ROSSPOP

Like many lifelong railway modellers I`ve come through the ranks with painting models starting with brushes, then those very basic airguns attached to propellent cans stood in buckets of hot water to keep the pressure up and then finally to a proper grown up quality airbrush and separate compressors with and without storage tanks. I`m not a professional modeller/painter but consider myself a competent practitioner. There are the usual video`s on loco and stock builds but not that many on live and raw, warts and all railway modelling airbrushing adventures. So.... I`ve started one. I`ve not long retired and decided to buy a couple of compressors to complete all my loco, coach and rolling stock projects..as well as track and building work. I`ve been a fan of Badger products for the past 35years but added a similar AS18 unit to my Badger BA1000 compressor. Niether have air storage tanks, but I dont think you really need them for amateur work......... Please feel free to comment constructively and even add your own video`s Here goes........................................... So, having warmed the shed with a small electric blower I have continued with the first colour spray........ ...... and then arrived at a satisfying end to the first session..............

Yes, If I was a `professional` and modelled for a living/business I would invest in a large extra tanked all singing and dancing mega bucks compressor. But for a first time entry level compressor there are no real advantages or disadvantages having the extra tank it`s just down to personal preference and cost. The tankless version will still produce quality results dependant on your skill level. ( in fact it does have a small reservoir of air which will cope admirably for the projects we undertake in 4 and 7mm modelling and stops running as soon as you release the trigger.) A more important choice is to have the moisture trap and pressure gauge.

Although I have been a life long user of Badger airbrushes..... I would like to commend to this discussion a seldom mentioned and excellent airbrush product.... The Aztec A 470 It comes with all that you need to spray with enamels and acrylics The only parts that come in contact with paint are the quick exchange spray nozzles..... ( THESE ARE NOT FOR YOU MODELLERS THAT CANNOT COPE WITH CLEANING YOUR AIRBRUSH ) But they are impervious to strong solvent cleaners and are easy to flush through and soak with proper cleaners.................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. The airbrush itself can be switched from single action to dual action and is both siphon feed and gravity feed ( for left and right loading) I use mine for weathering projects whereby I can use the various sized gravity feed cups with different colours quickly. It comes with all you need to attach to your compressor.

you do need an etch primer for nickel silver chassis if, that is, you want the chassis to stay painted and resist the effects of drifting lubrication overtime. Clostermann grey or black every time.......

Hi Peter, The Deluxe Hornblocks are supplied by....... http://www.hobbyholidays.co.uk Their Standard Hornblocks are just as excellent.... Both will perform well on your WD. I`ve got the Deluxe fitted on my still unfinished Castle class Kind regards John

The time has come to add figures to my loco stock............................................................................................ ......................................decided to mainline with the excellent Modelu products....but some are `sticky to the touch` I tend to prefer enamels but am prepared to change but what do you all think about what to clean them with prior to priming ???? Cheers John

You must only exaggerate Jeff................................................. ..........when you`ve got a back up plan............

Soldering, soldering irons, fluxes and solders........... I saves me pennies/pension and keep things simples...................................... Carrs products... particularly the 100deg low melt solder.........follow the instructions.... Antex irons......... and a blow lamp Best tool ever...... The you can solder all that you need......... Cheers John

............ no flux......... ............ with flux ...... ........... simples...........

Hi The 18/2 is as good as the Badger BA1000 and both the same price.... both quiet and as I keep saying.... as they are fitted with a moisture trap and pressure gauge you don`t necessarily need a n extra tank as THERE ARE NO PULSATING AIRWAVES.TO WORRY ABOUT because the trap and long airhose eliminates them........ and with a decent airbrush will give excellent performance. Depending on the airbrush you choose you may need an airbrush hose attachment thread for the 18-2 particularly with Badger airbrushes which I have used for the past 35 years.....brilliant products !! Cheers John

Hi Don`t buy dirt cheap stuff. You won`t go wrong with Badger products ...have been using my series 200 single action for 35 years but the above is an Anthem dual action 155 and is currently available on Amazon at £85 free postage https://www.amazon.co.uk/Badger-Airbrush-155CS-BA155CS-Set/dp/B000VYWM5Q/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1534859653&sr=8-6&keywords=badger+155+anthem Also on Amazon is a Badger Ba 1000 compressor AT £ 85 ( If a compressor has a water trap and pressure guage you don`t need one with a storage tank as THERE WILL BE NO PULSATING AIR FLOW. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Badger-BA1000-Airbrush-Compressor/dp/B0076ZLGFK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534859985&sr=8-1&keywords=badger+ba1000 What can be achieved with a little practice........ Cheers Johnny Rosspop

Nah !!! THE definitive version already exists, but you do need to build it............. Cheers

1. Make a plan. 2. Buy a shed. 3. Make the stock 4. Build the track. 5. Make the buildings. 6. Build the baseboards. 7. Lay the track. 8. Wire it up. 9. Finish the electrics 10. Stop for lunch.

My vote is that they did...... ...and Dapol think so too.....

You are perhaps a little behind with the news............. https://mm1models.co.uk/index.php?route=common/home Theyare on the way back hopefully............................................ John

Hi Stuart, Welcome to the Forum Some nice modelling you have there. Do keep posting your progress. John

Having built all my GWR loco kits and won`t be doing anymore ever, it`s time to move over and build some coaches. I have got a token RTR GWR auto-coach from the Lionheart stable but my preference has always been to build kits as these will have my own build compromises rather than the manufacturers. Anyway, I was lucky enough to snap this Cavalier B set on ebay back in 2012 and made an initial assessment of what was needed back then. Serious construction then started last November so as to be some alternative project during the building of my last two loco kits. Cavalier kits were the biz back in 1985 and were way too expensive for me back then. you get quite a bit for your monies...................................... Nice pre-formed and VERY thick brass coach sides.....tin plated pre-shaped roof.... fold-up etched truss framework and then all white metal underframe detailing, coach ends and bogie kits plus wheels. Having very thick gauge brass draws a lot of heat from a soldering iron and I needed every watt from my 80W Antex iron. The kit represents a GWR 60` Bow-ended B set with recessed door handles and guards door. Folding up the recessed door etches was hard going...... The recessed door handles was much easier going........ .......and I finished the recessed guards door with Milliput Filler. CPL Models produce some very juicy 7mm coach detailing products and I used their fold up door hinges and door stops to upgrade the kit as I went along. Drilling small holes in the thick coach sides caused a lot of cheap drill casualties !!! The next challenge was to be soldering white metal cast ends in place. For this I used Carrs 100deg low melt solder ( Carrs yellow label flux is essential) which needs no pre-tinning of the brass sides. I don`t possess a temperature controlled iron so in true cheap-skate style I merely switch off my 80watt iron for 1.5mins and she`s then ready for 4mins of whitemetal soldering !!!!!...... but like a full Porta Loo on a camp site you need to be in and out quick !!!! Then solder on the tin -plate roof and brass rain strip and trim everything up. The bottom edges of the coach sides have a pre-folded recess to take the pre cut `hard board` flooring. There are also pre-folded brass channel chassis frames and white metal frame ends. This assembly bolts on to the bottom of the coach end castings . The kit has etched thick brass fold up angle irons for the underframe trusses..... impossible to fold without making a `pigs ear` for me anyway, so I replaced with brass angle strips....much easier and better looking in the long run... ....and it`s not a difficult job to complete. I did use the etched centre truss support brackets supplied. The cast whitemetal bogie kits are not compensated and go together very well.... no brake blocks but looks the biz.. Next I added further detailing parts from CPL Models plus some scratch handrails of my own to supe rdetail the outer coach ends... The kits have a simple and ingenious way of springing the buffers which are cast lostwax offerings These kits have a good supply of chassis components which need a minimum of cleaning up ready for assembly.... I have completed both coach underframes this week....a couple of evenings work....most satisfying..... .... note the use of PCB strips for the running boards..... So far .... so good......... This week has seen the final amount of detailing prior to etch priming.........

Avery nice job indeed Ian....well done.. Make sure you put some real coal in the back and some fire irons on top of the left hand tank... Cheers John

Hi again Ian, not into 4mm now, but I researched mine and could`nt find much info other than Bob Essery`s book. So you will need a bit of Guessometry..... Cheers John

Hi There, Well, when it comes to controllers I`ve studied and tried many to search for the finest of loco control......... Your Gaugemaster is/was one of my favourites ( but not on coreless) because it`s feedback provision gives better fine control with the older Japanese open frame type motors (DS10, KTM etc) Strangely enough it will control Bachmann and Hornby three and five pole motors but at a price ( some motors will be noisier than others but all will become HOT ). You get differing performances with each and every motor which I guess is down to the quality of RTR manufacturing tolerances. Unfortunately, you dont get fine control with pure DC controllers ( I`m not an electrician so cant tell you why, and unfortunately in my opinion the very best 12volt controllers are no longer made............ But you can be patient and snap them up on EBAY.............. MY ALL TIME FAVOURITE made in the 1970`s and come up regularly on ebay..... will not over heat motors and has enertia control so you drive your loco just like a real steam regulator MY OTHER ALL TIME FAVOURITES....... ECM compspeed ( which can be fine tuned to individual motors) and ECM Rambler . OF COURSE NOWADAYS YOU CAN GET ALL THIS PERFECTION WITH ......... ZIMO DECODERS AND AN NCE CONTROLLER !!.................................................... who said that ? Johnny Rosspop

Hi I sometimes get this problem with the higher wattage irons ( I use Antex 80watt and 40watt) for my 7mm kit builds. I`ve got a Weller 120watt which I very rarely use preferring a flame to do the hotter stuff. Don`t leave your higher wattage iron powered up for long periods unused it will wreck the tips over time. Get yourself a lead free tip cleaner ( which will also tin your tips) and use it either just as your iron is heating up or last thing when your tip is cooling down on a regular basis. Cheers John

Yep ! I`ve got a basic NCE set up which I used in my 4mm days and now used in 7mm. I can run two to three locos at the same time as I use modern electric motors. I shall boost it up to 5amps when I run things outside.... John

I discovered in my twenties ( now aiming towards seventy) that either beam compensation ( which I was crap at doing) or sprung hornblocks in 4mm....plus weight over driving axles always gave the very best electrical contact and scale performance...... especially in the humble 0-4-0 loco. It is fiddly and adds an extra day on the construction time, but will always save on all this back tracking and piddling around trying to get a fixed axle chassis to run impeccably. It all seemed so easy back then.... I specialised in using Keen-Maygib sprung hornblocks every time....... .....and it transfers over well to 7mm work where it will also improve realistic and reliable performance especially with DCC sound ........of course Ian.... you could sell all your 4mm stuff and move over to 7mm where all your excellent soldering will be so much easier.............. and the suspension is all thought out for you...... ... but your IP will be an earlier example......... John

Hi Again Ian, Assuming that you hav`nt fitted any axle springing, have you checked that you hav`nt got a slightly twisted chassis( sometimes made worse when attaching to the body) I`m sure you have checked the chassis length ways by eye to make sure the axles are all aligned.... John

I`m in a similar situation as yourself............... Penny is only 6years (which is middle age for a dachsund) having just got stabilised as an insulin dependent dog, she has now been diagnosed with inoperable bladder cancer and has just a few months to go. When the time comes and she is unable to eat , drink and have enough energy to cope with her doggy daily activities i will not hesitate to have her gently put to sleep. animals have a different pain threshold to us human beans. ( I have regular visits from a male fox with one back leg that just gets dragged around ...obviously broken some time back)..... but he is thriving....) you will know when the time is right.................... no need to pre-empt it Regards. john