satisfied customer" caveat in that post!!!! According to the latest weekly vendor email there is now an orderly queue forming for these. How very British! Pip pip! idd