TheEngineShed

It appears that way on the Rails website too. No contrast or much colour on the south side of the crest. An easy fix mind you, a lot easier than some of the other issues. Fingers crossed that mine is in the air, card charged a week ago. All things considered, these look wonderful. https://railsofsheffield.com/products/sonic-models-s4101-07-robinson-a5-gcr-class-9n-4-6-2-tank-locomotive-br-black-early-emblem-no-69804

Which length of Hunt couplings did you use?

From the prototype history "All were delivered in blue/grey and the second half of the build were the first to wear the famous Inter-City branding from new." All the models offered are branded Intercity. Would it be appropriate to remove the Intercity branding from some, or do the models all represent the second half of the build?

Personally, I'd just snip a mm or so off the rod end and let it be. If you want it centered, I'd use a small block against the inside of the wheel to push the rod to the correct position. Might even use two blocks, with one on the center wheel. Then use a soldering iron to gently heat the rod at the point where it attaches off to the left, which is out of the photo.

Thanks everyone for the tips, but unfortunately it is going to have to go back. It was run in for an hour, and I can't find the fault. Silky smooth in reverse and creeps along quite nicely on DC, but that tight spot isn't going away in the forward direction. In the forward direction it catches once per revolution and stops at slower speeds. At faster speeds there is an audible click as the motor shaft goes up hard against the bearings. I put about four hours into inspecting it and could find nothing amiss. It is a wonderful model, well engineered, but a fault came with my copy.

I has been run about 10 minutes in each direction now on the rolling road. I thought about giving it a good thrash in the forward direction longer, but thought I'd investigate, especially after seeing it operate with the body off.

I suspected the worm wasn't centered on the gear, but is seems to be ok visually. I can't detect a tight spot when I rotate the flywheel by hand...

So I finally had an opportunity to unbox my Kerr Stuart today and it runs fine in reverse. Definitely a problem going forward though, check out how the flywheel bucks. Any ideas what the problem could be? I'm not in the UK so returning it would not be my first choice.

Seems like there ought to be a simple circuit that could be made, a small cap and a resistor for DCC operation. DCC track power being constant, you could size the resistor for the appropriate level of DIM, and the cap would function as a stay alive. The lights would be on all the time, but that would be secondary to DIM lights. Anyone electrical minded that has any thoughts along these lines?

It's usually the start of the bitter cold time of the year. And my wife intercepts my packages from the UK and insists on wrapping them to put under the tree... 😉

Kernow still has some pristine EFE Hymeks, at a very competitive price (£106.95) . I don't think this latest run is worth the extra cash... https://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/p/43588/E84001-EFE-Rail-Hymek-Diesel-Locomotive-number-D7005-in-BR-Green https://www.kernowmodelrailcentre.com/p/43590/E84003-EFE-Rail-Hymek-Diesel-Locomotive-number-7016-in-BR-Blue

Amatuerish and they forgot to weather the bogies and tanks. Discount bin locos, me thinks.

Five of the six LNWR coaches I ordered were added to my trunk yesterday. Minus the full brake, I'm hoping that item gets added, otherwise Hattons either oversold or were shorted on that item because they accepted my pre-order. Airlines oversell the seats on flights, assuming a percentage will miss the flight. As I said, I'm hoping...

I wondered, I didn't see any photos from the show. I was going to post a query but got busy and didn't have the time to find this topic. Just checked Hattons, they are still saying October and December 2022.

I believe the answer to #1 is here: https://api.parliament.uk/historic-hansard/commons/1985/may/16/railway-workshops-job-losses

One of the ex Oxfordshire Ironstone Company girls with a Flamingo! This might be Betty? Harlaxton Quarries, July 1973

I believe this answers the question of whether pre BR companies had end of maintenance markers... A GNR MAINTENANCE ENDS sleeper plaque photo for sale is linked below: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192932819855

So I was playing with my 6 chaldron wagons today, and when a pair were pulled apart, the magnet came out of one of the coupling housings. A real pain to put back in with my fat fingers! I secured it in place with a dab of superglue. The job would have been much easier if I had non-magnetic tweezers. I have a lot of tweezers, locking ones too, but all are ferrous. A real exercise in frustration there, that magnet wanted to go everywhere except back in the coupling housing... So I'm going to source some non-magnetic tweezers for the next time this happens. I'm tempted to apply a bit of superglue to the magnets on the rest of my rake. Or maybe black paint?

Would it be possible to include the MU cables and receptacles on the nose, in the parts baggy for D423? That way, they could be added be the buyer.

A transparency in my collection. Taken by a friend's dad, he was working with Boeing at the time... Boeing 707s Renton WA Dec 1965 by Pete Piszczek, on Flickr

Indeed, but it is an easy fix on the GWR brake third. Considering how nice they are, I am not complaining. It is not like the lighting units are overheating and damaging the roof...

Good catch! I have the other numbered GWR 6-wheel brake third and it is the same, oil lamps are not centered over two of the passenger compartments...

When I spoke to him on the phone last year, Jim told me he thought it was on auto-renew, but it didn't work.

If it is the end of October, it is past time for Jim to renew... If you read back towards the front of this topic, his internet hosting service contract ends in September. This has happened before... https://www.rmweb.co.uk/topic/172774-modelmasters/?do=findComment&comment=4623843

Had a good scrub with a glass fiber pen, no luck with enhancing the internals. The underlying shell is a light grey, so there are limitations.