55020

Excellent, thanks. Just wanted to check we were on the same page before I potentially toasted everything! This is what I now get. Mmmmmm!

That makes sense, but this warning makes me want to come back and check

Thanks for persisting with your comments Iain, much appreciated. I have removed all other USB inputs for the check. I also remove track input to the DR5088RC, but at this stage that feels a bit wrong. I did this because of a number of warnings in the manual about connecting USB and track power at the same time. Was I correct to remove track power? With track power removed and no other USB feeds, this is what the test shows: It seems a bit odd because all feedback blocks are showing as occupied, but only 1 is actually connected. Bottom line is that no loco details are shown, but as no Railcom signals are being asked for ( no track power) perhaps that shouldn't be a surprise? Steve

I've tried enabling and disabling vehicles, it didn't alter the outcome. My settings currently show this: Note I don't get the sub-menu beneath "Use new functions". What does the Start/End actually refer to? The DR5088RC has been set up to simply use address 1 for the section I'm testing, so nothing fancy. I did try and force a new address through direct USB programming just in case that was the issue, but again the result was the same. I've also tried disconnecting the L.Net convertor from ECoS, but again no change. Steve

Hi Doug, That's my backup plan. Although Iain is probably the most likely to respond over there as well Steve

Hi Iain, Where to start! The decoder and ECoS are set up for Railcom (ECoS, as it needs to generate the Railcom cutout). I have tried all three iTrain options for Railcom report and both options in sense direction (when offered). When you say "checked the box to use Loconet", do you mean like this: Although I do wonder if Railcom might be a bit of a distraction, as I don't even get basic detection indications via the switchboard. This makes me wonder if it's the switchboard setup that I've gotten wrong? As something of an aside, I do get basic (non-Railcom) occupancy indications on my ECoS from the DR5088RC via the L-Net converter, so the issue seems to be between the Locobuffer and iTrain. Thanks, Steve

As my trip to the States is extremely unlikely to happen, I went ahead and purchased a Locobuffer USB adapter and have been trying to get things to work. Much frustration has ensued, as I'm the kind of guy that wants to find solutions in the manuals to better my understanding. Well that has failed, so here I am reaching out for some help. As described in earlier posts I have block detection set up and am trying to use a DR5088RC unit to communicate Railcom feedback information to a PC running iTrain via the Locobuffer USB adapter. Loco control is via an ECoS. In iTrain I have set up Locobuffer as a feedback interface and iTrain connects as expected. ECoS has been set up as the Loco and Accessory controller, with feedback deselected. ECoS connects as expected. I have also set up a test piece of track in the iTrain switchboard that has a "detector" track segment and associated this segment with the Locobuffer and appropriate detector address. If I have a loco in the detector section and I check the Feedback Monitor under the View menu, it shows that the section is occupied. However the switchboard indication does not show an occupied section. I'm obviously doing something wrong but have run out of options. Another strange behaviour is that if I drive the loco out of this section onto a point that has no detection, then iTrain "bongs" three times and the Locobuffer is disconnected. Any help or suggestions very gratefully received! Steve

Norm, The ESU ECoSDetectors will provide Railcom ID info through the 4 Railcom ports. But as you highlight, it is only through 4 of the 16 ports. I couldn't get ECoS to recognise any Railcom info through the L.Net adapter, no matter how I set up the DR5088RC. So I've decided to try a different route, which is feed the Railcom/Loconet info through a Loconet to PC adapter (RR-CirKits LocoBuffer USB) into a PC running iTrain. Having Railcom info in iTrain was always the aim, but using ECoS for train control. It appears that iTrain will allow me to separate out the detection element, so that I can use both ECoS and the USB interface as inputs. A side beneft is that I'll still get basic block detection in the ECoS as well. So this way I get all the info I need, where I need it, but have the cost benefits of using DR5088RC providing 16 Railcom blocks versus the ECoS Detector which only gives me 4 Railcom blocks. Having said all that I haven't tried this arrangement yet. I am waiting so that I can purchase the USB adapter in the States next month. This will save me quite a bit compared with purchasing the unit from a UK supplier. Steve

Ahh, that's a shame that it didn't work out. However it's very easy to resize an stl file. If you let me know how long you'd like the model to be I can do that for you and send you the revised file. Does your friend have a resin (SLA) printer, as this type of printer will give you the smoothest surface with great definition? Steve

I use both my Samsung phone and a Fiio MP3 player. I was recently shocked at the difference in quality when playing back the same track through each device over a decent speaker, using a wired connection. So the only thing I can add is that I wouldn't rely on a mobile phone to give you any sort of decent fidelity. A friend of mine really likes his Sony Walkman A series player. It is not too expensive, but produces quality output.

So you want to uncouple Kadees remotely? Not sure about the electromagnetic uncouplers? I bought some of these, but haven't fitted them yet. They do seem to get some good reviews over the pond, where they are obviously used a lot. https://railsofsheffield.com/products/33922/rapido-trains-inc-320001-ho-scale-railcrew-on-off-remote-uncoupler Steve

I agree with Iain, they are a solid product that also has very good support. The guys in DCC Concepts are extremely responsive and helpful. I wouldn't hesitate at recommending them. Steve

WOW! That's a very impressive piece of miniature engineering. Thanks for the heads up regarding the YouTube channel, I've just subscribed and will now spend some time watching and learning. A big thank you for the offer to assist if I get stuck, which hopefully you won't regret over time Steve

What program are you using for your designs? So far I'm getting used to Fusion360, but I know there are lots of other options out there. Just like you, I've had pretty good success printing directly onto the build plate. Cheers, Steve

Mark, the spare LCD screens are now showing "in stock" on Amazon. Their availability is pretty patchy, so might be worth you grabbing one? https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELEGOO-Resolution-Protection-LS055R1SX04-Compatible/dp/B07X4CCQC1 Steve

I think it best to view settings as something of an art rather than a precise science. I have seen so many suggestions on various forums and YouTube regarding settings. What I've tried to do is not change too much at one time, so that if things seem to get worse then I can undo the culprit. One piece of advice that seemed to make sense was to slow the speed of the build plate being raised between layers. The difference in overall build time is small, but so far it seems to have had a positive impact. As monkeysarefun has stated, my next consideration would be to increase the exposure time of the base layers, then increase the number of layers. However one step at a time Here's my current settings, which seem to work OK for Elegoo grey ABS-like resin.

I agree that I will always try and print directly on the build plate for items that are symmetrical and don't have a lot of overhang. There's a risk of a small amount of "elephants foot" for square bases, but with my printer this doesn't seem to happen. However I did recalibrate my Z-axis zero. https://www.elegoomars.com/forum/showthread.php?tid=218 General advice on generating supports is not to use Chitubox, but to use PrusaSlicer (free download) auto support feature, then export this as an "stl with supports" into Chitubox for slicing and printing on the Mars. I also found the attached file had some good generic advice, although it was written for the Photon. Newbie's_v1.3_3D_Resin_printing_Guide_(Handbook).pdf

These guys get really good reviews across the pond. They are pretty responsive to emails, so might be worth asking them for a quote including postage to the UK? https://railroadbackdrops.com/ Steve

I'd go along with that. If you have a RH turnout that is showing the wrong route; change it on the ECoS to a LH turnout, then mirror it, then rotate if required to the correct orientation. That should solve the problem without messing with wiring. Steve

The change should be possible within the decoder. Which decoder are you using? Switching the track wires will likely mess up your frog switching, assuming this is being done through the point motor.

Mark, if you enroll to the Elegoo Mars official facebook page they will send you a free FEP pack. Of course it would be better if they simply included it with the printer, but for some reason they've chosen not to. https://www.facebook.com/groups/elegoomars/ The LED screen is also considered a consumable, so getting a spare from Amazon when they become available is not a bad idea. I've no idea how long the screen lasts, but I figured it'd be better having one on the shelf waiting rather than having a prnter out of action for a while.

There's a free STL file on Thingiverse that might be of use. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:441027 Although you don't mention if you have access to a 3D printer? Steve

I've got a couple just like that The Mars is great, although I haven't used it that much yet. I designed and printed two sleeper spacing tools, which are really simple but worked first time. I just printed these directly on the build plate. Next will be some station canopy support columns.

There was me thinking I could easily 3D print something similar and refine the length to suit both individual stock and the curves on my layout.

The PSU supplied in North America is the same unit, but with a US plug and cord. It is very easy to change this. Bottom line is that you can use it in Europe as it is does accept 100-240V. My unit was bought in Canada, but the US version is the same.