ROSSPOP

This is a UK laser cut 7mm kit .....comprising of mdf and thick card........ I used Halfords Acrylic spray can primers. And then assembled with quality un-thinned PVA glue. Painted with enamel paints. Cheers John

Hi Allen I fully understand your decision between quality of life verses quantity.......that is, so long as you feel you have been suitably and properly informed about your choices. please bear in mind chemotherapy and radiotherapy can of course be used to treat and........ ..................................................cure..... These treatments are also used to check and slow down disease progression leading to ......................................................remission (non-curative) but..... they can also be used to improve quality of life by reducing pain and breathlessness by shrinking tumours............palliation therefore, in NHS cancer treament centres up and down this country chemotherapy is not and never has been a cop-out because of money.... and age is not and never has been a barrier to these treatments unless you have other serious chronic illnesses that make it too dangerous, for you; such has been the improvement in the types of chemotherapy now available. Remember Allen....Smoking is not the biggest cause of common cancers......... Age is. Finally Please ensure you seek specialist advice on the most up-to-date symptom control and on going support (when the time is right) from your nearest Specialist Palliative care/Macmillan Centre. Cheers John

I never knew Jock67B but he often commented on my model making. I also knew from his comments that he had palliative chemotherapy. out of respect for his heroic and gentlemanly fight with cancer i will explain. There are no disinfectants that will sterilise scissors. to disinfect is not sufficiently safe for a professional Nurse this was researched way back in the 1980`s when super-bugs arrived on the medical/surgical scene. it is actually possible to grow bugs in disinfectant. boiling scissors for 3 minutes will sterilise and in the 1980`s as a District Nurse I had an Autoclave at home to do just that ( putting my children at risk by bringing nasty organisms into my own home) Hospitals of course had CSSD departments. Disposable guaranteed sterile scissors for nurses at home and in hospital is the safest professional way. Chemotherapy treatment is potentially dangerous in itself because it cen seriously lower your bodies defence mechanism (immunosuppression) so, exposure to sources of infection can kill. WARNING: if any up-to-date professional nurse approaches you having produced scissors from his or her pocket.....report them to the NMC. Cheers John

......... and all the above has been brought about through the need for improved infection control between outside and inside hospital .................... After all you would`nt want to die from a hospital aquired super-bug would you ?? John SRN.RGN (Bsc nursing palliative care), DN, INP (retired)

This Train don`t stop here anymore..... Elton John. Nuff said........

Thanks for your kind comments Peter. we all come into the Great Hall of O gauge through different doors but we all sit at the same table. just make sure you enjoy what your doing . And ask for advice if you need it...... plus post some pics of what your up to... Regards John

Hi Peter I have done the same as yourself and have been retired since 2013. I started with O Gauge GWR RTR way back in 2008 and it gives me many hours of pleasure. Here is a taster to get you going................ Regards John

Total Twaddle.................

Hi I have used `suitcase` connectors exclusively on my recent O Gauge layout with total success. DO NOT OVERLOAD THE CONNECTORS WITH MULTIPLE DROPPER WIRES YOU WILL REGRET BIG TIME. ONE DROPPER WIRE PER CONNECTOR Regards John PS.... so that`s a NO then......

no no.... Jehovah`s Witnesses.......

https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/subcat/RailMatch%20Paint%20-%20Enamel These have always supplied the full range...... Ps to all youngsters...... If you Google Railmatch Paints....... guess what??? you got it........

Ooops !!! https://www.clostermann.co.uk/aboutus.asp John

I agree with John above re Phoenix / precision which is top quality for etching into brass etc The problem with most aerosols is the innability to control paint flow for getting into those nooks and crannies of a model without flooding and burying the detail. .....................................however................................. For a few pennies more I can recommend.......... Clostermans black or grey etch primer Superb paint flow if used gently for those carefully made kits .....And no need to paint your chassis black twice......... https://www.clostermann.co.uk/aboutus.asp John

Having completed my 1970`s 7mm kit of a L&Y Pug 0-4-0 loco I have hard wired in a Zimo MX645 decoder.

https://eileensemporium.com/images/com_hikashop/upload/headband.jpg I can recommend Eileen`s Emp..... version at £20 plus P&p i`ve tried the Lloyds spectacle version but they add extra weight on my specs and slip down/ dig in to my `snitch` on hot sweaty days....... John

I could never afford any 7mm model railway kits back in the 1980`s and I certainly had`nt aquired the knowledge and skills required to make a successfull build then anyway. I did`nt earn enough filthy lucre then either. I`m pretty sure these RJH coach kits were available then from Bournemouth Model Centre at the Christchurch end of Holdenhurst Road; a long road that also had Bournemouth Book and Model Centre at the nearer Bournemouth end....... happy days I finally snapped this two coach set at a reasonable price off ebay in 2012 , eight months prior to retirement !!! Also.... my motto remains `why buy RTR when a decent metal kit is available` and I also need to crack on with building coach kits rather than my addiction to locos. I like what comes in these kits. The pre-rolled brass coach sides are from quite thick material and the most problematic area for me was going to be shaping the recessed guards door sections supplied as a flat etch. So I tackled these first and finished of with model filler. Next was the recessed door handle parts. I upgraded the door hinges with parts from CPL etchings which fitted well into the kits pre-etched hinge slots. Overall the kits are composite white metal and brass parts with pre-shaped tin roof section and a `hardboard` flooring which can be made removable. The solebars and underframe can also be made as a seperate unit and is attached along with the hardboard flooring to the assembled body with nuts and bolts on the whitemetal coach ends. It does , of course require, care with a combination of `proper` solder and quality low melt versions together with their relevent fluxes. Although the solebars are also pre shaped they too need carefull soldering to the whitmetal bufferbeams at each end, they also have pre-etched riviting on their reverse sides. The truss rods are pre- etched in the flat and require folding to shape. Far too troublesome for me, so I replaced with brass angle strips. But I did manage to fold up the centre sections and framing. I`m quite pleased with the upgrade. now on to the second coach.........

Hi My favourite Airfix wagon kit........................ These might be of help Cheers John

NO SOUND OR SMOKING This is the work of Steven Baldock

This is a very cost effective sound system some of you might have/ are considering.............

One should`nt judge todays quality sound decoders and sound files on DCC sound affectionados at exhibitions who hav`nt the foggiest on how a steam loco operates in reality. Also, many have little experience in how to adjust decoder CV`s to fine tune or match the sound to the movement of the loco drivers or reduce the volume There is nothing more satisfying than building / painting a kit of your choice and bringing it `to life` with quality DCC sound files.... but like everything else in railway modelling , you have to do your homework...... this is where the internet (forums) and Youtube are such innovative creations......... Sound is particularly effective in O gauge ( bigger speakers ) but 00/H0 decoders mainly...... ...of course being O gauge the wheel flange squeals are real....

Bill Hooks ! They are the very best for O Gauge, especially the MX645. Just ordered one for my 57xx kit build in case there's a rush ..... !

Yes that`s how I would describe it........... surging or lurching when there is usually a mismatch between the motors responce to what the controller is doing..... ie between a coreless motor and a controller with a modicum of feedback. Often the motor is somewhat noisy in performance. so using the right kind of controller (DC) or a better quality decoder ( with motor control ) will help improve performance. In both 4mm and 7mm I have always used Zimo decoders that usually automatically adjust to optimum motor control but when using Maxon coreless motors I often need to tweak several CV`s to elliminate surging. I also had to tweak CV`s on Bachmann 3pole motors. John

Hi I use Badger airbrushes (mostly metal parts and nylon seals) and an Aztec airbrush (mostly nylon with a few metal parts.) I use a 50/50 mix of these , purchased from ebay, and are a lot cheaper than the rattle can versions. If you use enamel paints then xylene is an excellent quick drying thinner......

Now come on Bertie dog.......... flywheels fitted to modern motors is sooooo 1960`s. The only usefull thing about a flywheel is to help maintain your lathe skills..... They have been outmoded by the advent of decent modern motors matched to decent controllers since the 1970`s........ I`m no longer a 4mm modeller but if I was I would certainly buy the Dapol AEC Railcar and put some midnight oil into upgrading the interior. But as for chewing up a perfectly adequate chassis ( according to other forums comments about performance) it aint required if you have a decent controller and are not still using an H&M Clipper. non of the following is 4mmm....... ..... but even with a basic chassis plus quality motor ( Sagami)........ If you have a quality anologue controller......... you don`t need a flywheel..............

..... I know its all your model(s) etc.... but why waste time with hiding the motor `lump` when there are more glaring details to contemplate......... 1. fitting roller blinds to the windows for as built and into the 1930`s 2. fitting curtains to the windows after this time. 3. lowering the tops of the seat backs to help disguise that the seating over the motors were higher. 4 fitting what looks like `knee boards` against the windows/seats over the engines. 5 and then add passengers..... Surely you won`t notice the motor lump then......... John