ROSSPOP

Hooooray!!! Done it....... Many thanks Martin PS Have purchased Sanilav and will be entering my shed after christmas and will no come out again until I have produced my first turd / template

Do you mean this???? Two different builds.......

aND AGAIN.............................................

.....now while we`re on the subject of Templot. I am a paid up member of Templot from way back but it is all on my ancient lap top with Vista (yuk) I have recently attempted to upload Templot 2 onto my latest laptop which is Windows 10 ( I have McAfee security) but all I keep getting is......... error Movefile failed; code 183 Cannot create a file that already exists If I ignore...... and carry on I get.... Create process failed ;code 2 cannot find specified file I have transferred templot 2 from the one laptop to this one via a CD and it is usable but does not give me internet connection for the tutorials etc any ideas ????? BUT PLEASE CONVERSE IN LAYMAN`S TERMS AS i AM COMPUTOR TALK BACKWORD !!

I needed to `hack` away at this solid resin roof to make a much finer corrugated roof edging I used a carborundum slitting disc in a bog standard mini drill.....it was very easy.....WEAR A MASK!!!!!! Gorilla superglue used as the adhesive. John

In this day an age you just need talk to Google.....`How to wire up a model railway`........ Mr B Lambert et al, will tell you how...... simples........

............... and in my experience there are two devices railway modellers don`t like cleaning........ trackwork and airbrushes !!

............................................. DCC Rules ! .............................

hi again Paul, glad you got the `V` sorted.... I think C&L `boil in the bag` kits are great... i always shop via the internet as I`m an `old codger` ....don`t get out much.... past the `man cave` Expressmodels will have all that you need for `droppers`..... although I would chat to mates about any spare telephone multistrand cable.....those telephone extension kit thingies...... and use the wires within..... failing that Expressmodels have all that you need............ And try and disguise them......... John

If you clean/ flush through your airbrush as you go along it won`t clog.... an utrasonic cleaner won`t improve on poor technique. Most , if not all, problems mentioned on forums about airbrush use are down to FTF...Failure To Flush........ or........FTT ...Failure To Thin the paint effectively, particularly when acrylics are involved.

Hi Rich I see you use enamels....good , but I can`t read what airbrush you are using. Mine are Badger 200 and Badger Anthem and both are predominantly metal with Nylon seals. I also occasionally use an Aztec airbrush which is plastic / nylon. these are the best cleaners for airbrushes. I use a 50/50 mix. WEAR A MASK. Xylene alone is also an excellent enamel paint thinner and is quick drying. WEAR PROTECTIVE GLOVES. you always need to have a jar of the above mix to hand and spray through you airbrush between each colour change and IMMEDIATELY after you have finished. I get my cleaners off ebay.......... I get various cheap glass cooking dishes from Wilko`s.

True .... but study the cheaper ones and they are usually only single ply/mdf thickness and unless you put in extra layers yourself... they will warp also..... study the brickwork type and edges/corners/joins etc....... some are decidedly iffy.......... but if you don`t care............... it won`t matter. The expensive ones are double/triple thickness, have detailed corners and joins etc and are much more besides. I have found that a quality PVA glue works well to assemble them..... I have used excellent Halfords Primers before assembly. With Humbrol or Revell enamels to finish. John

Having built them all, it was time to test them and the trackwork which has been left `fallow` for a couple of years. All my locos have Digitrains sound files and the mooing is the Lemaco point motors I have used as my units are only 21/2 inches deep and they are the lowest in height I could think of.......

Youchoos Powercube 9 is a 1.3w. Zimo Dumbo`s are 2w John

It all depends on what you wish to achieve with decoders........... I think Nigel has done his home work........ ... so if you want...... quality in the following....... sound (up to 3W), motor performance, lights (leds or bulbs), smoke etc...... and can be interchangeable between 4mm and 7mm requirements using MODERN motors...... There is only one............. Zimo MX645........... ( although the CT Elektonik looks good too ) john

Hi Paul You have only to slide chairs on the pre- assembled crossing ` where there are no pre soldered obstructions` you then cut/splice the chairs and fix with Butanone to disguise the fact. I hope these explain what I mean.......... John

Could`nt fit my preferred choice of base reflex speakers in my latest 7mm loco kit build, so having been impressed with zimo sugarcubes in my 4mm stock, I chose a larger version produced by Youchoos. I only had space in the firebox and probably could have fitted two of these but I also had to find space for a stayalive capacitor. Unlike Zimo`s I had to solder the wires to the speaker. I`m pleased with the result.........

I often use PL-64 when `running in` Slaters plunger pickups on my chemically blackened wheels. I have also used it for years on Alan Gibson 4mm wheels to prevent rusting and to improve electrical performance which it definitely does. It won`t attack paint either. Excellent stuff I think. John

Nothing to be a`feared about Snowy............just remember the centre axle is sprung....... ....doubt if you`ll need to go this far......... John

I`m not usually a follower of O gauge RTR and prefer the finish of an etched kit......... rather than the plastic(moulding) lines and over thick footpate edges that are the common compromises on the so called cheaper mass produced locos. I am very very impressed with this Jinty and the Terrier that has come before for the quality of detail and finish. To me, they achieve the least plastic looking RTR available. A very well done to Dapol, i would say they are leaps ahead of similar priced competition.

My choice would be.......... Digitrains 3F sound with a Zimo MX645 decoder plus a speaker that will fit available space........ ....in a converted 4mm Bachmann....

Hi All, Mitro-mors is a waste of time as it has been weakened recently....... Without doubt ... the best and quickest stripper for this project is....................................... ....and at the same time you can pick up a cheapo glass dish to work with..... ....very rapid effect... rince with water and a stiffish brush...fininsh off with Wilko`s medium wire wool.....

If it were me......... I would leave the `bazooka` alone as it is absolutely fine as it is.....particularly if you are getting the `1930` version as you need plenty of room underneath it to add the `bazooka supports` clearly shown between the `roof vents/lights` I would use fuse wire (packet of)...you can still get it....just..... as you will never get cotton thread to do what needs to be done....... and it will look wrong......

GOLDINGS !!!! Born and lived just half a mile away off Tavistock Street.......... This shop started my Airfix aircraft and then railway modelling journey from 1961 - 1967 until O Levels kicked in !!! All thats left from an early road vehicle kit............................... Kept this kit from back then until I finally got round to building it 2005 !! Great school days in Bedford !!