stevel

when I first started printing, that the raft would warp, well before the print dried after cleaning. So switched to printing without the raft, which had 2 benefits, 1: less warping and 2: easier to get off the build plate. But I still got some warping so did some research online and temperature was something which came up, quite often. I purchased a small 6 watt reptile heater, and placed it under the printer with the cardboard box over top to contain the heat, which helped, but did not eliminate it. I had tried heating the resin before printing but it was not practical. When I switched to Siraya Tech and started l turning on the printer a couple of hours before printing, was when I got the best results. Image 1 is Anycubic resin preheated and poured in then printed. Notice that once the printer warmed up the print is very clean, the Siraya resin is less likely to do this at the same temperatures. Image 2 is Siraya Tech mix with all the heating etc.

this is what they are designed for, now I get to try out my new Anycubic mono X. wish me luck.

I am using Lychee slicer, the free version, I use light supports without a raft, as the raft always adds warping to the model. the resin mix is 25% of the Blu, but once I run out of Blu I will switch to Tenacious. Siraya resins do need to be 25C or warmer, otherwise the first part of the model is distorted. Support pics give an idea of layout.

I have managed to find time to finish the design work and printed the first couple of prototypes. the most prototypical version was too flexible, so I added in bracing where it won't be seen. Printed on the Anycubic mono SE, with Siraya tech navy grey, with Blu for added cracking resistance.

the Templot site has a drawing of code 75 bullhead, somewhere on the forum.

this link may help https://www.railscot.co.uk/Dowlais_and_Merthyr_Joint_Line/index.php

It would be easy enough to print without the footboards, but I am basing these on a photo from the Falmouth branch, which shows them as a separate units.

Originally it was just side with footboards, to be glue to brass bogies, but since working on the CSB wagon chassis which is progressing well, I'm thinking of complete bogies. For the Edwardian period I will print them with the footboards.

seeing the layout on YT would be cool. I rather enjoy watching Mouldy Raspberry

I'm part way into doing these two bogie sizes. Trying to design them with CSB's, to give them a smooth ride, currently testing prototypes on a 9ft wagon to make sure it works. here is the current state of drawing.

The drawing from the back of the GW wagons plan book, shows them as being 1' 9-1/2" high, for a 20 ton later version brake van. This seems to match when scaling the drawing you have, of the locker in the cut away, bottom R/H side.

I have been looking for the same thing and came across this today, on the Didcot Railway centre. https://didcotrailwaycentre.org.uk/article.php/124/no-290-dean-4-wheel-composite-1st-2nd Stephen

Try adding a little resin to the Vat, just enough to cover the surface, and then expose it for 30 or more seconds. this will give you a solid that can be removed, with a light pressure too the underside of the FEP. there are some videos on YT showing this.

When you run your finger over the surface can you feel a raised surface. I had something very similar, was able to free it by pressing from the underside of the FEP, after exposure in the UV chamber, for a minute.

I have found them on Ultrascale's website, https://www.ultrascale.uk/eshop/products/cat015 not sure if they have stock though.

Shaun Have you watched these videos on YT,

"Expert" a wee drip under pressure.

there is an align function, but half the time they don't end up in the right position.

The easiest way I find to align the parts back as one, is to note the distance moved away for future reference, and then just return them the same distance, and join.

Jeff i thought of you the other night when I saw the Starlink satelite's streaking across the night sky, have they affected you in your photography efforts. Stephen

sounds familiar, fell asleep in a hedge once on the way back from a party.😆

I would agree with this, though I use the mix for everything, as I have had wagon bodies crack after a period of time while handling them. would highly recommend maintaining the resin at 25-30C for best results, as it has eliminated some warping issues I had at low temps. Like the idea of printing bogies etc in black, will give that a try.

Hi Neil some very clean prints you have there, can you share what the issue was for you failures, I am drawing and printing most of my rolling stock and have had some issues myself, which some considerable time to sort out.

Did the same thing with a Hillman minx in the 80's, best value car I had in the UK. Bought a car for a dollar when I first came to Canada and sold it for $100 three years later.

at least it's a little cooler in the early morning😉