stevel

This looks okay, the only reason I add strips on the buffer beams is to stop a slight curvature, I can't seem to stop otherwise. if there is a floor to the cattle wagon you my need to add supports to the floor. If there is no floor I would support it upside down, as the roof is easier to clean up afterwards. If you add a 10 degree tilt sideways, this would help alleviate suction as well, and would not require side supports.

The first recommendation I have, is to raise the print by 10mm off the print platform, as your supports are to close to the model. This also helps to warm up the resin, which aids in getting a cleaner print. The second Is to raise the temperature of the printer and resin, to 25C or higher. The third is to add sacrificial supports to the model, this takes out the initial mishappen edges, leaving very little to clean up. The angle to print at is dependent on the model, I would suggest the cattle wagon may need to be as steep as 60 degrees, to get the gaps to print straight. here is an example of my system, of supports and snap off supports.

It's always of interest to see how others are supporting their prints, and it look fantastic even at this early stage. I have my first GWR 7mm wagon printing right now, and will post it when it is cleaned up.

do you have any pics with supports still attached, this looks like it came out very clean for a first print.

If it is a resin print, I suspect they were over washed and or over cured, and as njee20 says many resins are very brittle. A quick tip for photographing small objects, take wider shot from further away, and then crop the pic to what you want.

Rather than using dope, you could try artists matte medium, it sets clear but stays somewhat flexible. Also great for doing static grass clumps, because of the flexibilty.

I don't think so, some of the other Engines on flea bay had the same thing. I could be wrong, though the axle centres are correct for this loco.

Well I just received this Bachmann pannier, from Ebay, the basis for a couple of saddle tank, 3d printed engines. They will be able to fit this chassis or the High level pannier chassis kit for EM or P4. It's got a cracked keeper plate, and doesn't run very well, which I knew when I bought it, but it works for my purposes.

What CAD program are you using, in Fusion 360 you import a drawing as a PNG, scale it, and then sketch using it as a template. Here is an example of a wagon in progress.

Gotcha

I can open the PDF but. how to open those Underlined in RED, which indicates the article has been processed and is available.

I took a look at this yesterday, but could not figure out how to open the articles, what am I missing.

If my memory serves right, they were 4 feet long, I can remember carrying some, very awkward. The bell was approx, 4" to 6" deep and a loose fit for bedding in with mortar. the diameter was actually 4" 6" 9" and 12" standard, plus or minus 1/2", it all depends on where they were made.

the standard pipe sizes before metrication, 4", 6", 9", 12", that is a load that would be fairly easy to draw and print, Hmmmm.

thought you might be interested in this link, to the cattle docks at Shirley. https://www.warwickshirerailways.com/gwr/gwrsh2951.htm

I've done the opposite, but when I first decide to model the Edwardian period, some 25 plus years ago, there was a lot more available for the period, But my other interest, the Ffestiniog is seriously tempting now with all the new additions in the last couple of years.

Gary I would be interested in selling prints through you for the UK, as the minimum postage from Canada is approx, 10GBP. Would like to know what type of resin are you using, as from my experience most are far to brittle to be handle without kid gloves. I have a dozen or more wagons, and a few coaches from the GWR Victorian, and Edwardian period, that I have test printed, and I'm currently working towards, a 1854 saddle tank body to fit on the Bachmann 8750 chassis. Stephen.

Is there anything in particular you are interested in, I have been thinking of drawing something in 7mm but not sure what to go for, not being familiar with what is not available for 0 gauge. now I have the mono X I can test print wagons.

I've heard Sunlu is pretty good too, but Siraya Tech is less expensive over this side of the pond, and has worked really well.

Just finished redrawing the Wood framed van, after looking at a print I had done some time ago, I wanted to make some minor changes, only to discover it was no longer in my saved files!!!!! Upside is it took about 85% less time to draw this time.

Phil, it depends on what resin you are using, for the Siraya Tech Mix that I use, I don't print with a raft, it makes it easier to remove the print. settings are 15 sec, for base layers, lift and retract are 120mm/min, 50 um, light off 0.5, exposure 1.6 sec, lift distance 1.6 mm. and I print only once the resin is very warm, between 20-30C. I have been thinking of selling prints but the shipping from Canada could put people off the idea.

Have been busy with more drawing and printing, and did my first 4 wagon print. The N3 has the latest version of breakaways, design because of issues with the earlier design, as can be seen on the Van and Siphn roof. They have proved to be easier to clean up as well. This Anycubic Mono X has proved to be faster and cleaner printer than the old Mono SE.

the reflection at this angle looks really good, coming together nicely.

looking forward to seeing this built, as this is one of those items I was thinking of designing in Fusion 360, and printing. I seem to remember seeing a drawing many years ago, but don't remember where it was. I suspect this is the construction method for Penryn cattle dock, but the only picture I can find, has only the ramp and base left.

I Have never seen this kit, is it a Baulk rail model, and as for the loss of so many things we took for granted 30 years ago! thats why I turned to 3d printing.