stevel

I use a sacrificial strip along straight edges, an idea borrowed from someone on this forum, and it has proved successful. these two prints show how the strip has warped but not the actual model and some of the supports have even broken away without affecting the print.

I thought I would have spare time once I retired, now I just work for my wife LOL.

some of my early prints, I did over 20 before I was happy, now its more like 5 or 6, one day we'll get it right first time, or not. I think the tarp supports may be helping to keep the print straight and flat, but that print looks really good to me.

thanks for the advise, I have not been specific enough with my Youtube searches so this should help.

Are these drawn in Blender, I have downloaded it but can't make head or tail of it. Fusion was a piece of cake up to this, or I'm missing something.

you are correct sir, a tricky little beggar to draw, and took few test prints and revisions to get right. Here are a couple more pics.

I have spent many an hour pouring over them, a very useful resource. So many lesser branches have had great books written about them, but not the Falmouth branch. Found some very interesting info on the web, but there are a lot of views, such as the cattle dock, the broad gauge coach body, etc I cannot find. The Britain from above is an interesting period picture, thanks. Stephen

Here is the next stage of the process, the printing. the left hand model is the first print, using Anycubic grey without the sacrificial ribs. The print has warped along the top edges quite a bit, and some of the supports have broken away causing other issues. The middle is the same resin with the ribs, but still has some warping issues. Th right hand side model is printed using the Siraya tech mix, and has come out very clean and crisp, with no top edge warping. All of these were printed in warmed enclosures, Both using factory settings. here are the second and third prints, with supports, note the warping of the rib support where the supports have pulled away. the third print with a light black primer base.

I have been surprised, at how little information available for the Falmouth branch, I have bought every railway book I can find that even mentions it with not much luck.

I thought it may of interest, to show some of the steps, to draw in Fusion 360, and then print a model wagon. The model chosen is of the GWR 021, 4 plank with grease axle boxes. the first stage with something that is symetrical, is to draw one quarter of the wagon. then the pre drawn components, in this case, the W-iron with the axle box and springs, are brought in and moved to the correct location. the next component to be added is the buffer body. Once all the details are in place it is time to mirror the model, to get the complete wagon model. first mirror get a half wagon, and the second mirror gets the complete wagon. At this stage the single side brake set up can be drawn and extruded. The final stage for me, is to add on the sacrificial supports, to ensure a clean edged print.

Don't know how I have missed this thread, love the period atmosphere you are creating, and will follow with interest.

fraid I don't have any of those

I have ordered few of the MJT 6w set up, should see them in a couple of weeks, with the 6 wheel coaches i am having no luck finding a drawing of the chassis, which shows placement of the gas cylinder etc. Do you have any suggestions where to look, as none of my books have been of use.

Thanks for your interest. I am hoping to build a wood workshop, which will have a loft above, with about 9m x 5m of space, with the intention of modelling Penryn, and Peranwell.

can you show a screen capture of the item that failed, from the slicer program, it may need to be at an angle to the plate. i have attached an example of a wagon print. I have found that temperature can make a huge difference, and keep my printers under the cardboard box they came in, with a 16w reptile heater underneath, this has almost eliminated failures. I also turn on the printer some 30 minutes before printing to allow everything to warm up. the only time you need to empty the vat is when something is stuck to the FEP, you can test this using the small plastic scraper, by gently stirring the resin across the Fep, you will feel if you hit stuck resin. if something is stuck to the FEP, a gentle push from underneath should release it.

these are sacrificial parts, to prevent the edge of the roof, and bottom of the walls from warping.

One of the first pieces I drew and printed was the AA16, wood framed brake wagon. This is the second attempt as the first had too many errors. Printed in the translucent green makes it hard to see the detail, and it took more than a dozen prints, with small detail changes before I was happy with it.

I based the single brake block wagon, on the picture from, a history of GWR goods wagons Vol1. Scanned image attached. The axle tie rods waviness is caused by a slight horizontal warping of the wagon, as they were tight originally, But for future 6 wheelers I will be going with etched w-irons, as my experiments with a floating centre axle have not work so far.

Thread started as per your suggestion. Thanks

I have been drawing and printing, my design now for a year or so and, for my planned layout of the Falmouth branch, set in the year 1908. I have chosen the period and location, because of two requirements, I wanted a Brunel viaduct or two, and wanted to model the Edwardian period, with a strong tie to real locations. After many years away form the hobby, I realised most of what was required for the period and location was not available from current suppliers, so decided it was either scratch build, or draw them in Fusion 360, and then 3d print them. The attached image is a small sample of what I have done up to the present day. Prints are from the Anycubic mono SE or the recently acquired Mono X, which gives me the ability to print bogie coaches up to 54ft.

I have looked at the MJT 6w set up, and I see they have been retooled, with some useful updates, I will give them a try. Just read the new instructions, and according to the radius chart solebar spacing won't be a problem.

I should probably start my own thread, with the S6 I have been experimenting with a floating centre axle, but have issues with geting enough sideways movement, it works for a radius of 4'6" !. I have thought of just using the cleminson, but I have quite a few 6 wheel coaches in the works, so it wood be nice to figure it out.

Blu is what they call a tough resin, it helps keep some flexibility and makes the final product less brittle, Tenacious is probably the better one to mix, so I will switch once the Blu has been used up.

Very nice, I also have the E39 Falmouth coupe ready the go, but this one I have done the chassis separately, so we will see which one works best. Fortunately the dreadnoughts didn't head down the Falmouth branch.