stevel

Vogman on Youtube has design something similar and has videos on how to build this.

I just place it underneath the printer, and then cover it with the cardboard box the printer came in. most of them come with a self adhesive back to stick them on things. Once you start printing the printer stays plenty warm enough, so that the heat mat can be turned off if you wish. I like to print at about 30c so the box helps get the temperature up quicker.

I would recommend a 16 watt model try this link https://www.amazon.co.uk/s?k=reptile+heat+mats&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_6 Cheers

Enjoying watching this build, as I just received the HL pannier chassis kit, to go under a Saddle tank body I'm going to print. Going with the continuous spring beams, rather than the compensation method for the first time.

I would use brass bearings, to find the correct hole size, do a test print with holes increasing in .02 increments, so 2.02, 2.04 etc. This should show what size you need for the resin you use.

I heard you need a Vet for foot in mouth.

I'm building in P4, so the BGS plan would suit my needs, as I can more easily reprofile them. I can also print wheel centres for the available rims.

Who's driving wheels did you use for these, I would like to build some singles but not sure where i can get the right wheels.

Thank you for the review, I have been on the fence with these machines because of the flex that most of the less expensive machines, and want to use it for the same use as you, to make chassis etc, for my 3d printed rolling stock. Will be following with interest.

If you search the address on google, you may find a sale in the last 20 years, with some pictures of the different elevations, something I have done to figure out window locations etc.

I like the idea of year by year, or design periods, I think they would be easier to find the information for a particular loco for a particular year. Twould be easier than jumping from one book to another collating the required information. PS just bought a copy of the loco development book this summer, 👍👍.

I had another thought on this, also try raising the model higher with longer supports, if the mishape is in the same place then it is not the Z-axis, but if it moves down the model, it is.

Very nice project, a big difference from the things we normally print and build.

Dan I'm thinking this may be a sticky Z axis screw, try spreading the lubrication, on the screw and then run the print bed up and down about 100mm.

My suggestion would be to draw something you require, such as a wagon or platform furniture that can be drawn quickly, and print those first. You will still be learning the software, and the intricacies of the printing processes, and gaining experience. I was getting frustrated with learning Fusion 360 about 6 months into learning it's nuances, so drew this 1 ton shed crane one afternoon, the first picture is a failure, because of trying to print things too thin. The second is after some minor modifications. no clean up done too either onther than supports removed.

this is a test I designed for support limits, starting at 20 degrees from horizontal, and stepping up in 5 degree increments. 4mm x 3mm .75mm wall thickness. The results will be different depending on the resin and settings.

Simon You need to post a picture as an example, so we understand what you are talking about. Supports are generally part of the slicing process, not the design and drawing, and are critical to getting a good print. From my own experience, the resin used can make a huge difference, I have had prints I was never happy with until I switched to a higher quality resin.

I was wondering if they could be 3d printed, just need a couple of clear pictures of each profile and the size to draw them, in Fusion 360. how many do you need.

do you have a drawing for the columns.

For the 4mm it is a single print, just drop in the pin point bearings and it ready to go ish. I have been able to print 7mm wagon body on the Mono SE with a shallow angle but can print a complete kit, about 12 parts, on the Mono X in one go. I think you will find your kit of parts, will benefit from some sacrificial supports, as from experience I use them on nearly everything I print, it makes clean up so easy, and I get less distortion issues.

the earliest BRJ I have is 24, so before my collection started.

What was the reason for the large circular mount?, was it to cover the hole from the previous oil lamps. whilst on the subject of lamps, can anyone point me in the direction of, the dimensions of the top cover of the oil, and gas lamps, i can't seem to find it anywhere. Stephen

I would suggest watching some YT reviews, Joshua De Lisle gives an honest reviews.

You'll have the devil of a time ignoring it.